E's Surf Report

Wow, first post. SWEET.

That is the best pic i've seen on here the whole year, E! I'm definitely saving that one and sending it home.

i thought the waves would for sure be good this morning woe is me...woooooe. man body surfing those waves looks so fun..wooooe...

yeah malibu!

Then again, there's always bodysurfing ...

woe is right, woooooe...Paddle out, try to find something, anything..current whips us south past the spot we were aiming for. Stand up, but then get snared in "reverse rip "- you know where I'm talking about, Dennis. Walk 2 blocks back north to starting point. Say 'hi' to friends w/dogs. Paddle for a long time, give up when I think we're back at Dennis' spot. No, we have drifted north. Friends laughing their asses off. Go back in, now whipping south 2 blocks...once again into the Dennis zone. On the shore, jokingly rip off hood, yell "AGH!", and spike it in the sand like a football.

Agh!

nice one 'bait!

did you catch any?

Welcome to my nightmare SS :^O Why is it that OB can be so hard to get out and at the same time be so hard to get back in? I've had times when the paddle in took longer than the paddle out.

Hey e...not really, maybe sorta, ..it was 99% paddling for ? or sitting around trying to find a ride/peak and never ever being in the right spo.! Pretty rideables always 15-20 ft away of course. Ridiculously complicated paddle considering the non size. I could hear the beach laughing at me when I left. Oh well!

s.s. - wanna try again tomorrow? i've got a cold/sore throat but i think i'm going anyway.

I remember getting stuck in the "hole" at the beach one fall day. I couldn't get back in! It was pretty disconcerting. I was exhausted from a day of paddling, and now I'm getting sucked back out, but only to the impact zone. So I tried again to take a white water wave all the way in. Problem was, it would deposit me right back where I started, neither close to shore, nor in a place with no waves breaking. And I wasn't in the mood to paddle parallel to shore like you're supposed to. It would have meant tons of sideways duckdiving. I just wanted to get back in!

OB throws some really good tests at you...

That diagram looks like something you'd see in sex ed. Good penetration, nonetheless.

Wow, I wonder where the second to the last pic is from. That's an incredible wave.

I loved the dog/dolphin pic.

Waves weren't good? A buddy of mine and I are going out there today to bodysurf. It sounds pretty bad.

No good for me either this morning. Lots of paddling, low wave count. Tired now. Must eat food......

surfseeker7 - There must be vortices created in the area of the neck, breakers, and feeders that are difficult to escape from. I've had several experiences that felt like being on a horizontal ferris wheel in the water.

lol C&C.

viva Brazil!!!

Those vortices are my biggest annoyance and achilles heel. I've also watched people paddling out of those necks and get sucked backwards back in. Opposite problem today. If only the rips would cooperate with the surfing needs of the moment. Gosh darn!

Paddle no more- just strap yourself to one of these!
http://www.big-boys.com/articles/backpackjets1.html

Whoa! Breakdance badass
http://www.big-boys.com/articles/bigstrength.html

Human Spiderman
http://www.big-boys.com/articles/amazingjumper.html

wow!! that spiderman guy is insane.

I know that yesterday I promised not to get publicly psyched about conditions anymore. But since the lineup was completely empty this morning at a random beach somewhere in California I�ll let out a little woot woot and just linguistically bask in the afterglow of the high-performance succulence on offer. Bigger and burlier than yesterday. Angry, spitting turbo barrels. My all-time favorite conditions. Not huge.. but barrelling and rifling on inside bars. Ledging, suckout drops. Waves that fucking whip your ass down the line like you�re being hurled out the end of a jai-alai cesta at mach googleplex. FAST!!! Adrenaline drops. I managed a few rides and a few drops that are instilling me with this feeling of comforted relaxation and uplifting after-the-fact-excitement. Just a warmth and exhilaration in the pit of my stomach. One ride right in front of Lerm I kind-of faded deep into the building wall on my takeoff and then pounced smoothly to my feet with balance (something that doesn't happen all the time!). I got slingshot down the face and then came off the bottom with so much speed that my eyeballs were sucked back against my brain and my cheeks were all flapping in the wind. I pumped and set up my line for a few moments and then rode up to the lip and moderately clicked off the top� no time for laying a rail because this wave was not waiting for that type-of shit.. i re-entered and then just started pumping like a rabid hyena and then flew up to the lip again and kinda chinked a nice divot off the chunky thing� then an air-droppy re-entry and more down-the line speed channeling.. Going so fast. Damn! Seriously one of my best rides of all time. Fucking fast as all hell. Not that I surfed it that great.. just that the wave expressed such concentrated power and force. To spend a few seconds in the pocket of all that significance, just to stand there and be moved along by that serendipitous conglomeration of natural occurrences felt amazing. Blah!! Then later in the sesh the waves were really walling up and bigger sets were coming through.. Some reaching overhead++. I had my mojo working for once and I dropped a few bombs (for me!) that will stick in my mind all week as I chill in Philly, far away from the wonderful Pacific Ocean. To balance all this claiming out let it also be known that i got farking crunched 3 times trying to take-off deep into barrelling/maybe-closeout waves. One wipeout the lip came down on my head and i got pummelled chin first into my board. Butt.. on one of the good ones I just remember stroking in and seeing the large wall divot out from underneath, scooping and hollowing, gulping and pitching. Looking down the line into what is *almost* a closeout section.. but lining up just enough to allow the crafty surfer to maniacally sprint toward freedom. I just threw myself over the ledge, hugged tight along the wall, and accelerated down and to the right, staying low and riding my inside edge. Not even pumping but just riding the raw natural force of the wave. No need for pumping. I remember the view of the overhead, mega-glassy wall encompass the entire right side of my field of vision. Just a vertical wall of liquid beauty. That feeling of acceleration and drive. No sound. No memory. Only nowness. All senses fully attuned to the current moment. Rushing and reacting. Flying from danger while self-expressing down the line. I love it. surfing friggin rules!

macho man randy savage!!

i've seen those words before. hopefully within the next month we'll see those same conditions! this IS rocktober, right!?

You're supposta ride the wave to the beach hop off the board when you reach the sand.
Is Ala Moana a right?
How much hotter is the sun over here on Oahu then say a place like Rincon Beach?
Is it cold and foggy there - are there waves?
3-4-5 and rising. Trades light to moderate grooming the waves to utter perfection.
Eat your hearts out...

That parkour/freerunner vid is absolutely fucking rad.

Gawd damn, Lame Ass, are you for real?

I hadn't skated in 2 weeks. Buried with moving my family and work. I show up at Sunnyvale the other night. Pad up. Cruise the deck a couple times and go off into a corner to do a little stretching/yoga routine my 42yr old body demands before a session.

This grom rolls by: "Do you need those pads to do those stretches".....hahahaha

Next pass: "Hey nice helmet" hahahaha (i wear my cycling helmet cause it flows air and i still have hair so it gets too hot with a standard skate helmet)

Next pass: "Dude are you even going to skate, how OLD ARE YOU?"

"42, how old are you?"

"14."

"I have a 14yr old daughter, DOES YOUR DAD SKATE?"

"No"

"Too bad"

"Where's your daughter?"

"Volleyball practice and to get to her you have to pass me."

"OH"

Now the little smart ass goes his way and I roll in and start flowing. The grom manages to snake me a few times. So I head to the big bowl and wait in rotation.

Drop in, carve, carve, carve, wheeler, a little grind, carve.......

"Hey how long have you been skating?"

"hmmmm.........35yrs I guess."

"Your so old."

"THANKS"

I've taken enough shit in my life to know this grom is having a lot of fun trying to fuck with me. Now he drops into the bowl, tight trucks, tiny wheels, we've seen this many times no speed.

"Hey can I try your board."

"Sure, my trucks are pretty loose and my wheels are going to be a lot faster."

"IF YOU CAN RIDE IT I CAN RIDE IT."

"Well then, here you go."

He rolls in wobbles in the flat, stacks right into the wall.

OUCH - as he scrapes the elbow up well.

"Dude I don't know how you old guys can ride with your trucks so loose."

"Old and bold, my little bro, old and bold" Sorry bout the elbow, don't forget to wash that cut out when you get home."

The only thing I don't like about these public skateparks is that there is no hiding a good old fashioned grom hazing with all these parents around. If that shit had happened on the beach, my freinds and I would have buried the kid up to his neck in sand, and found every dog we could to give the little guy a good lick and sniff.......As it was done to me back in my grom days.

awesome 3-5...great work

cool story 3to5!

nice one 3to5.

it's always rad to see fathers still living the lifestyle they love. someday i'll be having kids and hope to still be on top on my game. so 3t05, any advice on an appropriate age to start making the babies? I'm still far from ready, but already getting the pressure from the wife...

Way to represent 3-5!

This one's for you!

Rodney Mullen ripping!
http://www.vidiLife.com/reloc.cfm?cryp=010-7CFD0C64-EC41-45CF-95F8-D

3TO5 FOR PRESIDENT!!!

actually...3TO5 FOR HEAD OF THE SCHOOLBOARD (or whatever that title would be)

awesome vids today artifact!

rodney mullen holy shit!!

there's a black dude who skates in the park alot and does a ton of those insane freestyle skate tricks. he has to be a pro. no rail slides or anything. things like nollie kick-flips where he lands balanced on the side of his board. anyone know who he is?

I got stuck in a hole/trench on a smallish day last week and could not progress beyond the shore break. It was so humbling. I'm used to that happening on DOH days but its happening more and more on small days. perhaps I'm getting too old for this stuff.....

thanks peeps.

rza, the sooner you get it started the sooner you'll be on the other side of the demanding early years. of course being a parent is always demanding. but now my daughter is very self sufficent. i can grab a morning surf or skate come back late morning and she's doing her thing.

no matter what you will miss epic days due to kid sports, parties etc. parenting is a trip and then some but totally rewarding if you really want it.

thanks for the sage advice 3to5.

having that first kid sometimes seems like dropping into a massive bomb at ob: it's scary stuff, but once you commit, the only option is pulling it off!

Great reading today especially that skate story.

Encintas, 1973

The Rules
Dry starts
6-man, 15 minute heats
Competitors judged on: maneuvers, height of wave, ride length...whatever

EAch competitor is issued a colored jersey and most importantly, a bucket of beer. More precisely, a glassing factory standard, 82 oz., production-sized, cardboard resin bucket full of beer.

The more he drank, the better he surfed man. Donald Takayama was the kinng, a five-time winner. The trophieswere all homemade and solicited donations from local surf factories, trophy bases, surfboard parrts, rude, crude adn funny. The "Leo Driscol Memorial Trophy" was this creation from what Leo had left behind after he stormed out of his job at Hansen's-his resin encrusted shoes and the final paycheck he'd ripped up and thrown on the floor. The Stone Steps Invitational is what it was called, and it was a blast!

"if surfing makes you angry you're not doing it right."

So how much do they charge the dogs for the Dolphin Experience?