E's Surf Report

One other kid comment: If your teenage kids think you, you're either doing something very right or very wrong.

Man, fun waves last night. Such a pleasure to out in glassy evening surf. Caught several closouts but also got some nice fast glassy peelers--both lefts and rights. Once again, good crowd in the water all sharing.

I sold my 6'8 Flyer last night so I'm on the prowl for a new board. I have mixed feelings. Should I get an 8'6 gun or a 6'3 thruster? I have a 6'8 semi, 7'6 semi and a 9' longboard/gun kinda hybrid thing. I'm leaning toward the 6'3. I just can't buy both unfortunately, even though the need is there.

I meant to say If your kid thinks you're cool...

Beaut morning...crisp cool air rapidly heated by the sun which blinded me off on several rights. A few attacks on the lip, a few drops, and a few rides on Loon's RFS board.

The new rotating rail fin boards come off the bottom and want to attack the lip, immediately. Then you pump a few times down the line and attack again. The RFS singles come off the bottom powerfully also, but project down the line, leading to smooth rounded cutbacks. Switching between the two of them was a fun contrast.

Kinda crowded but seemed like only about 5 or 6 guys could make the more critical drops (which were not all that critical today).

My 8'6" gun was one of my all-time favorite boards ever at OB. Eventually I felt I wanted something a few inches shorter, but man it felt good and controlled in some really uncontrolled situations.

Hey E,

Neal does it all, man: he sponges, surfs, and bodysurfs too. He's also getting up there in age and has been around (he's in his 40's), and also a proud father, so he fits well with all these posts about kids and parenting.

Went bodysurfing yesterday out in SF with a buddy of mine who is expecting his first born any day now. I hope he is able to move back here someday from Chicago and teach his baby girl how to body surf. Not a lot of bodysurfers out there.

Man, is it me or is the water temps real low? I had my first ice cream cold headache yesterday after 10 minutes into the swim out to the lineup. After two hours, I couldn't feel my toes, my fingers couldn't close, and I couldn't talk straight. I need to start looking to trade in my 3/2.

That Bali wave is insane.

Lost my cell phone last week and it was nicely returned to me this morning after many attempts to meet up but things got in the way. So the girl is nice enough to come by my office and I'm extremely appreciative. I asked her if i could give her any money for her trouble, her response is: "Oh, hehehehe, I am not American, I don't want money."

Thought that was a little odd. Was it inappropriate for me offer her money?

OB has identity crisis. Check back in a few weeks.

Friend #1 earlier in 2005 with disposable camera, photo taken by yours truly somewhere around SF:

Blakestah - caught your post about Stretch, thanks. I was wondering if they did off-the-street work. Pretty nice to have that option and Ambrose's new set-up close by.

Hey MSG,

Where you a guitarist for UFO and the Scorpions in the late 70's early 80's? I dug the sound of your Flying Vee, nice controlled feedback, compared to my Birdland. Those solo albums of your were OK, but at that point Eddie Van Halen and Randy Rhoads had your game upped.

Or are you the food additive that I sprinkle on all my fresh game before cooking?

Yeah, I find that pretty tempting. Buy a coupla six packs, download the free APS3000, and design dream board. Agonize over the lines for weeks. Finalize it. Pick up blank at FH, drop it at Ambrose's machine and spend $45 for the blank and $35 for the APS runs.

Then, home. Finish the rails, rough the machine marks out. Down to Stretch for a $180 glass job.

Grand total of $260 for my own shape, and a pro glass job. It is definitely totally possible.

Of course, for not much more Tim Gras will make you an insane high performance thruster.

Last comment on the take your kid surfing thread. Don't let your kids use swim goggles all the time. They get addicted to them and you'll have a hard time getting the kids surfing without them. I've tried letting my girls wear the goggles on the board, but one good wave at the wrong time ripped the goggs off and sent her into a panic.

Blake,

Can Tim make an RRF (rotating rail fin) thruster? What's FH?

oops, left off the stah.

wind surfing, skiing, surfing

kite surfing, snowboarding, boogeyboarding

One takes skill...the other, just a little practice.

TSM- a mexican once found my phone and wouldn't give it to me unless I coughed up some cash (which I was already planning on doing). That was wierd. Kinda felt like paying a ransom.

Thats funny, the complete antithesis of the woman i met.

Caught a gazillion waves yesterday evening. Fun rides. Mellow paddles. Beautiful sunset. Gracias.

Hey Ted,

Damn, i'm not that old. I'm a guitarist, I guess you're one too. I've been meaning to jam out with people on here, but after getting back from a guitar festival in SLO a few weeks ago, i'm guitar'ed the eff out.

Geek,

Snowboarding, harder than skiing. Kite surfing, harder than wind surfing (from what i've been told), but, bodyboarding harder than surfing? Not in my book. Unless you are saying the exact opposite, then I think you're nuts. Surfing, well, surfing bigger waves, is harder than them all, by far, and bodysurfing is, in some respects, harder than that too. I think snowboarding, or skiing, would be as hard as surfing if you had to worry about bears constantly attacking you, you had to walk up the slope to the top trying to avoid mini avalanches along the way, and then when you start skiing back down, you had an avalanche chasing after you. Then it would be comparable.

I concur on last nights conditions. I'm no longer wooe'd out.

steve, Tim does really nice work. The rotating rail fin boards are really drop-in replacements on thruster shapes, so I don't really see any problem. They'll enhance a board the most if the board is designed to generate speed ie: lower rocker, tri-plane, wider tailed, thrusters. It has a still noticeable positive impact on thruster made for larger waves too but the rotating rail fins are really about generating and sustaining speed better, so the best would be a smaller wave thruster that is built for generating speed.

Anyone who can set any fin box with a router could install one. I gotta get the first production run done...

Anybody see that advert from Surfrider Foundation on Surfline? Surfrider is putting trash on billboards in SoCal saying, "Found on (beach name) Beach on 8/21/05". Pretty cool.

I always look for trash on the beach after a surf and drop it in the can along the bike path. Last night the beach was clean!

Couple more questions:
1) Where does Tim shape out of? One of the local shops?

2) When is that first production run going to be done?

Way too much free time today. Should have gone surfing instead.

Umm Skiing is way harder than Snowboarding. With practice you can do all of them, with skill you can rip. Many people with all the practice in the world will never rip at a world-class level (me included). I would say small- medium wave ripping is way more skillful than sacking up and making a big wave drop. Of course skill is involved in big waves especially the real chargers- but any determined, fit person can catch a big wave. Bodyboarding falls lower on the evol scale in my book (sorry bbr) You can ride waves off the Kmart shelf with one- and those crazy thick waves- again more a matter of nuts and desire than pure skill. Mike Stewart and a select few due posess true skills.

Nice morning out there! Here comes the fog and wind, again

Tim Gras
640-4727

He'll take a few day's to get back to you so call him more than once. It's just how it is.

He's more or less a garage shaper, but does excellent excellent excellent high performance boards. One of the Brazzo rippers had one of his boards, and just recently got two more. Just right for OB, even better than the shapers for the Brazilian pros from home (that don't know OB like Tim does).

I'm working on getting the boxes done in the next month.

I think the main reason surfing is harder than the other sideways sports is less repetition. Fickle beachbreaks, crowds and localization at points & reefs, and just crowds generally means its going to take a lot longer to practice a given move, the only limit on snow is the strength of your legs and the number of bruises you can tolerate.

my two cents is that surfing is way way way WAY more difficult to rip at than skiing or snowboarding. Learning how to read the waves, catch the waves, and take off at the right time on pitching waves takes a long long time to master. You can carve down a hill by the end of your first day snowboarding. It's EXTREMELY rare to carve a bottom-turn/top-turn combo on your first surf. Agree that bodyboarding is easier than stand-up.. but.. drop-knee and stand-up bodyboarding are farking tough. taking off on gnarly waves at shark island, wedge and such places are pretty cool bodyboard niches. also note that bodyboarders really openned teauhupoo to the surfers.

Yeah, that post makes no sense geek. imho.

the girl was being rude generalizing americans but nice in giving you back your phone, quite a conundrum. imho.

my 2 cents

it takes practice to have skill maybe i should have said..there both almost the same.

1 more cent

Gimmie Gimmie!!!!

Blue Angels are back in town.

"That's the sound of freedom"

- GWB

i have ridden a tinkler tail several times. dave kalama and i persauded mike to loan us his only surfboard prototype at the time. dave broke it, i fixed it and kept it for a few weeks. it was a fun diversion. i surfed some good waves on it. i loved bottom-turning on it, it rocketed out of the apexes. but at the time (yikes 18yrs ago) they where a bit heavy. he had a following in the windsurfing world, most notably dave's sail sponsor david ezzy. mike is a great man a bit of a mad kiwi scientist. many stony hydrodynamic theory chats and water hose experiments regarding fin foil concepts. good times.
thanks Steve for the flashback.

WASHINGTON - A great white shark named Nicole logged more than 12,000 miles swimming from Africa to Australia and back, the first proof of a link between the two continents' shark populations, researchers say.

A second report details the movement of dozens of salmon sharks from summer waters near Alaska to warmer winter quarters off Hawaii and Baja California.

"Sharks have home ranges that are at the scale of ocean basins," said researcher Barbara A. Block of Stanford University. She added that conservation management of sharks such as the white shark and salmon shark will require international cooperation.

Tracking a shark from Africa to Australia "is one of the most significant discoveries about white shark ecology and suggests we might have to rewrite the life history of this powerful fish," said Ramon Bonfil, lead author of that study.

Both reports appear in Friday's issue of the journal Science.

Kalama or 3to5?

go Nichole!

Blue Angels = "The Thunder of Freedom, the Roar of Democracy"

thanks everyone for paying your taxes so that they can pay their gas tab.

really appreciate the parent-child chatter - my wife is due with our first in 9 days!

this am was fun despite the excess water. nice to see ya bstah, thx for letting me testride the 6'1" - bit small for me & those mushy waves, but it held great on the one decent drop/bottom turn i made.

tip: don't hit your head on the bottom when diving off. did that 3 weeks ago, got burners down both arms - havn't had those since i was playing football. neck xrays were negative and the initial pain/tightness faded pretty quickly, but i am still stiff for side-to-side rotation, and i am also feeling compression pain when i get smacked on the head by waves - even small ones like today. back to the chiro soon...

Blakestah, good on you for the Tim Gras support.
Tim has been my friend and surf commrade for over 20 years... He's committed to the the sport, the beach, shaping and doing things his own way. If all that isn't enough, his boards go great.

dang loon, 9 days huh? how's she doing? my girl's due in 4 months and her stomach's already big. i can't imagine what it will be like when she's that close to her due date.

i'm going off for my last solo sojourn for probably a while next week. backpack, board, water filter. off i go! then it's down to the business of being and adult and parent, while still finding time to get in the water. can't wait til i can take the little guy down to baja. i know just the wave i'm gonna teach him on. LIFE!

i'm goofy.

I think the city actually pays for Fleet Week with the revenues coming from the added sales tax collected from visitors. Fleet Week is expected to attract about 1 million people to waterfront businesses, including Fisherman's Wharf.

Oh yeah, by the way, not dogging on any bodyboarders, since I like bodyboarding too. But, I must confess, surfing is a lot harder than bodyboarding -- but bodyboarding, to me, is a lot funner.

And I don't mind falling in snow, breaking bones. Bones heal. The punishment, the ordeal, is over quickly with you knowing you're not going to die. And if you do die, it's usually going to happen pretty quickly when you're skiing or snowboarding. Running out of air, muscles are burning from lactic acid, lungs are scorching, the throat is on fire, and you have a feeling that death is looming makes 10 seconds underwater seem like an eternity. And then you survive, and you come up, but you're not relieved... no, your senses are on full alert, because you know the punishment is just beginning. You remember the times you were naughty a week earlier, and you wonder if this is karma. You remember the times you felt pathetic, after you've done something wrong. You feel humbled, but not in a good way, more like in the way kids feel humbled after the big guy on school beats them up infront of everybody. All of these tangled mix of emotions come out of you when you're in the impact zone on a big farkin' hairy day, and the rip is pulling you out for more punishment. I think of what my mom and dad would feel, after they found out their only son drowned in big surf, and then I think this is so fuckin' pointless to be doing this. Then, eventually, you finally make it in... and you feel like you were just raped, but relieved, and you vow to never go out again. Then, one day you do, and you catch the I swear that was the ride of my life, and do it all over again. That's why to me, surfing, in bigger surf, riding waves, that is, is harder than pretty much any sport.

i use to have a gf named nicole, to get her to travel across the room would require more than a little temp discomfort

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2005/10/06/BAG3JF368L1.DTL

I dated a girl that worked in Seafood Shanty in Willow Grove, PA. I called her Jaws cuz she liked to bite me... Ouch! That was a looong time ago.

Yep I agree w/ you guys surfing is way harder than snowsports- but that is the act of catching waves and practice- skiing 1 run you can bust hundreds of turns - chairlift- repeat. Surfing probably would more equivalent if waves were way longer and in skiing you always had to walk back up the hill and then wait your turn to ride. Or maybe tow-surfing is a better comparison.

But I would argue that the real big mountain ski mountaineering lines that guys pull with tricks in the mix are hard to compete with in any sport in terms of skill and consequence. Far more people die and end up with severe injuries Skiing (especially ski mountaineering where mistakes are fatal) than even big-wave surfing. Then of course it just depends where you ride. Avalanches, rocks, cliffs, and trees can be very unforgiving things. (Waves, reef and sharks too)

MSG you might find being buried in an Avy a similarly terrifying experience and the consequences much scarier.

Randy Sexton

first words I heard this morning: "Daddy, poo-poo"

one of the downsides to parenting = potty training.

Let me elaborate a bit more.

Kite surfing vs. windsurfing. Kite surfing you just hold on. After a couple tries it's easy. Wind surfing on the other hand takes a LONG TIME before you would even think of taking one on the ocean. You have to tack, read wind etc. Kite surfing has almost none of that.

Skiing vs. snowboarding. In 5 days you can be dropping into diamond bowls and hitting kickers. On skis, it takes YEARS to get the form to ride smooth lines and handle moguls etc....
Snowboarding is way easier. C'mon now- I snowboard and I'm saying it. Ever do a big jump on skis?

Surfing vs. Boogey...no comparison. One thing about boogeys is they can get pretty friggin deep...but in 3 days you can have someone catching waves---can you do that surfing?

Let me try again with Friend #1 photos..

OK they are both hardcore
Seth Morrison

Laird

Tennis can be pretty scary too. I almost broke my neck jumping over the net to shake hands with the loser. That's why nobody does that manuever anymore. How about trying to return a 130 mph serve right atcha. Very scary.

Yes Dennis, very scary indeed!

hey s'wand! enjoy that last weekend away!!

it is VERY cool at this point - the baby is allegedly 6-8 lbs, big enuf + there's so little room in there that any little movement is noticeable. the butt and the right foot are most evident, i push on them and the baby pushes back sometimes, it is delightful.

my wife had it pretty easy for the whole pregnancy until about 3 weeks ago - on a wednesday she tripped over her own feet & fell while crossing a street in the tenderloin - 2 drunks tried unsuccessfully to come to her rescue. luckily nothing came of that other than us getting to see how a fetal monitor works. but then the following sunday she sneezed and 2 ribs popped out of alignment, causing major back spasms. the dislodging of the ribs was likely related to relaxin (sp?) and other hormones that are released in larger doses during the last few weeks to loosen up the pelvis - unfortunately they have same effect all over. it was really bad for a day but has slowly faded with help of a chiro and a brace. my neck injury happened in between those incidents so we were wondernig WTF!? for a few days!

one cool thing we did last weekend you migh consider: we took a cast of her torso. they have kits for this purpose, think it was from proudbody.com.

Hey all you proud parents, how about somebody post some pix of their daughters?

Preferably in bikinis.

That's exactly what I'm talkin about martina. Look at that fist pump. You gotta believe the next ball's coming hard! It's change yur shorts time.

Cool doc on PBS last night regarding white sharks, their food sources, and the migration of both. Awesome footage of a great white being eaten by a killer whale at the Farallons. Anyone ever seen a killer whale near Monterey? The doc showed them lurking near kelp beds. Great discussion of the feeding locales and timeline(s) for prime feeding in the Red Triangle. The footage and storyline were well done. They hinted that some of the great whites never really go away from our shores and that they may hunt together.

see loon, i knew you'd tell me some scary sh*t like that. it is so crazy the changes her body is going through. shhesh! well, i'll see you in the water, i hope, and you can provide me with more foreshadowing of my future.

what?! no one's mentioned the difficulties of skateboarding! i've done many a sport in my day, and skating is by far the most difficult of all. i've also gotten more injuries skating than all other sports combined. every time you step on that board and try a trick, there is a good chance you're gonna bust your ass!

and snowboarding....jeez...you gotta be extremely uncoordinated to need more than a couple days to achieve proficiency!!

yes- and skating is the hardest of all!

Loon, good shit! I wish you guys the best in the new few weeks. Good times ahead for sure. You are in for an experience, one you can never prepare for so don't even try!

I marked up my first blank the day my wife went into labor. Cut the template out, prepped it for the planar, all measured out and ready to rumble.

It sits as it was 9 months ago! But I still surf when I want and I am sure you will too.

Enjoy the ride!

skating is hard when you ride half pipes or street parks. street riding is pretty simple. downhill is like snowboarding but when you fall you bleed. that kind of sucks. thats why i dont skate anymore. Surfing is harder than all those combined....

Riding liquid attenuated energy pulses from possibley 1000s of miles away has to be by far the best rush I have experienced-skilled or not all of us feel it.
Surfing and Snowboarding the same day is number 2 rush.
The mountain is always there.
The streets-concrete-tar are always there.
The waves are always different.Thank God for beachbreaks.
Make the most of what you have.Live life-surf hard.
Nice mood out there now that September/October

now that Sept.-Oct. has started to satisfy

i was riding chair 1 at mt. baker with craig kelly(RIP) one spring afternoon. he had surfed only a few times at this point and whenever i saw him we'd always talk surfing. as we are riding up we watch this telemarker just own this line off a cliff band. most snowbaorders at that time (87) where totally aggro toward skiers. i was floored when the world champ turned and said to me "surfing is pretty tough but have you ever tried to telemark? i respect thier ability so much."

thanx kaiser

thanks for the well-wishes, kaiser! in the past 3 months i also bought a house and got a new job - adulthood is smacking me upside the head!!

steamwand: got two more comments for you on my experience over the past 38+ weeks:
1) my wife and i are very happy with the care she's getting from a midwife team based at st lukes. it's the only place in the city where a woman can be guaranteed that they will have a midwife there for the delivery - and that guarantee means much higher odds of avoiding csection.
2) we also participated in a "hypnobirthing" class, which youmight think of as a kinder gentler version of lamaze - vreathing still important, but more for relaxation, and no aggro coaching at all.

of course it remains to be seen how effective either will be for delivery, but hit me at pnmcs at comcast dot netttttt if you want more info on either...

did the wind actually back off...or am I high?

yes, it looks like i may have given up hope too early?

loon, do not discount the c-section... or anything further until the guy is out. you are in for the ride of your life! the very best of luck and welcome to the reason why...

Kaiser...similar story. I started restoring a '68 Dewey Weber shortly before my daughter was born (last December). It still sits as it was the day she was born, but I've managed to still get my days in the water (not feeling like I'm ditching my wife, daughter, work). Weekday DP is my best and favorite option.

randy sexton has a new fan.
what a light magician.
thanks, bagel.

guys, congrats on your soon-emerging babes.
my advice is once the labor starts, try to stay at home for as long as you can (you know from your classes what a real contraction is). once you check into the hospital, they want a 24 hour turn-around. the "failure to progress" is their way of saying c-sec. that dashed my natural childbirth fantasy pretty quick and ended with a very painful csxn. don't let anyone fool you. it's common, but it's also major abdominal surgery.
on the other hand, 2 of my friends gave birth at home in tubs of water.
not exactly surf blog subject matter here (sorry most of youse), but it's the really real part and once you've done it, you can't help but give some feedback.
'nuff said.

e-- didn't know that so many people were 'real-deal' OB locals until I hooked into your site. Amazing to see how a 3.8 or whatever stretch of beach, which on a given day can only see a handfull of takers, support so much history/knowledge/rancor/diatribe/reasoning/dreaming until I read a tasing of your site.
My boy(I am an old SF S.O.B.)...if you didn't go to the desert, there never would be a desert for you. It IS there and so you should go. We here, the non-"Kelly Cove Locals" (whatever), await the perfect swell that will greet your abscecnse. After all, some things are just as important as surfing, but NEVER more important...p.s. johnnie RIP

woe the waves are bad again..

Did anyone go out this am? I got up early for a dp. Couldn't see anything but felt a stiff breeze coming from the south and decided against a paddle out.

dennis, i made my way out in the murky drizzle at about half past six and i felt colder than i have in a long time. made it to the inside trash dump, the mist grew thicker, paddled against the walls (two rows, at least) for a while, waiting for a lull to let me through, then gave up prematurely. first time in a long time that my heart wasn't in it. maybe because i only had a half-hour left before leaving for the office?

denied!

the outside had some peelers, for sure, but mixed in with what looked like gaping froth-monsters in the line-up.

second opinion?

First weekday DP in a long time. Paddled out--nontrivial but not as bad as I'd feared given the wintery foam-everywhere look of the inside. Just a few other folks in sight once outside. Some size, but no enormous bombs where I was. Trouble getting into a bunch of waves, then caught inside, got cleaned up; walked back to the "channel", similar paddle. Two rides: a pleasant little right that I'd expected to be bigger and wilder, and a plenty-wild ledging suck-out drop which closed out pretty quickly. Gimme smaller and cleaner any day. Seals and sea lions on the inside . . .

It looked like there was a hurricane in the bay and waves were being pushed out of the bay sideways and backwards, full on east swell...wooooe!

Manor.

went out early. Very disorganized and variable swell, hard to find a wave breaking cleanly. Good fun on the 6'1"

Hey 3 to 5,
I totally agree with your comments regarding telemark skiing. I give such respect to those guys, and when you see a guy who rips, I'm often left speechless. A buddy of mine from Berkeley kills it on tele's...he's a hidden talent who will never get the true respect he desearves. Later.

What is a telemark?

Man... I was hoping to go out in the arvo. That bad, huh?? I hope it gets sunny in SF atleast.

good old fashioned ass kicking this a.m. at the beach. not that it was big or burly but i was tired from 5 beers and rock practice in the garage. paddled out at the south end and after the 20th duck dive w/ no promising waves in site i said fuck it and came in. paddled out at the north end and actually enjoyed a couple really good waves and about 3-4 smaller, shorter ones. got tossed on my last wave and rag-dolled. 75 minutes water time and a great early season workout. on to some point surf tomorrow a.m....

Dog Star

Telemarker's are badass and have awesome knees. I think the new AT stuff is way easier and more practical- but hands down to those guys it's f-in hard as hell
Kicked it w/ this photog in AK, Kevin has some insane tele shots- Check it out

http://kevinkleinphotography.com

surfing seems more difficult than tele, but I have only been surfing for 10 years and started alpine at age 3. It is much easier to learn to ski because the "wave" is consistant (more or less). One year of skiing = a life time of wave time. Tele isnt that much harder than alpine, you just have to train your brain to weight your skis a little differently. Surf and ski are both a lot of fun.

Yeah, this morning was more like I remember it. Started at the North end and by the time I got outside it was so foggy that you couldn�t see the beach. I asked a guy, (and there were quite a few of them out there), where he thought we were and he said, �Um, Sloat?� Pretty, kooky, shifty wind swell peaks outside, unforgiving brutality inside. I�ve still sand in my teeth.

Mmmm.. anyone think it's a surf afternoon today?

Not the way the flags are blowing downtown.

Last night I dreamed I was paddling out, got nailed by this OH wave and was dragged/ragdolled underwater - perfectly calmly, thank god - all the way to the shore, continuing under the Great Highway [ it was a bridge over the water ] and popped up on the other side into this calmer kiddie surf pool. Surfers there were staring and applauding , saying thing like, "Wow, we've never seen anyone dragged that far before!"

Woke up, checked conditions, made instant decision to wimp out.

Happy Weekend,

The buoy is blowing onshore 310 degrees at 20 knots.

Fort Funston wind meter shows 15 knots from 280 degrees.

Bay Area wind models show strong onshores.

Generally not considered favorable wind conditions for surfing.

Oh let's go fly a kite.

Best of luck, loon.

As for the most skillful sports out there, that Canadian one with the tea kettle on the ice with the sweeper...that's gotta take some skill to convince a someone to run around a frozen lake for you. "It's totally solid, eh, just lie flat if it starts to crack, eh."

Friday's reading club is about an old man on a big board, Randy White's Kahuna Come Lately

Right now...1 hour away

Holy shit.

Tim-mckenna.com

Tahiti was gettin' it nice.

Thanks for all the wind info guys. I just went to Burlingame for work, and the winds are coming in strong across the mountains. Hmmmm... oh well... hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.

Yabba Dabba Doobie!

lol, sharkbait.

first day of winter - yadahey!

The charts are showing diminishing winds over the next 48 hours. Maybe by Sunday afternoon we can leave home without being weighted down.

Man, the winds are shaking my apartment this morning. That's not a good sign for the surf, I take it.

MSG- that's not a good sign for your apartment...

Epic, epic day our there today.....for kite surfers!
Sh!t...
This blows!

Hahah!

More info on Ambrose & APS3000 machine please.

Anon.

Shape it with your hands.

Anyone get out in the surf today? It looks less windy, and doesn't look so bad out in SC. Man, I wanna go so bad.

went north to a sheltered spot (popular place), some funnish south lines coming through. blown out by 11. still windy out there, but next week looks promising.

I did. Big Vert's, Pubic's, Ala Mowed, Larry's and Cornocopia.
Damned hot here. Trades blowing a gentle breeze - still waves but hella clean but small.
Femme Nu tonight after the UH game - then prep for north shore next week.
My wife left me for another man.

I did. Big Vert's, Pubic's, Ala Mowed, Larry's and Cornocopia.
Damned hot here. Trades blowing a gentle breeze - still waves but hella clean but small.
Femme Nu tonight after the UH game - then prep for north shore next week.
My wife left me for another man.

fun pix:

http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/2005_10_07_cardiff.cfm

Who are you, Lame Ass???

work ruined surfing.

hope yer still jammin' E!

Is this a blog? There is alot of talk about blogs on the news. What exactly is a blog?

Mofo, yeah, it is. Type BLOG and Wikipedia in Google and you'll get a definition.

Anyone else get out there today? This morning was a little hairy. There were some bombs coming in, and some juice too. After 1 p.m., it got pretty crappy. Still some fun ones, but size definitely dropped. Overall, great day to be out there.

Hi MSG, I surfed 1-2pm; definitely some fun shortboardy waves where I was. Seemed to be a pure but sparse swell mixed with a more frequent but sectiony one. Couldn't do a morning session, which from your description sounds just as well!

I surfed Sunday morning from 8:30 to 10:30. It was lots'o'fun. Glassy and overhead. It paid to be selective of the waves though. Some would closeout, others would peel. I opted for the peelers.

I wore my 3/2 and felt ok for the first hour, but then I started getting cold. I thought the sun would do plenty to keep me warm out there...

The last wave I took off on was a fast steep left. A little late on the takeoff but I stuck a vertical drop and pulled in hard. This sucker was fast. Then I noticed a friend paddling out directly in my line. He was only about 10 yards in front of me so I cut back as hard as I could. Later he said he saw my fin just inches from his face. The look on his face as he saw me coming at him was priceless. I'm glad to say that after decades of surfing, still, I've never hit anyone with my board. But this was a close one.

Interesting comments about surfing as a Dad. I think I'll add my 2 cents. I surfed pretty much daily from age 12/13/14 up to age 20. I saw my life not really going anywhere and I didn't like it. I made a big change, and became a Mormon. I went to college & graduate school, married at age 28, had 5 kids and moved inland 700 miles to raise them. Been here almost 20 years now. I go on a surfing trip maybe 3 to 4 times a year. I'm really picky about where I go now. All the agressiveness, foul language, posturing, posing, local vibes, etc. have turned me off from my old spots. Plus the pollution. I can't believe I'm still alive after all those rainy sessions in and around Santa Monica Bay. Baja, and Humboldt County are my current favorites. We'll all get too old to surf eventually. Sorry, but surfing isn't the best thing about life. It's just the funnest. Fun has to be tempered by accomplishment, and becoming something you want to be or it's meaningless. For me, I'm really glad I made an investment in family. I'm sure not the perfect Dad, but I have a great time with my kids & so far they're turning out OK. A family sure makes you sacrafice more than just waves. But the tube time (ha ha like I get much anymore at age 52) is so much sweeter when it comes. I'm pretty lucky my wife lets me go as often as she does. All my neighborhood friends are way worse off than me. They might go hunting once a year if they're lucky. I usually try take one of my kids when I go. It's best when they're in elementary school. If they miss high school or Jr high it messes up their grades. At least primary years is when I enjoy it the most with them. I'll go for 4, 5, 6 days maybe. My oldest has sponged before & he likes it OK. That's all. No regrets. Clean living for me. And surf when I can. Soon I'll have grandchildren, and hopefully something to show for my life when I return to my maker.

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