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waves happening.

The first largish NW swell of the season pumped into the coast over the weekend.
Wind-torn and angry on Saturday afternoon, sunny and golden on Sunday.
Mavs breaking.
Ridiculous crowds at the chalet.
Barrels.
Solo mid-beach chargers.
People yelling at each other.

A long left... over the ledge and stay high in a crouched pigdog.. wave threatening to toss me over the falls as it thows-out hard and fast. Barely hang on while getting narrelled pretty sweet. See that rounded, conical view and feel the accelerating power of the wave thrust from behind.

Over the falls like the kook i am on a large set wave. Never even got to my feet, just kicked from behind by the choppy peak. airborn and then rinse-cycled for a few seconds. held down.

Saw a cool carving 360 and many nice coverup/barrels and some aggressive hacks.

Watched one seasoned surfer draw out his bottom turn, wait, wait, wait... then sling-shot off the bottom into an impressive lip-crack.

Received some stinkeye.

Glassy walls. Pitching lips. Elevator drops. Quick off-the-tops.

This morning offshore and glassyish, but the swell was lumpy and uninspired. No worries if you missed it. Saw a few nice maneuvers. Christian arced a fast speed turn off-the-top.

Watching ripping surfers is humbling.

I'm a full-on lame-ass tranny kook!!
I suck!!!
but catching waves is still fun.

-----------------

The Dave Parmenter story in the new TSJ is a good read

-----------------

New Jersey

A few fun, little waves were had, but the highlight of the morning was the full moon setting in the rose-colored sky over glassy seas. Truly epic visual scene.

Posted by: ck at October 17, 2005 10:22 AM

Moon stories. I woke up at 5 am on Sat. The moon was setting behind the Farallone Islands. The air was crystal clear. I could see the islands silhouett against the moon. It looked like something from a stage setting.

This Am. Full moon again was shining so brightly, it lit up the whole ocean. I love living by the beach.

Posted by: Dennis at October 17, 2005 10:36 AM

saturday was pretty sweet mid-morning winds weren't on it yet, some nice outer bombs. looked uncrowded but plenty of heads once you got all the way out there, not bad though. mach 5 south current. couldnt make sunday had visitors but it looked nice from the beach. people yelling and stinkeye is lame.

Posted by: vons at October 17, 2005 10:55 AM

Last night on Nature, I learned that sea otters are close relatives of skunks....an aquatic Pepe Le Peau if you will.

I've been suffering for some time from the obesity epidemic and upon switching to my fat man wetsuit which lets more water down the back, it seems that both my car key and my emergency $10 bill got washed out the key pocket while body surfing near the Taco Bell. (I might also add that I took a fair pounding.) If anyone found the key, hit me up on andrewon44th @t exite.

Posted by: Andrew in Alameda at October 17, 2005 11:00 AM

first time in the water in a few weeks sunday at a place far too packed. saw spiderman in the parking lot, went out and exhibited the finely honed skills of a kook with bird. fun...but frustrating.

Posted by: j at October 17, 2005 11:06 AM

There's a bad moon on the rise....

Posted by: blakestah at October 17, 2005 11:18 AM

This morning was a little weak but pleasant where I was--slow-moving, user-friendly waves that were not about to knock your teeth out or something (yikes, Dennis).

Posted by: kloo at October 17, 2005 11:30 AM

Are we in for nasty weather?

Posted by: Dennis at October 17, 2005 11:32 AM

i like how spiderman uses a whistle. it is by far the most effective method i've seen to prevent snaking.

Posted by: rza at October 17, 2005 11:33 AM

funny that lots of peeps that post here frequently profess to be kooks. thats redundant.

Posted by: poke at the kooks at October 17, 2005 11:34 AM

yo niceness heads, been a while.

saturday was a GAS! caught some fun fun fun
ones at this spot that i been haunting the past
week or so. some big ones. fast too. that damn
warble in the face was a little tough once or twice
but overall a nice session.

dennis you are so right i woke up in the early, early
a.m. for a nature call and was stunned by how gorgeous
the moon on the water was. just crystal clear and a huge
area of reflection on the water. so stoked i had to take that
leak.....

funny bout the stinkeye....over the course of the last few
weeks i have seen, spoken with, said howdy to some real
friendly folks out in the water. well except kaiser. not
THAT guy packs a scowl.

cheers.

hooray for fall!!

Posted by: korewin at October 17, 2005 11:37 AM

parmenter ...tsj ?
hmmm you got me puzzled bro

Posted by: mig at October 17, 2005 11:38 AM

Long time, no post. Traveled to SC and enjoyed (?) semi-crowded to crowded conditions, but also some fine overhead sheet-glass lines, at Sewer Peak and Pleasures. Consistent swells, so it was divvied up by all. We saw not even one fight/argument, and no name-calling, no anger, no stinkeyes, nobody cursing or stuffing or snaking or otherwise causing havoc and tension in the water. To surf without crowd paranoia or static is not only good in the moment, it teaches the little kids in the water good manners and patience. It is surprising to see less BS in Santa Cruz and more of it at Ocean Beach these days. Up until recently I had thought (and observed) it the other way around, where OB was the "quiet place" and SC was the super-headache crowd.

Perhaps a "moonsurf" tonight? If you dare!
-MM

Posted by: Monkey Milk at October 17, 2005 11:40 AM

Posted by: namers get owned at October 17, 2005 11:49 AM

I saw the moon rise over the Sunset District from the water last night, pretty sweet, I was tempted to get out of the water and snap some pics.

Posted by: Mexi at October 17, 2005 11:54 AM

Wait, I haven’t used a whistle since I figured out that batting my eyes and asking if they have a girlfriend will pretty much make everyone keep their distance. Except “J”, of course.

Posted by: Spiderman at October 17, 2005 11:58 AM

Surfing a mediocre beach break every day sucks.

Surfing a mediocre beach break every day and always hoping it cleans up sucks more.

Surfing a mediocre beach break every day, always hoping it cleans up, while people paddling up right next to you when they could sit by themselves makes me SCOWL.

Can't wait for some surf trips or the day it finally cleans up!

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2005 12:14 PM

spiderman, i was referring to the 'other' spiderman i saw out yesterday under the bridge rocking a hood with what looked like little bat ears.

your method would seem equally effective.

Posted by: rza at October 17, 2005 12:14 PM

Oh yeah, the moon was cool this morning and I only scowled at the kneeboarder who didn't feel like actually paddling out of my way twice. Instead, he would rather kick like a bodyboarder.

Question for you kneelo's: Is it hard to paddle those boards? Or is it harder to kick?

I will never understand kneeboarding! I see some guys rip on those things when it is DOH+ and it seems insane. Otherwise, not much interest.

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2005 12:18 PM

A deep-lunged, racking cough also clears some space, though I don't recommend going to any great lengths to pick up this technique. Keeps surf sessions short too.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 17, 2005 12:21 PM

get better sharkbait!

Posted by: e at October 17, 2005 12:22 PM

Yeah, I noticed the very same thing the last time I was at Pleasure Point. And, after seeing the regulating effect that one very cute, chatty oceanography student had on all those bitter, under-employed, under-sponsored semi-pro eastside renting locals, I’m gonna suggest that if we could get a few more women in our line-up it might have a very positive effect on the local vibe.

Posted by: Spiderman at October 17, 2005 12:24 PM

I'll be back in the water by Wednesday. My big toothless scowl should clear some room for me.

Posted by: Dennis at October 17, 2005 12:26 PM

Talk about overcrowding, the place now seems overrun by spidermen!

Posted by: Spiderman at October 17, 2005 12:32 PM

I was driving past all those spots at SC on Sunday and those places were fricken ZOO's!! I haven't seen that many people in the water since, I dunno, Hawaii. It was SO CROWDED.

Posted by: MSG at October 17, 2005 12:38 PM

they don't call it 'Santa Crowded' for nothing!

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 12:39 PM

Sunday in the city...
crowded

uncrowded

Posted by: Walker at October 17, 2005 12:42 PM

Walker - you gotta repost those pics from Saturday.

Im still reliving that day!! What a blast!!

Posted by: traut at October 17, 2005 12:44 PM


Posted by: Walker at October 17, 2005 12:57 PM

Niceness. France, epic. Hope all is well. New pics at

http://aloha2ian.modblog.com

But in case you don't have time to copy'n'paste..


Scotland, about 10-11 ft. on the face.


Scotland


Francois


Hossegor, going.


Good 'ol fun shore break


Leeeefts


Riiiights

Posted by: Ian at October 17, 2005 12:58 PM

Posted by: blip! at October 17, 2005 12:59 PM

oops. trying again.

Posted by: Walker at October 17, 2005 01:01 PM

apparently hossegor doesn't have the 200 yards of cement paddle out zone. nice pics ian.

Posted by: Walker at October 17, 2005 01:08 PM

I put up some new pics on my site.

I didn't even know OB was working on Sat, I just figured it was too big and worked in the garden all day.

Posted by: mexi at October 17, 2005 01:29 PM


it's true. admitting you're a kook doesn't
lessen or alleviate the reality

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 01:30 PM

I am just a soul searching surfer
.And a dedicated guy .
who hoped and prayed and scrimped and
saved so that one day i could fly.
My Idea was to travel the globe
and to surf where ever it could be had.
And cheering me on
were my biggest fans lets call them mom and dad
.I
planned the trip I knew the way . I traveled it in my
sleep.
The weird day was when I
sold my truck .No longer mine to keep.
Still it fetched
me the the money I neaded, to make the trip
complete.
See a surfers dream is to surf a wave that's the best
he has ever had.
Then to paddle back out to a better one, I
think the word is rad.
See surfing is like
life. That much I have found, and
neither should be taken for granted.. But
I live for the rush when I am droping in and downward, and
my board becomes slanted.
To harness the energy of the
swell, that heads toward the beaches shore.
I think of how lucky a surfer I am.
How could any one ask for more.

Posted by: Ian's Dad at October 17, 2005 01:30 PM

Looks like the surf is kinda picking up out there. I'm thinking of heading out for a late afternoon session.

Posted by: MSG at October 17, 2005 01:31 PM

this weekend felt like spring, too mushy and lumpy for my tastes... still awesome to be out in some sizey waves with offshore wind though

Posted by: bbr at October 17, 2005 01:33 PM

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 01:35 PM

Bring on the offshores!

Posted by: flades at October 17, 2005 01:53 PM

Walker, that's a really nice shot of OB sunday "crowded"

Posted by: nice image noticer at October 17, 2005 02:00 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2005 02:18 PM

lets go rollerblading Kaiser...i have a new bikini

say Beach Chalet 5pm?

Posted by: meet me Kaiser at October 17, 2005 02:23 PM

Fine!

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2005 02:25 PM

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 02:27 PM

WHOA! FARKIn' HOT!!!

Looks like surf is coming back alive. I'm there.

Posted by: MSG at October 17, 2005 02:35 PM

i'll see your rollerblader and i'll raise you this

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 02:36 PM

thats after the rollerblading i guess?

Posted by: post session at October 17, 2005 02:36 PM

You guys are rat bastards. That's the last thing a girl-less guy needs to see right now.

Hey guys, i'm thinking of getting a new wetsuit. Any recommendations? Anyone use Xcel wetsuits before? I've read that they have fantastic warranty policies. Please let me know. My 3/2 is no longer cutting it.

Posted by: MSG at October 17, 2005 02:45 PM

I'm out there. I'm going to holla all you off my waves then come back and write here about it.

Cause I'm a pimp. Smack yur bitch up.

niceness.

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 02:47 PM

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 02:54 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2005 02:56 PM

Posted by: Hb at October 17, 2005 02:57 PM

MSG - the most important thing is the fit. All diiferent manucaturers have different sizing so you have to try on a few differet suits and find the one that works with your body shape. I always used O'Neill but have recently switched to Xcel. I don't like the flap that holds the back panel to the shoulder on O'Neills. The velcro wears out, losing it's holding power and needs to be replaced. I have friends that swear by Xcel. We'll see.

Posted by: Dennis at October 17, 2005 03:03 PM

Posted by: Kaiser at October 17, 2005 03:25 PM

I've worn excels for the last three or four years. They are good, but seem to wear out in about 16 months. I really like the zipper across - as they never bust open - which is perhaps the worst experience I've ever had in the ocean.

Anyone have the new bodyglove wetsuit? Thoughts and reviews would be appreciated.

Another question - and this might be somewhat goofy sounding but what is everyone's general aerobic preparation for winter? Do you run or bike in addition to surf? I was out Sat. mid-beach. Pretty good session, but one hold down is making me rethink my approach to those aerobic activities.

Posted by: g. at October 17, 2005 04:09 PM

And damn that girl on the left in the pic above is HOT.

Posted by: g. at October 17, 2005 04:10 PM

actually damn they are all HOT

Posted by: g. at October 17, 2005 04:10 PM

i think this girl is cute

Posted by: e at October 17, 2005 04:22 PM

linda mar photo by Shaw

Posted by: e at October 17, 2005 04:24 PM

lindy

Posted by: e at October 17, 2005 04:25 PM

Thats what that place looked like this morning..
im out of here at 5 i dont care if the waves suck..

Posted by: bagel at October 17, 2005 04:38 PM

Posted by: bruddah wit da pink tie at October 17, 2005 04:47 PM

hmm...nice surfboard. OH, and it comes with the foot harness.

http://cgi.ebay.com/T-C-Surfboard-stage-one-surf-board_W0QQitemZ7190344632

Posted by: j at October 17, 2005 05:12 PM

oh my. that is so sad and funny.

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 05:31 PM

SIck pics Ian!

Just out of the H2O OK

Posted by: Mexi at October 17, 2005 05:50 PM

Got it good today. A+ conditions, B+ swell. Can't complain! What a day at the beach!

Posted by: Surfseeker7 at October 17, 2005 06:07 PM

surfseeker7. you are in need of a recalibration of surfstokemeter, very quickly.
A- conditions (there was no light offshore, even though it was trying). and a C+ swell (it was wonky windswell with lumps in it).
I recommend the best presecription for a non-calibrated surfstokemeter - you must fly to indonesia asap and score some late season A+ swells and conditions...
And anyone else that surfs ob year around should regulalry recalibrate their surfstokemeter as well. an ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure (unless its that kind bud that seems to be everywhere around here).

Posted by: jonno at October 17, 2005 07:09 PM

North of SF












Posted by: Brian at October 17, 2005 07:17 PM

Hey Dennis, g., thanks for the info. I'm thinking of getting an Xcel now. My O'neil wetsuit is starting to get flooded pretty easily. Water just goes right through the neck part. You're right about the velcro, it seems like that whole flap has become loose and one good duckdive and i'm just drenched inside with sea water. Dang, I think it's has only been 16 months since I bought the damn thing. I musta taken it out around 40 times, or so, in California. Is this the usual lifespan of a wetsuit? How do you know when it's time for a new one? I just want a thicker wetsuit, but it might be that my wetsuit is starting to get old. I don't know. This is my first full suit.

Oh, by the way, g., I usually just do long periods of light aerobic stuff: an hour or so of exercise in the 130-140 bpm heart rate range. I used to swim quite a lot last year to train for winter time at O.B. I don't think it helped any. By the way, i'm not the most cardiovascular gifted person -- pretty average, come to think of it. I think the best exercise to surf better, is just surf more. I went out to double OH O.B. at the North Lot last Nov., and it was pretty hairy. But, after getting used to it, and catching some solid set waves, I was stoked on confidence, and just paddling for anything. I think it just takes confidence, and learning how to be calm in hairier situations.

On that note, last Sunday, I was paddling out and got pretty damn winded by the time I made it to the outer bar. I was thinking, if a full on set just unleashed infront of me like Pipe, I would drown. A set wave did, but it was easy to duck dive. If I was at Pipe, and a set that big unleashed infront of me, I would be doing cartwheels all the way to the beach.

Posted by: MSG at October 17, 2005 08:08 PM

This place is boring. Kaiser is now a claimer from San Mateo.


Posted by: i miss Bob at October 17, 2005 08:09 PM

Oh yeah, today effing rocked! It's definitely Fall out there. I thought it was really nice conditions: glassy, sunny, warm, and the bars seemed configured better -- must be due to the last few days of swell. It wasn't that big, but it was SUPER fun. Some good OH+ swells on the biggest sets.

Posted by: MSG at October 17, 2005 08:11 PM

RE: "http://cgi.ebay.com/T-C-Surfboard-stage-one-surf-board_W0QQitemZ7190344632"

Ah hahahahaha...Wait, isn't that a neck harness?

Oh my.

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at October 17, 2005 08:32 PM

I make local's local. I am FORT POINT. If you come, make sure to bring a friend. I prefer old, bald, fat ones.

I think I am cool because hot marina girls come see me everyday. I smile back.

I am FORT POINT, here me!

Posted by: Ft. Point at October 17, 2005 08:55 PM

hey Ft. Point ill bring some fatty old bald dudes named Pete and Delmar i know

Posted by: Brian at October 17, 2005 09:00 PM

YAWNNNNNNNNNNN

Posted by: fart at October 17, 2005 09:03 PM

oh and thanks for the really sad-ass surf 'photos', YAWNNNNNN

Posted by: fart at October 17, 2005 09:04 PM

yeah well bugger you

Posted by: Brian at October 17, 2005 09:41 PM

yeah well bugger you

Posted by: Brian at October 17, 2005 09:41 PM

More guy's "haslin' " the Fort dudes.
Coming out on the internet and really really fucking sticking it to 'em. Keep it up you tough Trannies! I'm rooting for you! When you finish clearing it out send in a note to niceness that it is now safe to surf on my foamie and bail my board! Barbecues and beers and I'll invite all my Marina friends! Maybe next year we can have the ski jump on a day with a great chest high swell! I love chest high days! I love niceness!

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 10:50 PM

Yeah. It does seem weird all the belly aching about bad vibes, Ft Point, Kelly's Cove and Santa Cruz.
Handle it in the water? Paddle away or fight on the spot for good over evil? Why come to a site supposedly about good vibes and talk about bad vibes? How does that make sense?

Posted by: at October 17, 2005 11:40 PM

Swell is flashing. Wind turning south. Sleep tight little ones!

Posted by: Reporter at October 17, 2005 11:49 PM

quit rooster chesting it and smile at the kid that just got into his first split second green room or charged it like never before and then shot the wad in his wettie. that was you. ya you. now you're a dick, yet 50 people surf better than you. roots bitch, remember your roots. a homeless lady on the 71 line got on and said to the driver "a frown'z a smile turned upside down". you're in the ocean so rock that shit until someone dicks you out.

Posted by: forty pointers at October 18, 2005 12:03 AM

Ah, shit, looks like it's going to be the day at O.B. tomorrow. Too bad I can't make it.

Dudes, you guys ALL have to check this guy out:

Dan Osman

What this guy just did owns anything i've ever seen pulled off at MACKING Teahupoo, Jaws, or Mavericks. This guy fucking OWNS. Laird Hamilton is a goosebump on this dude's BUTT. This guy has probably got the athleticism of Lance Armstrong, coupled with the cajones of all the big wave riders put together. You gotta see the dynamic maneuvers that guy pulls off without any ropes. Effing unbelievable.

Posted by: MSG at October 18, 2005 12:13 AM

Nah, nevermind. That Spiderman guy owns. He solo free climbs effing buildings.

Posted by: MSG at October 18, 2005 12:43 AM

Posted by: #71 Bus at October 18, 2005 07:09 AM

MSG-did you miss the part where he DIED...? In 1999...Osmond had some demons but that dyno was nuts.

Posted by: msg at October 18, 2005 08:10 AM

whoops,lastone was me.

Posted by: flap at October 18, 2005 08:12 AM

i'm not the seller, but i thought someone here might be interested in a skil 100 in "good" shape for $150:

http://www.craigslist.org/eby/tls/104936109.html

Posted by: at October 18, 2005 09:38 AM
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