E's Surf Report

frist post

Isn't it "psot"? Yesterday morning was not bad at all for high tide.

Gooey, milky ejaculate

OK, I have a story to tell. Went out at a location not OB on Saturday morning. The waves kinda sucked there and it was a bit crowded in a small takoff zone for my liking but that's not the story.

After I finished my session, I went to my car, ate a banana, walked over to the trash can to throw away my peel and accidentally threw my car key in the trash can with the banana peel. The peel landed on the top of the trash but my key made its way to the bottom.

Now I'm digging through the trash can pulling crap out as I go. I also look like a homeless person cuz I hadn't shaved in a couple days, my hair was sticking up as I had not brushed it after getting out of the wetsuit, I was wearing an old pair of sweat paint and a t-shirt. People would walk by and look at me with a disgusting look. I repeated several times that I was not hungry, I had dropped my car key in the trash. Most folks belived me for what that was worth...

Anyway, as I was digging, I came across a black bag. I looked inside and found a set of keys that looked like car, office, and house--including a garage door opener. One passport. A card case with the owners business cards. One checkbook including the owners asddress and phone number. One empty credit card/billfold. Ah, and finally my car key.

Not having my glasses with me I could not read anything. I had to go home anyway to collect my wife for a small get together. I call the number on the checkbook and connect with the owners wife. I explain how I found the bag in the trash and make plans to meet her at the house where the party is planned, which happens to be near her house. Fine.

Half hour later I at the party having a find time when a distinguised party member politely and quietly calls me outside. The police are looking for me, he says. No guns drawn. But I had to walk the policeman back to my car and deliver the bag with the whole sorty of how I found it. What I was doing rooting through the trash. Name, address, phone number. Blah, blah blah. Being satsified that I was telling the truth, he took the bag to deliver to the lady. Seems she was kinda scared about meeting somebody at a strange location, that had been digging through a trash can, that had all her information, house keys, car keys, and garage door opener. Smart lady. She stayed home to protect the house.

The party host came out to make sure I was Ok. The distinguished guest aforementioned stayed nearby but not too close. All ended well, and the party was fun.

End of story.

That is certainli a girl ripper.

HAPPY HALLLOWEEN!!!!!! BOOOOOOO!!

Nowadays they make it a pain in the ass to do the right thing, huh Dennis.

Oh yeah, I left out the juicy part. The bag originally contained $3000 and a stack of credit cards. Actually, I thought the lady did the right thing. The cop was very polite.

I made a cheesey B movie of the south swell from early October (Windows Media Player format). If the link below doesn't work, there's one at the bottom center of my home page. If nothing else, it's worth it to see Broglio's bottom turns.

http://www.surfhumor.com/surfbungalows/Lane%20October.wmv

pretty interesting story, Dennis

That's very cool of you Dennis. People get really freaked out nowadays. $3K? I wonder if the original thief knew there was that much money in the bag? As I was reading your story, I was kinda hoping the woman ended up being a porn star or something, and wanted to show her appreciation!

Oh well...

went out yesterday near low tide. Some kook on a white Stewart longboard with blue rails nearly ran me over. He was a short skinny older dude with a big mouth. Anyway, after missing me (which was good, because I shield my board with my body), he finished his right, and did a prominent kick out. He basically launched his board down the line and nearly hit someone.

The next wave came and snapped his leash, and BVB had to swim in after it, but not until he had finished yelling at the guy he almost hit for not grabbing his board after the leash broke!

Poor, misunderstood, Bad Vibe.

nice thanks bruce! and good one on you Dennis. fun yesterday. boo.

I don't know if this is the place but... I'm planning a trip up to Alaska this summer. I'm looking for someone to do the trip with about 6 weeks, Driving up the coast, chillin on Vancouver Island and surfing for a week, the north thru the Yukon to South East Alaska, surfing a fishing, I know of some nice spots. I'm planning on camping the whole time. I'm looking for a small boat to bring also. If you are intersested I'll give specifics. Email me. mexican surf star at yahoo

can I bring and sell some meth?

Went out Sunday around 10:30 Am. Current was strong but the waves were pretty fun. They were breaking on an outter bar at a little over head high. Fun takeoffs but a little soft on the shoulders. Not as consistant as the inside but no crowds. Everybody was hanging inside. I had fun outside.

No meth think green

You're a freeking goob. Deal is it's crowded. I saw the whole thing and BV does not normally need to use a leash with a lboard; helps with not breaking it just to let it go. Rather swim for it...BV in the curl and some guy is in the way duck diving in front of him so he shoots the board out in front and beyond him as not to hit him. Saved the board and the guy - with the leash the board would have hit him. BV waited to see if the guy was Ok but the guy didn't even know what BV had done for him. Typical lameass fat fuck.
So fuck you with your sideways glances and snap judgement. YOU SUCK BLAKESTAH. SEE YOU IN THE WATER AND ON THE BEACH YOU CHUMP. You and you're merry band of inept fucking fantasy "surfers" can take all your bullshit and shove it up your collective midwesteastcoastass.

I went out between 2pm and 4pm on Sunday. I'd rate it A- conditions, B- swell. Had fun, but waiting for better swell later this week.

"BVB has a posse" is either joking or really in need of a double soy latte at Java beach....

Interesting story, Dennis, but bad screenplay. YOu would need to spice it up: the bag belonged to a famous celebrity, and he invited you into his house. He was having a wild orgy, and asked you to partake. Everyone was wearing costumes, doing drugs, and getting debaucherous. You ended up doing a new drug, and passed up. You woke up with your ass hole sore, and dreams of gay sex. You wind up in a Surfers Gone Wild video next year.

But the fact still remains BVB was surfing Fort Point and yelling at people when it was 4 foot. That's good enough joke for me.

OB delivers goodness. The fortune of a mellow crowd half-heartedly chasing head-high set waves and taking it easy on one another cannot be underestimated. Not 1 aggro at my location yesterday, so I wasn't forced to summon the dreaded doppleganger. No mischief on mischief night. Mo' blessed.

mexi,
can't join you,..... family
say hi to sepp and the tofino boys

Halloween

Jesus, things never change in here. I'll fall in line and try to cheer up all the negative shit as usual.

For what it is worth, I'd rather surf with someone that straightens out and yells at me then runs me over.

Where's my phone call?

A leashless longboard careening towards the beach is not exactly a comforting thought.

If it wasn't for BVB niceness would have nothing to talk about.

I stayed in Sepp and Raphs tree house last time I was up there.

photo: nice labia bulge but her face looks like a primate. oo oo ah ah oo oo ah ah

Anon, that used to be a typical weekend for me. No big deal at all - except for the sore butt part ;^)

Um, we're all primates.

saturday fun in the heavy stuff but frustrated that i didn't get more good rides, had a tough time getting in the right spot, felt a little either undergunned or out of paddling shape.

good times sunday, mellow crowd, nice waves, some long rides, cool sunset.

so true, anonhomonoid, but, we don't still look like one. she does. get over it.

Yes, angry BVB posse person, calm down,
have a soy latte and join the Niceness group,
choose a clever name, acknowledge your
other blog companions, enjoy Kaiser's lite
porn, and share the nice feelings!

anybody find a black fleecy o'neill rashguard yesterday midday (1 pm or so) near stair 25? i think i spaced and drove off with it on top of my car. oops...

Paul,

yeah, I think I found that. But I took it home and masturbated into it. If you still want it that's cool. Just let me know where to hook up. Later.

Pick me up tomorrow at dawn! Latte's on me!

hey, quit picking on us you big jerks. :( *frowny face*

Drove the beach saturday a.m. - fogged in - no visible line ups. Pull up at VFW's and talk to a guy who just got out. He says he got denied at Sloat and drove down here. Somehow he eventually made it out, caught 2 waves, then his leash broke and he had to swim in. Says it's 8 feet, maybe 10 at the peak on the biggest sets. Sounds like fun OB, suit up. I see Judith slotted in the sweet spot on 3 different gnarly waves - while I'm paddling out - Inspiration. 3 hours later I catch my last ride into the beach at Pacheco. Longest walk back at OB ever - so worth it!

Hey Andrew - thanks for the input regarding your hooded vest. I picked one up last week. It's very comfortable and warm. Flushes are greatly reduced.

I just got my Psycho 2 back from Oneill after about 4 weeks. They practically rebuilt the thing. Completely new colar and velcro. They resealed all the seams, inside and out, and relaced the legs from the knee to ankle. I was going to sell it when it came back but I think it's too good to get rid of now. It's nice having three 4/3's. I do like my new Xcel though. It fits best.

my psycho 1 busted a huge hole after only a month of use. friggin sucks. Now i have to wait a month while surfing a shitty, poorly-fitting replacement suit that i had to beg Wise to lend me (they don't lend suits anymore while you're waiting for a suit to be fixed) Otherwise i'd be out for november with no suit.. THis is the second time a $300 O'neil has busted on me in the first month. WTF?

saturday was fun. the fog made it very difficult to see just how far you were moving down the beach. also kept the crowds down, clean peaks and some nice lined up sets came in. current was a bitch, i did a bit better than wrestler. 4 hours after starting at VFWs i came in at moraga. that was 4 hours of north paddling the whole frickin time though. well maybe 3 1/2. the last 1/2 hour i gave up.

claude Debussy is mellowing me this morning.

Dennis/E,

What's the process for getting a suit fixed from O'Neill? Do you have to go through Wise or can you go directly to O'Neill?

d_loose - If you bought it from Wise, just take it to them after you have thoroughly cleaned (detergent and good rinsing) and dried it. If the suit is really old, they may not send it back for repair for free, or at all.

Debussy looks alot like Albeniz.

Bob, I had the kids yesterday. Sounds like I missed something special.

Saturday morning sloat. 0nly dude around 7:00am can't see shit. Soooo figure trhe 6'8" is enough + paddle out. After some sweet beatings I pulled out south of Fort Funston. Thought the incoming tide would take me to Rivera but NOOOO. Lot's of water moving, big ledgy walls and peaks. Did anyone else feel the pain?? Didn't get any really good ones unless you count the one on the head. Weird...

WTF?

sweet comics

XCel - is excellent, used to be a shabby suit but they are put together pretty well and not OVER-DESIGNED like the O'Neills. They must have hired a new product designer.

What is up with the stand-up paddling on gigantic longboards? Looks like it wouldn't be so much fun unless you had a straw hat and a corn-cob pipe. Good for the outside mush-burgers....

Good for Romanowski

That's quite a close out!

OB was on fire yesterday!! that's right, I named it, Ocean Beach. Ha!!!!

dude, dont you know that namers get owned? guyeee

How many of us would look at that close-out above, and decide: "Hmmmm, I think I'll snap up real quick and see if I can make a floater while this thang comes crashing down.

none...

floater?? you mean that isn't how you're supposed to CATCH them?

WHO NAMES YOU FUCKING LOSERS! FAHK!

been thinkin about gettin new wettie as my 1 1/2 year old excel seams are starting to leak
but you guys talking about oneil got me thinking its worth a call to the manufacturer , right
i just got off the phone with a sweet haleiwa wahine
who emailed a repair authorization to me and i'm sending the suit to surf city, so cal for an overhaul
i'll blog the results when i get it back

how many? count me.

Love those big close-out floaters, one of my fav moves. If it's gonna pound you, why not take a look from the rooftop before you visit the basement?

Excel Pro at Sunset on live feed
http://www.surfinglive.com/events/xcel2005/index.jsp

in contests, which is what that is from, you are looking to score points and floaters score points. who knows at what point this dude was in the contest, could have been his last wave and needed a 10.0 to advance so he just went all out. at DOH OB, i will not be pulling off anything like that.

RE: OB CAR THIEF INFO: Whoever Johnnie is that posted on 10/27 saying he can vouch for Littleman (Scarface) is full of it. Littleman DON'T surf---he steals and robs from people! PERIOD! His car is now spray painted black with a new license plate # 5PSM617. If you could zoom into his picture, you could tell that he's got a huge scar down the side of his face just like some of the other poster's on this board described him as. He is staying somewhere on Darien St. near St. Francis Woods, but parks his black colored toyota celica around the corner on a street called Manor St. (I believe). Believe you me, this is the guy. Be alert and watch out for this scumbag!

Go Chaz Chidester!

fa·ce·tious ( P ) Pronunciation Key (f-sshs)
adj.

Playfully jocular; humorous: facetious remarks.

good vibes rule.

stay stoked on life.

you only get one go around.

e, that CJ wave up top is resickulous. CJ pwns.

Reincarnation

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It is known that the Egyptians believed in reincarnation or the transmigration of the soul. They thought the soul transmigrated from body to body and this was a reason why they embalmed the body in order to preserve it so that it could journey along with ka, an animating force that was believed to be counterpart of the body, which would accompany it in the next world or life. Ka might be considered equivalent to the term of soul. This establishes the dating of the concept of reincarnation back to the ancient Egyptian religion but many think it dates beyond antiquity.

The belief is thought to have been an necessity among primitive peoples. Certainly long before ancient Egypt peoples believed in transmigration of the soul. If they were not sophisticated enough to understand the concept of a soul, then they may have simply called it life. An individual or object which moved had life, and the one which did not, did not have life. This is analogous to the belief of animism.

Gradually the concept of a soul developed with a further realization that the soul departed the body at death and entered the body at birth. Soon it was thought the soul leaving a dead body would seek another body to enter, or enter an animal of a lower life form. It was also thought the soul left the body during sleep. This soul was pictured as vapors that entered and left through the nostrils and mouth.

Later grew the notion the soul transmigrated to an infant of one of dead person's kin. This helped to explain family resemblances.

The terms reincarnation and transformation of the soul, especially when applied to humans, are about synonymous. However reincarnation is not accurately synonymous with either metamorphosis or resurrection. Metamorphosis is roughly the changing of one life form into another life form. Resurrection, in the Christian sense, means the rising again of the body after death.

About the first definition of soul transmigration came from Pythagoras, the Greek philosopher and mathematician, who taught that the soul was immortal and merely resides in the body; therefore, it survived bodily death. His further teachings held the soul goes through a series of rebirths. Between death and rebirth the soul rests and is purified in the Underworld. After the soul has completed this series of rebirths is becomes so purified that it can leave the transmigration or reincarnation cycle.

Plato, another Greek philosopher, shared similar views as Pythagoras in that the soul of man was eternal, pre-existence, and wholly spiritual. In Plato's view of the transmigration of the soul from body to body, however, there is a difference. Plato claimed the soul tends to become impure during these bodily inhabitations although a minimal former life knowledge remains. However, if through its transmigrations the soul continues doing good and eliminates the bodily impurities it will eventually return to its pre-existence state. But, if the soul continually deteriorates through its bodily inhabitations it will end up in Tartarus, a place of eternal damnation. This appears to be an origination of both the concept of karma and the Christian concept of hell.

It was around the first century AD that both the Greek and Roman writers were surprised by the fact that the Druids, a priestly caste of the Celts (see Druidism), believed in reincarnation. The Greek writer Diordus Siculus (c. 60 BC - 30 AD) noted that the Druids believed "the souls of men are immortal, and that after a definite number of years they live a second life when the soul passes to another body." The Greek philosopher Strabo (c. 63 BC - 21 AD) observed the Druids believed that "men's souls and the universe are indestructible, although at times fire and water may prevail."

Even Julius Caesar wrote of the Celts "They wish to inculcate this as one of their leading tenets, that souls do not become extinct, but pass after death from one body to another, and they think that men by this tenet are in a great degree stimulated to valor, the fear of death being disregarded." Elsewhere Caesar complained the Druids were a troublesome people. They were difficult to destroy.

There is little evidence of reincarnation among the early Hebrew people but it later became a part of the Kabbalistic teaching. The teaching occurred among the early Christians, especially the Gnostics, Manichaeans, and the Carthari, but was later repudiated by orthodox Christian theologians. When asked by college students why Christianity does not teach reincarnation Patricia Crowther, a witch, answered, "...The early Christians taught it (reincarnation), and this can be proved by the words of Saint Gregory, Bishop of Nyssa: 'It is absolutely necessary that the soul shall be healed and purified, and if it doesn't take place in one life on earth, it must be accomplished in future earthly lives.'"

Later, in AD 533, reincarnation was declared a heresy by the Council of Constantinople.

The reason reincarnation was repudiated was because of the eschatological teachings of death and judgment which were established as orthodox Christian doctrine. In simplicity this doctrine states man has just one life in which to merit his eternal reward or damnation. Such a doctrine also strengthened the Church. However, many Christians still believe in reincarnation because they think it was taught by Christ.

In an interview the author Jess Stern asked a lady who had previously seen the late American mystic Edgar Cayce "Why do you now find it so important to believe in reincarnation -- wouldn't just being a good Christian, believing in the message of God through Christ be sufficient to get you into Heaven?"

She answered plainly, "Don't you know that Christianity embraced reincarnation for three hundred years, until the Roman influence expunged it after the Enmperor Constantine recognized the Church? What do you think the early Christians were thinking when they asked Christ whether he was Elijah, who had come before? They were think reincarnation, that's what."

She continued, "If you thought of reincarnation as rebirth, I think you could understand it better. Just as the earth has a constant rebirth, so does the spirit. Don't you remember Christ saying, 'Unless man is reborn, he cannot enter the Kingdom of Heaven?'"

Stern told her he thought the was a reference to baptism. She replied, "Christ was not interested in show, but substance, that was at the heart of everything he said or did."

Most occultists and witches would certainly agree with their Christian friend. Reincarnation is rebirth. Just as the earth is renewed so is the spirit or soul which knows no death. To many reincarnation is taught by nature herself. Some would say by the Mother Goddess. In the spring the trees give birth to new leaves, flowers bloom, new foliage springs up. In summer and fall the crops are harvested. In winter the earth rests, everything is dormant. This is the earth's life-cycle which many believe symbolizes the spirit's.

The Christian lady speaking with Stern referred to reincarnation as a learning experience. Each reincarnation not only purifies the soul more, but this purification comes through opportunities to learn more in life if the soul is willing. Here is a division of thought concerning reincarnation. Eastern religions such as Buddhism and Hinduism teach each reincarnation may be different, that is, man may return as a lower life form such as a plant, tree, or animal.

Certain sects of Gnosticism held this belief too. The rationale of such a belief is that the soul has to experience all aspects of life. Western thought of reincarnation is that man just reincarnates to higher spiritual levels of life, but never returns as a lower life form. In Western philosophy it is also held if man does not reach a higher spiritual level he must repeat the cycle until he does.

Most occultists and witches believe reincarnation is a cycle of birth, death, and rebirth. As to the exact cyclical process there are divergent views. Some hold a view similar to the Buddhists the individual personality disintegrates at death with its characteristics forming in a pool with other traits which come together in new reincarnations. Others believe reincarnations only occur within a tribe, race, or family. This is Odinism. Another view is that there is a resting period between reincarnations, where the soul rests in a state of bliss in the astral plane called Summerland before it passes into the next reincarnation.

Many occultists have attempted to retrace their past lives or reincarnations by dream analysis, meditation, or occasionally hypnotic regression. The witch Sybil Leek thought she had been Madame Helena P. Blavatsky, the co-founder of the Theosophical Society. Aleister Crowley believed he traced his reincarnations from Pope Alexander VI, renowned for his love of physical pleasures; to Edward Kelly, the assistant of the Elizabethan occultist and magician John Dee; to Cagliostro; to Eliphas Levi who died on the same day as Crowley was born. Continuing back further Crowley believed he had been Ankh-fn-Khonsu, an Egyptian priest of the XXVIth dynasty. A.G.H.

Whomever posted all that crap needs a kick in the hole.

October 31, 2005
Editorial Observer
Why Race Isn't as 'Black' and 'White' as We Think
By BRENT STAPLES
People have occasionally asked me how a black person came by a "white" name like Brent Staples. One letter writer ridiculed it as "an anchorman's name" and accused me of making it up. For the record, it's a British name - and the one my parents gave me. "Staples" probably arrived in my family's ancestral home in Virginia four centuries ago with the British settlers.

The earliest person with that name we've found - Richard Staples - was hacked to death by Powhatan Indians not far from Jamestown in 1622. The name moved into the 18th century with Virginians like John Staples, a white surveyor who worked in Thomas Jefferson's home county, Albemarle, not far from the area where my family was enslaved.

The black John Staples who married my paternal great-great-grandmother just after Emancipation - and became the stepfather of her children - could easily have been a Staples family slave. The transplanted Britons who had owned both sides of my family had given us more than a preference for British names. They had also given us their DNA. In what was an almost everyday occurrence at the time, my great-great-grandmothers on both sides gave birth to children fathered by white slave masters.

I've known all this for a long time, and was not surprised by the results of a genetic screening performed by DNAPrint Genomics, a company that traces ancestral origins to far-flung parts of the globe. A little more than half of my genetic material came from sub-Saharan Africa - common for people who regard themselves as black - with slightly more than a quarter from Europe.

The result that knocked me off my chair showed that one-fifth of my ancestry is Asian. Poring over the charts and statistics, I said out loud, "This has got to be a mistake."

That's a common response among people who are tested. Ostensibly white people who always thought of themselves as 100 percent European find they have substantial African ancestry. People who regard themselves as black sometimes discover that the African ancestry is a minority portion of their DNA.

These results are forcing people to re-examine the arbitrary calculations our culture uses to decide who is "white" and who is "black."

As with many things racial, this story begins in the slave-era South, where slap and tickle among slaves, masters and mistresses got started as soon as the first slave ship sailed into Jamestown Harbor in 1619. By the time of the American Revolution, there was a visible class of light-skinned black people who no longer looked or sounded African. Free mulattos, emancipated by guilt-ridden fathers, may have accounted for up to three-quarters of the tiny free-black population before the Revolution.

By the eve of the Civil War, the swarming numbers of mixed-race slaves on Southern plantations had become a source of constant anguish to planters' wives, who knew quite well where those racially ambiguous children were coming from.

Faced with widespread fear that racial distinctions were losing significance, the South decided to define the problem away. People with any ascertainable black ancestry at all were defined as black under the law and stripped of basic rights. The "one drop" laws defined as black even people who were blond and blue-eyed and appeared white.

Black people snickered among themselves and worked to subvert segregation at every turn. Thanks to white ancestry spread throughout the black community, nearly every family knew of someone born black who successfully passed as white to get access to jobs, housing and public accommodations that were reserved for white people only. Black people who were not quite light enough to slip undetected into white society billed themselves as Greek, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian, South Asian, Native American - you name it. These defectors often married into ostensibly white families at a time when interracial marriage was either illegal or socially stigmatized.

Those of us who grew up in the 1950's and 60's read black-owned magazines and newspapers that praised the racial defectors as pioneers while mocking white society for failing to detect them. A comic newspaper column by the poet Langston Hughes - titled "Why Not Fool Our White Folks?" - typified the black community's sense of smugness about knowing the real racial score. In keeping with this history, many black people I know find it funny when supposedly white Americans profess shock at the emergence of blackness in the family tree. But genetic testing holds plenty of surprises for black folks, too.

Which brings me back to my Asian ancestry. It comes as a surprise, given that my family's oral histories contain not a single person who is described as Asian. More testing on other family members should clarify the issue, but for now, I can only guess. This ancestry could well have come through a 19th-century ancestor who was incorrectly described as Indian, often a catchall category at the time.

The test results underscore what anthropologists have said for eons: racial distinctions as applied in this country are social categories and not scientific concepts. In addition, those categories draw hard, sharp distinctions among groups of people who are more alike than they are different. The ultimate point is that none of us really know who we are, ancestrally speaking. All we ever really know is what our parents and grandparents have told us.

Re-create
Try not to hate
the herb is great
don't get irate.

positive vibrations.
pleasant sensations.
no vexed ministrations.
just chilled irations.

I went into a kooky valley surf shop just to feel the boards since i haven't been in the water lately b/c of crazy work. The dude in the back asked if i surfed today b/c his buddies went and they said it was all time perfect. What? I read it was super small and weak. Then I realized, it was the first very sunny, very hot day in awhile. Remember kids, sun and warmth means the waves are great. Guess his buddies were MSG and friends.

Uh-oh, that was a bvb-lite post. Sorry i need some saltwater baaad.

get hb an emergency barrelectomy!

stat!

some poofter

damn Dr. good vibes to the rescue. nice.

FIRE! fire in the mission. closest as ill get to quoting the greatful dead.

http://www.kron.com/Global/story.asp?S=4053541

occy is good.

ps. not to make light of that shit.

Friends don't let friends post longwinded critical analyses on surf bloogs.

Whoa. I was just typing at my desk and all of a sudden i am screaming down the line and get covered up for what seemed like eternity. I was shot out onto the shoulder and kicked out smiling huge. Now there is saltwater on my keyboard and stoke in my eyes.

Damn, i needed that! Thanks Dr. Goodvibes!

Ever wanted to see the process for how a blank gets machined into a surfable board? Check out this story from Surfing Magazine:

http://surfingthemag.com/surfing-photo-video/surfing-photo-dept/102805a/

that looks like a pretty small board for Mavs

working late so I can surf tomorrow! Yeeehaaaw

you must be bummed

First post for me. Been reading your reports for awhile. Surfed San Gregorio yesterday at 2-4 feet. Perfect little rights reeling with nice offshores. No one out. The place breaks amazingly about 1-2 times a year. Wish I could of shared with someone other than the big fish out there.

The good news in Blakestah's exodus is I that I move up higher in the sf surfer intelligence bell curve. The bad news is I'm still well left of the mean.