E's Surf Report

What, no posts?

I'm not allowed to post before 11:30. Doh! That's a post.

thanks e! we are exceeedingly lucky.
btw, have you read ken nunn's dogs of winter?

No waves today. We get fall for one week and it is over> Who remembers the old pier at South Sloat parking lot? WE had fall for 3 months...offshores and a perfect pier sandbar.

I worked at St Mary's Hospital for a couple years in the mid 90's. It was often difficult meeting the parents of child heart patients coming from different parts of the country. They were scared for their kids and scared of the city.

No kidding on that perspective, e. It's all about enjoying the small stuff, because..you know. Go Spiderman!

ha HA I was in the Dallas airport for 2 1/2 hours yesterday. Perchance were you guys in terminal, uh, D? 1 to 3:30. I surfed the food court and caught a decent sized sandwich. Whoop! I just named!

Donteatus Creek Today

I needed that little wake up jolt this morning. Thanks E. I think I'll take a long lunch and hit a rain run on Mt. Tam.

You sure that's Brazil, it looks like New Zealand........

stop dropping not-so-well-disguised names of semi local spots.

My girlfriend was a nurse in bone marrow transplant section at Stanford. The stories I'd hear from her really make me appreciate the 10 of years, or years, or weeks that I have left to run around and be merry. Going gently into that good night is frequently not an option; it's great to hear about people with great attitudes when their outlook is all they can really rely on.

I always laugh at the "Namers get owned" pic. I did today, but then felt bad that it wasn't a touched up photo.

No waves...sounds like the summer's Inflate-a-gator is gonna come outta hibernation. Let's hope my pneumatic reptile is prepared for the first big rainfall to wash all the sewerage outta the line. At leat it'll be landlord-free for a few tidal cycles.

huh huh violence is cool

thats Tunitas Creek

E-that was one of the best posts you have ever done. I was having a crappy day yesterday at work simply becuase I was feeling sorry for myself. Why? Because I didn't feel like I get enough credit for stuff and there is someone in my office that bugs me and blah, blah....Reading about that poor little guy...well, I am so blessed beyond proportion that I am really trying rid myself of the selfish, "life would be better if only..." syndrome. I am saying a prayer for that little Spiderman.

Just wanted to also remind those of you who want to get to know some of the more fatter surfers out there, reservations for the ano nuevo elephant seal tours can be made now, and pretty much need to be a whole lotta weeks in advance.

Elephant Seals

Brazil looks chilly and sharky. Yes please.

e is for "empathy." That's you, man.

crazy e, poor little dude..welcome back to the bay..didnt miss much

donteatus is semi local if your a great white cruising between seal rookeries. HA!

Having kids is not for sissies. Life is not fair and a good attitude and resiliance helps me us through the day. I'm in the national bone marrow database. I hope I can help that boy.

In other news...as of last night's meeting, the current plan is for the lots at Linda Mar and Rockaway will cost $2/day or $35 annually as of 1/1/06.

Surf was fun over the holiday. Couple of pretty good days and a few memorable waves. Surf on...

that doesn't really look like don't eat us. probably not today either. looks more like baja. I think dano is throwing us for a loop.

fun little trip to SB last weekend

bbr, is that campus? looks like that west angle pushed some fun ones through that narrow swell window.

I only knew of the pier from old-timer comments until I nearly hit one of the pilings as I was coming in from my session on Saturday. I've never seen those pilings before. I guess there was some beach scouring going on after the first storm of the season?

There are two hazards in the water at the south end. The wooden posts that hold in place the overflow pipe. When the sand moves out in spring and the tide is low, they stick up like spears. I got my leash tangled in them last year. Lucky for me the waves were only about 3 feet that day. The other is farther down the beach where the footings for the old pier were. They look like barrels filled with concrete. Thye too stick out quite a bit at very low tides. I'm surprised nobody has been seriously hut on either of those hazards.

Ravel's Bolero is pretty cool. need to learn it on guitar.

Of all of the beaches between HMB and SC, Donteatus is probably one of the last to worry about crowd factors. Come on, it's in plain view of Hwy 1 for about 1/2 mile and I've seen a total of about 12 surfers out there total over the last ten years of driving the coast several days a week for work. NEVER seen a crowd, and never will. Remember, surfers are lazy bastards. Even on the remote possibility that this place is ever good, there are 10 places nearby that will have similar conditions and don't require rappelling down a cliff. Get over it - the pic's not even of Donteatus, and it's not like he mentioned the names of one of the other "secret spots" at well posted State beaches that are also higly visible from the road.

Anyone know how I can get in contact with one of the posters here named "rza".

Email me;
obtube at yahoo dot com

Xcuse me while the brain drifts....Bolero.... Airplane/White Rabbit/Spencer Dryden(RIP)...Fillmore...Bill Graham...Greensleeves

Today's jam...Bolero to White Rabbit to Greensleeves.

nice one kdalle.

i love Coltrane's Greensleeves.

half-pipe in Iraq

Hey, can anyone pass on a water quality link? Lost it/them off this computer. With all this rain I'm curious...

And yes it has been raining all day at the beach.

Stanley Clark does a mean version of Bolero.

Rain and fickleness. Transport me to Hawaii please. Checked the contest stuff recently to see Pancho Sulivan will be WCT next year. Bobby Martinez also... Martinez riding backside on right pointbreaks is pretty amazing.

Here's the water quality link:

http://www.earth911.org/waterquality/default.asp?beach_id=49&cluster=3

yeah.. pancho and martinez are in there. Brett Simpson made a big run at the end of the QS and sits 20th now.. he might make it too. I think his dad played safety for the Rams. He's from huntington beach.

We have a winner... yes Baja. Not as many white-suited locals there too.

is that OJ's son? nice bottom turn anyway. go cali. my friend claims he saw bobby martinez surf ob once..

Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Well, here I sit in Barcelona, one of the most amazing places in the world (except for Florence, right Amy?) Tonight Jon and I are going to a snowboarding movie premiere called 91 words for snow. Should be rad. Should Also be a late night. The show doesn't start until 12am and ends at 5am. Geez. Things are definitely different here. People go home and go to sleep at about 6-7am, when most of us are used to waking up. We're enjoying it though. We've been having an amazing time skating all over the city. You can't help but become inspired while staying here. Everywhere has some kind of architecture or huge mural on a wall. Art is everywhere. It's great. We already got to visit the Dali museum, and see a lot of Gaudi's work in Park Guell. Well, I just wanted to email everyone to wish all of you a Happy Thanksgiving. Jon and I celebrated by buying a little roasted chicken from the super market, and had some sangria, and panettone for desert. Couldn't be any better considering the circumstances. Well I hope everyone is doing great. I love you all, and look forward to seeing everyone!

Happy Thanksgiving!
Love,
Ian

bobby martinez claims he ate a bagel once. HA!

Was he here when the qualifying tour came through SF 10 years or so ago. Some of those guys were impressive, others got whacked, the women coulnd't even get out. Young Shane Beschen and Chris Brown were real good. One year when it was pretty big the winner ended his final heat by rescuing a guy who decided to swim out to get a closer look...with no wetsuit on. Think his name began with M.

Hey Ian,

For some cheap fun go to the circuit de catayluna near barcelona this week. Formula One teams are doing winter testing through Friday. The cars are amazing machines to watch. you can't believe how fast they can corner and stop. You might even get lucky and see local hero and new F1 world champion Fernando Alonso.

son of a, i guess it was maybe 2 years ago when my friend relayed the story of a mexican looking guy surfing above and beyond any level of surfing he had seen at ob. than he saw a picture of martinez and ID'd him. i remember the days of the PSAA's at kelly's. I overheard kilani(?)robb say it reminded him of rocky point. sean monroe, an australian dude won it that year..and this guy from LA claimed he saw a shark in his semifinal heat, i didnt believe it..

i used to have a video of that psaa contest. it was a classic. i wish i could watch it now.

I was once in the water within earshot of Bobby Martinez. The waves were small and pretty non-existant. Mostly I remember him yelling and screaming a lot and goofing w/friends but didn't see him ride a single wave. He had a huge O emblazoned across his chest.

Yeah Ian,
That Park Guell has got to be one of the most macking places in Europe, insane local and not so local talent flowing there! Enjoy.

http://www.endlessindo.com/one-palm.html
Yes please! 70 secs + how many barrels?

I just bought a digi-tech rp200. having lots of fun with all the tones variables. it's amazing how some warm fat distortion, compression, flange and a bit of echo, can mask the most ham fisted technique ever.

Brain drift again in response to the Guitar Player cover...

Gary Usher did some of the music. He co-wrote "In My Room" with Brian Wilson....

hope all had lots of good food and good friends
over the weekend. scored a few thumpers in
the south bay (l.a. south bay) with Hb.

thanks for the tour dude.

talked to a guy in the water there and he called
it "drop surfing" as it was a drop and getting
drilled OR a drop, a turn and THEN getting drilled.

funny how 63 degree water can seem like
bathwater....

nice post today e.
thanks for making us thankful.

Thanks artifact - that video is sweeeeeeet

I hate pefect waves!

That video is outta control.

i was also down south last week and pretty much scored everywhere i stopped. warm weather, plate glass, warmer water and great camping.

bbr, i saw all kinds of goodness in sb over the weekend. that place has soo many spots! and this is THE place to go for those who want to romance their woman a bit while getting some good surf in.

and korewin, i can attest to those slammers in la. i took beatings on par with ob, saw numerous broken boards, and even saved a girl who got sucked out in a rip!

i'm glad to hear that I wasn't the only one who got it good last week.

that tube vid is from the movie "second thoughts". bunch of so-cal guys who go live on an island for a month and whine about how feral they are, and how hardcore it is, like they were forced out there with no food.

They surf great and get some very good waves, but pathetic/whiny story from some spoiled OC guys.

"We are so 'core'. it is so gnarly out here, with no food or water, and we killed a goat just to stay alive, it is so rough. WHAAAAA!!"

nice review tt

but that head cam shot at the end is a must see..

agreed. best part of that vid for me. glad i didnt buy it.

i have to vent:

"it is so hot out here, people just dont understand, it is hot, it is humid, it is gnarly, we dont have water, we dont have food, it is so feral here" -assume cool-guy semi-snarled-upper-lip too, for emphasis.

kdalle, that was Mike Cruikshank (now Gotcha's Marketing Director) that rescued a swimmer in the final heat of the PSAA at OB. He won it. I think it was '88 or '89. All I remember is that it was 12 feet and I couldn't believe that anyone could duckdive waves like that and make it out. I was blown away. It was full top to bottom barrels, offshore, and firing.

kinda like this?

LOL - you can't escape it!

Never mind Donteatus Creek, how about Dontshootus Road

My cousin raised a kid, and did a fantastic job. The kid was one of the best and brightest. He ended up a scholar athlete in college, and went on to first year law school. Due to a freak accident he became a quadraplegic, and died a month later. Complete tragedy for the family.

An old girlfriend was a social worker for a children's hospital in Atlanta. She worked with the families of children who mostly would not ever make it out of the hospital. I never could have done that. She felt she was helping people deal with their loss, and became very good at it. She was a better person than I.

Holy Fuck: One Palm!!! Dreamy

re: one palm clip and second thoughts... this movie just plain rules. barrel after barrel after barrel. i barely notice the guys talking for all the gorgeous waves. worth a watch, certainly worth putting on the second monitor while at work ; )

I want to take the girlfreind away for a weekend. I also want to get some surf in. Any suggestions? sb is alittle too far away, over 5 hr drive.

Hey weekend getaway there is a place called Costanoa about 20 minutes south of Half Moon Bay. Its relatively inexpensive, great for hiking and chilling with the chick and the waves around there can be super good. Only downside is sometimes it can be a lot of families.

www.costanoa.com

Word.