« life | Main | confidence »

booming

Large, powerful, growling.
Excellent wind.
Paddle-out denials.
Lurching, arcing slabs.
Overhead behemoths.
Emptiness.
Smooth, tantalizing sections.
Breaks in the onslaught.
Keyholes in the mayhem?
Grueling paddle-out.
Ridiculous close-outs.
Perfect for those who enjoy winter-style, oversized solitude.
Might be fantastico through certain zones toward the end of the day.
All you flexi-workers, non-workers and extendo-lunchbreakers suck sucking suckables.
Hammonds maybe?
Particular coves and pocket beaches a few hours away?
Might be worth the drive?

Whack those whacking whackables
whack

Lounging
niceness

fun!
niceness

When i go through stretches of no surf (currently 6 days) the music takes over. I just want to say Thank you John Coltrane!
Coltrane
coltrane

frist chitb

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 10:03 AM

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 10:11 AM

third post

Posted by: blakestah at November 30, 2005 10:20 AM

Its surfable and here I'm laid up with fever, sore throat, body aches, etc.

Oh well that is the way the virus mutates.

Posted by: duncan at November 30, 2005 10:21 AM

blakestah you'd like it out there today.

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 10:23 AM

Posted by: namers and claimers get owned at November 30, 2005 10:26 AM

From out of the blue - blakestah arrives. How's things in Montana?,St Louis?, Manhatten? - wherever the heck you are?

Posted by: Dennis at November 30, 2005 10:26 AM

how's that water quality?

Posted by: burnt at November 30, 2005 10:28 AM

WTF, where was everone. I went out for one wave (time limitations) on the south side. Like a good steak out there, thick, juicy and smooth as butter.

Other news... eff Pacifica. I was wrong. The staff recommended a single fee for the lots. The City Council rejected the staff recommendation and is seeking state approval for a two-tiered fee where residents pay $25 annually and non residents will pay $75 annually. The daily charge will be $2 for all. The bogus part of this is that the vast majority of the $ will go to hiring rangers and paying cops to patrol the lots.

Posted by: kdalle at November 30, 2005 10:28 AM

huh huh chicks with blood huh huh

Posted by: bevith at November 30, 2005 10:29 AM

Off work so I can wait out the huge morning tide and crowds. Looks so good out there. Picked up a new board last night and a fresh swell.

Checked out a museum that was tearing down its parking garage that had tons of graffiti and art in it. Sad. Lotsa Margaret Kilgallen art too which was very cool to see first hand. Here are some pics...

Posted by: Hb at November 30, 2005 10:29 AM

Sorry Kdalle, 8:30 Job interview, for a senior position here at work.

Thought briefly about surfing at dawn, rolling in for the interview in a surfed-out, relaxed disposition.

Then I remembered all those tales of post-sessional drip at inopportune times.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 30, 2005 10:45 AM

watching the women's sunset contest. the announcing is horrible! does anyone know if it's single elimination. if so, that is lame because the waves aren't working well right now.

wish i was going surfing today.

Posted by: steamwand at November 30, 2005 11:01 AM

Blakestah-How are you? Sucks not having your reports up anymore. Hope you are enjoying your new surroundings.

Posted by: Kelp at November 30, 2005 11:08 AM

Some bombs out there. Is it worth testing the water quality firsthand? I doubt it. Not after those heavy rains--perhaps there's a spot with less raw runoff.

Posted by: amigoism at November 30, 2005 11:13 AM

Posted by: namers and claimers get owned at November 30, 2005 11:15 AM

I was walking through the Arboretum yesteday afternoon with the Ipod.. podcasting a sick set of KPOO Coltrane. Real nice. Best invention of the 21st century... the Ipod

Posted by: Mexi at November 30, 2005 11:23 AM

Hey nicenessss.

Jonesin' for some water time. I'm thinking about heading out to Portugal to do some investigating on some long empty reef stretches. I've decided to pull my date to Australia closer. My train pass runs out Dec. 25th, so I'd have a few weeks of doing more nothing. Hard to believe, but sitting around eating chocolate, drinking coffee, and drawing all day is getting kinda boring. Just kidding, we've been getting a lot of skating in, but still. Waaah waaah..

Ethan. Great post yesterday. It made me smile. Big time. We lost my Grandpa on Thanksgiving night. He's in a better place now, and will be in an even better place soon. He wanted his ashes spread at sea. He was a merchant marine at the age of 16 (he and his parents faked his age so he could get in). It's difficult dealing with a loss while away from the family, but luckily I have my best friend with me, a phone is always close by, and obviously internet makes it easy to write back and forth with the family. Although it's a very difficult goal, try to smile every day. Not over anything specific, just smile. Life's too precious not to. I'm not saying don't get mad, that's impossible, but sometimes, it's possible to smile at your anger. Sorry if that sounds all hippy to you aggro heads, but taking a few things here and there from different religions can be healthy, even if you aren't religious.

So, an empty beach today? Wasn't something like 75% of the blog complaining last week about crowds? It's still out there. Right? Sooo.. Anyone want to come out to Oz to meet? The game plan: Rent a camper RV type thing. Drive along the coast and surf when we good waves.


nice


Would you go? The sand's about 5 ft. below.


Not a very close shot, sorry

Posted by: Ian at November 30, 2005 11:33 AM

Lord's of Dogtown: possibly worst movie ever made. can't believe i rented that piece of shit.

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 11:33 AM

ok one more..

Posted by: Ian at November 30, 2005 11:36 AM

yo mexi,
caught you naming the apple product
i totally agree that mp3 players are great inventions ... however other mnanufacturer's products can be superior in many ways.

Posted by: snake at November 30, 2005 11:40 AM

Ian, sorry about your gpa. wish i could join you on the oz trip!

Dwarves tonight!



Posted by: lerm at November 30, 2005 11:44 AM

this is our time bros!

Posted by: stacy peralta sucks at November 30, 2005 11:46 AM

I named the aroretum to... DOH

Posted by: Mexi at November 30, 2005 11:47 AM

If anyone is using the new lock box fin system, be warned you have got to tighten them screws down hard, and often. they loosen and if you surf with the screw loose it will shatter the glass around the boxes.

Posted by: Mexi at November 30, 2005 11:49 AM

Yeah, dogtown was awful.

There are other MP3 players that could be as good but its the Ipod marketing that changed the way people listen to music.

Posted by: tucker at November 30, 2005 11:49 AM

Nice pics Ian. Yeah man. You gotta get some waves. Sure did look pretty out there this am. Wish I had the energy for it.

Good for you kdalle - Leader Of The Pack! vroom vroom.

Posted by: Dennis at November 30, 2005 11:51 AM

Nices Shots Ian... Keep on moving don't stop..

Posted by: Mexi at November 30, 2005 11:54 AM

Where was everyone this morning? I pussied out like the rest. I was hoping someone would be out there to help motivate me. It was offshore with some nice looking sets coming through on the south side. I wonder if the water temp in the morning is keeping people away b/c it looked rather large, but not so huge for the beach to be empty.

Posted by: this mornin at November 30, 2005 11:55 AM

i watched some really nice ones at sloat this morning with zero people out. looked really fun. i didnt have my car and couldnt fit my board in this tiny 2 seater otherwise i might have braved the COLD. wondered why there were no takers. i did see one guy at noriega as i drove to work. yeah that was N O R I E G A, namers get owned guy, if that was you out there sorry to crowd the line up.

Posted by: dsx at November 30, 2005 12:05 PM

Took two weeks to get broadband started...I can only see one wireless network from where I sit...different. No work for another month. Buoy makes it look like fun today...get some. All is well here.

Posted by: blakestah at November 30, 2005 12:14 PM

I'm claiming poo-water this am.

Posted by: searoom at November 30, 2005 12:23 PM

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 12:34 PM

Going there this weekend with the girlfriend. Any reccomendations on places to stay that are reasonably priced on the beach. I was think manresa beach, but anywhere where there is a fairly consistent wave will do just fine.

Posted by: monterey at November 30, 2005 12:49 PM

Maybe it was your board, Mexi, and shouldn't call a company out for just your bad luck.

I got lockbox on my fishy. Last week i ripped off a fin and i checked the boxes and glass around it and not one spider crack. Either the boxes are strong or me double glassing the bottom.

Okay. I'm off to lowtide jetty.

Posted by: Hb at November 30, 2005 12:50 PM

bethany hamilton just beautifully surfed a BIG sunset wave. wow! one arm and like 15 yrs. old and surfs so much better than me. oh well.

Posted by: steanwand at November 30, 2005 12:52 PM

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 12:59 PM

Yah, "Lords of Dogtown" = POS -- so bad it almost cancels out the greatness of "Dogtown and Z Boys." Almost.

Posted by: Monkey Milk at November 30, 2005 01:02 PM

I did my research on the lock Box Fins, when the fins shake they will rip the box out because they can "creat enough momentum" especially on theose huge fishy fins, the company recomends that you keep them tight and check them frequently. On a good note the boxes are super strong and won't break easil;y.

Posted by: Mexi at November 30, 2005 01:22 PM

Steamwand - I saw that ride. Too bad she didn't get a second wave. Even a mediocre one would have given her a win.

Posted by: Dennis at November 30, 2005 01:38 PM

I'm not a fan of the dogtown guys (though I was at the time, and like many considered Tony Alva a god), and I cringed harder than anyone when "Z Boys" came out with all the teary eyed self eulogizing blathering, but in "Lords" I couldn't believe how good those actors could skate pools, and with the full 70s style too. The POP pier surfing sequences were really authentic looking too, the classic boards from the time and again totally nailing the period riding style. Otherwise I agree the movie was kinda boring and went nowhere.

Posted by: another opinion at November 30, 2005 01:38 PM

Great mid morning sesh - it was classic winter ob out there today. Big offshore groomed mountains breaking a long way out. Paddle wasn't too bad. bloody cold tho.

Managed to snap my leash when I was caught napping by very large sweeper. Oh well - swim in was fun.

Must have been less than 20 guys out on the whole beach. what crowding problem?! The usual nice self regulation of big ob winter...ahhh perfect day.

Posted by: ankors at November 30, 2005 01:50 PM

steamwand-
was on kauai last week for thanksgiving
killer sets flooding the northside
saw bethany ripping at pine trees
amazing grace

Posted by: snake at November 30, 2005 02:07 PM

Ok, it's been posted before, but it's a classic. The exploding whale now on Google video.

Posted by: dano at November 30, 2005 02:32 PM

that is so unreal, she is so unreal. Bethany must awe everyone she sees in the water..friggen shark ATE HER ARM OFF

Posted by: hard to process at November 30, 2005 02:35 PM

i just bought a nano for my lady. the marketing
is over the top efffective but also remember that
ipods come with really easy software. THAT changes
everything. so free, easy and name recognition.
much like sony's walkman. i think i had about a
dozen versions of those things from 82 > ? (now).
shit i probably still have one in a drawer....

how is the water out there?
seems like the motor oil and dog shit factor have
gotta be sky high. yummy ecoli and valvoline...

Posted by: korewin at November 30, 2005 02:35 PM

So many people passed today.
Good on ya.
You made the right decision.
As did those of us that paddled out.

A bit undergunned was I.

I know something's wrong when my board is shorter than the one Alex Martens is riding.

The others on their 8'0" guns telling me my 7'6" bonzer is wide enough or has enough volume to paddle in to 'em.

And it was that on the few that broke near where I was sitting.

As long as none of the other guys where near enough to paddle me out of position.

Sets were infrequent enough or shifty enough that people did not want to let any slip through their grasp.

Would have liked some more length on my stick to track down the peaks.

Fun, but a bit crowded. I knew by sight 80% of the people out, and they all are good surfers.

Hooded 5-4, booties, and I was not hot.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 30, 2005 02:56 PM

did you nab any solid ones F1?

Posted by: e at November 30, 2005 03:11 PM

Oh yeah, some nice big drops.

Mostly felt like an icebreaker session, or something like that.

You know, a tast of what's to come.

Didn't surf as well as I would have liked, but did respectable on the ones I got. I was more surviving the session than driving the session.

Except for the faceplant drop I pulled on one where the cross-chop monster got me. Luckily, I penetrated fast and ended up diving under the wave and out the back.

Really, when you are out with 6 very good big wave surfers, you have to step up your game. I did just OK with that today.

I would have felt more comfortable on my bigger board, and maybe more able to run with the wolves.

Fall is over.

Welcome to Winter.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 30, 2005 03:19 PM

wow ,that sure tasted good out there today.nice thick sick country bread,with a buttery breeze touching our slicey nicey favorite on-sticks.
nothing better than a suprise surf day.makes you feel like any day can be christmas.mazoltov.

Posted by: mangi at November 30, 2005 03:24 PM

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 03:25 PM

spain, the new france

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 03:32 PM

I LOVE WINTER
Water was real dirty where I was today.

Posted by: toneman at November 30, 2005 03:38 PM

My leash snapped today at *****s ****t.
Reminds me that I must replace my leashes at least every 5 years or so.
Swimming in large chunky waves was a ball anyway.
Nice to have the 5/4/3/hooded suit.When I finally found it my 8 year old 7-10 was wedged in a crevace about 5 feet above the set waves.
the kelp must have cushioned the impact only one new small ding.
Would have been nice to have a photo of my cliff/rock/set wave scramble.Probably looked like I was being swept of the rocks.

Posted by: toneman at November 30, 2005 03:39 PM

Argh. i'm too much of a wuss for winter. Bring back the small waves with offshores please.

Posted by: e at November 30, 2005 03:50 PM

15 yr old alana blanchard just beat the world champ to qualify for the finals at sunset-- the future is now

Posted by: snake at November 30, 2005 03:52 PM

and carissa moore ain't even surfin in the contest. they said she's in school. the new school of girls is gonna be rippin.

blanchard's interview earlier was hysterical. someone needs to hook her up with a little p.r. coaching. listen to that "no" giggle giggle. guess she's still a kid.

Posted by: steamwand at November 30, 2005 03:57 PM

ballard is really poised. anyone ever surfed with her? she seems like a cool lady.

Posted by: steamwand at November 30, 2005 03:59 PM

commentary sucks on the ASP site

Posted by: toneman at November 30, 2005 03:59 PM

so nice to see clear blue-green sunset after 55 degree filthy water today

Posted by: toneman at November 30, 2005 04:01 PM

A summer's worth of SUV poo in the drink today. yippie.

just got back from Amsterdam. Very bike friendly. No fat-fuck mobiles in sight. Weed shops around every other corner.

Posted by: acctnut at November 30, 2005 04:05 PM

The blast blasted blubber beyond all believable bounds.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 30, 2005 04:32 PM

news just came on saying two surfers plucked (alive) from OB today. hope it was none of the niceness crew....but if it was dammit i want a story!

Posted by: j at November 30, 2005 05:01 PM

It was the bridge and tunnel brigade.

filthy SUV poo...mmmmmm good!

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 05:23 PM

Alameda, Calif. - The Coast Guard rescued two surfers this afternoon at Ocean Beach in San Francisco.

Coast Guard Station Golden Gate recovered one surfer from the water. The surfer was transported back to the station where he was examined by an EMT but refused any further assistance.

Air Station San Francisco airlifted a second surfer from off the top of Seal Rock, located on the north end of the Ocean beach. The helicopter then transported the surfer to the beach.

No injuries were reported for either surfer. The National Park service and the San Francisco Fire Department had alerted the Coast Guard to the stranded surfers.


OFF THE TOP OF SEAL ROCK!!! That's harder than just swimming in.

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 05:26 PM

if you were getting sucked north and you knew it was too late to paddle in to the beach would you grab onto seal rock or float all the way around the corner to china beach? or maybe try to make it in at sutro baths?? risky.

Posted by: e at November 30, 2005 05:28 PM

that happend a year or two ago to two guys.
I could laugh but you'd have to be in a pretty bad place (as previouslly pointed out) to resort to scaling Seal Rock.
Imagine all the bird sh$t!

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 05:32 PM

ocean beach scene this afternoon - a dude wearing a black hoody crawls on his hands and knees abut 200 yards across the sand to the water, slowly crawls in up to his chest, and sits there, presumably slowly freezing to death. yes! that oh so upfull ocean beach vibe! (various people watched, including me. as we started to reach for cellphones, he slowly crawled out)

Posted by: J at November 30, 2005 05:32 PM

I was wondering what that was. Saw the 3 helis at north end with spotlights just before sunset. Lots of current.

Still really fun. Extra low tide made some top to bottom explosions. gray and glassy. duckdiving through white soup with a little yellow/brown froth on top. yum. I think size is down a bunch from earlier. Definitely a nice suprise.

Posted by: Walker at November 30, 2005 05:33 PM

thats rad!

Posted by: bagel at November 30, 2005 05:56 PM


Posted by: namers and claimers get owned at November 30, 2005 05:57 PM

i wonder how many humans have been on that rock? there is so much bird shit on that thing!

Posted by: bagel at November 30, 2005 05:58 PM

hahahaha, the news just had something on a different rescue. apparently a boogie boarder 500 yards offshore, jetskis came and got him, when they got him to shore he took off running! trying to save himself the embarassment of being on the news?

Posted by: j at November 30, 2005 06:15 PM

There's a tunnel thru the rock too... Fun tonight, I'm starting to get into shape again, feeling like a youngster these days.

Posted by: Mexi at November 30, 2005 06:31 PM

i'd rather be the booger who surfed than the guy posting about him.....where were you?

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 06:35 PM

Any you studs wanna come over?

Posted by: Agnes at November 30, 2005 06:43 PM

that is pretty heavy. I would rather float around the corner and try to come in somewhere else. It is good for novice boogie boarders to have near-death experieces at OB and never get back in the water. Less speed bumps.

Posted by: sd rider at November 30, 2005 06:44 PM

does j charge?

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 06:51 PM

J for President!

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 06:59 PM

With Kaiser gone, will there be no more bikini shots? A concerned lurker.

Posted by: TSM at November 30, 2005 07:02 PM

I think Agnes might like sheep.

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 07:07 PM

Friend #1 better sleep with one eye open. With all his claiming today (and name dropping) he is probably gonna get owned.

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 07:26 PM

Climb on me? I will OWN YOU! Now helicopter off before I CLAIM YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: The Rock at November 30, 2005 08:01 PM

J would have paddled his board up the rock and surfed down it like a skateboarder.

Posted by: at November 30, 2005 08:13 PM

I'll side with mexi on the Lokbox screws. I tighten mine before every session and there's always a little looseness there to get rid of. I'm thinking of getting Red-X on my next board.

Posted by: steve at November 30, 2005 10:00 PM

Ignorance is Bliss.

Posted by: friend #1 at November 30, 2005 10:13 PM

We don't stress on people who say they need less board than skinny little Alex. Everyone can recognize his ignorance.

Posted by: namers get owned at November 30, 2005 10:29 PM

Friend#1 can sleep tight after his drunken' posting. We think he rules!

Posted by: namers get owned at November 30, 2005 10:47 PM

www.fleshlight.com

Feels just like the real thing without all the nagging.

Posted by: Pussy in a Can at November 30, 2005 10:56 PM

"does j charge?"

nah, i pay cash for everything (remember, i AM an SUV driving, dotcom tranny kook)

Posted by: j at December 1, 2005 10:55 AM
Post a comment

Thanks for signing in, . Now you can comment. (sign out)

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)


Remember me?