E's Surf Report

stop frist

BritneySpears14: Ok, are you ready?

eminemBNJA: Aight, yeah I'm ready.

BritneySpears14: I like your music Em... Tee hee.

eminemBNJA: huh huh, yeah, I make it for the ladies.

BritneySpears14: Mmm, we like it a lot. Let me show you.

BritneySpears14: I take off your pants, slowly, and massage your muscular physique.

eminemBNJA: Oh I like that Baby. I put on my robe and wizard hat.

BritneySpears14: What the f*ck, I told you not to message me again.

eminemBNJA: Oh ****

BritneySpears14: I swear if you do it one more time I'm gonna report your ISP and say you were sending me kiddie porn you f*ck up.

eminemBNJA: Oh ****

eminemBNJA: damn I gotta write down your names or something

e, I was thinking about yesterday's blog topic and came up with this tidbit. Maybe you should consider a big change, e.g. a move down to Santa Cruz, to break your funk.. Great local music scene down there and you could still do web stuff to pay the bills. Good surf too, I hear ;-)

Ethan - you da man. I just recently discovered your site, and I have to say I dig your reports man. You make it more of an art form than I feel I can get away with on mine...but I try :-)

"Verbal conflict is a waste of word, Physical conflict is a waste of flesh...."
-D.Marley

Hey bloodninja - go find another blog like entertainment tonight or EXTRA

damn i would like to surf backside like corey lopez in that pic. can anyone recommend any good vids with him in it?

i wish i could surf backside

e, put me down for a CD when they're avail for purchase.

disagree with steve. i would not move to s.c. it's burnt. everybody's pissed down there, maybe understandably. but it seems to me they have really benefitted from turning surf into an industry but also gotten fried by it because the water is so crowded now. i just recently decided that the town has a bad taste now, and i lived down there for years. i don't know. but i don't think moving down to s.c. is some novelle idea to break a funk. been done by way too many fools already. hence the problem. imho.

I lived in SC for a bit and hated it, but I was in the hills. I loved the mountains but I was too far from the beach and the people were a bit off to me. Maybe it was me though, I was younf and warped.

I posted a new page, not much though, a few shots of the Kelly's guys at a nice peak they found one morning. I've been surfing too much and haven't been shooting a whole lot.

right on justin. thanks for checking in. I've been to your surfpulse report many many times.

thanks for the thought steve but i'm whole-heartedly in agreement with steamwand. I can't stand the vibe down in Santa Cruz. It's truly a gifted, magical place in terms of surf setups.. maybe one of the best stretches on earth.. but the crowds, vibes, attitudes, stinkeye, entitled rippers, faux-thugs, pitbulls, intsa-crowds just turn me way off.. I like to make surgical strikes down there when necessary and hang with the J.O.C. but othwerise i try to steer way clear of Stinkeye Cruz. (San Clemente North). It gives me the willies just thinking about it. The place where every break is like FPers. Fun waves but anxiety-causing crowds. yikes.

E surprises Bagel during last weekend's Niceness slumber party

OK, maybe moving to SC is not the ticket. I think some kind of change can be good, though, for re-invigorating a person's outlook on life. A move, a kid, going back to school, changing a job, whatever.

totally agree steve. thanks dude.

Great! another free surf report for Ocean Beach
415-267-6999
I think it must be from some middle-of-the beach- guy.

O.K. I usually hate Happyfun owner claimer. But I smirked at that photo.

Bravo.

me too. doesn't the pie face guy have a boner. not that i know much about those things, but i think i heard something somewhere about a pie in the face fetish or something.

okay, now i'm nauseous. sorry i wrote that. e-can you delete it for me?

Santa Cruz people have Marin-guy attitudes. The only difference is that most of the Santa Cruz crowd rips!

I've never met so many people with such lame, self-centered cool-guy attitudes as I have in Northern California. Particularly people from Marin. most of them can barely surf too, but they think they rip.

To be honest, the people I meet in Orange County seem much cooler, a lot less 'tude. Most of you differ with this, I am fairly certain. The prevailing winds seem to always say that SoCal folks are lamer, my experience = the opposite.

surf on, beyatches!!!

Having a kid will change your outlook on life, but i cant say that it will improve your surfing much...

Oh, please, SC one of the best stretches on Earth for surf? That's like that idiot Sam George proclaiming California as the surf mecca of the world. ROFLMAO!

Santa Cruz - 20 pointbreaks within a 15 miles stretch. swell all year round. good winds. I'd say it's in the top 5 or 6 world-wide stretches for consistent, year-round quality surf.

i work in marin and used to surf up here often before **r* closeout became **r* crowdout and have never been vibed in the water. but really that is the only place i don't get vibed by all the stiffs up here. if you want stinkeye try parking in the strawberry village or corte madera town center/village parking lots. the sense of entitlement is palpable.

Thanks E for the session description. Educational.

I watched the Cream Reunion on KQED last night. Definately getting the dvd set this weekend. I had the home alone for the first 1/2 hour of the concert and my neighbors moved away so I "really" cranked up my stereo. If I had pictures on the wall the may have fallen off. It the loudest I ever played it and it held up amazingly well. I actually think more volume would have sounded even better.

Clapton is way better than he was with Cream. Ginger Baker played like an atomic clock. Jack Bruce lost a noticable amount of power in his voice but still sounded pretty good. He is smooth on the base too. I need to start practicing again.

"To be honest, the people I meet in Orange County seem much cooler, a lot less 'tude."

x2

"if you want stinkeye try parking in the strawberry village or corte madera town center/village parking lots. the sense of entitlement is palpable."

x2

USC or UCLA this weekend?

ok, e, we know you ain't that high right now, you ain't that high. Shit.

maybe you're right bloodninja.. what would you place as the top five coastal stretches for year-round quality surf?

Santa Cruz has swell year-round? cockamamie

I forgot to mention that the girls in the OC about 1000x hotter than the few good looking, non-large Marin chicks I've seen. (excluding Robin Wright Penn here, she is epic).

See www.shorescrew.com for backup info.

man, too many, but just go to Indo someday. Just go and you'll see what I mean. Indo has got all 5 of the top surf stretches.

Proof that socal chicks rock...or maybe not...is this hot??:

nice.. yeah i spent 2 months in Indo in 2001. Definitely some nice stretches, though i didn't get up to sumatra. But.. not that great in the off-season (hit or miss). and on the 5 islands i stayed only one had as many waves packed into such a small area as santa cruz.. and it was pretty crowded there too.

yeah.. i guess santa cruz is usually flat in the summer. But it seems more open to the souths than up here so i always think it's firing.

the only places i can think of off the top of my head with as many high-quality setups packed into a small area are the north shore of Oahu and Kauai, Bali, Maldives, Capetown, San Diego (La jolla and south), Mentawais?, Gold Coast, Margaret River area... probably more..

back to work!!! shit..

the one on the left is a manimal

SC used to be so fun, now, no thanks. I hope OB never gets to that point. Saw Walk the Line Sunday night. A must see only if you are a big Cash fan - decent, but not really memorable. If you are a little down and out, Q up "What do I care" written by Johnny in 1958.

North Coast, NSW.

That private stretch of california coastline near SB.

Q is refering to the Ranch where you need a $75K check to get in.

Definately not Cape Town but Hermosa near Lima yes... J-Bay

Namer Guy is going to go off...

both of em... just wouldn't be holding hands and shit.

Wrong, name it!, you just need a boat and some balls.
Too bad the Ranch is absolutely packed when the swell is 2'+, any day of the week. it isnt too epic.

My choices are: Byron Bay - Noosa area, NW Oz, certain parts of NZ, SW France, all of Portugal, and Durban!

Whoever thinks Indo isnt good in the offseason is drinking the kool-aid.

I'll bet that China has some INSANE surf, too bad that water is so damn polluted.

Wrong, name it!, you just need a boat and some balls.
Too bad the Ranch is absolutely packed when the swell is 2'+, any day of the week. it isnt too epic.

My choices are: Byron Bay - Noosa area, NW Oz, certain parts of NZ, SW France, all of Portugal, and Durban!

Whoever thinks Indo isnt good in the offseason is drinking the kool-aid.

I'll bet that China has some INSANE surf, too bad that water is so damn polluted.

Wrong, name it!, you just need a boat and some balls.
Too bad the Ranch is absolutely packed when the swell is 2'+, any day of the week. it isnt too epic.

My choices are: Byron Bay - Noosa area, NW Oz, certain parts of NZ, SW France, all of Portugal, and Durban!

Whoever thinks Indo isnt good in the offseason is drinking the kool-aid.

I'll bet that China has some INSANE surf, too bad that water is so damn polluted.

i really love those black roots and nice big nose on the manimal...Socal chicks are so friggin hot...

Whoops, sorry, I didnt mean to post that more than once. damn cable modem. sorry.

yeah and Blink 182 is great music; dude, you were made for Orange County

They'd probably both look better without the makeup and bad dye jobs. They have teeth. I like women with teeth.

China as a surf destination? Hainan Island, the "Hawi'i" of China is about as close as it comes to decent surf. And it's real bad. And Taiwan? A couple years of serious scrounging there made me lond for a good day at Sunset Point, Pacific Palisades. (Rule Check- any spot named in a Beach Boys song is open game, consult your bloggers rulebook)
Sounds like a whole lot of armchair guessing going on...

damn paparazzi..

was in Byron Bay - Noosa area for a few weeks in oct. 1999 and got pretty skunked. the same thing could certainly happen if you came to SC in august. but (eject most of the people) and i think i would take the region from sc county line through pp over alot of other stretches to be permenantly stuck. i mean, north shore kauai is incredible, but totally flat in the summer.

$100 says that bloodninja has never crossed the border and probably isn't old enough to vote.

i want to go to all of the places that mexi has. that is my only goal in life.

Now I know what my problem is.

I'm a tranny from Orange County.

Westminster/Garden Grove Represent.

I mentioned how cool SC was to an old surfer pal who has done all over Oz and Hawaii and Indo and done a year world travel surf trip and he just laughed his butt off. He said there are dozens and dozens of areas with more better point breaks and more consistent surf and winds, so much better that SC is really laughable in a worldwide context...

But super cool in the context of someone who lives in SC, SM, or SF counties.

Hey! There he is again! Just like Elvis.

little help: does anyone know the sitch on the weekends lately at the deyoung (NAMER!)? i know if was a zoo at opening but has it chilled out. i'm headed there on sunday and trying to decide if i need to buy tickets online in advance. they make you buy for a certain time and i'd rather be able to be flexible around my surf session. any advice appreciated: what to see, ect.

sc bashing whatever... it was definately better to surf here(sc,sm,sf) 20-30 years ago then it is now. and i can hear someone off in the distance already telling me that it was even better 40 and 50 years ago. prolly DUKE would tell ya; "hey brah you shoulda been here yesterday."

Hey that Fanning at off the wall vid on surfline is the SHIT. fucking A that boy can ride the barrell.

went over the border many times, old enough to drink, lived in nor cal for 7 years. Do I qualify? Am I legit?

Legend of Bloodninja

OH GO ON Blabstah!
Whatever.
These niceness guys seem bent on wanting to expose everything - I don't think it enters their minds that all the naming and claiming might actually have an attitudinal impact on the local surfing population. Ask guru Massara if a Coastal Impact Study was ever done. A study examing surfing population trends on our local econmy and resident infrastructure.
E would last maybe a week before some SC thugs came a knokin' on his front door; complexities of a pluralism in juxtopisition w/local dichotomy vs. a need to remain secret, which of course it never will be again. Ocean Beach IS WHAT SHE IS. No amount of forecasting will ever change her moods. On one day and off the next. Get a life. Move on.

just a lurker jumping in on the SC debate.

I gotta say that it is pretty rare for any stretch of coast to pick up both Winter and Summer swell well with consistent offshores. Maybe Indo, but even Australia in their summer relies on cyclones...

Oh the wimpies are whining again.

3to5 - agreed. I just watched Fanning get more barrel time in on clip then I get in a year - maybe two.

steamwand - I'm an inner sunsetter and last weekend was mob scene but generally if you go early morning or late afternoon during the weekend it should be ok. I'd recommend getting the membership though cause you are going to want to go back and it let's you strut right in...

Okay, now let's all focus this discussion to exactly and specifically WHERE better pointbreak territory is out there in the world, so that we can get busy here and make it more like both the SCs.

Niceness rocks...BVB rolls

OB surfer in need of some good suggestions on house rentals near Kihei.

email off-blog at DonGorgon (at) google (dot) com

so is wetsern oz worth the trek? if I'm going that far should I just go to indo?

I think that SC is in the top 10, but with the crowd factor, it is no longer on the chart.

Earthquake retrofit this weekend, Oh joy.

Wedding in Guadelajara Jalisco Next weekend, fun

Peru and Chile the following week, mixed feelings

Rio New Years

I need a vacation

sorry bloodninja! of course you're legit. i guess was just a little thrown off by the random britney postings.

wanna meet at the beach tomorrow so i can give you your $100? bring your i.d. and stamped passport.

DAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nice to see ya postin' here my brother!
EAT A CHEESESTEAK FOR ME!

For me, in my particular situation, Santa Cruz is rarely worth the drive, and never worth the crowd. I'm less bothered by the attitude than I used to be. I grew up surfing waves of attitude from Swami's to Sunset Cliffs. I just ignore it, and/or move on to the next spot.

Noosa has a series of great setups, but all the points are UNBELIEVEABLY crowded, with that uniquely Aussie competitive vibe when there's any kind of a swell.

Playa Hermosa and the other Lima spots are also very good, but some of the filthiest water ever; there were visable turds, used condoms and dead puppies in the lineup when we were there a couple of years ago.

Bali has even more great setups than end up in the magazines and videos. But unless you can sneak out one of it's secrets, you better be ready to do battle with hordes of Aussie teenagers who rip waaaaaaaaaaay harder then you and will do anything to be sure to get their "Indo Holiday" barrels.

Don't get me wrong from the above, I like Australians. I've had some of the funnest, mellowest surfs ever with small bunches of Aussie's in less well known places. It's just that a lot of them grow up surfing in the huge Australian amateur contest scene (it's like Little League is in the States) and it seems to sometimes bleed into their free surfing later on.

anybody seen Green Day's "Bullet in a Bible" DVD yet? thoughts?

Interesting view of a familiar spot....but I'm not supposed to name...right?

e-I am so effing old. I have no idea who those artists are that you dropped.

BTW, I love surfing in Santa Cruz when it's big and the setup ain't right here....

C'mon Jimmy everyone knows Humpty

Humpty artifact

Humpty -

You look like MC Hammer on Crack!

Packets?

Anybody got any packets?

nah, you can keep the $100. i'm not in the mood to get mobbed by internet bloggers. hospital bills would cost more than $100.

Bloodninja: I lick your earlobe, and undo your watch.

Sarah19fca: mmmm, okay.

Bloodninja: I take yo pants off, grunting like a troll.

Sarah19fca: Yeah I like it rough.

Bloodninja: I smack you thick booty.

Sarah19fca: Oh yeah, that feels good.

Bloodninja: Smack, Smack, yeeeaahhh.

Bloodninja: I make some toast and eat it off your ass. Land O' Lakes butter all in your crack. Mmmm.

Sarah19fca: you like that?

Bloodninja: I peel some bananas.

Sarah19fca: Oh, what are you gonna do with those?

Bloodninja: get me peanuts. Peanuts from the ballpark.

Sarah19fca: Peanuts?

Bloodninja: Ken Griffey Jr. Yeaaaaahhh.

Sarah19fca: What are you talking about?

Bloodninja: I'm spent, I jump down into the alley and smoke a fatty. I throw rocks at the cats.

Sarah19fca: This is stupid.

Bloodninja: Stone Cold Steve Austin gives me some beer.

Bloodninja: Wanna Wrestle Stone Cold?

Bloodninja: Yeeaahhhh.

Sarah19fca: /ignore

Bloodninja: Its cool stone cold she was a bitch anyway.

Bloodninja: We get on harleys and ride into the sunset.

Legend...or loser?

It's the weekend and I'm buying......Peace (piece) out!

Check this bartenderess if you want a drink http://www.collegehumor.com/pictures/sexual/1635881/

MC Hammer isn't even in the same league as Humpty... "He can't touch Humpty"

Digital Underground was the shit. Definately started something good and positive, it is unfortunate that the mass media gangsta rap thing pushed them and the others down and created a whole new pot of shit.

PaSICKifa opens officially on Sunday. wooohooo!

Lyrics to live by:

"My nose is big like a pickle"

"That's right girl I called you fat, look-a-me I'm skinny...."

Used to bug out and pop-lock like a frigging total idiot to that song as a kid, it was hilarious. Even did the worm. Walt Whitman's got nothin' on the poet laureate Humpty Hump.

-------------------------

SC has the most blessed combo of protection and swell exposure that I've ever seen. When a west swell hits the East Side...oh my God....crack-a-lack, it's magic (with 375 of yer closest chums). Shhh, it's a secret.

i concur mexi...DU was the shit. loved
those shows with shock g for the first half
and humpty for the second...

since e threw out a favorite rap tune....
i will too....

eric b and rakim > follow the leader.

rakim is out of hand. no gangstas
just HUGE rope chains and gucci warm ups.

Just quoting Humpty Hump Lyrics, Mexi.

No doubt the bomb 'dat.

Huuuuuump TEEEEEEEEE!

OH my god. LA County. Yesterday.

DU- Off the Hook back in the day.

For the now, Blackalicious lays it down fat these days.

Do this my Way is one of my favourite tracks -
off of Nia.

Gift of Gab, Lyrics Born.

Fabulous Ones is also a goodun offa that disk.

a bit of talk about oz in this top five string.

a tip from a home grown lad. australia doesnt rely on cyclone swells in summer. the southern ocean is active year around, and some beachies in victoria leave the reefs of sc way way behind in terms of wave quality and crowds. and then there are the reefs for winter. whatever. stay the fuck away.

Santa cruz would struggle to make it into my top 100 destinations, if at the moment i didnt live an hour or so away.

This blog actually does a service sometimes with the amount of disinformation disseminated. But I am beggining to think that BVB has the right idea after all. close every webcam and swell forecast site down, and the crowds will decrease. without a doubt.

remember when you used to have to watch the weather, and there was nothing else, to predict a surf? remember when you last found a spot on your travels that you hadnt looked up before on the internet, or found through some lame spendy surf travel outfit? remember when you travelled and a new straight and clean groundswell that started cracking during the night was a total surprise?

the only good thing about the way surfing has gone over the last decade, even longer I'd imagine if i were older, is that it has driven me to further and further destinations, just to avoid the gumby's that seem to have sprouted up at every bit of ocean facing coastline in the developed world...

One day though all these spots, perhaps all the spots, will be dissected and analysed by people on this and like lists that have probably not even left north america. armchair surfers in a day of DVD's and the internet. When that time comes it is going to be a sad day to call yourself a surfer.

Definitely a legend. Not in my own mind either.

jonno, thanks for setting the record straight. me and all my boys will now be moving to victoria. thank god for niceness.

jonno...is it webcams and internet data dissemination? Or is it that the population is increasing (mostly along coastal areas), wetsuits are way better (speaking from cold waterland), surfing is a blast...hmm

Good ideas grow...ever heard of memes?

Surfing will continue to grow and adapt and so will surfers. You have adapted by traveling. Here we adapt by spreading niceness.

MF doom/ victor vaughn is my favorite rapper these days. pretty much all other new hip hop, jay z, kayne west, black eyed peas, jaimie fox crap is so horrible. wu tangs still kind of got it..snoop is snoop and i have to say i kind of like 50, i dont know what you heard about me but you cant get a dolla outa me..good jam.

maybe i just wax lyrical about days of old. population growth is a mother fucker. but the surf population growth is an explosion. and I'm just as part of it as anyone in the water is. we'd all have to be grumpy mofo's if we were to not spread the stoke to anyone not yet into surfing. but what will we do when every spot is covered, a data feed plugged in for all of us? The chinese had a lot of people, and they put the brakes on with a couple of policy measures. Would it be in our interests to do the same?

and i'm not at all too worried about you guys getting to oz. at the moment there is enough to go around (plus i'm not there), and somehow i think a lot of you dream (which we all do), and the actual numbers making a move based on my suggestion that part of a length of australian coastline say 600 miles long has potential to recieve waves all year around will in fact be very few. if not, well, then you flatter me.

"...stay the fuck away"
"...blog actually does a service sometimes with the amount of disinformation disseminated"
"...looked up before on the internet, or found through some lame spendy surf travel outfit"
"...just to avoid the gumby's that seem to have sprouted up at every bit of ocean facing coastline in the developed world..."
"One day though all these spots, perhaps all the spots, will be dissected and analysed by people on this and like lists that have probably not even left north america. armchair surfers in a day of DVD's and the internet. When that time comes it is going to be a sad day to call yourself a surfer."

Wow jonno, you are soooooo cooooool.
Its so amazing how much farther above the rest of us you are. How's the view up there? Don't mind us little people who enjoy to surf but aren't nearly as coooooooooool as you. Remind me to stay away from the line-ups you frequent - wouldn't want to crimp your style.

Wake up dude - no one is above anyone else here. We all surf and enjoy it. And good luck on your crusade to stop the free, easy exchange of information and ideas called the internet. Were you the first surfer? Then shut up.

Last time I surfed, I had Poo point to myself for the first half-hour of Daylight. (yeah, I am claiming, the whole cove to my self). I remember seeing a Truck parked at the overlook. I caught a few, and soon I was joined by three dudes. They were nice enough to set up on the next peak down.

Just by Surfing, I was causing crowds. What can you do?

you are the crowd.

Wow, some interesting threads lately

1) confidence is key but good judgment is even better...know your limits
both in and out of the water.

2) E we've all been in the slump man, what separates us from stagnating is
the ability ( like you did yesterday) to express your pathos and to look for
solutions. keep looking its out there, and you are a very talented
individual. It took me until my 30's to find my niche. Also avoid making any
decisions when the surf sucks and its raining!!

3) lived in Marin for 3 years after being raised in the east bay and
although beautiful beyond belief its a fantasy land I can compare to the
biosphere of the Movie "Logans Run". And I agree that the people there are
entitled beyond belief.

4) last , the SC scene is so nauseating that despite having family roots
there I will never surf there again. The faux gangsterism demostrated by a
bunch of punks living in the most expesive real estate in the country is
pathetic. The fact that its promoted by the surf industry is even more
reason to boycott the major mags. By the way has anyone noticed the TSJ is
getting more like Surfer or Surfing with every issue?

5) Ozamatli tonite!

the internet is a fantasy world and blogs are a bathroom wall. im the new jesus! i claim all spots north of k-38 if you want to surf them send me a release form and ill see what i can do. heres the address:

your retarded

holiday party tonight, oh no

have a niceness weekend..

PS, that post was by me, antman!

DeYoung gets unbelieveably crowded on the weekends, 1/2 hour line to get in the door. The view from the tower is absolutely incredible.

Best wave in the world is the one you are on.

hip-hop worth checking:

Big Jus/Nephlim Modulation Sessions
-Woe to Thee O Land When Thy King Is a Child
'Brave New World' is an instant political classic!

Onry Ozborn
-Alone
'The Return of Bobby Fischer' what?! raps about chessmasters!!?

Aesop Rock
-Labor Days
'9-5ers Anthem' this one's for all of us!

THE NICENESS SHOW

"Hey everybody, big waves
are comin'!"

"According to my calculations,
a 310º long period well organized
ground based swell with remarkable
fetch. My robulating-hydrofluidizer
is highly recommended!"

"Oh no! Here comes BVB!"

"Did someone call my name?"

Stolen Surfboards!

1 - 6'5" RP Swallow Tail. White board w/ yellow lettering w/ leash.
1 - 6'8" RP Squash Tail. White board w/ blue lettering w/ leash (buckled and fixed, delaminating on deck at front foot - i don't care about this board really but maybe it will help catch the thief).
1- 7' FCS Board Bag.

I got two surfboards and a board bag stolen on Wednesday, 11/23/05, between 1-5 pm out of my garage near Masonic and Geary. The theif also stole my neighbors bike and rode off with the boards in hand we believe.

Very good chance he/she is not a surfer but may try to sell to surfers in a parking lot, craigslist, etc. or surf shops.

Please call the police asap or myself asap if you are approached by anyone or see my boards for sale.

Please call Brandon @ 415.286.1063 or email bnsurf@yahoo.com

Thank you!

"So this goes to all y’all intruders,
Beware of the OWNER, ’cause the OWNER is a shooter.

totally blown
swell will be too big and raw anyway
something tells me all those baggin' on SC earlier today will be surfing SC later tomorrow
hypocrisy as usual

Sad news today. Heard about some surfer getting a nasty wipe out from a photog out in Hawaii today. Thought it was nothing serious, and then came across this later. I loved looking at the insane huge waves this guy would charge at macking Chopes:

12.2.05 from Surfermag.com

Tahitian Surfer Dies at Pipeline
Malik Joyeux, 25, Killed on the North Shore

Tragedy struck again at the world’s deadliest surf spot this morning when Tahitian surfer Malik Joyeux was killed at Pipeline on Oahu’s North Shore. Joyeux, 25, a well-liked goofyfoot who recently came to prominence charging the treacherous barrels at Teahupoo, was one of approximately 60 surfers in the lineup on a sunny, six-to eight-foot Friday morning. At approximately 10:30 AM, according to reports from the beach, Joyeux dropped into a thick peak, fell backwards at the bottom and took the full impact of the lip. His broken board popped up soon after, but there was no sight of Joyeux. Sunset lifeguard Guy Pere later reported that Joyeux’s leash had somehow come undone or was torn off in the wipeout.

California’s Greg Long was one of approximately twenty surfers searching for Joyeux when he failed to surface. “Right after he went down, I was on the Backdoor side of the peak, and there was a three wave set. He had gone on the first wave of the set. Immediately I heard everybody in the lineup shouting, whistling and waving their boards. There were about twenty of us that paddled in right away and tried to find him, but we couldn’t. Eventually half that pack went in and about a dozen guys came running down with swim fins searching for his body. When we found him he was up by Pupukea [approximately 250 yards north of the Pipeline peak]. We put him on a longboard and were just scratching and kicking to get him in. But by that time it had been about fifteen minutes. The lifeguards tried to do some compressions, but it wasn’t working. Then they put him in an ambulance and that was the last I saw him.”

Cause of death has yet to be determined, pending a coroner’s report.

Joyeux, an accomplished all-around waterman and one of Tahiti’s most popular surf stars, was recently featured on SURFER’s 2004 Big Issue Cover and won the 2003 Billabong XXL Tube of the Year.

At noon Hawaiian time, the shocked North Shore surf community formed an impromptu prayer circle on the beach at Pipeline in honor of their fallen Tahitian brother.

why things get crowded: chatting to a woman at work who does triathlons she cheerfully said "now that the tri season is over, our tri training group is going to learn to surf. fourteen of us girls are going to a santa cruz surf school on the weekend..."

didnt know what to say really.

60 surfers and the death nell tolls but no one heard it from the crash of the big dark waves.
Lenses of cameras so captured the march of the traveler and his last toss and tumble. It was time for the ocean to take him and maybe he knew, maybe he didn't. Respect.

Papa's brewing a fun new storm...A low forming 15deg N of Hawaii is going to combine with a more powerful storm coming behind it, off of Japan, to give us a strong swell. The jet stream is starting to shift too, so maybe we'll even have some calm winds...Tuesday into Wed could get interesting. Until then, enjoy the windswell poo.

ranchiero ^^^

is that kurt warner with some bubba teeth?

rickland, you need a website. i bet many of us could help you design one and set it up.

ski season must have started because the crowds are way down

titian? show us something that put the "tit" in his name

god damn the ocean is so glasy I want to go kayaking

I lived in SC for 11 years, up until 3 years ago and though I did enjoy the town and the waves, you could not pay me to move back there now (we live in Morro Bay now). I would agree with e that it is in the elite as far as insane waves year round (there are many spots that go off on south swells), but the crowd situation in the water just killed me with it's unescapableness. I remember getting off work, knowing the surf was firing, pulling up to my local spot and hearing the fighting and bickering as I got out of the car. Only to watch 3-4 guys drop into every single wave.

That and the fact that we have little kids now and the town has formed a 'rougher' edge in the past few years that we'd rather not deal with. So I'm happily trading the insane consistent surf-set up's and great restaurants for a more uncrowded lineup.