E's Surf Report

That new surf report for mid beach blows (267-6999). WISE has better action.

I wish I could enjoy solo surfing.

Unfortunately,

I am the crowd.

solo,
great if you can get it
early dawn
last one out after dusk
crappy conditions
boat in
rapel down a cliff
tough to come by these days

That was sad about the guy passing away at pipeline. An 8 foot wave and he was done. And a very experienced surfer. I don't surf breaks like pipe, but I do surf 8 foot OB and I have almost drowned myself.

Coping, X-Calibur Trucks, Kicktail Decks, Kryptonics and Cadillacs. Back in the day.

Very sad about Malik. Seen videos of him surfing heavy, heavy Tahitian waves such as the pic above.

I love, live for, solo surf sessions. I'll go down the beach a little where no one really goes and score solo. Might be a tad smaller then where the pack of 20 people are, but when you get your pick of any wave, without hasslin', and can get into a session rhythm, it is much more worth it. Then after a couple hours, it is cool if someone paddles out with you, then you see that you really aren't ripping and you go home. ha!

8 foot OB is about a tenth as heavy as 8 foot pipe

probably even less

Yeah, sad. The stories were posted all over the Hawaiian newspapers. There were interviews with friends and family, pro surfers, etc... terrible.

Last year, when Jon Mozo died at Pipe, that was even worse. He had a young family, young children, etc... My sister's friend had hired him to do her wedding photos right before he passed away. I'll skip out on Pipe from now on. Not worth it.

e- you're scared even to mention skatepark names? You're taking this all way too hard.

are those dudes more into beta?

didnt surf once this weekend.

why didnt i spend more time skating as a young man, nice shots bruce, second from the top one looks so fun

RIP Malik. Yet another cool charger taken by the surf gods.
Be careful out there people! OB, Pipe or even a small day anywhere in the shorebreak can spell disaster.
Malik's slogan (from the oxbow site):
Faatura Te Natura ! (respect nature)

the triple crown site has photos of Malik's final wave at pipe

Saturday afternoon-hacked, some size, but some long rides...

Sunday DP...first one out, beautiful sets on the outside, backed off by 8 am...

I have been in some sketchy situations alone. When an experience surfer drowns it hits me a little hard because I feel like that could happen to me. No one expects to die out there. RIP.

Question: How do I decide if I should get rid of some old boards and what should I do with them. Some are ridable but need work. Some are irreplaceable but I will probably never ride them again, some are esssentially duplicated of other boards I have. In the past I always regretted getting rid of boards but they're just gathering dust. What should I do?

that new skatepark is sick! yesterday was outta control with an equal mix of old crusty rippers and my-first-time-ever-at-a-skatepark kiddies. i got my solo session in right across the street and just up from the other hordes of newbies (wife included). sweet goodness!! what crowds?!

RIP Malik

St. Augustine represent! Go Gabe Kling!! Take down Andy!!!

solo = soul

e - solo surfing sounds like fun. Next time you're heading out, give me a call. I'd like to surf a solo session with you.

kdalle—i am in the same boat.
i have 2 old thrusters that i never
ride in the garage. i have decided to take
one to the girlfriend's mom's place in hermosa.
at least i will always have something there to ride.

the old longboards are good to hold on to
but the ones that need help or
that you no longer ride...lawn sculpture?

kidding.

you taking any trips that you could take an
extra board and stoke out some grom?

one of my buddies from the east coast always
takes a triple board bag with 2 boards for the
trip and one old one that he leaves with somebody,
usually a little kid with a half a board.

speaking of solo surfing: anybody know the guy out on a red board at VFWs this morning surfing standing up with a big paddle?

is big-paddle-surfing the new longboarding? the new bouldering? where do I get a hand-made titanium paddle? and a "big-paddle board" - coz I'm sure my ordinary boards wont work...

sorry for the blurt. kind of burned on xmas consumerism already.

anyway. looked like the guy was having fun.

J

Took some surf pics on the south end on Sunday morning around 11:00. A few came out pretty good - for the first time, and using all automatic everything. Any of the crew riding an OP all white board? I got a few good shots of that person.

I'm gonna post some of the pics on one of the free sites until I get my own put together.

E - I solo more than surf with others. Solo surfing can be more relaxed than surfing with friends but surfing with others tends to make me work a little harder. I like it both ways.

I should have gone to Florida State. Remind me to send my kids there.

http://mb5.scout.com/ffloridastate19007frm23.showMessage?topicID=1874.topic

J, why is Christmas Consumerism bumming you out? are you feeling forced to buy stuff?

This morning, I surfed with five friends. I think that's a first for me.

Sometimes surfing with good friends is better than surfing good waves (NOT!)

Great idea about saving old boards and then giving them to needful groms. I have done the same, and it is great to pump that karma back into the wheel.

If one of my boards is totally dead and gone, I take it to the dump. Otherwise I refix them and sell them for cheap, keep a couple around for backup, and there are those sentimental ones that I could never ever part with, even if they're thrashed, due to the memories and experiences that board and I shared.

Where is that skatepark?

Marin

obro - you better start saving your shekels for phony boobs for your future daughters..looks like they'll feel out of place at Florida State without them.

I love surfing by myself. My problem is if I surf after having a toke, I get all paranoid and start thinking I see a shark. Do you guys get shark spookiness while surfing alone?

if it's foggy and i'm alone i feel the presense of the landlord. If it's sunny i'm alright.

Man, those FSU pics... damn. Miami's got all the hot women.

ditto e.

sun and blue sky..baked or not i am not
worried at all. foggy, grey and nasty...
i get the heeby jeebies much easier.

everyone, join my cult and worship me.

just thought I'd mention that I do eat on sunny days too

Does anyone know if epoxy boards float better than fiberglass boards?
I'm in the market for a new longboard and have heard that epoxy boards are more durable but that they also might float differently than glass.

huh huh bummer dude huh huh

Those FSU girls are an attractive bunch, but this Canadian gal has them all beat. www.juliehinton.com

Skip xmas shopping, surf solo.

Over-the-top American shopping-with-money-you-don't-actually-have bullshit gets OWN3D, obfuscatin' all higher principles and the real meaning of the season. Fucking sleeping sheep.

RIP Malik.

Buy Nothing Day in Full Force (until I have kids)

Anybody know of a service that handles visas?? I'm trying to get a Brazil visa and they are not cooperating(payback to American visa bullshit). I'm thinking of canceling because of the headache...

MM, ever since i saw your first comments on this blog i've kinda had a little crush on you. i love the way you attack society's traditional values and always stand up for your own self-righteous ideas. i was gonna surprise you with a new surfboard for christmas, but after your last comments i think i won't. you're right about the true meaning of christmas and i don't want to jeopardize anything we may have in the future. so, just know that someone out there thinks you're really special....

Bill Romanowski

Brazil and Brazilians suck. bail and hit peru. much nicer people...no loudmouth annoying brazoos ruining your surf sessions...no I take that back, they are all over Peru too, and in groups of 20.

why are Brazilian surfers soooo annoying? anyone ever been surfing somewhere exotic and have 15 brazilians decend on the lineup all at ONCE screaming and yelling? and why do they travel in clumps? a friend of mine from south america calls them cucarachas brazileras.

yep, brazilian surfers suck. run into them in mex, costa rica, and indo. there are a lot of them at OB now. It sucks!! drop in on everyone, including their own 'bros'. 3 brazilians on each wave = phucking stupid.

anyone ever partied with some of those hot brazilian boogie boarding chicks? i wonder if they are cool, or lame like their male counterparts. nice rear bumpers on those chicks.

I know 3 or 4 folks from Brazil who live and surf here and they're all very cool individuals. Alex is probably the best surfer in town.. where's he from? BRAZIL!

Brazzos get a bad rap, imho.

I didn't surf on Sunday morning (long story) but I did have my video camera with me. The wind was offshore, surprisingly. Wish I had a better computer so the video
capture wouldn't be so jumpy.

http://www.youtube.com/?v=thFQilFejwg

I hate generalizations...

Heyyyy, ooooh, "Secret Admirer" -- Howzabout a nice big mug of "shut the fuck up"?!

I've got another for your to crush on, my boy's got "skillz":

http://andreas.id.au/BruceLee.mpeg

And for all you YO-YOs out there, bow down to your new GOD:

http://www.devilducky.com/media/37630/

-------

e: yucks aside, I think you (especially) will dig the second video -- methinks you might have a bit in common with this cat.

[/caffeinated ranting]

Yeah, generalizations suck, but I can see where they come from.

TT, i'm assuming you've been to the North Shore or Brazil? Yeah, definitely nice bumpers on them. Brazillian girls in general are nice and down to Earth. Real friendly. I met a couple a few weekends ago in San Mateo, one moved here, the other visiting, and they were fun to hang out with. The one visiting was a bombshell.

I wonder surfs like he plays football. If he does, I will covering my balls hoping he does not try to bite my dick off. He was one homo-erotic mofo.

I wonder surfs like he plays football. If he does, I will covering my balls hoping he does not try to bite it off. He was one homo-erotic mofo.

you MIGHT think an American of all of people would be wary of nationality stereotyping, considering that if we accepted how we are perceived by others around the world, we'd have to accept that we are all big fat loud self-absorbed power hungry assholes who have no respect for other cultures or people. i myself would like to be judged as an individual rather than defined by those who have come before me from my country of origin, so i try to show others the same respect.

Christmas List:

now everyone hold hands and sing we are the world......

Alex and Christian are killer guys. they are a rarity. those are not the type of Brazilian surfers being referenced. they surf alone and dont paddle around and drop in.

I was referring to the whordes of Brazilian surfers that travel together in large wolfpacks, take over spots, and have no respect in the water- dropping in, paddling around, etc. even on themselves. flat out stupidity. American surfers dont do this (in general), so none of that anti-american talk, save that for the nascar crowd.
a lot of guys on this blog are big on surf edicate, i thought.

if you havent experienced having your surf trip practically ruined by brazilian wolfpacks, then you just havent run into them. lucky you.

regarding those rear bumpers, they are rad. i saw so many in brazil. i dont know anyone that has actually "experienced" one yet, if you know what i mean.

dudes, you should totally not sure alone. i was reading that it was like one of the biggest rules..."dude - never surf alone!!!!!"

still can't wait to get wet guyz. i'll make it out to Frisco yet!! deezzznutzzzz

simmer down kook

fyi, surf was Epic yesterday!!!

TT- is 100% right, until you are surfing a nice spot with 2 guys out and a pack of 15 brazilian jackasses all paddle out together you have no clue what a bummer it is.

Found my Visa Handler... This site rules!

As for Brazil, I ain't going to surf, I'm going for New Years fun in Rio.

Fun memory
January 12th 1994, a fun day at OB, I surfed twice. Two glorious 3 hour sessions in head-high glassy peaks and not even close to being crowded. My first session was way fun and my over active imagination recalls a slight cover up on one little nugget. i got out of the water well after sunset on my second session went home showered and met my girl (at the time) at the Warfield, smoked "hella" bowls and fell asleep half way through a classic Jerry and Grisman show. Just a memory that popped into my head.

MM, you are an ASSHOLE!! I never want to see your stupid comments again! KOOK!!!

bloodninja, now that MM and I are broken up maybe we could chat...

Speaking of ninjas "Secret", I'm dispatching *all* my ninjas to your house this evening...they are most efficient, silent and unkind. BTW "Secret," I'll see you at work tomorrow *and* in the lineup this weekend. Still riding your home-made faux Yater spoon?? Ho brah, charge 'em!

Mexi...some days are not so different from your dreams. That one will dispense niceness into your mind even when you're old + gray.

Damn, I've polluted the blog thoroughly today. Sorry. :)

nice video, steve!

i'm so mad at my wife that she had to work yesterday.

hmm. this board hasn't changed too much

the other J and MM?

Thanks for sharing Mexi. What a sweet day!! Surf all day long, perfect conditions, no crowds, Jerry Garcia!!

In 94 I was in Venezuela learning to surf on a 3rd hand board which took in water better than it paddled and listening to Dead bootlegs (I did not know who Grisman was).

LOL

mexi,
Did you make the ventura shows? I think it was 83, smoking south coming into Ventura point then into the show dripping wet. Then party all night with the so cal chickies....yeah baby

I miss Jerry. Will try and reproduce the feeling on 12/30 when I hopefully surf good waves, burn and then head over to the Warfield to see Phil. Not the same, at all, but still great to mix surf and Dead-esque music...that's the Bay Area for you.

TT,

Speaking of generalizations, I kept hearing from guys that the Brazilians are supposed to be real, uhhh, open-minded. I guess, liberal is another way of putting it. Well, not so much Brazilians, but the Rio de Janerios and Sao Paulos. I don't know. When I was down there, I didn't see any of the Americans "hooking it up" with the locals. They were trying to, though.

I also read this interesting article on my plane flight to Hawaii last week regarding the next wave of Brazilian immigrants to Hawaii. It was pretty interesting. Man, I hope you guys are wrong about all those Brazilian surfers.

25 years ago...

Web in 83' I was in 8th grade... But man smoking south, Ventura, early 80's dead, Hot socal babes in neon colors!.... SICK!!

Oi amigos,

It has been a while since my last access to Niceness, but after a call I got from a friend I decided to check it out and read all the discussion re: Brazilians who suck. First of all, for the ones that got their trips ruined by hordes of my compatriots, I AM REALLY SORRY! I know it sucks and try to stay way from own people, even though I love them to death.

I have to say though that we are not the only ones who behave poorly in the water. I don't want to get started, but depending on the destination you are going to, you will see massive groups of Japanese, Ozzies, Floridians and some folks from cultures that might seem obnoxious to you, such as Italians and Israelis. They like to talk loud in the water as my Brazilian fellas do. It's not right or wrong - just different. By the way, places where you will find lots of people from other countries are no longer exotic. Bali, Costa Rica, Oahu, Peru might be exotic for other activities, but not surfing, despite the quality of their waves. You want exotic, try Bangladesh, Mauritania or Nauru.

Anyway, back to the discussion, I don't think dropping in on people is cool, regardless of where you are from. That said, I wonder what happened to the surf scene, right in front of where I leave. It's a zoo out there and I bet 2, out of the hundred surfers I saw yesterday, come from Brazil.

To finish my post, I would like to invite anybody who hate Brazilians in general to have a beer and bbq on my backyard, after a surf sesh. Hopefully, I will be able to change your negative impressions about my culture.

Have a niceness day!
Christian

PS: Speaking of Brazilians, let's vote for Alex Martens to compete at the Mavs contest. Please go to: http://surfermag.com/features/mavs/

not being racist, but it is true about the brazilios.
i got very close in sao pauolo, chicks all over the gringos.

Christian, I don't hate Brazilians but if it will get me free beer and a bbq I will try!

Good on ya Christian!

Oh, and I aint going for the chicks either, I'm going witht the wifey, to see some good music, drink, and chill. But a few of them nice brazo poopers might get my attntion.

TT

I used to have a negative impression of brazilians, until I opened my mouth and spoke with them in Indo. You know what? They were really cool -- invited me to dinner, talked story, and were very passionate about LIFE and surfing. I made some new friends that day, and those guys ended up introducing me to some beautiful Brazilian women. Moral of the story is, their culture is different than ours. Different, not better or worse. So stop judging and bitching, and open up and say "Hi" or "how's it going?" This goes for here or on the road. It is amazing how far you get when you're actually nice to people. Try it, you'll like it, TT. And in the words of Owl Chapman (if you don't know who he is, educate yourself), "be nice to someone for a change. Give a wave. Give a smile. Who knows, he may have a good looking sister." Aloha tt.

tt

If that advice doesn't work, drop in on them!

oh yeah, one last thing. I dropped in on someone yesterday, and I am NOT a Brazilian.

I had a Brazilian girl come into my work the other day. Not even 1/2 as fine as the girl above but man did I sprout wood!

I think a lot of surfers are pretty lame in general. Trying to act dumb, when they have potential. Trying to act cool, when they are kinda average. I try to stay away from the surf culture thing. Sneak off and surf alone, come back and try not to mention I've ever surfed to anyone. Kinda like beating off in the shower. An embarrassing release you wouldn't mention to anyone.

hmmm

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=241882;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread

the other ob is packed with brazillians and brazillian chicks just as hot as her.

Holey Shit.... Clark Foam out of Business!

Anon,
I don't have daughters.
And I can't believe that you thought I was looking at their breasts! Those are college age girls - 18 to 22 year-olds! My god.
I simply thought they looked healthy and looked like they were having a lot of fun. It just seemed like a great institution, this Florida State.

Brazilians are great people, and as a whole, probably a lot more respectful than Americans. But along the solo thread, things are different when there are 15 people in a line-up who know each other. This really sucks. Its easy to be aggressive, take off deep and "not see" the surfer you're dropping in on when 14 of your buddies are down the line. Its easy to be disrespectful.

The fact that there are 15 people is the problem - not that their Brazilian.

Everyone should surf solo, among others, more often. That is how you learn respect.

If Brazilian surfers are sleeping with Brazilian girls, then I think they should be shot. The less of them, the better chance I have. Except for that, they are okay.

I always root for Brazil during World Cup, just so I can see their female fans during the crowd shots.

Wow... I just heard about Clark Foam. WTF??? They say the state of Cali wants them out of here. Why???

Oh well, looks like you guys will finally get your wish of emtpy lineups. I can't help but laugh, and cry, at the same time. God damn.

i heard all shortboard shapes are out of stock but they have a huge inventory of hybrids/lonboarsd for summer.

stock your quiver now!

that last post was me

"If you want to surf...
go to Hawaii
If you want to fuck...
Go to Brazil!"

I'm pretty sure that charming fellow I sat outside and traded waves with over "God's Weekend" was from Brazil. And, just in case the picture above isn't all the evidence you need, the best soccer fans in the world, even at games where there home is not represented, are Brazilian. But don't take my word for it, ask an expert. Ask "Lime Voodoo."

i never said that brazilians were bad people.
i said that a wolfpack of brazilians can ruin your surf trip. many people agreed.

didnt say Brazilians were not cool, they are.

enough about Brazil. anyone else think it's getting fucking cold as shit? i had to use a blow dryer to help warm up the room.

surfing alone is knice!

surfing alone is knice!

since Clark foam is done, all you middle of the becah trannies better go to SF surf and stock up on hybrids and fun shapes before its too late.

Checked here this morning to see what the Clark fallout might be. Good that you guys have figured out Brazilians suck and I hope that you all are real good with ding repair. You'll be keeping your boards alive a lot longer no that Clark has shut his doors.

What does it take for surfers to pull it out and wake up to the world around themselves in a way that is more constructive than "Brazilians suck"?

This forum has hit a new level of irrelevance- I can see not being concerned about much in the world around you but when it hits at home and you are still out to lunch....

Good luck to all of us.

just wanted to let you guys know, I have a 6'6, two 6'8's, a 6'10 ,a 7'0 a 8'3 and a 10'4. By the time they are all broken, Clark Foam will be up and running in TJ and I won't have any problems. Hopefully this thins out the choked lineup.

you have an 8'3" ? what a joke.