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cold, dark, black

16ft 16seconds on the SF buoy.
Couldn't see squat from the beach.
Booming, ground-shaking thunderclaps.
Hellish, sub-sonic profusions.
Holy mackaloly.
Suit up.
Grab the 8'8".
Meditate while jogging down to the local.
"Stay relaxed, find your rhythm, don't puss out."
Get to the water's edge.
See nothing but white-water and foam.
Watch putrid, oily, garbage-water flow directly into the ocean.
Wade in and start paddling.
Duck-diving.
Paddling.
Duck-diving.
Tasting the briny, chalky dirt-water.
Paddling.
Duck-diving.
Forever.
Conditions are wild and manic outside the first few rows of white-water.
Tempestuous clashings from multiple directions.
Insane-o triple-ups rising and crashing.
Keep paddling.
Head down.
Deep duck-dives.
Look up to see triple-story avalanches of white-water.
Shit.
Ditch and dive.
Inadvertently drink the poo-water.
bleeechhh.
Leash snaps.
Fuck!
Floating way out in the victory at sea.
All conditions amplified beyond anything i've experienced.
Constant, neverending sets of wild, unrefined groundswell.
Can't see land, can't see the sun.
Board nowhere to be found.
Only towering waves, white-water and the faint sound of fog-horns.
Floating and swimming.
Mammoth walls washing over.
Submerged for 20 seconds? 40 seconds?
Blackness and calming thoughts.
Life but a fleeting instant of time.
The ocean giveth and taketh away.
Back to the surface.
Sucking air.
More mountains of unforgiving aquatic terror.
Floating and swimming.
Side-stroke, front-crawl.
Death-march.
Over the falls on a huge one.
Circling and spinning under water.
Open the eyes to see dark black nothingness.
Cold, dark, black nothingness.
Cold, dark, black soothing calm.
Calming, comforting, easing, peace.
Fade away.

niceness

So wait a minute "... fade away." ? Did you drown? e, speak to me, speak to me!
Good on ya for sackin' up and goin' in blind - but JEEZUZ!

Posted by: Jimmie at December 21, 2005 10:23 AM

Jeff Probst...well, kinda second.

Posted by: Survivor at December 21, 2005 10:28 AM

That was intense!!

Posted by: TSM at December 21, 2005 10:29 AM

That wave makes the Manhattan Beach pier look very small. It is huge down here. Some random spots are going to go off today. Off to check them. Oh and it in the high 70's already. Gonna be an all-time day.

Posted by: Hb at December 21, 2005 10:29 AM

Booming, macking, swell fog around town. Largest energy hit up north of SF last night.

Posted by: dano at December 21, 2005 10:32 AM

I just broke a sweat reading that one, e. All too familiar.

Posted by: flades at December 21, 2005 10:36 AM

oh, that was you on the 8'8"? i drowned about a half block south, after getting my neck snapped and a fin through my liver. it was cold!

Posted by: kloo at December 21, 2005 10:38 AM

Here's a link to a Ventura County web cam:
http://web.insidevc.com/webcam/

Wish I could've made the drive down...

Posted by: steve at December 21, 2005 10:38 AM

Hb, save some for next week, coming down to visit the folks. But not THAT big, Jeez...

Posted by: con at December 21, 2005 10:40 AM

i miss la. nice one kloo and e..

Posted by: bagel at December 21, 2005 10:53 AM

I just sent following complaint letter to O'Neill and thought I would re-post here because I am annoyed. Sorry if it's inappropriate, but...

To whom it may concern: I am actually writing to provide general feedback regarding your website. I know this is not the correct address, but that is one of my complaints: There is no general e-mail address listed to contact O'Neill on your website, which I think is problematic. BUT, I am actually writing about another more significant complaint.

I am going to be buying a new wetsuit in the next couple of days and thought I would check out my options online; I basically am choosing between O'Neill and Hotline, both brands I have owned in the past and been pleased with generally. So I went to your website to see what the current models are for me (a twenty-something female surfer who lives in chilly northern California) to choose from. And there appear to be two genders to choose from on your website, which generally would be fine, except that the two genders listed are "Mens" and "Juniors." I fall into neither of these two genders and honestly it's offensive. If you are a man or a boy, you can build an entire wetsuit of 5 different colors and order it online, but if you are a woman, you cannot even check out what the current models of suits are. Now I know you make and sell lots of women's suits and you sponsor female surfers, but you sure wouldn't know if from looking at your website.

So, I went to Hotline's site and not only are their current models of women's suits two clicks away from the home page, but they have a woman surfer on the homepage surfing an actual wave. So, all this to say that I will headed down to Aqua on Sloat Street (my local surfshop) to purchase a Hotline suit. One lost customer,

Posted by: steamwand at December 21, 2005 10:56 AM

"victory at sea" a long time favorite expression unruly conditions.
looks like a good day for the reefs in PVE.

Posted by: PNW at December 21, 2005 10:59 AM

Hotline suits are better anyway

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 11:00 AM

geez, I too would love to share every detailed thought about some mundane thing that I did and the entire process I followed but alas I'm busy working.

Posted by: NEXT WEEK: My left sock rides higher than the right! at December 21, 2005 11:04 AM

muahaha, fun ones

Posted by: bbr at December 21, 2005 11:11 AM

if you don't have anyting nice to say then....

Posted by: toad at December 21, 2005 11:12 AM

Your tale reminded me of something I wrote in Jan 1997

Duncan had started his push 5-10 minutes before me (I usually stretch to avoid muscle pulls) and as I first began to paddle, he had just made it through the over-head shorepound that is inevitable at high tide. As I began paddling, I found myself caught between wanting him to succeed and wanting him to stay close. I soon was driven back to the point where standing is just about as good as trying to fight the current with your arms. Again I gave it a run, and again I was driven back. Finally, I made some progress and was just about to make it over the first hurdle. I thought I had a chance to sprint paddle to the next wave and come as close to a duck-dive as you can expect on a 9'6" longboard. As I moved up the face, I tried to penetrate through to the back side of the wave. Once through, I then got only a glimpse of the next wave before I was sucked back over and down into the depths.

The first hold-down wasn't too bad. Once up, I managed to get a breath and position my board parallel to the beach to give it some protection from being snapped by the next wave. That one held me down for a good while; not beyond my breath, but close. The next pushed it closer, and this time I made it to the bottom. Slowly and deliberately, I felt for the sand with my feet and waited a step before pushing off and up to the surface. Then a smaller wall of water and a shorter hold-down. Then another. Then another, and another... I started to see the scene from a viewpoint about a foot behind my eyes. One sequence of events rang in my head: 1) get to board; 2) hold onto board; and 3) get washed in. At one point my board was deck-down and I was holding on to the side like some shipwreck survivor might hold onto some jetsam. I finally got my arms around the middle with my stomach on the deck near the tail, and I rode the mush nearly to shore. I got out and just sat on the sand trying to catch my breath.

Posted by: friend #1 at December 21, 2005 11:18 AM

no offense.. but.. if you're too busy to post mundane details than why post yours??

Most people probably check out/post on the blog when they're taking breaks from the monotony of computer-life.

Posted by: e at December 21, 2005 11:18 AM

whoa. gnarly story f#1.

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 11:25 AM

I have nothing to say and I am saying it

Posted by: John Cage at December 21, 2005 11:34 AM

I want this for christmas. Sweet adult pogo. Check the videos.
http://www.flybar.com/pages/home.html

Posted by: Angus at December 21, 2005 11:39 AM

Scary E. Did you really paddle out? I enjoyed a three wave hold-down with enough time for a breath or two between waves last month that almost sent me paddling for the beach. But I got a hold of myself and paddled back out. A buddy saw my beating as he was paddling out and asked if I was OK. He said I was under for a long time. The waves were not hitting anywhere near 16' 16 secs though. How do those Mav's guys do it?

Posted by: Dennis at December 21, 2005 12:13 PM

tank for sale

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 12:14 PM

Everyone said she was "ungettable." I started in with her on a night out drinking. She was teasing the fuck out of me with her stuff. Did I mention she was married to my boss? A week later I'm boat sitting at Staten Island and dreaming of actually bedding her back in Maine where I lived for a spell. As soon as I get back to Portland its all dreamy and we bigin an affair that seemed pretty normal on the surface of things. Warm days on Sebago Lake - me holding her young, soft and supple body in my arms on the surfaceof the water. Her small breasts bare and we're making out like mad and by the third week of this summer romance things start getting weird. The husband is driving by my house in his Alfa - at 3am; calling me on my phone and threatening to kill me. His wife of course is hiding under the covers and getting off on the insane energy. By the fourth week all she wanted me to do was "take my anger out on her ass."

Posted by: Anger Management at December 21, 2005 12:19 PM

great song:

Father and Son

johnny cash and fiona apple

Posted by: bagel at December 21, 2005 12:30 PM

A sludgy, creepy masterpiece and probably the best record ever to be cursed with the Grunge label, Alice In Chains' Dirt relentlessly explores singer Layne Staley's very real and very disturbing addiction to heroin. Jerry Cantrell's wah-heavy Sabbath riffs trudge through the murk like a brontosaurus and Staley's vocals were never more Morrison-meets-Ozzy.

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 12:38 PM

2 tough choices, hydrolic pogo stick or urban battle tank with alpine sound system....
i will ask Santa for both.

Posted by: dsx at December 21, 2005 12:40 PM

Mavs: huge deep channel + skis to pull your ass out of the pit; none of that at ob

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 12:40 PM

I think O'neill probably sells more Mens suits than Juniors( or womens).They probably offer more styles to the larger customer base.There are minimums to produce any product.Womens wetsuits actually cost more to make then Mens( more curves=more work and more cuts)if you charged Women more than Men for a similar suit you could write more letters!

Posted by: Blue crushed at December 21, 2005 12:53 PM

Posted by: namers, claimers and mundane thought sharers get owned at December 21, 2005 12:54 PM

scary santa.

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 01:00 PM

photoshop.

Posted by: photoshop nazi at December 21, 2005 01:02 PM

yikes
heres one for your archives, owner guy..

kid gets owned?

Posted by: bagel at December 21, 2005 01:13 PM

what?! you mean that's not a real evil cat/bunny-faced santa claus holding that screaming kid? my entire belief system has been shattered!

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 01:30 PM

you have a point. I suck at being a nazi. :(

Posted by: photoshop nazi at December 21, 2005 01:47 PM

Damn. I believed it.

Posted by: Dennis at December 21, 2005 01:50 PM

Need to hit a nook and cranny!

Posted by: Need to get wet at December 21, 2005 01:54 PM

Screw the tank, I'm flying down to LA today.

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 01:57 PM

heavy words, e - although not very encouraging for those us wusses considering a go-out on a LARGE day.

i had no holiday plans until yesterday, when i found some cheap tickets to ixtapa. i was hoping to spend a week in troncones but every place i've contacted is booked. dumbness. any peeps know of a nearby location/area that they would recommend? any info MUCH appreciated - rzadigi at gmail.

Posted by: rza at December 21, 2005 02:05 PM

Posted by: owning needs to be direct, video is too long. at December 21, 2005 02:10 PM

IS it me or does that "tank" look like Jabba The Hutt's desert hovercraft? Star Wars had to have influenced that design.

e bringing the fiction -- have had some nightmares like that before, too. Yup, it's all up for some Jungian analysis. Ummkay, maybe no. Word.

Posted by: Dem at December 21, 2005 02:15 PM

hey Hb...

be in town tomorrow. let's surf bubba!
gonna make a stab at the sb area manana
on my way south. stoked stoked stoked.

solstice time!
the days get longer now. whew!

merry christmas happy chanakkah to all...
get some surf.

Posted by: korewin at December 21, 2005 02:44 PM

damn, that baby is OWNING that cabbage patch kid.

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 02:47 PM

I KNOW that look. The red face, the crossed-eyed concentration - that baby's takin' a dump!

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 02:59 PM

Have a nice trip Korwin. You'll be baskin' in the chilly waters of SoCal while I'm basking in the freezing waters of NJ. I suspect you'll have better waves :^)

I'm gonna wear a 1.5mm long-sleeve neoprene shirt under a 4/3 wetsuit, a hooded vest and a cap, 5mm boots, and gloves that I haven't worn in ten years. That outta hold me in 45 degree and 35 degree air - at least for an hour or two.

Posted by: Dennis at December 21, 2005 03:10 PM

What happened next, Friend #1?

Did Duncan make it out? If so, did he catch any waves?

Did you make it out?

Posted by: duncan at December 21, 2005 03:30 PM

No, No, and No.

I rested there about 10 minutes and was just about to give it another shot at the next channel down the beach. Then I noticed Duncan. While he had made it to the in-between-zone past the shorepound, he hadn't had any success in getting through the outside break. As I walked to the car I saw his board fly out of the white-water over and over again as he dove under wave after wave. Once at the car, I could see that a guy who had paddled out in the channel down the beach had made it through the shorebreak easily, but now faced and even bigger break-zone than Duncan. In all, I think 6 people tried it while we were there, and nobody made it further than Duncan, who gave up well short of the outside. Wise's surf report for today, called it, “10 to 15 foot. Offshore, but kind-of a tough paddle. If you've got the nerve and a big enough board you might want to check it out."

Posted by: friend #1 at December 21, 2005 03:51 PM

'Steamwand' is such a kinky name for a chick. gosh, it is like prorno!!
go buy an Xcel suit, Xcel rules!
ps- let us know if O'neill responds

Posted by: wandstream at December 21, 2005 03:59 PM

Excuse me while I light my spliff
Oh GOD I gotta take a lift
From reality I just can't drift
That's why I am staying with this riff

Take it easy, taking it easy
Got to take it easy, taking it slow
Take it easy, taking it easy
Skanky taie it easy, taking it slow

Tell you what herb for my wine
Honey for my strong drink
Herb for my wine, honey for my strong drink

Posted by: 420 at December 21, 2005 04:01 PM

Is it true if you eat too much soy that you will get "bitch tits"?

i heard there is a lot of estrogen in tofu.

thoughts?

Posted by: atari at December 21, 2005 04:02 PM

RZA, take a cab or bus up to Rio Nexpa, you'll be stoked!
stay at jorge's place.

Posted by: judahpeak at December 21, 2005 04:04 PM

thanks dennis!

have a big ol slice of east coast pizza for me!!
good on you for scoping it out. you'll get some
waves. the frigid east coast serves up nugs for
the hearty who give it a whirl.

Posted by: korewin at December 21, 2005 04:04 PM

I had this girlfriend back at Cal Poly that LOVED to screw when it rained. Every rainy day, we would skip class. She also liked to do it on her couch in her living room in the middle of the day- risking getting caught by the roomates. Damn, that was good. she was so hot too!! My friend ended up marrying her, he didnt come into work today.

Posted by: tt at December 21, 2005 04:07 PM


Posted by: they didn't have my size! at December 21, 2005 04:25 PM

Holy crap that's a good one E.

It's funny, before I started surfing I used to think drowning would be a painful way to die. And after the usual few close calls I agree, it's probably pretty peaceful, especially since you have so many other things on your mind...

Posted by: Jaques Haas at December 21, 2005 04:31 PM

You rock dude!

Posted by: Yeah for Bagel's comics! at December 21, 2005 04:40 PM

bagel is the man!

here's bagel in 2006

Posted by: e at December 21, 2005 04:51 PM

dang, much obliged dudes, awesome. and thanks for another year of good reading and good shit talking e! i cant wait for my switchstance nias barrel!

Posted by: bagel at December 21, 2005 04:56 PM

thanks wandstream. yeah, i'm pretty kinky. it's actually an innocent reference to the espresso machine at my old job in 98-99 at georgianna's cafe in bookshop santa cruz. i will check out the xcel's. they have those at aqua too. and diana mattison rides for them and she rips, so maybe if i get one i'll be able to surf like she does. that's what happens right?

Posted by: steamwand at December 21, 2005 05:04 PM

I went downtown, I saw Miss Brown;
She had brown sugar all over her booga-wooga.

I think I might join the fun, but I had to hit and run.
See I just can't settle down in a kinky part of town.

Where is Heather?

Posted by: atari at December 21, 2005 05:15 PM

Steamwand,
Good letter. You can't buy an O'Neil this time around if only for the reason that you were irked enough to write it.
I too have been going back and forth between O'Neil and Hotline. A few years ago I thought the switch to O'Neil was permenant with this new wetsuit technology. I was so happy with my last O'Neil. I bought a new one this year. It was so stretchy it leaked and filled up the legs. I've since gone to Aqua and bought me a Hotline. I'm back to Hotline. It is a great suit!
Wow! Kinky, that's cool. I bet you like all Kaiser's pics too?

Posted by: surfingsam at December 21, 2005 05:20 PM

oh shit that bagel shot is insane... sick style mang

Posted by: bbr at December 21, 2005 05:34 PM

Posted by: sd_rider at December 21, 2005 06:30 PM

given all the circumstances i could have sworn that a "steamwand" was a hot dildo

Posted by: at December 21, 2005 06:39 PM

man bagel, first time I've ever seen your comics - fucking cool.


where is heather?

Posted by: obro at December 21, 2005 07:29 PM

Bagel - I like the kid in ther background with his hands in his pockets looking all bummed out. Great bunch of characters.

Posted by: Dennis at December 21, 2005 07:50 PM

Who the fuck posted a picture of me in Northern Sumatra and claimed it was "Bagel". More importantly, how did you get that picture?

Posted by: SLAYER at December 21, 2005 08:55 PM



Posted by: Bagel is searching for....... at December 22, 2005 12:11 AM


Posted by: Slayer get's owned by false claimers and the niceness poseurs who name and claim and steal pics and at December 22, 2005 12:31 AM

Hmmm... wow, that last pic seems to be pushing the boundries of common decency.

Posted by: MSG at December 22, 2005 01:56 AM

Pic is explosive!

Posted by: at December 22, 2005 07:35 AM

this place has degenerated

although there still is a smattering of good stuff (bagel's comic)

where's heather?

Posted by: at December 22, 2005 08:03 AM

feels like home to me

Posted by: degenerate at December 22, 2005 09:52 AM

well, I think the race for the bottom in the "who can post the most offensive and pointless photo" contest is officially over. Nice work douchebag

Posted by: the janitor at December 22, 2005 10:07 AM

apparently you are not familiar with tubgirl.
http://www.redcoat.net/pics/tubgirl.jpg

not work safe kiddies.

Posted by: PNW at December 22, 2005 10:18 AM

PNW, you are sick....really.

Posted by: at December 22, 2005 10:38 AM

Whoah! Let's bring back some nice vibes.


Posted by: at December 22, 2005 10:42 AM

YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Heather, we've missed you!

Posted by: obro at December 22, 2005 10:46 AM

Posted by: at December 22, 2005 10:47 AM

Posted by: at December 22, 2005 10:49 AM

you can keep your SoCal beach bunny types, city scenester chicks are the girls for me.

Posted by: testy testing at December 23, 2005 09:15 AM

Can't we all just get along and ride 11' ers with big thick leashes? I think I'll post directions to Deadmans so I can enjoy it with all my east coast friends!

Posted by: GoodVibeBob at January 3, 2006 11:51 PM
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