E's Surf Report

Ethan,

Didn't you just have a SICK trip down to Mex not too long ago? I think you're slumping at a specific point in life. Maybe you're way more stoked on playing music right now opposed to driving around looking for surf.

Happy holidays everyone.

See you all in a few months :)
be on the look-out for some pictures from OZ.

Well said. The sad state of surfing these days.

Yes please NEVER drop coin to go to those places you mentioned, they're WAY too crowded and there's no niceness blog members to share happy thoughts with and it's so dirty there and the internet hot spots are SO unreliable and they never have soy lattes either.

.

If you go to Mentawais you will get some crowds but from what my friend as told me its pretty organized in a line, no paddling around people for position. the deepest guy goes and then gets to the back of the line and so on. i think after paying 5K you respect that other have paid as much and try to share and have fun. thats just from what he said, he maybe putting a happy face on the 5K.

if you dont want crowds, go to tavarua. the own the rights to the waves, they kick out all boats and there are about 20 beds on the island.

help!!! I want to buy a custom board for my best friend, but I want it to be a surprise. Can you give me any tips on how to order the *perfect* board?

THATS NOT TRUE! I had a soy latte one time in **************. It was great!

Ha, whatever.

E, travel and surf. The travel is not always about surfing. Buts if real fucking nice when you come around the bend and see the spot you have been plotting for months from 500 feet up. When you get down the valley, its head high and there are 4 people out.

Are you stoked or do you want to grab a beer and fire off an email?

Burning gas sucks. But sitting around bumming about what the surf might have been like is worse.

You only live once, so play the game to fullest!

very generous of you astro, but you cannot order a custom board for someone else. custom entails a conversation between surfer and shaper so that the board is designed to the specifications laid out by the surfer for his or her style of surfing and the waves and all that.

well said kaiser sose.

Yeah, you hit a lot of good points, e. I also feel that surfing marginal, uncrowded Ocean Beach is better than scoring "all-time," waves at some crowded hassled-out/hustled-out spot. And while travelling to destinations heavily featured in surf magazines is ussually not worth the time and money, they are often good jumping off places for some personal exploration to find nearby "secrets." Don't despair, there's lots of places left to explore - don't ask me where ... that would be tellin'.

lots of inspiring write ups lately e, but this wasn't one of them!

it sounds to me like a lot of that negativity you are describing comes from your attitude and the way your state of mind affects your perception.

Rincon today could be a holy, glorious site. Why would you have to be grimacing and battling for waves? You have full control over the attitude with which you enter the ocean. You could enter into the water just stoked to watch these beautiful waves peel, and be stoked for other people catching great rides. You could psyche yourself 'low' by only expecting to catch one wave, and when you catch two, you're twice as grateful.

Every session is a great opportunity to feel alive and connect with the ocean and energy older than life, and realizing this helps keep surfing pure. Paddling out with expectations of simple wave riding is the way to go. Comparing ourselves to others is vanity. The drive for progression is good as we grow our talents, but not if it causes unhappiness.

I understand where you're coming from. I struggle with my own, very un-Buddhist DESIRES coming from wave lust. But I try to reject those feelings when they are going to create as dark and tainted a view as you portrayed of surfing this morning.

There are waves to ride. Waiting for you. Come surf my favorite North county point / reef system when its TOH and there are only 5 guys out (plus a tow team).

On a brighter note: Where is the most epic beachbreak in world, with respect to plenty of room, consistent swell, and good wind/weather?

Thanks bro! What about the latte? I owned that venti.

right on JOC.. inspiring words as always.

I echo the comments that folks are more chill abroad. I was in Bali this time last year being shielded from the Tsunami, and *s* **a surfers both local and ausie were very cool and respectful.

By the way, nice tunes the other day amigo. I particularly liked the breakdown in the last 40 seconds of Playing in the Foam. Great energy.

Enjoy the 'za if you're going East!

E, Nun, Gimmel, Heh. Have a groovy Hanukkah!

thank the lord for john coltrane!

It's all good.

sweet J.o.C! thanks.

yeah.. east coast tonight. Might be surfing near Point Pleasant in a few days. definitely pizza and chicken cheese steaks.

E. I might see you in the lineup. Looks like a definate for Monday. 4'ish and light offshores predicted. Meeting a friend from Seaside Heights and another from up north a bit farther.

A surfer falls as he drops into a large wave at La Jolla Cove in San Diego Wednesday, Dec. 21, 2005. (AP Photo/Denis Poroy)

e, i totally feel the same way. probably why i haven't surfed anywhere but ob since our last trip i didn't even realize that until i read your write up. for me it's mostly an anxiety thing.

heading up to tahoe tonight for a few days of boarding. hopefully the temperature will drop.

anybody read this?

i'm sure this was posted ealier, but if not, check it out. from SNL last saturday.
chronic

Happy Holidays!

e - thanks for another year of epic blogging.
with regards to jaded/burnt stoke. it happens.

when i was like 18/19/20 ish I spent more time in the ocean than any other place. driving, surfing, so happy to be surfing. i was fortunate to be introduced to the sport by a handfull of rippers... aside from all the pluses of surfing with these dudes i was privey to their burn out...

a pivitol moment in my surfing was when one of said friends made a off hand comment about how he only enjoyed going out when it was epic (we were standing in front of decent glassy surf, just not rifling barrels)... I though, damn... I never want to be like that. Never.

Well.... 10 years later this year I've found myself in the same shoes. for about a whole year i've been uninspired.. funny how that works. it wasn't till late october out in the ocean that the stoke came back. i'm not surfing as much as I did, but everytime I head out there, it feels great to be in the water. things change. work sucks. life happens. just be glad you have music as an additional creative outlet. you are ahead of the curve.

as for custom board stuff.. sure you can get a custom board for a friend! why not! though, good luck in the next couple of months! the proverbial well is dry.

rain rules.

Storm #7. That is all.

Yeah I can relate- nice joc! We people are definately crowding each other and it ain't getting any better, I passed on surfing more than once just because I just couldn't deal with a crowd. But even in this year of the zoo, the most crowded, blogged, photographed, webcammed, forecasted, claimed, named, and owned year ever...

I found empty perfect waves in the place I least expected.

Deserted Yosemite wilderness on labor day weekend

Fields of untracked "weekend" Sierra pow- after hiking far enough.

It's out there, those days a far an few between, but keep me sane the rest of the year. To find it you just have to go farther, be persistant and lucky. Fortunately, most people are sheep and follow the herd- thus crowds. Good luck in the search!

possibly the biggest wave at swamis ive ever seen a photo of. what a crazy swell, matt jack and leroy kind of shit. my friend just sent me some crazy shots of blacks. thanks for clearing that up e, i didnt totally remember getting that switchstance tube in 2006 but i just went with it. nice effing wave though slayer! you got the christmas blues e probably i just surfed more when i was a kid so my chances of scoring good sessions nowadays are more slim but they still happen ocasionaly like 2 weeks ago, just me in front of fulton street taking of on any shoulder high peak i wanted..ca-laim

E,
Quit surfing if you are gonna whine about it so much. Cancel the blog.
nice negativity for your end of the year post.

Slayer = Bagel, confirmed.

I feel so unsure,
As I take your hand and lead you to the dance floor.
As the music dies...
Something in your eyes,
Calls to mind a silver screen,
And all those sad goodbyes.

I?m never gonna dance again,
Guilty feet have got no rhythm.
Though it?s easy to pretend,
I know you?re not a fool.

I should have no better than to cheat a friend,
And waste the chance that I?d been given.
So I?m never gonna dance again,
The way I danced with you.

Time can never mend,
The careless whispers of a good friend.
To the heart and mind,
If your answer?s kind...
There?s no comfort in the truth,
Pain is all you?ll find.

What am I without your love?

Tonite the music seems so loud,
I wish that we could lose the crowd.
Maybe it?s better this way,
We?d hurt each other with the things we want to say.

We could have been so good together,
We could have made this last forever...
But now, who?s gonna dance with me?
Please stay.

Now that you?re gone...
Now that you?re gone...
Now that you?re gone...
Was what I did so wrong?
So wrong that you had to leave me alone?

you're probably right tt. maybe it's time to end the blog. Time to just surf stop blabbering about it.

seriously.

I have to say, I get a lot of humor off this blog. Man, there are some good posts and some funny posts. It is very refreshing to refresh the browser every couple of hours.

What the heck would i read while at work??? My cubicle life would be brutal. I say keep the blog, 1 negative post and a poor suggestion means nothing. CHEERS!!! to 2006.

E, i think you'll get you're stoke back in Jersey for sure. Its buttcold here in NYC and i can guarantee no crowds. Redeem yourself.

No doubt some of the negative posts that show up after school gets out are getting you down.

Funkadelic said it best:

You say you don't like where you're at (yeah)
You can make a change
If you accept the blame
Stay in control of your reactions, it
Will determine the effect
Of any situation

You have the power to negate
Also cause and feeling
That prohibits you to think
A situation is just that
It has no special power
To do you harm
It's your actions that count

If you don't like the effect
Don't produce the cause

nice one funkadelic!

thats a good jam

Yeah, I used to sing that song to myself when I paddled out on the bigger days.

Now, it pops into mind as I consider how I will tell my wife I want to bring my stick when we drive down to So Cal for next week.

There must be 100 or more black Jetta's in this town, including E's of course. I was yelling at Jay from Mollusked Face Surf Sunshine HappyDonutShop. I spied her tip-toeing around and about to let the air out of Thomas Campbell's white Ford Econoline surfgroovecamp/livevan that he religiously parks between Neeriega and Noriaga. Jay hurridly ran back to his car when I caught him. He drives a rusty all white Honda Civic from 1994.
The deal with Bagel and E claiming 'Slayer's' pic is pretty uncool - were you kidding around or what? I want you all to know that Big Red Board died today. Busted leash at Point Dume and into the rocks and far cove she went - all busted up; she will not ride again. Surfed Ricnon this morning EPIC. Not crowded, overhead, clean, sunny. Guess what else was going off?

One more hour and I am on V A C A T I O N. Yahooooo!

Bob - Sorry to hear about your board! ....also note that neither E nor bagel commented on Slayer's pic. How come you say dat???

Rockin in Sonoma Co. on the these south winds days!!!!

dont cancel the blog - have some fun reformatting it. sure, doesnt change anything fundamental, but it'll feel good. and different.

I struggle with the knowledge that any secret spot I find anywhere in the world will get more crowded, that my desire to surf alone gets harder and harder to satisfy. And that I'll be fifty next year, and ten years from now, it's gonna be harder to surf than it is now.

there's an island I've been to. empty. off the map. was my hedge - the place I was going to surf alone on my 60th birthday. this year it got a surf camp, pics in the surf zines, the whole deal. it's over. it'll take a few years to find the next one. and I gotta take two months off from wife and kids to do it, probably - these places take some finding.

another one: in April i went to Chile w/a friend. overnight on the plane. four hours in the car. lots of hassle to get into the ranch. and as we tool up to where we camped two years ago - this is my friend's all-time favorite spot, he's amped, cant wait to get out by ourselves in the water - there's the sign "welcome to XXX surf camp" - there's the bar, white dudes with dreadlocks, the whole frickin' scene (why is it, by the way, that every surf camp everywhere in the world plays Bob Marley all the goddamn time?)

change is good, I'm told. but sometimes, apparently, you have to dig hard for the lesson.

etc.

J

Heard it from the horses arse.

sorry about the board vibey. for the record i did not claim slayers pic! i am regular footed! and its not 2006 yet! its 2005 people! and ive never been to a place that looks like that! and slayer surfed about 10 times better than me! wo christmas anger.

love.

The deal with that picture of me was a silly misunderstanding. It turns out that "E" found a picture of me on Manny's website, whom I went on a trip with in October. He had no idea I was an SF surfer, so it's actually kind of flattering of all the photos of that trip, he picked the one of me pigdogging to use when he jokingly said "This is Bagel in 2006" or something (this was on last night's post). I emailed E directly and said, "I'm not 'Bagel' and how did you get that photo? I'M that guy, and here's the sequence to prove it." So, he put the whole sequence up, and now I'm kind of embarassed. Please do not examine or critque my waveriding skills too much; I'm a kook and we'll leave it at that. I get to go ice skating with my girlfriend now. Stoked!!

How has no one responded to that SNL video yet?! Funniest thing that show has put out in years.

Can crackheads be enlightened? Even George knows E, ultimately, we reap what we sow.

OOPS!

I forgot about Winter Break. No school for two weeks, yeah!

ill respond MCC. that is some funny shit.
i like google maps!
-thats a good one too!

right on Slayer.. sorry for any weirdness there.

shred on.

e
A nice cold Atlantic beach break ice scream head ache will bring a fresh appreaciation of our good fortunes here in northern California.
Keep the faith. Crowds come and go. Waves wil always come.

at least you guys have some surf and not rain. freakin' pouring buckets in Tahoe up to 9000'

Saw that SNL skit Saturday Night and agree -- Funniest thing they've done in years, for sure. I was wondering who wrote that piece -- they should get a big raise. Otherwise SNL's been blowing goats for the past few months or so.

--------------------------
I'm also very happy to announce that I only dropped in on 2 people in all of 2005! Once on purpose (some loud kook who needed it dearly) and once by accident (me the kook not seeing some guy coming around from behind-the-peak). Gold star and a sad-eyed puppy sticker for me.

Soooo....What's everyone else's personal "burn count" for 2005? Be honest, and BTW burning your bros does not count, has to be other surfers you don't know well (or at all).

Very low burn count for me in 2005. Three drop-ins. High ratio though as I only caught four waves :^(

whatever slayer, you have good style. definitely not a kook.

To all my friendzzzzzzzzzzzz. (A little Mickey Rourke there... Barfly.)

Happy holidays ya'll.

Here's the whole rap:
------------------------------
Lazy Sunday,
Wake up in the late afternoon
Call Parnell just to see how he's doin'
Hello?
What up, Parn!
Yo Samberg, what's crackin'?
You thinkin' what I'm thinkin'?
Narnia!
Man it's happ'nin'!
But first, my hunger pangs are stickin' like duct tape.
Let's hit up Magnolia and mack on some cupcakes.
No doubt, that bakery's got all the bomb frosting.
I love those cupcakes like McAdams loves Gosling.

Two! No, Six! No, Twelve! Baker's Dozen!
I told'ja that I'm crazy for these cupcakes, cousin!
Yo, where's the movie playin'?
Upper West Side, dude!
Let's hit up Yahoo Maps to find the dopest route.
I prefer Mapquest!
That's a good one too.
Google Maps is the best!
True that! Double true!
68th and Broadway.
Step on it, sucka!
What you wanna do Chris?
snack attack, mutha----!

The Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!
Yes, the Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!
We love that Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!
Pass that Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!

Yo, stop at the deli.
The theatre is overpriced!
You got that backpack
I'm going to pack it up nice.
We don't want security to get suspicious!
Mr. Pibbs and Red Vines equals crazy delicious.
Reach in my pocket and pull out some dough,
Girl acted like she never seen a $10 before!
It's all about the Hamiltons baby
Throw the snacks in a bag and I'm Ghost like Swayze.

Roll up to the theate
Ticket buying what we're handling,
You can call us Aaron Burr from the way we're dropping Hamiltons
Parked in our seats movie trivia's the illest!
"What Friends alum starred in films with Bruce Willis?"
We had the dope facts, it was scary:
Everyone stared in awe when we screamed Matthew Perry!
Then quiet in the theatre or it's gonna get tragic
We're about to be taken to a dream world of magic

In the Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!
Yes, the Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!
We love that Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!
Pass that Chronic-what?-cles of Narnia!

------------------
"MR. PIBB + RED VINES = CRAZY DELICIOUS!"
= my favorite line.

True dat! Double true!

Hey Dem,

What's up with ocean 411?

Is it something more than a page?

You can call us Aaron Burr from the way we're dropping Hamiltons

some serious crowd right now
http://www.wavewatch.com/pages/cam.php?CamID=22&RegionID=6

Dennis and E
I still have a pair of 7 mil booties and 2 mil socks as a reminder of the colder north atlantic winter days.Hope you get some waves .

my Aquala drysuit has been gathering dust for over 10 tears now

In 1997 through 2001, ocean411.com used to be like a mini-Surfpulse or Blakestah thing (I had it set up with all the buoys and links, etc), but SurfPulse and Blakesath out-Blakestahed me so I just took it down (who needs all this forecasting?). Since then it's just been a repository for my portfolio and personal stuff, kind-of just sitting idle.

My band might use the server space when we finish our demo next month. Otherwise I'm thinking about reforming it to focus on other aspects of the SF scene: b/w photos of unusual natural things in SF (esp the ocean and beaches, forests, I love trees almost as much as waves) -- and also to maybe serve as an underground watchdog blog for acts of pollution in and around SF. I recently saw some total yuppie moron empty his antifreeze from his Mercedes SUV (those tank-like models) directly into the drain, so I jumped out and took his picture mid-act. So maybe some of that gonzo, vigilante type stuff. Something that, without preaching directly, says to people "look at the shit that goeson in this city, look at what ends up in our ocean and surf breaks." Thought-provoking, lot sof imagery but low on the verbiage (unlike my post today!).

Until then, just a grainy b/w pic of Noriega from Great Highway, circa 1998.

R.I.P. - Big Red

i love good trusted board meets a noble death story.

SLAYER,
You Rip. I've seen you ripping kellys, deadys, and fortys! your style is unmistakeable, and your tribal tattoos are still hella cool in my mind.

Please grow your hair out again.
Also, thanks for giving me so much spicy sausage back at Cal Poly. bubb will never find out. i love the salty taste combined with the bleach smell. yummy.

-Hot Dog Legs

thanks for the great blogging and for hosting a good thing, e.

the snl thing is funny. um, is it a take-off on a real rap video?

Word. Thanks E. I've been checking this blog daily through 2 jobs and 3 years of office time. I usually just read your post and scan for pics but my mornings are still separated before 10am and post 10am. Hope you can keep it going. And I'd for sure throw down a few bucks next year to see namer claimer dude owned out of here, if it ever came to that.

Happy Holidays.

Tucker

ill concur, if your the dude who totally seems to be into SLAYER and surfs around here, you do rip! super fast, light on your feet, nice style. been in your vicinity a few times one particulary small day last year i saw you destroy this little left, so cheers to you low key ripper guy with good musical taste!

">

the SNL video was funny for a minute, then it got older than a Weird Al video

e, you sound burnt out on the blog. whenever I burn out on something, I move on to something new. I burned out on surfing several years ago, and just cold turkey stopped. I started surfing again in the past year, and got some of the old stoke back, but, honestly, it's not the way it used to be. Nothing is ever the way it used to be: old girlfriends, old haunts, yer old stomping grounds, old hobbies. I think i'm going to give it up again and try kite surfing.

Anyways, time to re-evaluate the new year, bro. The blog will be missed, but, whatever...

Why is it so important to name
Why is it so important to claim
Why is it so important to own.

Good always wins over evil. Exploiters are evil. Shut up and surf. Blog away but don't name and don't claim...or you will get owned.

new low for the namer get's owned dude...get a grip!; and not on a gun!

That along with tt's 'tude are the problem today, not e's winter blues

Don't despair, e, fun surf sessions are out there! And it's rare, but there can be such a thing as a cooperative crowd.

"owned": you crossed the line. You are neither funny, nor cool, nor shocking. Knock off this juvenile bullshit and be a man. This means go find some surf, regardless of crowds or no crowds, good or bad conditions, just go, simply enjoy the experience and act like a decent human being. If you want any respect, that's how you're going to get it.

On that note...happy holidays to all, muchas olas, and viva le surf!

This fucking place has evolved to dis-evolve. That is the beauty of the thing.

Like a good Jason Kidd quote, "I hope to turn this thing around 360 degrees....."

Yeah, exactly. Marinate on that for about 6 seconds.

Merry Nut Sack Check to all! Enjoy the gift giving season and remember why you give gifts in the first place:

ITS ALL ABOUT THE POOOOO:

heres my dog getting owned last night by a 3 month old cat.

have a niceness holiday niceness. sweet dreams.

and while im at this free image hosting thing, here are a couple of those blacks shots..ho ho ho

yeah, let the blog RIP. merry new year. just surf in 2006

Nah, don't let the blog RIP. Just get rid of that namer's get owned dumbass by removing his posts.

e's just got seasonal depression. The rain, cold, crap weather has got him down.

Blacks is unbelieveable. Such a soft take-off for the quility/size of ride you get. Too bad it breaks like a reef and there is only one real peak. Best bet is to get it on big, crossed-up windswell - days when you don't think it will be good so noone makes the walk.
But on a big south - oh my, best wave in SD. Breaks for 100000000 yards. But you got to share it with literally hundreds of guys. Who are sponsered by surf companies or their parents.

ho ho ho

best of wishes and waves to all the niceness heads. and may all get their fix in '06.

E,
I dont think you are over it quite yet. Everyone in the crowd experiences the same problems. The kooks dropping in on accident. The dicks dropping in on purpose. The guy that is trying to shoulder hop but only crushing down the lip so the moment you think you have a perfect one to yourself...the fist section is ruined. Some choose to be the dicks or the novice in the wrong place. Show respect until it is not shown to you and then just be another guy in the crowd. what guy would you be??

Here's a couple of stories from down south about the swell.

http://www.signonsandiego.com/news/metro/20051222-9999-1n22surf.html

http://www.latimes.com/news/local/state/la-me-bigsurf22dec22,1,3560997.story?coll=la-news-state

Todos

Owned dude is warped. Nice Violence. Not.

Ripping harder than south almost due east back up river into the minus flood of the fabled cobblestone point. Waves are infrequent - a few hard and fast moments little time to prepare... 5-7-8' on the sets. Peeling 100 yards down the line inthesaltwaterbrineyfecalinfestedcalishit slime.
Born California. Named California. Claimed California. Own California.
"Over it," yeah right.

New Zealand's first artificial surfing reef is almost finished.

http://www.surf2surf.com/story2.php?story=15

Ethan, nicest-guy-in-the-world. You are under no obligation to keep maintaining this blog and shutting it down will not mean that you are giving up because of the dirt bags.

If it wasn't more work, you could consider a login routine to restrict access. Of course, it might get out of control with excessive niceness.

Give me a call if you head south.

Settle down Beavis...uh I mean Owned guy. So wrong on so many levels...

I'm going to Indo ... right ... now. I'll let you know how crowded the barrels are. Enjoy the rain and very large "waves."

Crowds at Swami's missed the good stuff: http://media.putfile.com/blacks

c'mon, if you're gonna put up videos, make them worth watching. that was the worst Blacks footage ever! it looked like O.B. on a shitty day.

Corescuzzi, I spoked to "The One That Got Away" in Kauai last May, and I reckon she still wishes you put inside.

My style IS unmistakeable: it's like Pam Burridge on steroids.

But I don't have any tattoos; you must be thinking of my buddy Kerry King.

Tuffy,
as Tyra would say, 'you so fierce'
dude, you aren't tatted up yet? come on, lets go get tatted.

stoked, there is even BIGGER surf on the way.
naples, bitches, naples!!

Burn out on surfing? Around here? no...

Rainy season's just begun. Then it's time for windy windsurf season. Then it's flat, foggy season.

jump! jump! jump! jump ... !

don't worry, anyone who drives a jetta is a fag

HEY ! Cheer up little bloggers, maybe all you lamenting lamentables should pack it up too. I hear there are still a couple tight little scenes up north you could help fuck up.

DENNIS TOWNSHIP-State Police are investigating a burglary that took place overnight Dec. 16 at Yo Dude! Surf and Skate on Route 9 in Clermont.

Detective Sgt. Karl Ulbrich said the thief or thieves broke through the front door and stole much of the store's surfing apparel along with a white surfboard with a yellow flower design.

Some of the clothing was recovered in a gravel pit off Siegtown Road in Middle Township.

Anyone with information about the theft is asked to call State Police at (609) 861-5698. Trooper Joseph Tietjen is investigating.

POO Alert

Ocean Beach
Foot of Sloat Blvd Station - Posted
Foot of Vicente Ave. Station - Open (I'm sure its crystal clean)
Foot of Pacheco Ave. Station - Posted
Foot of Lincoln Way Station - Posted
Foot Balboa Ave. Station - Posted

note: at first I was annoyed by this email I got this morning, f*ck*n' automated namers! But then I reached deep down and found some love and got past all this naming stuff. Besides, I wouldn't want Owner dude to get sick ;(

Did all the "Locals" go Home to L.A. for the Holidays?

i wish i had a home in LA to go to. or ventura or sb. or baja. surf is going to suck up here all week.

COME ON, BARCELONA, LET'S DESTROY THIS F*CKING PLACE!!!!

Hey Kaiser and the niceness crew... thought I would leave you all with a holiday present. Please enjoy!

http://flickr.com/photos/bagus/sets/921166/

no thanks to those SoCal beach bunny types bagus, I'd rather have this.

oh god.
bllllaahhhghghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhg (me yakking)

I haven't been posted for a while..

Only fags live in Frisco. Only fags drive Jetta's; only fags surf FP. Only fags write on the E blog; all fags come from Los; all tranny's are fags -- blah blah blah. Hey Namer. By any chance are you a George Bush loving Republican Fascist Christian Nazi? Can we get a picture and or profile on what you might look like? What kind of beat up old ass Toyota truck do you drive? Were you born or hatched?
Are you 1 of the countless surfers dressed in lace tennis shoes, saggy pants and a NOR CAL Hoodie? I see you standing there.

Okay, this is a serious question. Is a Mini Cooper a chick car? I really wanted to buy the Mini Sport, but I dunno anymore. I want to own one, but not in the way that one dude tries to own things.

dude the mini cooper is totally okay for men, I think Richard Simmons owns one.

Mini Cooper is not a chick car. However, it is not a surf car either, unless you only surf on a 5'6" fish.

Yeah, george michael has one.

and richard gere and his hamster

Did anyone hear Richard Simmons on Howard Stern reruns this am? Or Al Michaels? Fricking hilarious.

Old H. Stern is pretty funny.

MINI-POOPERS RULE !!!

YAY ! WE LOVE MINI-POOPERS TOO !

That was funny.

Why are the admin stuff always the most stressed out people in the office.

Merry Christmas, y'all. Happy wave hunting.

these paintings by jessica dunne

I knew it! an RB bro is on here!

What's an RB bro?

if that's advertising anything it's to join a gym or climb a few stairs with those scurvy-ass chicken legs.

Just go to that site, and you'll see what I mean. I knew there were some fucking perv's on here. That NGO guy is definitely a perv.

why was the current pushing north so strong today on the outgoing tide. it sucked

true about that current; it took me two blocks to (finally) get out. only a couple other surfers and a bodyboarder in sight where i was noon-ish. a couple fun ones. i took the lip of the set of the day on the ass for a long hold-down... good to be in the water.

Christmas Eve---->

Great fun in the waves today.

Water warm, didn't stink.

Swell aplenty.

Offshore winds.

Inside shorebreak was a bastard, but easy going once past it.

Only dropped in on once, but not a problem as it turned out.

Caught a few screamers.

Best wishes everyone.

serious inside and size outside today. Saw a guy get way shacked a couple times inside. Outside started out really big and consistent enough to line up. With the size and swell, way speed even on the backoffs. The plume and chop added to the challenge. Almost great, glad I was out. Now for more episodes of victory at sea.

ok, speaking of gay cars, what about a Porsche Boxter? My boss is selling his old one for real cheap. Does that car scream out gay?

no... it screams out eunuch !

or at the very least bi-curious.

Speaking of gays i wonder how much gay sex was going on behind that guy in 1975. must a been a regular bath house in the bushes back then.

Why do gay guys get to have cool cars? Miata's are great, well balanced sports cars that are really fun to drive. The Mini is nearly the same, but much more of a "go-cart" feel. The Mini Cooper S is a little rocket.

Come on, gays can have all the Audi TT's and Volkswagon Cabriolets, give us hetero guys the real sports cars!!

Listen, while e is gone, this board should remain more or less what it always is. Not a place for a clearly homophobic/homocurious anon poster who can't stop jerking off to his large supply of gay .gif files, and posting them for the rest of us to view.

Try to realize that Bay Area straight surfer dudes comfortable with their sexuality aren't offended nor really interested in gay pics, accusations that they are gay, or insinuation that living and surfing here makes us gay.

Keep it to surf related topics, m'Kay? If you can't stand it, try posting somewhere else where your view of homosexuality will be more greatly appreciated...

Surfseeker7, I want to hump you.

Bay Area straight surfer dudes? Did you just copy and paste that straight out of your craigslist casual encounters post? Looking for....

well, i'm not about to post my name, but even though the Mini has got that reputation as being a chick car, I'm gonna get one. I just test drove it, and it's so fun to drive. It does feel like a go-cart. I haven't had that much fun driving a car in a long time.

Some dude got totally attacked by a Great White:

http://hosted.ap.org/dynamic/stories/O/OREGON_SHARK_ATTACK?SITE=HIHAD&SECTION=HOME&TEMPLATE=DEFAULT

Sharks are so flaming gay, but wouldn't it be some ironic shit if that namers get owned guy got his ass chomped by a shark? I'd laugh at that.

it's really funny when you guys spread hatred on e's blog. are you laughing you're ass off? how about now? i think you should keep posting and pissing everyone off. because everybody needs more dumb fucks like you around - because there aren't enought of you already, right? all you haters are weak. i blame your hapless parents, then you for not figuring out you suck and need to pay a professional to straighten you out.

Hypocrisy is the act of pretending to have beliefs, virtues and feelings that one does not truly possess. The word derives from the late Latin hypocrisis and Greek hupokrisis both meaning play-acting or pretence. The word is arguably derived from hypo- meaning small, + krinein meaning to decide/to dispute. A classic example of a hypocritical act is to denounce another for carrying out some action whilst carrying out the same action oneself.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypocrite

Baker Beach Bad Boyz (BBBB) gonna beat you down.

KCLB fVCk yous!

A word to claimers, let someone else like a friend or better yet stranger do your claiming for you. To you it may have felt like a 10ft barrel or a ripping tail slide but you don't know how it looked to the rest of the world. You may have felt like you were the best bellringer texas tech ever had, but the rest of the world saw this...
http://www.ebully.org/files/videos/ringmybell.wmv

sorry to interrupt the gay obsession here but there's a pretty solid piece on Ireland on Surfline.com and 2 of the photos are credited to Lewis Samuels, I just wondered if it was the same star of this blog. Nice photos. Such disclosure is probably controversial, but that whole website is pretty namer central. Surfline must have really solid firewalls set up against the compulsive heckler sociopaths.

Good for that oregon shark attack guy for surviving but I saw him on CNN and he's acting like a kook IMO. FYI the shark didn't split because you punched it dude, it split because it figured out you weren't a seal. Don't tempt fate by talking big about how you punched the shark, tough guy.

same lewis. he also scored waves in Greece of all places.

I appreciate the recent note regarding etiquette in the lineup, and I
think something else needs to be added, particularly in this time of
huge swells. Several people were killed up and down the coast on
Wednesday and Thursday, one being a guy on a waverunner at the
rivermouth at Ventura Point. In addition, there were several beginners
out on Thursday/Friday who were utterly unable to handle the swell and
current, and my neighbor T-boned one of two who dropped in on him on one
nearly double overhead right at the Pipe, smacking him right between the eyes and sending him to the hospital.

It's great that so many people are enjoying surfing, but surfs schools
are obviously neglecting to teach not only etiquette (I don't know how
many times I surfed Middles on a good sized south swell this summer only
to have some instructor call his students into the wave in front of me
after I was already in the groove, students who would inevitably fall in
a tumble of arms, legs, board and leash, causing mahem), but they are
also neglecting to give their students some notion of WHEN they should
and should not be paddling out, and what kinds of boards would work
better for them if they do choose to take their lives into their hands
and enter the current, only to be washed 200 yards southward and through
the pier. The incident involving my neighbor was a great example of
combined lack of etiquette and abject stupidity on the part of the two
beginners who dropped in on him. Watching guys struggle to shove 10'6"
noseriders through the 10-foot walls of whitewater on Big Wednesday
would have been comical had it not been for the danger inherent to the
situation.

This is a great sport that should be enjoyed by everybody on whatever
kind of board or contraption they choose to ride. It is also a
dangerous sport that requires a good deal of thought to prevent enjury,
and as my friends and I saw last Thursday when the guy on the waverunner
was pitched into the fog by a cleanup set and killed, sometimes even death.

Ken

This is a copy and paste from surfline. There is no middles. You are talking socal homey. However, good point, but I never see any surf schools around this ways...

surfseeker, let it be. You really do not have to be the hallway monitor for this message board.

I am not one of them.

"chile" was looking kind of crowded but fun this afternoon. I passed because of the crowd & the reputation for hassles, (actually I've never paddled out there) but man its a sweet wave when its working.

anyone have Hb's email address? i'm thinking of taking a break from the rain and heading south this weekend.

you can hit me at "waverhythmlife AT gmail"

Todays surf brought to you by Mad Namers Lib.

The surf in our fine metropolis left for few options so a drive (time = ## minutes, which if I was to say could be construed as naming and thus its simply a ##) was in order. Got the (insert casino mechanical drug of choice designed for minimal thought HERE) on a dropping tide. It was clean, a couple feet overhead on set with about 10 folks littered throughout. As the tide dropped the river of (insert noun relating to waste) water and foam picked up speed and everyone struggled to stay in position. Conditions fell apart quickly.

Moved on to the (insert it into the fish here) which was beautiful. Lines as far as you could see just marching straight at the onlookers, but something was missing. Surfers. Conditions were totally clean. A few were struggling around so I took it as a sign, for the moment, and checked (2^5 + 2^2) and saw shortboarders where there are usually longboarders, looked like fun, but not as good as the spot I just saw or as big (oddly). So, into the wetsuit (literally, brrr) and into some powerful lines that seemed to go forever. It was borderline glassy, not quite human sized barrels, but a few with otherwise top-to-halfway-down waves that again were a few feet overhead. Everyone was in good spirits. Because of the size and girth of this swell, takeoff zones were everywhere, so there were few drop-ins and the vibe was open, one might say there was some niceness goin on.

There were even a few Happy (insert holiday of choice here).

there are plenty of places to escape the crowds between Pt Reyes and the Oregon border. If you seek solitude and no crowds, you can always find it - you just need to know when, how and where to look. It's still out there.

NGO guy hates himself for cruel homosexual urges deep within, so he terrorizes this blog for distraction. At least you aren't as lost as your uncle, the Unibomber. Hatred feels good for the moment, but there are more effective ways to deal. We don't hate you, tortured soul.

....and he voted for bush and is heavily invested in pharma stocks. Fucking scumbag that guy.

Hope everyone had a great x-mas, got some good gifts and ate some great food. Work is going slow so I signed up for Rhapsody so i could check out some of the bands that Ive been hearing about. Jamming to My Morning jacket now. Any other jam/indie suggestions out there? Also, any stories from SoCal? I heard there were a few deaths and many rescues (130)on big Wed. Any first hand accounts?

traut,

ever heard of hella? check 'em out. also, mars volta has a kinda indie/jam feel.

why aren't the two southernmost lights on grt hwy synchronized anymore. fucking annoying.

Traut: it's 145+ rescues and a coupla deaths in SoCal at the latest count. Sounds to me like a massive collection of inept TOOLS are paddling out down there. I'm sure the Coast Guard et al are thrilled with all the kooks who've convinced themselves they're rad and went in way over their heads. ;^)

traut - for new tunes go to www.pandora.com and type in your favorite band.
Also for some new tasty jams check out tea leaf green at the independent.

Fucking-a winge. - Lately this Niceness reading has been more like a bad trip down Castro Street 1977. My Dad said NOT to get out of the car (I was wearing red OP val shorts)...
- 17 years old and naive as all get out...
These cats writing all the vitriolic anti-gay behind the windmills-buttfucking -ass slapping-psychosexually repressed comments, I hate to say, do need a serious ass-jam. A Rhino rock ass-jam.Or how about A HUGE COCK!!!!!!!???????????

The blog. Blog. E man should post a newer page - leave it blank (no access) for a week until he returns. How rapidly the topics have tumbled into dead seal bile.
I am in favor of the site as it gives us local folks a forum in which to vent our innermost anger and work through these things civily. E should NEVER post pictures of the beach; and NEVER mention the beach by name. There is no need to speed up the general demise of our once tranquil surfing environment.
Who are we? I have met too many new people - every one of them, nearly, is cool and they represent every state and every city in the Union. Never judge a book by its cover...
Yes, even Skeletor breathes air and bleeds red...

Agnes being sociable? Almost fell off my chair, but it was refreshing.

And Ken is right. I was in a surf shop in San Diego a few years ago talking to a young guy. I mentioned that I was from NorCal an he said he REALLY wanted to drive north and surf Mavs.

I'm the first to admit that I'm a BWP (big wave puss) but I haven't drowned recently. I think it's important not to talk macho with young/new surfers and downplay the risk. The local beach is deadly and other spots like M-Scara and Smoke-a-Jay are nearly as bad. Been there, been worked.

Agnes, I hope that doesn't qualify as naming.

Little surf report:

Didn't see OB, but went south on the off chance something was sheltered. ****ajay was a sight, humungous brown lines grinding in slow motion from the horizon. I thought boat****s might be working for a little longboarding, but nope, the swell pretty much missed it, and plus the low tide was killing it (2pm or so), and the winds were no longer south.

If you were really desperate to get wet, the jetty (I refuse to asterix the jetty) might have been good for a longboard, especially a longboard with a bunch of foam on the top. Kind of surprised no one was out.

And I turned around, didn't feel like making the trek way south.

And thus concludes this incredibly informative report.

fake or real?

what's the obsession with that chick??

saggy face firm boob-FAKE!

real

i watched some surf near there a few days back. some pretty big ones out the back, hard to see from the lot, but a lot of weirdness, plenty of dropping in, and all lefts. didn't actually make me jones to be in with the multitudes.

She is the best thing going on this blog!

Friendly Agnes, I will throw up a blank post if I can find the freakin log in to do it.

Then, you guys can all talk Happy New Year shit and which beach has the best floating poo and what not. Skip the gay bashing, leave that to the red-necks and inner-Americans.

She looks pretty f*%kin good for a late thirties/early forty something woman. fake

Bonjour

Monster Swell Monster Swell Monster Swell

That is all the local news could say while I was down in the OC.

Surfed Santa Ana River Jetties with very friendly people. Very very very fast rights. In other words, closeouts. Never more than just overhead on the sets. 26,27,28th.

When I told one dude I was from SF, he asked if I drove down. I said yes, and he asked if I stopped by MAV's.

I said that it is like 20 minutes away, and no I did not stop by.

People were wearing hoods and gloves down there on the 28th, and I felt bad about wearing booties.

Interesting difference in lingo. The waves were "Walled" rather than close-outs, and it was all about finding the "corners" rather than the shoulders.

Feels good to be back home even though it looks like a total mess out front.

Awesome!

have you ever seen anything more beautiful than her!!! the photo on the left... profile, breasts protruding, tight stomach, jeans hugging nicely. what a babe. she may even be better without all the makeup. peace to all in 06 and KEEP PIMPIN' AND BURNIN'

egp

Howz the waves been lately guys??? Only one good weekend in the Bay Area for Dec, and the rest of the days are like crapped out, rained on, blown out. This will continue through March. I can see why they call OB surfers hardcore. You gotta be core to put up with the shitty conditions for so damn long.

well there are other spots that work when ob isn't on.....

swwweeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

kaiser,
how about a blank page for the end of 2005 so we can all start naming, claiming, and getting OWNED!!!

owned

Common, let's hear one of you sensitive fucks tell us all about how you tried to return some shorts or some shit, maybe how you had trouble with the store and felt discriminated against, or something. Or how you like this great new leash plug, or found some cool obscure burrito joint on the way back from pilates.

most booties won't fit over my hammertoes

jesus i just saw a perfect wave in a not so perfect break

I am going to cuddle up with my girlfriend, put on my jammies, puff puff give, cook some nice fresh food, and chill out....

Others?

Ummm, Afghanistan and Iraq and Japan. Thats who jesus would bomb, shithead.

Pretty crazy Great White shark story in Hawaii:

http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20051231/NEWS11/512310330

Estimated at 18 feet long, the biggest White shark ever caught was 21 feet.

I thought that I left all of the White Sharks behind when I came out here...

That dude who got out of the cage was an idiot.

TJ, you live out in Hawaii? Move from the Bay Area? You left the Great Whites for the Tigers. I don't know which one is worst. Perry Dane caught an 18 foot Tiger far off the North Shore. They get almost as big as White Sharks, but they're much more aggressive.

It really just comes down to the head case... it is illogical to worry about a shark attack. When I am floating alone out there, I can look down and see that there are no sharks around, but in SF all I see is dark evil cold blackness.

SF is much safer - reefs kill far more surfers than sharks do.

thanks for the pandora rec

personalizing a yahoo music radio station is also worthwhile

hey, feliz ano nuevo amigos.

My God!
Devolution to the point of a 'coyote note' left with a gnawed off arm under some tranny's head in the outer Richmond. When will this madness stop?

Bad sickness from a Sewer Session at Lindy's. Beware the Bacteria! It ain't worth it...

i want to surf.

cowells looked like mundaka (reversed) earlier this week. just smaller.