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surrf.

Surfed yesterday.
Best wave was my first wave.
Long, powerful open face.
Let out a little, "Oh yeah!" to myself at the end.
Wiped out on a few solid ones.
Sat for a long time while not catching anything.
I will always be a barney kook.
Forgot my earplugs so imagined that my inner-ear bone was growing rapidly.
Probably was.
Briny, chemical-tasting foam.
Watched some impressive surfing.
Inspiring and humbling.
Got caught inside.
Sucked and pulled all the way in toward the beach.
Arggh. Decide to call it a session even without a last ride.
A bit frustrated and disallusioned as i walk to the car.
The 15 seconds of riding was fun.. but.. the paddling, the duckdives, the beat-downs, the crowd dynamics, the sore back. Maybe surfing isn't all that great.
But a few hours later, in the shower, it started creeping back in.
Memories of the few smooth carving moments.
Watching conical waves twist and throw down the line.
The desire for progression and improvement.
Just the bad-ass nature of the act.
Tossing yourself over the ledge.
Surfing can't be denied.

4 photos from wavescape


first

Posted by: john at January 12, 2006 09:33 AM

just a pug here for alex martins surf repair.

I got a couple of boards fixed by him and they were not easy fixes. On one board the tail was shredded,

He fixed them both and they surf GREEEEEEAT again


good guy, fair prices!!!

Posted by: phil at January 12, 2006 09:35 AM

I prefer Phil McCrackin ding repair.

Posted by: obro at January 12, 2006 09:54 AM

I feel you. Those good waves are like pain, if you remembered them percisely, you'd either go crazy or be in La La Land all day. Mother ocean cleaned up nicely today.

Posted by: had fun this morning too at January 12, 2006 09:55 AM

Posted by: namers and claimers get owned at January 12, 2006 10:02 AM

I get wave amnesia for good waves. I often can't recall them right after the wave. It takes a while for my memory to come together

Posted by: Joe O at January 12, 2006 10:05 AM

I'm with phil on the Alex endorsement. He was very quick too...had my board ready in less than a week.

Posted by: Q at January 12, 2006 10:06 AM

DOH!! My surf buzz was ruined this AM when I got to my tendernob apt and realized i left my bocchi balls at an OB parking lot. If anybody found these, shoot me an email and I will pay you a 20$ reward.

Posted by: traut at January 12, 2006 10:11 AM

that girl's coffee got to third base.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 10:14 AM

And dp'ers this morning? My prognostication skillz called this morning as the best surf day in the course of two weeks. I'm interested to know how that turned out. Also, do not over-claim or name, or the monkey will carry you away like a scared puppy.

I'm also claiming the first tour of Saturday morning to watch the 500lb elephant seals breeding in Ano Nuevo. It'll remind me of my first time.

Posted by: Andrew in Jack London Square at January 12, 2006 10:25 AM

Posted by: kaaba at January 12, 2006 10:48 AM

Does anybody know who that guy is that's always at Kelly's lot? He drives a blue and gray van, 50ish, kinda long scragly hair, bb'er I think. I've seen him almost every day for the past year. I think he lives at the beach in his van. Just curious. I'm gonna surf this weekend for the first time since 12/26. Psyched.

Posted by: Dennis at January 12, 2006 10:55 AM

I know the feeling of bones getting bigger in my outer ear canal. Anyone been drilled recently? I need a recommendation for a surgeon to do the deed. 99% closure in both ears. Da Nile is not just a river in Africa. Time to go under the drill ( or the chisel) Someone that will take Health Net a plus.

Posted by: Mexcohen at January 12, 2006 10:55 AM

The guy with the van is Gilbert, nice guy, twitch and all.


Posted by: Mexi at January 12, 2006 11:01 AM

Jan. 12 (Bloomberg) -- At least 345 people died today during a stampede at the Hajj pilgrimage in Mecca, the Saudi Arabian health minister said.

Posted by: this happens every year at January 12, 2006 11:02 AM

Hooray! We have surf talk.....

Swell: 8.2 ft @ 11 sec
Wind: E, 5 kts
Tide: neg. low @ 4:00 p.m.
- Do the math! Plan accordingly. I suspect lots of current.

Find the alien:

Posted by: Kaiser at January 12, 2006 11:05 AM

ANy opinions on this pic, is it lame or interesting?? Is it obvious what is going on??

Posted by: inquiring minds want to know at January 12, 2006 11:08 AM

cool photo by mexi. but. maybe not vague enough to be vogue?

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 11:12 AM

I love the pic. Ft Point all over.

Posted by: J at January 12, 2006 11:12 AM

kaiser's girl must be quite a talented shredder...I see there's no leash on her board.

Posted by: otf at January 12, 2006 11:14 AM

yes. VERY talented! I'm in love.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 11:18 AM

the crack in the windshield is distracting

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 11:19 AM

Admitting, realizing and accepting the fact that you're a BarneyKook does not excuse you from local ob ridicule. Note: You can be the best surfer in the world like me and still be a kook. I am not a kook I am a GOD.
Futhermore, you're posting yesterday, the beat a dead horse music studio thing still deserves and apology. You do not know it yet but you have the FPG KCLB & Avenue Coalition gangs pretty fired up. Some of them want blood. I have asked for calm.
Like the godless idol worshipers of the Bush'soil-grabmiddle-fuckediup-east your followers will be crushed underfoot unless you pay homage and honor the locals by writing a retraction to your "fiction"
yesterday. You hit too close to home with some of these 'oh where did I get this?' details. I call bullshit on you not knowing who X is.
In a totally unrelated matter the little girl pictures posted by Kaiser remind me of tight asses that can barely shit out little round turds. Why not post some real fucking women!
And hey! Malibu Mike, the padded cell is for real dude, not in my head but all around us.
See you in the lineup. Nice pick of Willow.
Doink.

Posted by: Ire Liar at January 12, 2006 11:22 AM

Andrew, fun ones in SF this morning. Offshore, a little warbly and sectiony, overhead sets, some steep takeoffs, very little current, sunny. Looked like the onshore whitecaps were coming in as I left.

I can remember specific waves from 40 years ago. One in particular was the first time I did multiple rollercoasters (is that a dated term or what) on my deep v-bottom with Slipcheck™...'68 I would guess. I also remember my first toes over the nose hang ten around '65. They still feel good.

Nice pic Mexi. Fun to park there on a big day and let the waves crash over your car. Not great for the paint though.

Posted by: kdalle at January 12, 2006 11:25 AM

bob, you're living in a fantasy within a fantasy.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 11:33 AM

I think an interesting pic. Probably more so with contrast b/w how it would be viewed by a surfer/non-surfer.

The crack in the windshield is only distracting if you are trying to check out the waves, IMO. Also kind of frames waves a bit I guess.

Posted by: tucker at January 12, 2006 11:41 AM

And who the frick are you?

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 11:42 AM

A guy with too much time on his hands....

Posted by: tucker at January 12, 2006 11:45 AM

Mexi, nice pic. Are you getting blown while taking it? Hence the fogged up windshield...

F the idiots who say it isnt vogue enough. how stupid is that? you must not take pictures of surf spots and post them on a surf blog. idiotic.

-tt

Posted by: tt at January 12, 2006 11:47 AM

kdalle,

Was it cold out there? I just got a new 4/3 Xcel, been wanting to test it out. Can't get out of my lazy ass dry paddle mode. I got spoiled by surf with large open channels lately.

Posted by: MSG at January 12, 2006 11:49 AM

Thanks, My wifes reactions was that the white streaks were distracting.

Posted by: Mexi at January 12, 2006 11:50 AM

"Nice pick of Willow..."
If you are going o claim, at least get it right, jackass!

Posted by: Dr. at January 12, 2006 12:09 PM

what about the coffe cup lid reflection in the upper right hand corner? that just destroyed it for me.

Posted by: Betty Duball (doo-ball) at January 12, 2006 12:09 PM

In that photo below the girl, I like the way the blue is next to the dark part. Those round things are neat how they're all small and white and everything. The lettering is also good how it's near the bottom but you can still see it clearly. The girl picture looks like she was someone who was at the beach eating a sandwich and the guy said "hey could you hold this board.." because the real model never showed up scared it might be some porn type deal.

Posted by: art dept. at January 12, 2006 12:12 PM

regarding the Forty pic- is that Andy Olive pitted on the inside wave? that guy is so great. people should worship him.

Posted by: tt at January 12, 2006 12:17 PM

MSG, not cold by SF standards. No headaches. It was an easy paddle at the time. 4/3 should be toasty. Do it if the wind is still calm.

Posted by: kdalle at January 12, 2006 12:27 PM

At last night's meeting of the Avenue Coalition we decided that Bob was a kook and is still not welcome at one of the two points. Furthermore, he does not ever, and has not ever, spoken for us individually or as a group. What comes out of his mouth belongs to him alone, and god bless you e for drawing his Ire, because you're taking one for the team.

Posted by: Avenue Coalition at January 12, 2006 12:30 PM

What's wrong with Willow. On the right swell, the channel is deep enough so that even a total kook newbie can paddle out with dry hair and try their hand at a beginner's left. Sure sometimes there is a bit more critical left down the way a bit, but that's for "experts only" no real beginners would like it there, too much elephant kelp maidens. I love picking them up, stroking their hair back, and acting like I have a real girlfriend. But who does not tire of Willow eventually and want to move on to a better wave? Sometimes the Dollar can make change, but the real waves are elsewhere. But they are regulated by tough guys, so you wont find me there, I am too scared of bodily beatings. Thats why I don't surf even Willow anymore. mOre of a spooks kook or a rosa posa... But county parks throws an occasional barrell for the super diligent. Just go tow Lef, because exotics is too tough and little rock is too inconsistent and mouse is too short. Try cardiacs for a thrill. Love ya and what haters have done to the sport that I now denounce except for fun beachbreak, uncrowded travel to locales, and stealth uncrowded moments at those spots.
Bruce, thanks for putting the site back up, us landlocked used to be surfers love to mind surf the lane. Even though it is ruled by west siders who may or may not like to smoke more rocks than they have to jump off to get to the line up.
Oh please just block me or something if I have offended, I just want surfer dudes to be nice to one another and share their spots. My opinion, and I own it
Mike

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 12:37 PM

coffee cup, steering wheel and crack bug me too, I'm working an another version.

Posted by: Mexi at January 12, 2006 12:37 PM

Man. No one works down here. There are way more rippers out mid-day than DP.

I was out alone with one other on a fun peak until this kinda-ripper and his 3 buddies show up. Got dropped in on twice by him and he yells at me! "You don't even live here!" hahhahh, yeah, i am just up the street fuckhead. "Well, i gave you the last right" he says. I told him loudly, at least I don't tell all my buddies where a good sandbar is.

Damn. Hate that out in the water, that is why i will surf alone as much as I can on a shittier wave. Just fucking ruins your whole session. Instead of aggro-paddling with these dudes I just sat on the inside and then went in. Guess he won and got what he wanted. Fuck him. Fuck his 3 buddies. Sorry to vent.

Glad you hooked into a good one E.

Posted by: Hb at January 12, 2006 12:38 PM

Man. No one works down here. There are way more rippers out mid-day than DP.

I was out alone with one other on a fun peak until this kinda-ripper and his 3 buddies show up. Got dropped in on twice by him and he yells at me! "You don't even live here!" hahhahh, yeah, i am just up the street fuckhead. "Well, i gave you the last right" he says. I told him loudly, at least I don't tell all my buddies where a good sandbar is.

Damn. Hate that out in the water, that is why i will surf alone as much as I can on a shittier wave. Just fucking ruins your whole session. Instead of aggro-paddling with these dudes I just sat on the inside and then went in. Guess he won and got what he wanted. Fuck him. Fuck his 3 buddies. Sorry to vent.

Glad you hooked into a good one E.

Posted by: Hb at January 12, 2006 12:38 PM

Man. No one works down here. There are way more rippers out mid-day than DP.

I was out alone with one other on a fun peak until this kinda-ripper and his 3 buddies show up. Got dropped in on twice by him and he yells at me! "You don't even live here!" hahhahh, yeah, i am just up the street fuckhead. "Well, i gave you the last right" he says. I told him loudly, at least I don't tell all my buddies where a good sandbar is.

Damn. Hate that out in the water, that is why i will surf alone as much as I can on a shittier wave. Just fucking ruins your whole session. Instead of aggro-paddling with these dudes I just sat on the inside and then went in. Guess he won and got what he wanted. Fuck him. Fuck his 3 buddies. Sorry to vent.

Glad you hooked into a good one E.

Posted by: Hb at January 12, 2006 12:38 PM

People do worship Andy Olive.I saw a guy in combat boots giving him a hand job by the windmill. I am pretty sure it was because of his frontside snaps.

Posted by: doobie at January 12, 2006 12:40 PM

whoa. sorry for that 3X post. guess i was pissed

where is after lunch bagel?

Posted by: Hb at January 12, 2006 12:46 PM

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oo o oo
oo. oo oo
'ooo. ..oo. ooo
o ''oo,, ,,oO-'Oo, ,,,,,oo'o
o. '''''' oo ''''' o
'o oo o'
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'o o o*
o o o
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o o o
o o o

Posted by: ·((•))°º((. .))º°((•))· at January 12, 2006 12:46 PM

At the November meeting of the KCLB we decided that the next time Bob spoke for us we were sending Truelove after him. You have stomped on the wrong turf, Carrillo, and you will answer to Bobby T!

Posted by: KCLB at January 12, 2006 12:46 PM

We had the Kellys Cove Local Girls meeting last night at the Riptide. We welcomed Hunter, The Slayer, Simon, and Kiwi Jason into the club.

KCLG's unite!!

Andy Olive is so hot, and he surfs so good that it is OK he is such a Tool in the water.

Posted by: tt at January 12, 2006 12:53 PM

(.) (.)

Posted by: tt at January 12, 2006 12:58 PM

I like those shots of Mecca during the Haj. Scary, huge crowd. It makes Easter Sunday morning at Saint Peter's Square look like Dead Man's in July.
Oh Shit! I named! I claimed! I'm OWNED!
Like Dennis, I'm stoked at the prospect of getting in the water later today after a long layoff.

Posted by: Jimmie at January 12, 2006 01:10 PM

yo hb i was waiting for the cable guy at my house. fucking 8-12 my ass, shit head shows up at 11:45. and on my way to work i see a guy get a pretty much stand up dry barrel, and than a very hallow left that spit quite powerfully. surfing is slowly starting to seep into my brain again. sorry about the bone head in the water at least you gave him a bit of your mind, and for the record you are scoring way harder than us up here.

MHO about the mexi pick is; i think thats the only way to get a good shot of FP. ooooo..i like the whole stormy feel though and i thought the white streak was a steering wheel..

Posted by: after lunch bagel even though coffee was my lunch at January 12, 2006 01:22 PM

Posted by: namers and claimers get owned at January 12, 2006 01:24 PM

Mexi - I like the pic (except for the steering wheel and coffe mug reflection). At first I thought that the crack was some sort of alien spacecraft zooming under the bridge.

Posted by: traut at January 12, 2006 01:44 PM

My take on the mexi pick:
I like pics with layers; I like the car in the foreground, I like the separation of man from nature, with man's barrier a bit cracked. I like the aspect of waiting (coffee cup) in adverse conditions (rain) and the craked windshield as sacrifice. I would have liked to have seen the rearview in the frame to give more closure, more of a trapped feeling.

You gotta give mexi credit for going out and finding a shitty car with a cracked windshield just to take that pic

Posted by: Andrew in Jack London Square at January 12, 2006 01:45 PM

The crack is a bit bright but the difussion is cool. I'd photoshop the crack outta there.

Posted by: Dennis at January 12, 2006 01:49 PM

I know this guy Phil McCrackin who along with ding repair fixes windshields.

And likes men.

Posted by: obro at January 12, 2006 02:01 PM

Hey, we have blogs too! You can come over to our site and critique everything: www.siskel&ebert.com

Posted by: Siskel & Ebert at January 12, 2006 02:27 PM

What the hell is up w/ the wave amnesia thing?
Deep tubes and mellow waves being the exception,
I can remember 100's of waves at my hometown reef kicking out over the shoulder after a faily long ride and not being able to remember anything but the drop?

Posted by: cosmo at January 12, 2006 02:34 PM

i like the crack. it captures something about our essence as surfers, namely that many of us are broke and lazy.
i am, however, noticing an increasing trend of describing, naming and displaying spots (as well as names of individuals) that are better left alone. maybe it is in response to, revolting against the namers claimer guy. seriously, ever since you've been posting, namer claimer asshole, there has been more not less naming going on. so anyway, i kinda agree with the vague is vogue comment. i would love the photo if i was over at mexi's house kickin it with him and his wife and he showed it to me. seeing it on this blog does make me cringe a little.

Posted by: steamwand at January 12, 2006 02:37 PM

siskel's dead dude.

Posted by: r.i.p. at January 12, 2006 02:38 PM

I was in New Jersey wathcing CNN News over Christmas and they were showing surfers under that exact bridge.

Posted by: Dennis at January 12, 2006 02:47 PM

just because it's on CNN doesn't make it vogue. CNN should get owned.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 02:50 PM

wave amnesia is all your senses living so in the moment, you are one with the uni and thats just too much for our pea brains to recollect.

Posted by: PNW at January 12, 2006 03:06 PM

but seriously.

surfing is fun.

mostly.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 03:06 PM

nice one PNW.

Posted by: e at January 12, 2006 03:09 PM

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 03:18 PM

yes please

Posted by: e at January 12, 2006 03:19 PM

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 03:20 PM

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 03:20 PM

blog life. random coincedences. funny. growing up i was allowed a 100 mile radius to go surfing without having to ask for special permission from my parents. from my grom hood home a 100 miles north put me in that parking lot with Mexi a hundred miles south put me in the chunky left with the elephant kelp and abalone pipe craftsman. and of course all the beauty in-between. i said it first VAGUE IS VOGUE!

ps:i like the shot. it's such an honest view of what surfing is up here in northern central CA. the pics got soul IMHO.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 12, 2006 03:27 PM

Lorazepam helps me chill out

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 03:31 PM

Wave amnesia, yes. Often seems like the ride went by in the blink of an eye. I'd attributed it to the fact that my rides go by in the blink of an eye. And to the beatings.

Haven't been in since xmas eve. I love ya, tomorrow?

Posted by: kloo at January 12, 2006 03:33 PM

I am a huge proponent of vague is vogue, but it is pretty hard to keep a 'secret' spot a secret when it is located at one of North America's most recognizable land marks. Somehow I think the hundreds of daily visitors will see the spot whether a pic of it is posted on this blog or not. Go figure!

Posted by: vague is vogue at January 12, 2006 03:40 PM

Indeed, the crack seems to speak to that little insecure streak in each of us, that keeps us from clawing over the ledge or makes us hit the snooze button instead of dp-ing it some dark cold morning. It's the chink in our armor, as warriors of the water, that destiny may await us on a rainy outcrop underneath a bridge. As keepers of this lonely majestic domain, one must keep present and listen to that inner voice that taunts us in the face of danger, and overcome the inner pessimist that could just as easily be seen in the innocent crack in a windshield.

Posted by: stool sampler at January 12, 2006 03:49 PM

awesome appraisal stool sampler

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 03:52 PM

fluff

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 04:02 PM

fluff

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 04:02 PM

"lonely majestic domain"

are you talking about surfing?!

Posted by: flatulence at January 12, 2006 04:11 PM

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 04:18 PM

love that girl's eyes.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 04:22 PM

Lately the creekers who live in the canyons have been selling soapstone pipes, but admittedly, only when their hands get warm enough to carve. Sad existence, exposure must age you extremely. And these dudes the only locals of the spot, don't even surf.

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 04:31 PM

Meaningless,
yet divine & beautiful,
I walk through this life

connected in every step
to an infinite web of energy,
the Universe.

Do Not Ask Why,
because silence is the Answer.

Do Not Ask, but
Wonder & Respect.

Be Conscious of your Being
(All)
or Not. You Still Are.

Would you look a gift life
in the Mouth?

Posted by: pizzaislove at January 12, 2006 04:37 PM


Posted by: at January 12, 2006 04:38 PM

George Steinbrenner

Jerry Buss

Jack Oneill

Posted by: owners get named at January 12, 2006 04:41 PM

sick sailing/surfing story at surfermag.com

Posted by: traut at January 12, 2006 04:48 PM

i think i just got the sweetest stand up barrel.but now i'm not sure.damm pea brain shooter.here and now.im with you P.N.W.

Posted by: pot sticker at January 12, 2006 04:49 PM

i can never remember this backside air 360 i did one time. it was awesome though for sure.

Posted by: bagel at January 12, 2006 05:00 PM

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 05:04 PM

If only we could surf forever, after thirty years of scoring every wave imaginable, the waves will forget you like you never existed. maybe you didn't even exist at all only in your mind were you the king of the peak that week, So why fight over them or their locations. Post em, boast em, roast em and make the moast of them. It don't mean shit if we cant treat each other with more humanity and kindness. You surf gods, loathing lot regulators, stone throwers, glaring fools are much more transient and meaningless than even I. And I dont even surf, but i wish I did just so I could go get my ass kicked by people who want to call me a kook and get rocked by waves that are too big and powerful for my hiv riddled body. Posie the poseaur

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 05:05 PM

there is no need to be vogue

Posted by: nihilist autobahn at January 12, 2006 05:06 PM

wave amnesia is too many sensory inputs coming into your brain for it to be able to process them all, which leads to something that feels like a functional black-out.
Other times people will get tunnel vision because they can only manage to focus on one thing while they are overloaded with sensory inputs

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 05:12 PM

Posted by: Subwaze at January 12, 2006 05:15 PM

Posted by: sonny sharrock fan at January 12, 2006 05:32 PM

vague is wave, in french

Posted by: true coincidence at January 12, 2006 05:50 PM

Posted by: tribe called quest fan at January 12, 2006 05:51 PM

Les vagues son belles. Nous sommes ici avec toi

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 06:15 PM

Posted by: namers and claimers get owned at January 12, 2006 06:19 PM

Posted by: jenn sterger fan at January 12, 2006 06:23 PM

enough with the chicks with the fake tits

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 06:58 PM

Speaking of Vogue, Madonna's new video is hideous. She looks great for her age but she doesn't look good as a 20 year old.

Posted by: Dennis at January 12, 2006 07:49 PM

I was the first person to post the 100th post on this blog last year.

Posted by: Dennis at January 12, 2006 08:38 PM

may you live and surf until you are 100, if that be what pleases thee

Posted by: at January 12, 2006 08:55 PM

May your camel have 100 teats!

Posted by: Jihad is for Lovers! at January 12, 2006 09:00 PM

dont you mean you love that girls eye?

Posted by: left eye at January 12, 2006 09:31 PM

go kaiser

Posted by: Brian at January 14, 2006 05:18 PM
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