Looked inviting.
Looked mouth-watering from the dunes.
But...
Tough to harness the succulence.
Spent a lot of time duckdiving random outside waves that would mush and not reform properly.
Took off late on a tight/crisp right and biffed hard.
Suckage.
Caught a few shreddable rights but didn't surf them with style.
On one ended up leaning too far on my front foot after having to push forward to get into the wave.
With flow compromised i wasted a corpulent section.
Lerm surfed well. Saw him bash the lip a few times.
I finally caught a nice left and had fun.
Then a really cool belly ride on the way in. All ze way to shore.
A beautiful morning, regardless of wave status or wave-riding ineptitude.
Lanquid, smooth water.
Gentle, offshore wind.
Sea-birds diving and gliding.
Colorful, inspired sunrise.
Relative emptiness in the lineup.
Cavernous barrels on parade.
Bracing, arctic water temp.
Good times.
-------------------------
A few posts from yesterday (mostly in regard to the guy who died surfing at Sloat on Sunday (Sean):
Ended up going out at lunchtime today where Sean ended up. I couldn't shake the vibe that had been cast for me...I didn't commit fully and tried to drop early but ended up sitting at the lip, then being taken over the falls and held down for about 20 seconds...long enough to start scratching...got a screamer after that and just headed in...
...came home and started trying to figure out why I was so bothered by this other than the obvious...made a few calls and as it turns out Sean's new loft is under mine. He was my neighbor.
I did not know him personally other than passing in the building.
I never saw him with a board, I've never seen anyone with a board in my building. But if I had...
I regret not knowing him.
I regret not knowing him and possibly helping him understand what little I have learned about the many personalities of that bitch OB.
OB can own you on a 2ft day low tide suck out or on a 10+ ft heaving sunny day.
Doesn't matter who you are, she will take when and how she wants to take.
I would like to challenge myself and each and every one of us to reach out to those who may be learning or relatively new to our surf community and look these people seriously in the eye - and inform them of how volatile, violent and irreverant OB can be. It's not a f-in sandbox, it's dangerous out there (both from conditions and from other people).
I think we owe that to Sean, ourselves and our community.
- MM
Foo was surfing with buddies, lots of them, and photographers and a huge audience and he still disappeared. Like blakestah said, unusual stuff happens. I was out at Sloat not long after he drowned. I didn't know it had happened. It was a fairly crowded day out there with lots of people on the beach and in the lots watching the surf. Even several photographers with telephoto lenses. People paddling in and out and yet no one saw him floating. It's all strange and sad. It's good to be out with a friend but at OB you have to behave as if you're out alone at all times. Even on a crowded day there may be no one there in time to save you.
- Kdalle
I was surfing with 2 buds when my knee went out.
They weren't anywhere close... and you know how that goes.
Stuff happens, and when it comes down to it, remaining calm and focused is most important.
Unfortunately, a newbie doesn't have the tools or confidence to roll with it... and, like Foo, even then it may not help.
I just found out that my surf bud's wife and new daughter where right there in the mix of Sean being pulled from the Sea.
I talked about it with her... about the rips, the risks, and so forth. I have no hesitation in reassuring her that I will look after hers. She knows... she, like my wife, know. You have to go, and, in return, I watch myself.
I'm also committed to having fun and reveling in what we're privileged to enjoy.
I'm looking forward to snapping some pix tomorrow.
That said, deepest sympathies to Sean's loved ones.
-SFKNeelo
I had a fucking awesome day. FUCK YEAH im so STOKED. Get in the water, get a fuckin nose-ride right, takes forever and it was BEA-FUCKING-UTIFUL!!!! and then i got a shotgun left and another fuckin right. a couple big ol drops but the waves closed out and i got stuck in whitewash, oh well. fucking so after that i come home, plop my ass in the hot tub and smoke a fat cigar. and after THAT my parents have cooked me up a fatty london broil and i fuckin pig out on prime ass juicy steak and salad and potatoes, and finish it all of with some grub ass chocolate cookies and FROSTING AND MILK!!!!! OH YEAH im feeling fucking good. best day ive had surfin for a long time. MEGA STOKE
- Brian
----------------------------
photos by Steve Fitzpatrick
Nice shots.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 24, 2006 10:00 AMDid surf, looked pretty good in certain parts of the beach. Talked with a couple of lizards, nice morning out there.
BT - Happy B-Day my friend!

Posted by: Kaiser at January 24, 2006 10:11 AM
Posted by: Kaiser at January 24, 2006 10:13 AMalways count on kaiser to post a pic of a nice piece of tail.
Posted by: otf at January 24, 2006 10:21 AMsomething that was said yesterday had me thinking
last evening.
"Scallan's aggressiveness wrt surf etiquette, esp. at some localized breaks, is quite legendary."
so "locals" can be assholes, drop in and what not?
and that is fine? but then would said 'locals' acting that way not
show "trannys" that 'this is how we act here, so it is okay.'
SEEMS A LARGE DOSE OF DO AS I SAY NOT AS I DO.
point being that everyone bitches about new people and
kooks and whatever else what if the "locals" were cordial
at the very least, to one another, would that not set a precedent?
now don't get all huffy. i am just asking a question.
Posted by: korewin at January 24, 2006 10:33 AMSo I turn 50 this week and went to the DMV to renew my license this morning.
Sir, we have you down as having blue eyes and BROWN hair?? Is it time to change that? Would you prefer "gray" or "white"?
Thank God I passed the vision test, it was sketchy at times. "Is that an O or a D?"
Good to meet you, sfkneelo.
Posted by: Bruce at January 24, 2006 10:33 AMBack to work, Kaiserstah, you have house payments to make!
what gives - where are kaiser's pics?
Posted by: i wanna see! at January 24, 2006 10:36 AMi found it really frustrating out there this morning. cruddiest session i have had in a long time, what with the yanking current, weird double-ups, sorta unpleasant crowd, and shifty peaks.
i have a blakestah or other knowledgeable person question about the sandbars:
Posted by: steamwand at January 24, 2006 10:41 AMso obviously these totally wacked sandbars/bottom contours were caused by our recent run of gynormo surf, but how do they get smoothed out? is it just a gradual process of drift? is there a seasonal component to the erosion and recreation of the bars? anyone enlightened on this matter?
Steamwand - No one has ever accused me of being overly knowledgable but, the large ground swells cause big currents that move the sand away from and alongside the beach during the winter. This completely changes the bars; destoying some and creating others. During Spring and Summer, the small wind swells push the sand back to the beach and again change the sand bars and rebuild the beach.
Posted by: Dennis at January 24, 2006 10:51 AMword on the crap session this AM. this beatch is quite unfamiliar to me lately. not necessarily bad waves out there just nothing like what I excpect to see.
and inner bars can be fun on a spring windswell but when the 15s energy reforms in the river and then dumps on the inner bars - its a little intimidating.
maybe the tide was just too high and its going off right now.
Posted by: obro at January 24, 2006 10:51 AMHey Bruce, at least you HAVE hair. I turned 50 last year and thought I would wear it like a badge of honor. Didn't quite work out... in the lineup I'm just the grumpy-old-fart-wave-hog-on-the-tanker. Oh well.
Some nice outside sets this morning but damn that rip sucked. I paddled non-stop, really, for an hour and a half. Please pass the ibuprofen and frozen peas.
korewin, relax, most of the locals stay inside the bay for the winter. There are fewer and fewer born and bred at the beach every year. Attrition with few replacements. Only 14% of SF is under 18 and the vast majority have no interest in surfing. Soon there will be only transplants. BTW, there are some v. nice locals. They mostly keep a low profile.
Posted by: kdalle at January 24, 2006 10:51 AMkorewin, The locals only drop in on the trannys so its ok in their mind. They are cordial and nice to one another. The problem is that its been 15 yrs since the locals had it to themselves.
Posted by: sd rider at January 24, 2006 10:53 AMsd - I never wear a dress and I've been dropped in on. OK well maybe a little make-up to cover up the wrinkles.
Posted by: Dennis at January 24, 2006 11:00 AMmore like 25 years sd.........
Posted by: a local at January 24, 2006 11:01 AMwaaa, the good old days, waaa
Posted by: local ninny's at January 24, 2006 11:03 AMI've seen the locals drop in on each other plenty. I've witnessed some sad but hilarious local-on-local verbal jousting too.
the localism story in bbr's magazine (he posted a link yesterday) was disgusting. (the one with the fight in the parking lot). made me nauseous.
shhhrrred.
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 11:07 AMThe sandbars are, obviously, the result of wind, waves, and tides. They change the fastest during times of year when we have the fastest moving tides.I could say I figured this out on my own, but a guy who grew up here clued me in and I was able to observe he was right. If you get a ginormous swell with uber long periods that hits during a really big tide change, a lot of sand will move. 100 ft Wednesday hit during such a tide, and we had so little sand the rest of that year that even the outer bars didn't break well unless the swell was REALLY big. Waves broke onto the Great Highway...
OTOH, a ginormous swell that hits during a small tide change will have comparatively little effect.
kore, I wasn't being judgmental about whether it was good or bad that some long-time locals act like that. Just urging serenity-prayer-mentality. You're not going to change them, but they will mellow with age. And, in the meantime, you can watch from a safe distance until you are comfortable getting in the mix. I've certainly been dropped in on DOH+ no-backing-out waves at the south end. I changed and started surfing the middle...
And you can be sure that naming guys who grew up here and complaining about their wave etiquette will not do you or anyone else any favors in the long run.
Posted by: blakestah at January 24, 2006 11:15 AMHappy Bday, Bruce!
fyi everyone, conditions all over CA will be great until the end of the first week of Feb. Currently fighting a cold, then will be waaay out of the state, inland. Dammit!
Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at January 24, 2006 11:20 AMthanks for the feedback and for not just "typing" me
Posted by: korewin at January 24, 2006 11:26 AMnames. as i have gotten to know more and more
folks over the past 6 years i notice that 99% of ob folks
are good guys and gals. i am just putting it out there to be
a bit more nice to one another and not so cutthroat.
Dude....I was sure that surf localism story in BBR's mag was fiction.
Posted by: tucker at January 24, 2006 11:30 AMI DON'T SUPPORT our troops. This is a particularly difficult opinion to have, especially if you are the kind of person who likes to put bumper stickers on his car. Supporting the troops is a position that even Calvin is unwilling to urinate on.
I'm sure I'd like the troops. They seem gutsy, young and up for anything. If you're wandering into a recruiter's office and signing up for eight years of unknown danger, I want to hang with you in Vegas.
And I've got no problem with other people- the ones who were for the Iraq war- supporting the troops. If you think invading Iraq was a good idea, then by all means, support away. Load up on those patriotic magnets and bracelets and other trinkets the Chinese are making money off of.
But I'm not for the war. And being against the war and saying you support the troops is one of the wussiest positions the pacifists have ever taken- and they're wussy by definition. It's as if the one lesson they took away from Vietnam wasn't to avoid foreign conflicts with no pressing national interest but to remember to throw a parade afterward.
Blindly lending support to our soldiers, I fear, will keep them overseas longer by giving soft acquiescence to the hawks who sent them there ? and who might one day want to send them somewhere else. Trust me, a guy who thought 50.7% was a mandate isn't going to pick up on the subtleties of a parade for just service in an unjust war. He's going to be looking for funnel cake.
Besides, those little yellow ribbons aren't really for the troops. They need body armor, shorter stays and a USO show by the cast of "Laguna Beach."
The real purpose of those ribbons is to ease some of the guilt we feel for voting to send them to war and then making absolutely no sacrifices other than enduring two Wolf Blitzer shows a day. Though there should be a ribbon for that.
I understand the guilt. We know we're sending recruits to do our dirty work, and we want to seem grateful.
After we've decided that we made a mistake, we don't want to blame the soldiers who were ordered to fight. Or even our representatives, who were deceived by false intelligence. And certainly not ourselves, who failed to object to a war we barely understood.
But blaming the president is a little too easy. The truth is that people who pull triggers are ultimately responsible, whether they're following orders or not. An army of people making individual moral choices may be inefficient, but an army of people ignoring their morality is horrifying. An army of people ignoring their morality, by the way, is also Jack Abramoff's pet name for the House of Representatives.
I do sympathize with people who joined up to protect our country, especially after 9/11, and were tricked into fighting in Iraq. I get mad when I'm tricked into clicking on a pop-up ad, so I can only imagine how they feel.
But when you volunteer for the U.S. military, you pretty much know you're not going to be fending off invasions from Mexico and Canada. So you're willingly signing up to be a fighting tool of American imperialism, for better or worse. Sometimes you get lucky and get to fight ethnic genocide in Kosovo, but other times it's Vietnam.
And sometimes, for reasons I don't understand, you get to just hang out in Germany.
I know this is all easy to say for a guy who grew up with money, did well in school and hasn't so much as served on jury duty for his country. But it's really not that easy to say because anyone remotely affiliated with the military could easily beat me up, and I'm listed in the phone book.
I'm not advocating that we spit on returning veterans like they did after the Vietnam War, but we shouldn't be celebrating people for doing something we don't think was a good idea. All I'm asking is that we give our returning soldiers what they need: hospitals, pensions, mental health and a safe, immediate return. But, please, no parades.
Posted by: atari at January 24, 2006 11:35 AMLOL
Posted by: Dem at January 24, 2006 11:40 AM"Please pass the ibuprofen and frozen peas"
wow. that guy has some balls. kudos to the la times for publishing that piece.
Posted by: rza at January 24, 2006 11:43 AMAnd not to over-politicize the blog but the article in "ATARI"s sign-off link is spot on. Damn right.
Posted by: Dem at January 24, 2006 11:44 AMI love the part about the Chinese making money off of the magnetic "support our troops" ribbons. it is true. HOT!
Posted by: Atari at January 24, 2006 11:44 AMAtari-
Yup, the whole thing stinks. It sucks for the kids who have few other options than to join the military to pay for school or to feed their young families, (because they live in places like Oklahoma that "educates" high school students that abstinence is good and condoms are bad so they wind up with a hungry family of four by the time they are 19), and then wind up getting shipped off to Faluja. It sucks for those of us who KNEW - even back before Judi Miller and the Administration was outed for the fraud they perpetuated on the the American people - that the whole thing was a pre-meditated lie from the get go. It mostly sucks for the families and communities that will never have their young soldiers to go through life with because they died for a lie.
I feel so much despair when I read the news. Surfing is my tonic to all this shite going on with this fucked up Administration.
Get some waves, write your Congressmen and Senators and let them know what you think of the job they are doing. Then, VOTE!
Peace.
Posted by: pissedoff at January 24, 2006 11:54 AMdisclaimer = sorry for the politics today, guys.
pissedoff, agreed on the voting. problem is that we usually only have one of two very-similar choices. take Hillary, for example, that chick doesnt seem to have an opinion on the war (that she voted to approve). and we are gonna have to vote for her next election.
boxer and feinstein also both voted FOR war.
pelosi's family business strictly forbids hiring union labor.
ah shit, we need Chuck Norris in a bad way!
Posted by: Atari at January 24, 2006 12:04 PMA little more info on beach moprhing.
Posted by: Dennis at January 24, 2006 12:11 PMhttp://www.coastalchange.ucsd.edu/index.html
Totally agree with the LA times article.
I Have never supported the folks in the military who joined after the Iraq fiasco began. People who yearn to tote machine guns, intimidate people, feel powerful and participate in imperialism are not the people i choose to support.
We need a military.. to DEFEND against the psychos that do exist in the world. But.. never to attack without provocation. We suck!
I feel horrible for the ROTC folks, the people who joined after 9/11 to aid in a national defensive posture and any soldier who winced at the sickening inhumanity of the Iraq War but was forced to participate anyway. That fucking sucks!!!
It makes me want to throw up every time i think about the Iraq war.
Thousands and thousands and thousands of deaths. For no good reason.
Thousands and thousands and thousands of INNOCENT PEOPLE KILLED!!!! IN OUR NAME!!! FOR NO GOOD FUCKING REASON!!!! ARRGHGHGHGH!!!
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 12:12 PMGIVE ME A F U C K I N G BREAK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YOU FAGS MAKE ME FUCKING SICK TO MY STOMACH. GET A GODDAMN CLUE.
whoa dude, yeah, surf some waves, fuck!!! write your congressman, whoaaaa!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Betty Duball (doo-ball) at January 24, 2006 12:12 PMNice to meet you, Bruce, and Kaiser!
I've posted some of the pix on www.ksusa.org, in the photo gallery.
There are heaps more pix, but they all kind of look like the empty rights I posted.
It was deceptive out there, no doubt!
Cheers!
Posted by: SFKneelo at January 24, 2006 12:14 PMhey guys, chuck norris here....i've been watching you dudes for a few weeks now and i like what i see. sure, there are a few pussies around, but overall you've got your shit together.
for my next movie, i've been thinking about a group of highly-trained surfers that take down a drug-cartel in central america. if any of ya'll are interested let me know....and if there's anything at all i can do for you guys, i'm always available.
keep kicking ass,
Posted by: chuck norris at January 24, 2006 12:14 PMchuck
Actually, Feinstien voted for it and Boxer and Pelosi voted against it. I sent Dianne a very angry letter after that vote.
Hillary is a BIG dissapointment (but she isn't my Senator) and the clueless Dems need to go buy a clue and get their act together. If they nominate her for 08 we are screwed. I don't understand why the Dems can't just say we voted to authorize force because we were tricked. Now that the lie is exposed we don't support this war. They need to get their talking points together and just stick their scardy cat necks out for a change.
Oh I wish I was surfing right now.
Posted by: pissedoff at January 24, 2006 12:16 PMplease clue us in betty duball. what are we missing??
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 12:18 PMHey SFKneelo, is there a kneeboarder equivalent to snowboarding and/or skating?
Imagine taking a 40ft drop into fresh pow on your knees or dropping into a perfect a vert ramp on your knees.
Fucking rad.
Posted by: Dorf at January 24, 2006 12:20 PM"I'm not advocating that we spit on returning veterans like they did after the Vietnam War, but we shouldn't be celebrating people for doing something we don't think was a good idea. All I'm asking is that we give our returning soldiers what they need: hospitals, pensions, mental health and a safe, immediate return. But, please, no parades."
Jeezuz, spot fucking on.
Bruce - Sorry, but I laughed right out loud at your post.
kdalle - Oh man, I feel you my brother. I was out yesterday for the first time in over a month. I work up this morning feeling hungover - and I ain't had a drink in over 16 years! But you gotta watch that ibuprofen; it wore a hole in my gut years ago. And I used to love them frozen peas until Jeff Harrison, the acupunturist, told me that heat is much better than cold except for immediate treatment of the most severe trauma. Otherwise cold tends to set up the whole repeated trauma / arthritis cycle. In any case, I like your "keep surfing no matter what" motto.
Posted by: Jimmie at January 24, 2006 12:21 PMCan you guys get serious and start talking about some real stuff- like Jenn Sterger and Sunny Garcia's chick?
Come on now!
Lets get it started, yah, lets get it started in heeeyarr!!
The Surf looks epic today.
Posted by: bored and extremely dangerous at January 24, 2006 12:22 PMAttack, attack, attack!!!
dorf,
water is more forgiving than snow or concrete.
Posted by: siggy at January 24, 2006 12:24 PMi believe we humanoids need the extra shock absorption provided by the lower extremity flex to do skate and snow drops.
"Welcome to the Beach Chalet, I'll be your waiter tonight, my name is Bagel, can i interest you in a drink or an app to start??"
Posted by: Atari at January 24, 2006 12:27 PMwho is this jenn sterger person? photos please.
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 12:28 PMthanks, dennis. i'm gonna learn me something on that website. will provide report...
Posted by: steamwand at January 24, 2006 12:31 PMsweet footage on surfline of j.star's drop at mavs. good on her. i think she's surfing in the pipe contest too.
Dunno... haven't heard of anything, but it would be rad!
My bro once had an 8-wheeler skateboard. It was fun to ride standing up. On more than one occassion, I put pads down on the deck and knees and rode the neighborhood pool. That was... maybe '80?
Posted by: SFKneelo at January 24, 2006 12:33 PMmy two cents on sandbar formation:
not something I know a whole lot about, but sandbar formation has a chicken-and-the-egg effect with wave period and water depth. Since waves break based on depth for a specific wave period, if you had a perfectly slanted beach, waves would always break in the same spot, and drop their suspended sediment right there, forming a sandbar. But tides change and wave periods are not constant, but they still tend to drop their sediment near the bar, though sometimes they just dredge up the bar. The amount of suspended sediment is also significant, though I don't know if I could guess it's relationship to tide in our area. I think your most defined sandbars are a result of having the same period breaking in the same spot for the longest amount of time. But like blakestah says, I can also conceive of the situation where high energy waves move the bars far off shore, then that sediment remains out of play for the rest of the season. I think the current research is focusing on the bottom boundary layer, where the water interfaces with the bottom. So I'm not entirely sure if the things you can see on the surface are good enough to figure out which way the sandbars are heading. This confusing stuff seems to happen most often at midbeach OB where some days you can walk out 200 yds in waist deep water, and other days you step off the beach into a trough. The dredge spoils dropped off past Sloat this past summer just added to my confusion. I think swell angle also plays a big role where the rips form. It's a bit more than I can wrap my brain around at this point.
Posted by: Andrew in Jack London Square at January 24, 2006 12:33 PMJimmie-You're right about the ibuprofen. I actually rarely use it. I know of too many people who developed ulcers. One guy nearly went into shock from overuse. But, the peas are the real deal. I don't know Jeff Harrison but my experience is that the R.I.C.E. method works wonders. Rest, Ice, Compression, Extension. With my back, which has a blown disk and a couple of bulgers, Ice and Rest has amazing efficacy. To my understanding ( and I'm sure blakestah will correct me within moments) heat actually has a negative effect. It may loosen the muscles and tendons which feels good temporarily but in the end really just inflames the injury.
FROZEN PEAS RULE!
Posted by: kdalle at January 24, 2006 12:35 PMActually, thinking on it, high tide ranges mean higher current velocities so higher capacity to carry sand and higher capacity to drop sand.
ok, I'll stop now.
Posted by: Andrew in Jack London at January 24, 2006 12:37 PMThe Passion of the Kanye:

Posted by: KCLB at January 24, 2006 12:37 PMno leg ripper

Posted by: og de souza at January 24, 2006 12:38 PMPlease tell me that story in A-Frame Mag is fiction:
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 12:50 PMhttp://a-framemag.com/mags/03/
(Balmoral with a Side of Lamb)
Who is Jenn Sterger?
Jenn Sterger is just a wholesome florida girl. She is currently a med student at Florida State University. She works hard at an all boys school to put herself through medical school, just trying to make ends meet. i think she is studying neurosurgery.
Here she is wearing her pink outfit on one of her few down days between library sessions. Just hanging with some other med school students that she worked so hard with to complete the anatomy lessons:
also, here she is volunteering for the United Way on campus, showing school pride, before staying up all night to cram for another anatomy exam. The gentleman is her study partner who will help her cram it all in before the big test:
More images of Jenn, and a Pay Pal site for donations, can be found at http://www.fsucowgirls.com
Posted by: Atari at January 24, 2006 12:50 PMI Have never supported the folks in the military who joined after the Iraq fiasco began. People who yearn to tote machine guns, intimidate people, feel powerful and participate in imperialism are not the people i choose to support.
e people join for a lot of different reasons, they do not fit neatly into you timeline. Have you actually spoken to anyone that joined after Iraq started or are you just guessing at their attitudes?
Posted by: the janitor at January 24, 2006 12:54 PMNatural mo betta.
Posted by: Dennis at January 24, 2006 12:57 PMBetty Duball, your military transport plane to Baghdad is on the tarmac and awaiting your arrival. Yeah thought so, you bonehead.
Posted by: Dem at January 24, 2006 01:00 PMI was pro Afghanistan - anti-Iraq. If "I" was a soldier that joned the military to fight in Afghanistan, and was ordered to fight in Iraq, "I" would be setting up shop in Canada. It wa too obvious a mis-judgement.
Posted by: Dennis at January 24, 2006 01:03 PMPaddled outside yesterday morn and sat by myself. Oily glass reflecting the sunrise and clear skies, so magical to experience that with no one else in sight. Got an outer wave almost immediately and felt great. Sesh went downhill from there with strong current and thumping inside.
Here's a couple pics from yesterday post-sesh (perhaps I was near sfkneelo, viper fins t-shirt?):



Posted by: g-money at January 24, 2006 01:05 PM"I" would go to Mexico or Australia or New Zealand, not Canada.
sit at Rio Nexpa or gold coast for a couple years.
"I" dont prefer Canadian women, or their attitudes. (generalizing here, but that whole Alanus Morissett thing is go LAME). all they seem to do is complain, complain, complain.
Mekkis or Aussies are where it is AT!
Posted by: Jorge at January 24, 2006 01:07 PM
Posted by: close-up of Jenn Sterger's face at January 24, 2006 01:07 PMI'm totally generalizing about military folk who joined after the start of the iraq war. I just can't imagine how/why anyone could join knowing there would be a high likelyhood of being shipped to Iraq. I guess if you're poor or facing jail time and have no other options but military service than that's sad but true. I was raised Quaker and am an avowed pacifist soo.. i just can't relate to pro-military folks. I'm lucky to not be forced into military service. thank my lucky stars.
I've spoken with a few people who have joined after Iraq started and a few fit my profile perfectly (One was a scary rambo style kid who loved the military and thought Bush was the best. One was a special forces-type guy who hated the bush administration and really felt like what he was doing over there was wrong. He had killed many people.)
Agree that we need defense. but.. no killing innocents for no reason please.
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 01:08 PMkdalle - Yeah, I'm surprised that blakestah has not chimed in on this heat vs. cold debate yet. In any case, I say "whatever works" for you to "keep surfing no matter what!"
Posted by: Jimmie at January 24, 2006 01:10 PMoops...

Posted by: g-money at January 24, 2006 01:11 PMNot me, g-money... have a bum knee. ;-)
The pix I mentioned were South end this AM.
Those are nice pics, BTW! What happened on the middle one?
Also, regarding kneeling on a skateboard... don't do it! Siggy's right!
Posted by: SFKneelo at January 24, 2006 01:18 PMi just had the best shag
Posted by: Heath Ledger at January 24, 2006 01:22 PMThere's things you know, and things you don't....
I know ice worked well for my surfer's shoulder. Didn't try heat.
I know Jeff Harrison did acupunture on me, and it worked even better on pain and inflammation than ice. And, he knew more about the underlying biomechanics than a Hopkins trained orthopaedic surgeon and UCSF faculty physical therapists. And, he gave me a stretching and rehab routine that was basic, but accelerated my recovery. And I would highly recommend his services to anyone suffering from over-use related to surfing, at least check it out once or twice.
Posted by: blakestah at January 24, 2006 01:33 PM> What happened on the middle one?
it wasn't pretty...I have 4 in the sequence, will post them tomorrow if I remember.
Posted by: g-money at January 24, 2006 01:33 PMIMHO -
The folks who join the military genuinely feel like they're doing the right thing and feel like they are defending this country.
"Support Our Troops" is a marketing ploy to deflect legitimate criticism of the war.
I wish I could've surfed this morning. Mixed sandbars or not.
Posted by: R3W at January 24, 2006 01:34 PMwo, no legs skater guy is nutty
heres some shots i took yesterday at lunch with my new photo machine..look out mexi and bruce! ya right.
hope this works
Posted by: bagel at January 24, 2006 01:35 PMWhen The Beach is putting the hammer down on what should be EZ Money days, my mind wafts back to gentle climes and warm water...
Posted by: Basic Man at January 24, 2006 01:36 PMstupid son of a! image hosting my ass!
Posted by: bagel at January 24, 2006 01:36 PMstupid son of a! image hosting my ass!

Posted by: bagel at January 24, 2006 01:37 PMoh that worked yet it is tiny..heres other tiny ones

Posted by: bagel at January 24, 2006 01:39 PMon the sandbar note. Anyone see Steamers around new years at the negative tide. There was so much sand on the inside that you could walk from Cowells to the north stairs on sand. I've never seen that before. At reef/point breaks I'm used to seeing sand disappear in the winter and then reappear during the summer. or am I crazy?
As I look back I've convinced myself these bar changes occur every year. Every fall I look at Sloat and wonder why the hell I ever surf that end of the beach but I have felt myself drawn back there and I can now recall getting some really fun rides and tough hold downs at Sloat, usually in the latter part of winter.
So what we need is someone with some acces to some Catapillar equipment on the next negative tide. push a couple sand burms in the channel at midbeach and we should be golden again
Posted by: obro at January 24, 2006 01:43 PMBetty Duball burning boogers....
http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/55110737
http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/55110738
http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/55110728
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 01:51 PMwhata kook
Posted by: doo ball insulter at January 24, 2006 01:56 PMRe: Scallan, which is the more violent act, assassinating a man's character on the internet or punching someone in the nose for doing so?
As for drop ins at the beach being life threatening? Could you guys take yourselves any more seriously? Next you kooks will be wanting Medals of Honor for surviving a go out.
Posted by: know your limits at January 24, 2006 02:01 PMbvb,
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 24, 2006 02:16 PMi've been talking to wc about a similar design concept as your new red board. what are the diemensions if i may ask? or offline: three2fivesetsof7@yahoo.com - thanks.
know your limits-the best defense against a libel suit is the truth. Some people can't handle the truth so they resort to violence. Some accept the truth and change.
Posted by: kdalle at January 24, 2006 02:41 PMawesome! so I've learned 3 things today...
1. local regulators are always right.
Posted by: educated at January 24, 2006 02:43 PM2. violence is bad, except when locals practice it.
3. although seemingly aggressive, locals are sensitive and can have their feelings hurt by random blog postings.
cool photos bagel. You can also try momentoffame.com or the surfermag forum image hosting thingy if you're not happy with image shack.
digging on Nels Cline on guitar right now.
Started to learn "Giant Steps" last night. Got the melody, which is easy.. now on to comping and eventually improvising over the quick changes.
COltrane is the man.
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 02:44 PMis it cool to cry over stuff from 25 years ago?
never forget, but don't let them know you remember
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 02:45 PMeducated, That was HOT.
agreed.
this local/non-local stuff is BS.
Dont Drop In on people, even if you are a local lifeguard. Yep, it is dangerous and stupid at the same time. Dont multitask in that manner.
The Ramp is where it is at this afternoon.
Posted by: jah at January 24, 2006 02:54 PMPray Hard, the Chinese are coming!!!
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 03:03 PMtomorrow may be a good day to miss work
Posted by: sick of working when waves are good at January 24, 2006 03:03 PMMr T. pities fools who drop in.

Posted by: mr t at January 24, 2006 03:15 PMDon't drop in sucka!
thanks E, ill check those out with further photographic exploits
Posted by: ansel bagel at January 24, 2006 03:15 PMDon't drop in on or snake your fellow surfer. In other words, do not catch a wave once another surfer has claimed it by being in a deeper or more effective position at takeoff.
Dropping in and snaking are the two most common ways in which we blow each other's fun in the surf. Both are usually caused by greed, and involve a ride-crippling interference by one surfer on another.
What do you think?
Discuss this bill in our community forum.
The drop-in happens like this: Surfer A is closest to the curl, paddles into and catches the wave, only to find that Surfer B -- the dropper-in -- has also caught the wave, from further out on the shoulder. Surfer A is then blocked from making a successful ride. The two surfers may collide, accidentally or deliberately, but it's unlikely that either will enjoy the wave to its fullest. At some critical surf spots, Surfers A and/or B may even be placed in physical danger as a result.
Drop-ins can and do happen by accident, as well as through frustration and confusion in a crowded lineup. To avoid dropping in, practice the three Ls: Look, Listen, and Learn. Always Look to your inside toward the curl before committing to the wave, just to make sure nobody's already in there. Listen for the common warning - a hoot or whistle from the surfer in position. Learn from your errors - if you drop in, make sure you're off the wave as soon as possible, say sorry, and make sure the other rider's OK before going on with your session.
A more subtle, yet potentially more offensive form of ride interference is the snake. This move is very bad etiquette, a greedy exploitation of the generally understood drop-in rule, and is usually practiced by competent and aggressive surfers. Snaking works like this: Surfer A, in position and having waited his or her turn, begins to paddle for the wave. Surfer B (the snake) waits until A's focus is purely on catching the wave, then makes a quick move to the inside and takes off, claiming the wave. If both surfers end up riding, it appears A has dropped in and is in the wrong, yet both surfers, and usually most onlookers, know otherwise.
Snaking can be distinguished from dropping in, in that it's rarely accidental. The result, however, is less predictable, and if A is also a competent surfer, bad feelings and even arguments may occur. If you're being snaked repeatedly by a single surfer, don't react -- it's unlikely to be personal. Simply move to another area of the break, putting yourself and the snake out of each other's wave-catching rhythm. If you find yourself being persistently snaked by a range of surfers, you may be sitting too wide of the takeoff to fully claim the wave; paddle deeper and make your intention clearer.
Special note to beginners: You may occasionally note surfers breaking these drop-in codes, riding around each other, and grinning away in the process -- obviously enjoying the wave share. Very likely they're friends or acquaintances who've taken off on the same wave deliberately, or who're making the best of an accidental drop-in. This should NOT be a signal to you that dropping in is just fine at that particular spot.
Posted by: Everything you ever wanted to know about the drop in at January 24, 2006 03:23 PMhey dumbass,
here's a really easy to remember formula:
the truth = good
drop ins = bad
Posted by: removing head from ass helps too at January 24, 2006 03:27 PMhow about if your friend snakes you? do you than owe your friend a snake? thats pretty much the law of my land
Posted by: bagel at January 24, 2006 03:41 PMMaybe it will be this good tomorrow.....
From Dec 05, 2005

Posted by: p-funk at January 24, 2006 04:05 PMSnake me and die
Posted by: Law of my land at January 24, 2006 04:08 PM
Posted by: artifact at January 24, 2006 04:21 PMniceness artifact!!
what's the best bad religion album?
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 04:24 PM2 outa three aint bad "Educated" - you can shame us here on the net but not in the water, = THE HEIRACHY REMAINS = and no you can't change the facts of your status wanting.
Posted by: 'Hey Kook" at January 24, 2006 04:32 PMWhere do you people surf with all these vibes? I surfed alone three days in a row - just me and the birds showing me the sets...??????
3-5-7 dims are off Big Red but foreshortened a bit from 8-4 to fit dims on a 7-9. Ward should have a sheet on the specs... I'll drop you a line
later...
one handed typing rules!
DO IT HARDER
http://photos.sfsurvey.com/surf/april92005pm/index40.asp
Posted by: SURF LIKE A GOD at January 24, 2006 04:37 PMbr album:
'how could hell be any worse'
'against the grain' is awesome too
everything before about 94 is great i think
Posted by: bagel at January 24, 2006 04:37 PM"ALL Ages" BR
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 04:40 PMdamn artifact....pure sweetness. you just may have beat kaiser at his game!!
e, against the grain and no control are classic albums. after recipe for hate i began to lose interest...
Posted by: rza at January 24, 2006 04:42 PMRZA, settle down....
Posted by: Kaiser at January 24, 2006 04:47 PMTo all the boogies out there in wa-wa-land

Posted by: at January 24, 2006 04:51 PMNope Kaiser is still the king!
Posted by: artifact at January 24, 2006 04:52 PM
Posted by: na na na narrel! at January 24, 2006 04:58 PMthanks dudes. listening to "how could hell be any worse" right now.
holy mackeral.. didn't some later punk group cover the first song "we're only gonna die"
i like the dude's melodic lyricism.
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 05:00 PMBVB's board actually says BVB. At least he knows hes a dick.
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 05:02 PMSFGate piece regarding the poor fellow who drowned at OB:
"and, in recent months, had taken up surfing."
This pretty much explains everything.
Posted by: just say no to learning at The Beach at January 24, 2006 05:02 PMahhh c'mon kaiser....don't get jealous cause i like other women.
i still owe you some beers.
Posted by: rza at January 24, 2006 05:03 PMkdalle - or Jeff, if I may be so informal, although I share your dismay at the rise of the cyber-libertarian market ethic, the truth is you are not a local, you will never be considered a local unless, like korewin ,you can get Princess Leia to confer that status upon you. You can't handle that so you resort to defaming someone on the internet.`
Incidentally, we're not litigous but we breed like rabbits.
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 05:19 PMso i guess your saying your princes leia! ha ha your princes leia! help me obi one kanobi your my only hope! ha ha!
Posted by: mean bagel at January 24, 2006 05:39 PMYou have somehow gotten the notion that I want to classified as a local. You are mistaken. I surf here. I live here. I pay taxes here. I own a home here. Perhaps your mommy or daddy moved here or maybe a few generations back. I'd love to hear you trash talk how they were not local and are undeserving of respect but you have acheived some vaunted status by an accident of birth. What a joke.
As for outing, most people know who I am already. Now, why don't you now step up and post your real name or are you just chickenshit?
No to localism
Posted by: kdalle at January 24, 2006 05:44 PMYes to those that had the balls to risk everything by moving here.
pretty awesome Zappa interview
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 05:48 PMkook on a red board
Posted by: watch out at January 24, 2006 05:50 PMhere here kdalle
Posted by: cadaver at January 24, 2006 05:50 PMnot sure who anon local is but i know that kdalle is an elder style dude. much respect.. especially on the big days when he has his triple stringer.
I'm sure both of you have shared waves and would admire each-others chargeability.
charge on.
Posted by: e at January 24, 2006 05:52 PMniceness, the new aggroville.
doooooood, the aggroville format has been done. it's tired. no one cares about whose dick is bigger or whose ballsack is older. go talk internet shit elsewhere. there used to be some interesting discussion, exchange of ideas and entertainment here. A nice relaxed salon. Now I just cringe at all the negativity and bullshit.
But the good stuff is still good and I will always come back. And the surf community in SF I think is comprised mostly of really good individuals. Namely because most of us are TRANNIES and have a little perspective and have learned to respect and appreciate what we have here. It’s really good but its no one’s to own.
e, thanks for the forum.
Posted by: rob machado at January 24, 2006 06:02 PMe-you are so right my brother. You have the spirit. And I second Machado...thanks for the forum.
Now, when are you gonna invite me back for another jam. I'll even learn some tunes this time.
Posted by: kdalle at January 24, 2006 06:08 PMDon't worry, be happy!

Posted by: Dennis at January 24, 2006 06:09 PMJust Be
Don't BV
From BV much unhappiness follows
Posted by: Tenzin Gyatso at January 24, 2006 06:10 PMkdalle, you have somehow gotten the notion that I dislike trannys. You are mistaken. I only dislike trannys that talk shit about my family and friends and are therefore undeserving of my respect. As far as outing you, it was not for anyone's benefit but your own. I am by no means a chickenshit. I'll make it a point to introduce myself the next time I see you. And no, that is not a threat.
Posted by: "Often we have no time for our friends, but all the time in the world for our enemies." at January 24, 2006 06:10 PMhey kdalle what did you risk to move here? alot of people moved here, which is why the locals are so bummed out.
so why was your individual move so much more dramatic?
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 06:14 PMhey princess leia's can i be a local? please?
Posted by: kooks at January 24, 2006 06:15 PMNext person to talk shit about tranny's is getting punched in the face! i will definetly break a nail on yo ass!
Posted by: rupaul at January 24, 2006 06:21 PMMore pics of BVD! He can surf?
Posted by: Bruce at January 24, 2006 06:29 PMFU ecofreindlylibral surfculture trust fund brats wasting coastalpurity inducting new politico-correct beginners into your frissim rassum crap program of mind alteration to clog my lineup so I have to beat them with driftwood or broken peices of my red board. More moviepostervideo shit to sell infidel commercialcrap gluttons sucking purityknowledge from the real locals who own the beach/world and own you. Own you. Own you. Own you!
Posted by: Anonymous negative poster at January 24, 2006 07:04 PMGot out at 3:00, tide was kinda low so it didn't compare with yesterdays surf. Got a couple big drops but nothing spectacular until about 5:00 ish when i did a big drop on a head high wave and got a quick right, the wave started closing out so i came up really high and dropped back down really fast and straightened out. Came back up at 6:00 and had some crappy frozen pizza which tasted delicious and then enjoyed a hot-tub and more of the cigar. Sorry about last night guys, I was really high.
Posted by: Brian at January 24, 2006 07:16 PMfuck, man, if it wasn't for my shitty ass job, I could be surfing this whole week... so burnt out on the I/T thing. Anyone else in a job they're burnt out on? I know teachers don't make much, but i'm tired of looking at a computer monitor all day.
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 07:36 PM
Posted by: Brian at January 24, 2006 07:48 PMHa, ha, ha, ha - funny ass shit.
Brian for president. Keepin' it real.
we feel your pain anon. work sucks, no one likes it - we should all be surfing. but then it would be fucking crowded.
Posted by: obro at January 24, 2006 07:50 PMIf the 'locals' start beating people up maybe they will all end up in jail?? I thought that since it was a sponger he would have got a lighter sentence.
LIHUE » A Circuit Court judge sentenced a surfer to six years in prison yesterday for surf rage assaults, including an attack on a bodyboarder last year that caused a wound over the man's eye that showed his orbital bone.
Posted by: sd rider at January 24, 2006 07:55 PMe-please make a note of the IP number of the guy who is threatening me. Thanks.
Posted by: kdalle at January 24, 2006 08:10 PMKdalle, how did you get to be the most known guy on here? I mean I dont even live up there but based on the pics on here I could prob pick you out in the parking lot. Point is, in this somewhat messed up world we live-and surf in-sometimes it is best to remain anon.
Posted by: sd rider at January 24, 2006 08:22 PMBrian, your funny.
kdalle, relax... you'll be ok. Locals come in a few kinds and most are friendly. The ones who are not are usually angry trust fund babies who are not forced to grow up, kids with time who had the good fortune of being born on the cliff, or misfits who "claim" a nook or cranny like 4 mile.
Posted by: oldguy, msurfer, local,anon.... at January 24, 2006 08:33 PMTrust me....
jan 24, dawn: san mateo county made my bits tingle. steep lefts of glass, offshore 'bout 5-10 kts. my left foot was wrapped around my left rail, just trying to hang on - all tickly afterwards. plunged an arm in a few times, too, scrunching down into the shack.
Posted by: betho at January 24, 2006 08:43 PMkdalle, in all sincerity, I wasn't threatening you. If you don't have the courage to say something to someone's face you shouldn't say it at all, is the point I was trying to make. If I have something to say to you, it will not escalate to violence, I assure you.... unless you start it.
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 08:54 PMI feel a Cuddlefest coming on!! Cuddles anyone?!
Who needs a snow cone?!
Posted by: tuff ass titties at January 24, 2006 08:58 PMTired? Stressed out? Toasted? Got the flu? Wife/partner/work/kids/parents/in-laws driving you crazy? There will be another perfect surf day that will put that stuff in perspective.
Posted by: Karma at January 24, 2006 09:16 PMkdalle comes off as a baby. likes to throw shit but cries when it flies back.
Come on....WHO needs a snuggle??!! Let's CUDDLE BITCHES!!!
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 09:21 PMFuck cuddling, I want anonymous spoon
Posted by: fluff ass bitties at January 24, 2006 09:28 PMDear Locals, you can have your god forsaken "beach", how about kicking down $250k or so for my helping make your house so unreasonably, ridiculously valuable? Thanks in advance...
Posted by: Tranny at January 24, 2006 09:31 PM4 mile locals! those guys are scum. the twitchy guy with the paddeling stamina of an olympic swimmer freaks my ass out. But twitches and a lot of stamina can only mean one thing! Meth head! I love the windansea shack they made a while back though. what fucking losers.
i like kdalle. losers stop threatening him or I'm gonna kick some ass.
Posted by: big at January 24, 2006 09:42 PMHey, Nice pic of Kdoll here. Nice wave Barno!
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 10:51 PMhttp://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/39954460
My nameth Bagel. Surf on Bagel, you kooktrannyblogshitalkinsponger!
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 10:53 PMhttp://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/39954500
Niceness crew dropping at Kaiser Cove!
Yippie!!!! Let's drown!!
http://www.pbase.com/chucklantz/image/40216624
Posted by: at January 24, 2006 10:55 PMyea, kdalle is cool. Kdalle, don't mind the numb nut fags that like to troll here.
Posted by: at January 25, 2006 02:11 AMI love the BVB photo holding a beer at Fort Point.
Like, proof positive he is violating federal law by holding a beer at Fort Point. Nothing like it!
Posted by: at January 25, 2006 05:06 AMWhooo....federal law is scary.
Posted by: at January 25, 2006 06:05 AM