lineup
A few years ago I spent two weeks on an island in the Indian Ocean. There were three or four waves scattered over a few miles of coast. The wind remained calm all morning and blew side/offshore all afternoon. Four or five guesthouses huddled in front of the main wave, which was generally crowded due to its proximity and quality. Most folks surfed this main wave or another wave that was spitting distance from the guesthouses. However, if you walked 50 minutes north, through a little forest and around a large bay, you'd arrive at a very special reef/point that for some reason rarely attracted many surfers. The wave was a bit more temperamental and required a more specific swell and wind direction. The first time i walked over there it wasn't working. The sideshore wind was onshore here and the wave just crumbled and closed-out down the line.
The next day we knew there would be some new swell arriving. I woke up before light and paddled out to the main wave in front of the guesthouses. Beautiful crystalline glass conditions. Overhead barrelling Indian Ocean tropical fantasy waves. Unreal. Within 30 minutes of dawn there were maybe 30 people in the lineup. uggg. So i exited the lineup and began the walk to the other wave, even though it supposedly needed a different tide to work. Up the coast, through the forest, around the bay... from a distance i could see the tell-tale lines. Peeling. I ran the last 500 yards. This was it. Empty, reeling, magazine-quality right-handers. Nobody around. I paddled out over the sharp coral heads and caught a few tear-jerkers. Soon a crew of Aussie rippers came walking around the bend.. then a few Kiwis. Eventually 7 of us in the lineup. A couple of the Aussies were semi-pro ass-kickers. During a lull in the action they said, "Yeah, yeah. this is off it's tits! We're takin' turns now so line up. Crikey!" And sure enough we spent the next two hours (until the wind came up) lining up and taking turns. If it was your turn and a less-stellar-but-still-rideable wave came along, you went. If the sickest, gnarliest wave of the biggest set marched in and it was your turn, you'd better fucking go . It was awesome. I remember paddling back out and seeing the main Aussie guy drop into a thick, keg-like reef-sucker, bottom turn and then stuff himself way way back into an amazing barrel. I paddled over the top of the lip with my fist up in the air hooting him as loud as i could.. Then a few minutes later i was dropping into a way-less-stellar-but-still-legit wave, not getting barrelled or anything.. but he was paddling out and gave me a huge, tribal hoot. It was radical. We kept looking over toward land to see if anyone else was walking out, but nobody did. The next day it was crowded at this wave.. but.. the memories remain.
--------------------
Aussie pro Richie Lovett diagnosed with cancer
--------------------
In other news the "Brian for God" campaign picks up huge headway on an underground SF blog.
nice story. Daydreaming about past surfing experiences rules almost as much as creating new surf memories!!
Posted by: traut at January 27, 2006 10:31 AMLook how lives can change. Stop the whining, posing, glaring, scowling and sneering. Live with joy and share the light within you. If your light does not shine, perhaps you are not really living. Examine and question your own motives and action, not the other guys.
Authentic Living Lifestyle.
Posted by: KIX at January 27, 2006 10:35 AMI just threw up on my keyboard. Please delete those last two mouth pics.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 10:40 AMI'm thinking Brian might be the only person on Earth who could take it to Chuck Norris!
Posted by: johnny at January 27, 2006 10:40 AMI would go out tonight
Posted by: nanananon at January 27, 2006 10:48 AMBut I haven’t got a stitch to wear
This man said it’s gruesome
That someone so handsome should care
Chuck Norris would roundhouse kick Brian right back thru the puberty door he just passed thru just to watch the zits implode
Posted by: Otis at January 27, 2006 10:49 AM
" width="NNN" height="NNN" ALT="picture">
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:05 AMfyi tuesday was the biggest single day in niceness history with 1240 unique visitors. usually during the week there are about 750 uniques.. on the weekend around 300.
Posted by: e at January 27, 2006 11:05 AM

Posted by: sd rider at January 27, 2006 11:07 AMHello everyone,
I just caught Brian viewing this website and I have to say that I am grossly offended. Brian is only 16 years old and is highly impressionable. It appears that all of you are laughing at Brian and giving him the wrong ideas about a healthy lifestyle. Try to imagine, just for one second, that Brian is your child. And act like a parent should!!
I am going to have my IT person ban this website from my school's computers. All of you should be ashamed of yourself!
Jennifer Young (Brian's teacher)
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:08 AMOrchard View School
Sebastopol
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAA
So Jennifer, how about those pics of Brian and his bong?
P.S. are you hot? post pics please.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:10 AMnice e. on the music tip, man you instrument players are stoked. i quit piano lessons when i was like 12 like a retard. my little brother kills it on the drums. check this thing out.
http://guitarshredshow.com/
Posted by: morning bagel at January 27, 2006 11:10 AMOnce again, a classic thread that should be added to the Top 10 list.....
I can see it now, everyone scrambling to Google Jen's name and occupation!
Who will have the results first?
Posted by: Kaiser at January 27, 2006 11:12 AMI don't know, the slightly receeding hairline, the wrinkles in the forehead ... it looks like Brian may have been in 10th grade for a looonnnggg time. ;)
e - Your story hit home true and sweet. Some of my fondest surf memories are of sessions in the south pacific with small groups of aussies and kiwis where we'd set up a rotation and everybody got hooted into all the waves they could handle. No hustling, no hasseling. Even when the waves were breaking hairy and shallow over the reef, and some of us (espesially ME) would be getting worked consistently we'd still be laughing, joking and having a blast.
Posted by: Jimmie at January 27, 2006 11:18 AMhis teacher is Jennifer Sterger? holy shite
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:21 AMI'll never doubt the Aussie surfing caliber again. I met a visiting Aussie recently and I took him up to O.B. on Monday. It was his first sesh at OB and was struggling between riding the 6 4 or the 6 8. WTF, it was solid 10 feet in the middle of the beach, maybe some DOH sets, I was going 9 0 all the way. I question him on his thin leash and he goes, it'll work mate, not planning on falling eh? He opts for the 6 4, we make it outside without incident. For the next 2 hours I'd watch him take-off, follow him from behind the wave, whack, whack, whack, then a flying exit out the back for another go. Way to go Colin! can't wait to surf with you again.
Posted by: The Wrestler at January 27, 2006 11:24 AMnice story too e..
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2006 11:26 AM
Posted by: dimebag tribute at January 27, 2006 11:30 AMApparently, she is into buddhism. So she seems pretty cool. Why be anit-herb? Actually, I think it is unhealthy at such a young age. Its best to wait til college.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:31 AMOK, question of the day:
You get to take one of the Jennifers away to the Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur ($$) for the weekend. All expenses paid. Which one would you take?:
-Jennifer Connelley?
-Jennifer Sterger?
-Jennifer Anniston?
Posted by: Atari at January 27, 2006 11:32 AMlets hear it!
connelly all the way
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:35 AMSEan dropped in on me.
Posted by: Kelly at January 27, 2006 11:36 AMConnelley, easy. And I don't even know who the Sterger chick is. Connelley is that hot.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:37 AM
Posted by: Welcome to Nambla! at January 27, 2006 11:44 AMI'm a teacher and would love it if my students would get off myspace long enough to visit niceness. You (e), your posse, all the visitors (even the nasty ones) rock (on)!
Posted by: Dr Dawn at January 27, 2006 11:47 AMConnelley. Of course. You nuts?
Posted by: J at January 27, 2006 11:50 AMI'm with J on this one. Connelly is a no brainer.
Posted by: tucker at January 27, 2006 11:52 AMi think I know that Gayer guy. Ooops, I mean the OG Slayer. isn't the REAl OG Slayer a stupid metal band that people used to kind of like. This sounds like a self made nick name to me.
Posted by: Rob B at January 27, 2006 11:55 AMno brain er


Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2006 11:56 AMson of a that was a good one too
Posted by: bgl at January 27, 2006 11:57 AMWhat's the waivs like---lunchables?
Posted by: kloo at January 27, 2006 11:59 AMHoly crap, if that's really Brian's teacher this is officially hilarious.
Posted by: Brian for Detention at January 27, 2006 12:00 PMOh my god!!! Funny stuff the last couple days.
Posted by: Mexi at January 27, 2006 12:09 PM
Posted by: Brian For Class President at January 27, 2006 12:09 PMAnniston, Beals, Connelly and Garner. WTF it's a fantasy anyway.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 27, 2006 12:13 PM^^^^ all too skinny, might as well fuck a boy. Tits and hips, now that's fantasy material.
Posted by: Cleetus at January 27, 2006 12:15 PMi dunno, maybe it'd be okay cletus

Posted by: at January 27, 2006 12:23 PMhttp://www.thesuperficial.com/archives/2006/01/26/david_hasselhoff_is_hooked_on.html
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 12:26 PM^^^^^ can you say silicone? not to mention airbrush? not to mention probable attitude.... don't get me wrong, if those are natural boobs, yowza. but if they're fake, i'm about as attracted to them as I am to a car tire.
Posted by: Cleetus at January 27, 2006 12:27 PMuh oh - sounds like Cletus is bangin' a fat ass!
Posted by: I got barrelled at January 27, 2006 12:42 PM
Posted by: HUH? WHAT? at January 27, 2006 12:44 PM
Posted by: Ms. Young for President at January 27, 2006 01:00 PMit's possible there can be too much of a good thing.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 01:04 PMwhat and where are my best chances for surf this weekend?
Posted by: inquiring bagel at January 27, 2006 01:05 PMGreat story today E, I love day-dreaming of epic sessions. Taking turns is the best way to do it too, it allows people who don't take off so deep to get some. I hate it when the competition pushes so deep that people aren't making it and waves get wasted.
Posted by: Mexi at January 27, 2006 01:06 PMwhy aren't the winds up? I should have taken today off damnit. will the winds stay off it tomorrow afternoon or should I just try for an AM high tide swap sesh to feed the monkey.
If I don't surf on the weekends I am a very unhappy doooooooooode. But I'm so sick of waiting around on weekends for OB to get good.
This winter sucks.
Posted by: meteorologically challenged at January 27, 2006 01:06 PMwhy aren't the winds up? I should have taken today off damnit. will the winds stay off it tomorrow afternoon or should I just try for an AM high tide swap sesh to feed the monkey.
If I don't surf on the weekends I am a very unhappy doooooooooode. But I'm so sick of waiting around on weekends for OB to get good.
This winter sucks.
Posted by: meteorologically challenged at January 27, 2006 01:07 PMwhhhhhhhhhhhooooooooooooooopppppppppppppppssssssssss.
sorry to post twice
ha ha work sucks! when does Brian get off school?
Posted by: internet challenged at January 27, 2006 01:10 PMThe Brian pics are becoming too predictable. New game time.
Posted by: Dennis at January 27, 2006 01:11 PMDennis, want to send over a pic of yourself?
Posted by: The Mad Photoshopper at January 27, 2006 01:13 PMHi Bagel, Blakestah here...........

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 27, 2006 01:21 PM
Posted by: navel gazer at January 27, 2006 01:35 PMMad Photoshop guy. nah. I'm too ugly.
Posted by: Dennis at January 27, 2006 01:40 PMwhat is wrybread's handle?
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 01:46 PMThat guy in the pic does look like Blakestah.
Posted by: steve at January 27, 2006 01:48 PM
Posted by: tunnel of weed at January 27, 2006 01:52 PMlooking good bstah!
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2006 01:52 PMkeeping the art thing e started yesterday going ..
mcgee

saville

de balincourt

ritchie

Posted by: bored bagel at January 27, 2006 01:56 PMhttp://www.orchardviewschool.org
Brian's Teacher
Jennifer Young: jyoung@orchardviewschool.org
Her Boss:
Posted by: mulligan at January 27, 2006 02:02 PMCarol: crogers@orchardviewschool.org
no mouth pics??
Posted by: mulligan at January 27, 2006 02:04 PMplease dont take internet bullshit into unwary peeps lives. there is no proof it was brians actual teacher.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 02:07 PMword anon
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 02:12 PManswer this question anonymously: how many signatures do you post under?
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 02:15 PMditto. the teacher email was bogus, as is the jyoung email@ above. it's doubtful that is even brian's school - so leave it alone.
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 02:16 PMTime to start editing E... things could get lame.
Posted by: mexi at January 27, 2006 02:22 PMon a positive note it's Friday ;-)
Posted by: mexi at January 27, 2006 02:23 PMjeez - sorry
Posted by: mulligan at January 27, 2006 02:23 PMbut it's going to rain all weekend :-(
Posted by: Mexi at January 27, 2006 02:23 PMMexi - south winds ....there's really only one choice!! Can't wait.
Posted by: jack at January 27, 2006 02:28 PM
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 02:36 PMWhen life serves me lemons...
...I make lemonade.
Posted by: tooly at January 27, 2006 02:41 PMleyendecker

cornwell
src="http://www.spartacus.schoolnet.co.uk/ARTcornwall.jpg">
ascencios

sorren

Posted by: illustrator appreciator bagel at January 27, 2006 02:45 PMSo, today I didn't have to travel very far to hit this lip.

Posted by: Cankor at January 27, 2006 03:07 PMWhat do you do with that Mcgee piece once it is done being displayed? Does the artist simply tear it down?
I can't imagine that being sold to someone so they can stash it in their front yard. Hell some of my family members have lawn art just as nice.....
Posted by: Kaiser at January 27, 2006 03:09 PM
Posted by: Kaiser at January 27, 2006 03:13 PMthose are very very nice
Posted by: Chumash Local at January 27, 2006 03:21 PMI usually like McGee but a pile of vans, bleh.
And De Balincourt -- proof that some "art" is just plain stupid.
Posted by: Retarded Bongload Artists Go Home to the Mission and starve some more at January 27, 2006 03:21 PMNice artwork youz guyz. Sure would like to picture meself barrelled in Kaisers fist painting.
Posted by: Dennis at January 27, 2006 03:22 PMThe new James Bond villian is BALLFINGER

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 27, 2006 03:24 PMConnelley, and a case of Coopers green label ale
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 03:30 PMAnniston and Sterger can come along and join in if they want.
enough with the physical abnormalities. i'm just about to start enjoying my weekend and don't need fingers of death ruining the mood.
Posted by: 50 minutes more at January 27, 2006 03:30 PMCleetus, some of us like skinny girls. and connelley's are real. on the other chick- Who Cares if they are fake?
Posted by: tt at January 27, 2006 03:31 PMdid you end up getting any of those kaiser? i think museums buy that kind of stuff and keep in in thier basement or something. dont really know. gross ballfinger
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2006 03:32 PMHey if you had BALLFINGER. You could cup a nut and feel the mood when and wherever. Feel the fuzz.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 27, 2006 03:34 PMi like the keith richards painting.
Posted by: e at January 27, 2006 03:41 PMIt seems to me that art is often done for arts sake or the social message regardless of beauty or convenience. Real art is never just for profit. Mcgee can make money all day long but art is much more important than money or mere beauty. I love the guys work, always have.
Posted by: Mexi at January 27, 2006 03:47 PM
Posted by: oslo cutie at January 27, 2006 04:26 PM
Posted by: hipsters unite! at January 27, 2006 04:29 PM
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 04:30 PM
Posted by: shortboards only at January 27, 2006 04:40 PMhave a groovy weekend. party at Brian's tonight!
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at January 27, 2006 04:46 PMscore and keep it quiet.
great last two shots
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2006 04:50 PMscore?
where?
weather report sucks.
southwest/west winds suck.
tides are too extreme.
junky big swell.
everyone will be jambed on the regional point/reef breaks and I will be using a lot of gas, driving around trying to find a rideable spot.
Can wait to score and not tell anyone.
Posted by: skeptic at January 27, 2006 05:24 PMSorolla

sargent

Zorn

have a niceness weekend
Posted by: bagel at January 27, 2006 06:08 PMi fucked that teacher.
Posted by: Brian at January 27, 2006 06:23 PMHey guys, i grabbed a few guys from school by saying, Hey lets go surfing! and then came to my house. Suited up, had a cigar on the way down the beach. Im still kinda sick though so im coughin up loogies and shit. Go out and drop in on some thick chest high closeouts... Yeah whateva. then went hella far out and got some bomb fast lefts that lasted for not any time at all and did some shreddin that felt good. a couple big set waves scared the shit out of me and i nearly crapped my pants (had a big fuckin burger at 2 o clock) and then i cought a big fucking wave and just shot down the face mega fast. cut right with a bottom turn and swung it all up the face until it closed out on my board and sent me into the air whoo. got a lot of nice shitty rides that were nothing special but fun all the same. came in and startin hackin hella loogies and just feelin sick and coughin up hella gross shit. now i feel a bit better... i took dayquil twice today and im gettin up at 4:00 tomorrow morning to take a bus to SUGARBOWL fuck yeah. So yeah guys take care and ill see you all later.
Posted by: Brian at January 27, 2006 06:28 PMrock on, brian! hella. big storm coming, though. watch out up there.
funny stuff this week!
Posted by: kloo at January 27, 2006 06:43 PMWhy. thank you Bagel, For some, life is a power struggle and acquisition is the goal. For nicenesses, who are further along in their psycho/spiritual development, it is a divine dance with the source of everything. Feeling aligned with that fundamental force, commonly called niceness, is a very different life experience than feeling separate from it, and people who have a that perspective handle marijuana differently from people imprisoned in separation. This ancient tool of shamanic cultures affords them insights rather than escape -- a blueprint to another level of reality beyond the small self, where we are connected to everyone and everything. Marijuana gives insight into whatever fears and other reactive emotions blind us to this unity, helping us to be the authors of our lives and not its victims. But, I digress. Have a niceness weekend too, all of you.
Posted by: the surreal Brian at January 27, 2006 06:44 PMhttp://forums.surfingthemag.com/photopost/data/506/123005-bonus2.jpg
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 06:57 PMhttp://forums.surfingthemag.com/photopost/data/506/012506-bonus4.jpg
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 06:59 PMcosmic art!
Posted by: cosmo at January 27, 2006 08:11 PMPosted by: Just one more... at January 27, 2006 09:41 PM
Bagel- Post your art, please.
Posted by: Bruce at January 27, 2006 09:42 PM
Posted by: Ooops... Just one more again. at January 27, 2006 09:43 PMbonus2.jpg would be so hot if she had not gotten the bolt-ons. nice curve in the small of her back, great ass, and then those alien chi chis. no mames!
Posted by: at January 27, 2006 11:03 PM
Posted by: lol at January 28, 2006 01:03 PMdamn, surf not cooperating again... sucks.
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 01:26 PMfuck hics
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 03:20 PMfuck hics
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 03:20 PMdude e give kaiser a page for all time hottest babes
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 03:35 PMhttp://forums.surfingthemag.com/photopost/data/506/010506-bonus1.jpg
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 03:36 PMcleetus is not pleased with these babes.
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 04:30 PMMy Gawd! The Extreme Scene? Utter rubbish!
Posted by: SeaSlag at January 28, 2006 04:40 PM
Posted by: All your Brians are belong to us at January 28, 2006 04:43 PMdown with brian, he is a holy sinner
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 05:12 PMfuck you!
Posted by: Brian at January 28, 2006 05:15 PMAnd thus we come full circle:

Posted by: at January 28, 2006 05:21 PMYawn on the Brian stuff. Did BVB get angry at this kid? So we have to read post after post of goofballs who have nothing else to do? Get a life, please.
Posted by: Tired at January 28, 2006 06:29 PM"post after post of goofballs who have nothing else to do".... Doesn't that pretty much sum up this blog, and the internet in general though?
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 06:47 PMAuthentic Goofball Lifestyle
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 06:50 PMthis blog is SO MUCH better
Posted by: reign of 16 year old booger eaters at January 28, 2006 07:39 PMthan it used to be

Posted by: Ok, fine. at January 28, 2006 08:17 PMYo. Brian is not tired. Someone get some Brian shirts made up and I'll buy a couple.
Or stickers and I'll put them on my funboard. Ha, just kidding.
The surf is tired. FP should be a hoot tomorrow afternoon. Did anyone get swept out to sea today?
Posted by: Rob Machado at January 28, 2006 09:50 PMAnyone notice that left at lindy in front of the bathrooms? Strong current but really nice setup...weird - but really fun.
Posted by: huh? at January 28, 2006 09:54 PMBrian - no more dry-humping at dances.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/n/a/2006/01/28/state/n193051S09.DTL
Better go to college dude. A guy like you could score some serious ass.
Posted by: Ms Young at January 28, 2006 09:58 PMAttn Surfer Magazine Editors:
I just got a solicitation in the mail for a year of surfer magazine for $10.
still not worth it but if you take out about 100 pages of adds and charged a little more I might subscribe
Posted by: brah at January 28, 2006 10:28 PMHey, I got that too. Thought about it, then threw it in the recycling bin.
Posted by: steve at January 28, 2006 10:39 PMso bored. god guys get some sick picks. check out wannasurf.com and look at the pictures of SONOMA COUNTY cuz i posted hella pics and they are all MINE. whoo
Posted by: Brian at January 28, 2006 10:45 PMBrian, how was the snow today?
Posted by: thinkin' about sno-brucing at January 28, 2006 10:49 PMRon Pastucha
Posted by: at January 28, 2006 11:34 PMAllegory of Poseidon at the Shores of Term
Did you know you can buy Wolfgang Bloch prints from Surfline.com?
Posted by: steve at January 28, 2006 11:43 PMhttp://store.surfline.com/store/myProducts.cfm?CategoryID=60%7CSurf%20Art

Posted by: at January 29, 2006 08:08 AMhttp://209.245.59.40/Gimme/45740628/484297075/85699980/130B4A99-6FA4-45FC-BCF5-FC672F5D47E6/0.356228/3/BackStory-Mavericks-20060127.mp3
Posted by: at January 29, 2006 09:31 AMHere's one of my own:

Posted by: Dennis at January 29, 2006 10:54 AManyone wanna meet at Sutro for some rough tuggin and a reach around?
Posted by: at January 29, 2006 11:27 AMso i went on the bus yesterday morning at 4:30. I woke up at 3:45. So then we leave santa rosa at 5:00. drive to fairfield and the bus breaks down. we get back into santa rosa at 8:30. They are supposed to bring another bus but they flake out. So basically i get home at 9:30 pissed off and tired. Stupid as fuck. Today I went out surfin at 10ish, mega high tide. Bigger waves than normal and i got a nice right. couple big scary set waves that i was acually able to get under, i usually get my ass creamed. came back and had the cigar inna hot-tub. my dad bought a new television so im helping him set it up. i get the old one in my room with the cable yay. watching America's Funniest Home Videos... hella bored
Posted by: Brian at January 29, 2006 03:39 PMAll the paintings of waves breaking is getting a little tired... Totally just kidding, really beautiful painting Dennis, more more.
Posted by: Jaques Haas at January 29, 2006 05:01 PMdennis, looks like 1/2 photo 1/2 painting...do tell...
Posted by: drew at January 29, 2006 05:25 PMIt's half Photoshop, half Illustrator actually. I took the picture in December and dressed it up a bit. Glad you like it. Actually looks better if it's wider than tall.
Posted by: Dennis at January 29, 2006 07:48 PMDennis, that is amazing!!!!
Posted by: Hb at January 30, 2006 10:27 PM