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Dark, wet, slippery.

Late-night post-band practice drive to a friend's house.
Dark. Cold. Rainy.
Miles Davis, Electric Masada, Bill Laswell.
Thinking maybe the little spot near him will be working in the morning.
At stake was a ton of driving and a bit of sleep deprivation.
Finally arrive and he sets me up on the couch.
The rain blasts down on the skylights above.
RATTATATT TAT!
Tempestuous storm winds howl and whisper.
Spoooky vibes in this rinky little town.
Fall asleep thinking about the morrow's possibilities.

He wakes me at 5:20.
It's still raining.
We pack up the car and drive 25 minutes to the spot.
No music on the radio.
No radio.
Just anticipatory silence and occasional hand-blowing.
Heaters blasting.
Pull off the road and park.
Get out and walk to the top of sloping rise.
From atop the cliff we look down the coast and see what looks like white-water lines.
Still too dark to see for sure but all signs point toward YES.
The wind whips maniacally and the rain pelts down.. but.. it's time to surf.
We quickly slip into the seal suits and jog down a long, rocky path to the beach.
Blueish light begins to illuminate the eastern sky.
We scamper along slippery boulders and around barnacle-encrusted sea stacks.
Get to the jump-in spot and start to paddle out.
The wind whips stinging salt water into the eyes.
Thank god for the hood and earplugs!! Love those things!!
In the distance we can barely see peeling lines meandering along.
Grumpy and wind-tossed, but peeling.
My boy gets out there first and immediately turns around and drops into a long one.
Slow but powerful, he pumps and sets up some stylish cutbacks.
No immediate waves for me so i sit out there and contemplate the environs.
Majestic, rolling, dark-green California hills.
Grandiose, vertical, ocean-shorn rocky cliffs.
Squawking, unperturbed gulls and ducks.
Nobody around. No lights. No people.
Finally i see a blip on the horizon and a wave begins to rise and buckle.
I get under the ledge and luck into a nice takeoff ramp.
Fast, quick takeoff..
Steer off the bottom.
Work down the line.
React to the wave, try to utilize it's natural energy pockets.
Get a hoot from my friend.
Kick out.
Paddle back.
Enjoy 8 or so waves like that and then rush back to the car, back to his house, back to my car, then rush rush rush back to the city. back to the office.. back to the computer. back to the now. Tired but pleased.

Jeff Chamberlain emailed some photos of a recent boat trip he took to a rarely-surfed stretch of California coast
niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

niceness

This guy is effing awesome!

first! and that dude is large and in charge.

Posted by: todd at March 3, 2006 09:53 AM

Yikes, who would have thought it possible? The guy in the top picture must way 300 lbs...
Workin in the ER in the south, I see tons of people that size and above- the usually have trouble even getting off the stretcher by themselves...
Our record was a 700 lb (really!) patient the other day. He had to be carried in on a canvas and would not fit onto a stretcher. Needless to say, he couldn't even sit up by himself.
We also often have patients that have to be hoisted out of their apartments by crane, because it's physically impossible to carry them down the stairs.
Nice to see that the guy in the top pic carries his weight well.

Posted by: welle at March 3, 2006 09:56 AM

Irish Tow-in

Posted by: dmc at March 3, 2006 10:15 AM

Those 2 phat photos show that with a good wave and some experience, surfing is not necessarily an athletic activity.
The good sessions usually feel effortless...

Posted by: Sander at March 3, 2006 10:15 AM

Palisades Homeboy, Tahiti Transplant
Hula plain rips!
Go surf with him on his charter boat http://www.vaimititours.com/


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Posted by: SoCal Grom at March 3, 2006 10:29 AM

I think Jim P. proves that if you got it and use it, you'll never lose it. But first you've got to get it.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 3, 2006 10:32 AM

Rad video. I got scared looking over the cliff.

Posted by: Perry Cox at March 3, 2006 10:33 AM

e, your hardcore..

that video is also..as are the boogies in that video..

Posted by: bagel at March 3, 2006 10:36 AM

dmc
thanks for the link
unreal cliff footage of the irish tow in crew.
lots of paddle surfers in the lineup too
right on

Posted by: toneman at March 3, 2006 10:41 AM

e
sounds like you are living the dream

Posted by: toneman at March 3, 2006 10:41 AM

e, i'm jealous seems like you've been scoring all week whilst I've been city, no surf guy. Turns out running and yoga just aren't quite as fun.

Posted by: zebra at March 3, 2006 10:58 AM

thanks dudes. The waves are out there i guess.. just gotta poke your head around a few corners..

... and drive a bit.

Posted by: e at March 3, 2006 11:00 AM

driving.

Posted by: ahhhh, theres the rub at March 3, 2006 11:01 AM

chocolate water junk where I went in this morning e, i should have stalked you.

Posted by: 2 waves of shit today at March 3, 2006 11:01 AM

question for today ????
In your opinion who is more hardcore?
A. surfer who lives at the coast and surfs near home at the same spot all the time. (local)
B. surfer who has to drive 2 or more hours just to get to the breaking waves and surfs dozens of different spots each year.(traveler)

Posted by: toneman at March 3, 2006 11:10 AM

He's going to charge it!

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Posted by: needles at March 3, 2006 11:18 AM

first attempt

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 11:29 AM

if thats a painting it's the best painting ever...nice ptosh

Posted by: bagel at March 3, 2006 11:33 AM

second try

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 11:33 AM

third try

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 11:35 AM

ptosh's spot

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 11:39 AM

bagel,
thats a spot I drove 3 hours to "check" last weekend.I shot those with my trusty digital camera before the long hike down the hills/cliff
I wish I could paint that image.

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 11:40 AM

so you couldn't take a shot two minutes later while someone rode a set?

Posted by: timing is everyting at March 3, 2006 11:40 AM

thanks whoever helped post my image

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 11:42 AM

You surf a lot, e. You've got a lot of dedication. I wouldn't even think about waking up that early for a 50/50 shot at decent surf.

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 11:42 AM

timing is good
uncrowded is better
I wanted to surf not shot photos after a 3 hour+ drive
the 2 guys out got worked on the set wave anyway
see second and third photos

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 11:45 AM

E IS the "New California." Moves here from eastcoastwhereverville - claims, calls it his own and then exploits our inheritence; our once beautiful, unpopulated, unexposed pristine California. Like a modern day surfing Jesus.
More photos of the coast please; Big Sur, OB, Dead's, Palo Marin; serve it up to the internet massess - grab new gear at Aqua, Wise or Mollusk then send E a private email request and he'll tell you excatly where he guided his manamobile...
What a farce and I wouldn't give a shit if you weren't putting all this info out there to your dutiful tranny followers...
SELLOUT.
Needles=anus.

Posted by: Bechtel at March 3, 2006 11:47 AM

tanks mon

Posted by: timing is post wind tho at March 3, 2006 11:47 AM

don't believe the hype...

Posted by: flavor flav at March 3, 2006 11:50 AM

happy friday, the day to be fried.

Posted by: secret spot at March 3, 2006 11:51 AM

If you are going to keep surfing and keep improving, and keep enjoying you really need to surf your local spot (OB which is pretty challenging) and travel to other spots.

However, to drive 3 hours, crash at a friends house, wake up super early to surf, then drive 3 hours back and go to work is pretty damn hard core.

I love surfing before work b/c it makes my day worthwhile and I feel like I am balancing lifes responsibilities with enjoying and appreciating what is available to us.

Posted by: mofo at March 3, 2006 11:51 AM

Bechtel grow up man
get a grip
reality sucks brah

Posted by: our ??? inheritance at March 3, 2006 11:53 AM

Artifact - for a guy that's so laid back, you sure do some crazy shit. I appreciate the videos from yesterday.

Posted by: Dennis at March 3, 2006 11:56 AM

Bechtel = anon pussy

"our inheritance"- yah, like this blog really crowds the local lineups, idiot. seen surfline or wavewatch or surfpulse before? dumbshit.

you dont shop at Aqua or Wise = you get discounts at "core" shops in Santa Cruz and therefore are far more "core" than OB locals. phag.

Posted by: Atari at March 3, 2006 11:57 AM

time for the HIGH noon spliff ahhhhhhhh

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 12:00 PM

word.

Posted by: every hour on the hour at March 3, 2006 12:01 PM

who cares if you are eastcoast or westcoast?
i share my spliff with both sides

Posted by: ptosh at March 3, 2006 12:01 PM

puff puff give.

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 12:02 PM

what the f**k Betchell
you named more than e ever has

Posted by: mesa dweller at March 3, 2006 12:04 PM

E, thanks for the jam last night - your story about your adventures this morning was, as we say in the West O, hella inspiring. Keep it up man.

Dave Chappelle movie out this weekend - woohoo!

Posted by: Dean at March 3, 2006 12:08 PM

I found a pic of Bechtel from a previous post:

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 12:12 PM

isn't there a spot in SC named Betchell ?

Posted by: curious at March 3, 2006 12:13 PM

wow what is his phone number
Betchell is so cute

Posted by: now more curious at March 3, 2006 12:14 PM

E, do you drink coffee on these eary dp's? i couldnt do it without at least one cup.

Posted by: Perry Cox at March 3, 2006 12:23 PM

Bechtel - Please stop naming and start surfing. You'll be happier.

Posted by: Jack at March 3, 2006 12:34 PM

Once you get photobucket, how or where do you put the link to post your pics........help!

Posted by: secret spot at March 3, 2006 12:39 PM

Or just do us all a favor and throw away your evil computer box.

Posted by: bridge trool kook at March 3, 2006 12:43 PM

And Getchels is the spot in SC you're thinking about, curious.

Posted by: Namey at March 3, 2006 12:53 PM

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Posted by: my secret spot at March 3, 2006 01:03 PM

Bechtel is Bob Carrillo. He moved to the Bay Area when he was 25 years old.

Yet it is "his" inheritance....good troll, though.

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 01:11 PM

Right on Dennis, recently all I've seemed to do is crazy work, pretty brutal pattern. 2 snow days and a handful of surf days, ouch! Props to those who motivate on a daily basis. Vacation days building... light at the end of the cubicle

SB represent

Posted by: artifact at March 3, 2006 01:12 PM

I drive 45-60 minutes each way to surf, but I have a choice of Moss through OB, choosing the best based on swell, tide and weather.


While I greatly enjoy getting to surf such a variety of breaks and usually get close to the best of whatever is available or what I feel like, I get envious of those who walk or ride their bikes to the same spot every day.


I surf over 100 days a year, is it ever enough? Not when I hear the local talking about over 200 days a year. But I am where I am for many reasons besides surfing and I make the most of it.


Yesterday afternoon, I surfed SC, this morning I surfed SF. SC spot was a fun head high laid back longboard sesh, a little bumpy but no wind, 2 guys out. SF was shortboard, air drop, bashing head to 1.5X with 6-10 guys out.


In the end, I enjoy the diversity and treasure it.

Posted by: g-money at March 3, 2006 01:13 PM

Niceness crew is ON IT!

http://www.surfhumor.com/ps050105OB%20093.jpg

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 01:20 PM

Preacherman, don't tell me,
Heaven is under the earth.
I know you don't know
What life is really worth.
It's not all that glitters is gold;
'Alf the story has never been told:
So now you see the light, eh!
Stand up for your rights. Come on!


Most people think,
Great God will come from the skies,
Take away everything
And make everybody feel high.
But if you know what life is worth,
You will look for yours on earth:
And now you see the light,
You stand up for your rights. Jah!

We sick an' tired of-a your ism-skism game -
Dyin' 'n' goin' to heaven in-a Jesus' name, Lord.
We know when we understand:
Almighty God is a living man.
You can fool some people sometimes,
But you can't fool all the people all the time.
So now we see the light (What you gonna do?),
We gonna stand up for our rights!

So you better:
Get up, stand up! (In the morning! Git it up!)
Stand up for your rights! (Stand up for our rights!)
Get up, stand up!
Don't give up the fight! (Don't give it up, don't give it up!)

Posted by: Nesta at March 3, 2006 01:20 PM

Sara, AKA "Shredder". seen here after breaking the nose of 3 berekley boogie boarder kooks with one swift headbutt.

Posted by: ya! at March 3, 2006 01:26 PM

get off the Marley. it's some horrible unwritten law that every surf shop/camp/dump on the planet plays Legend all goddamn day. git offff it...

Posted by: J at March 3, 2006 01:26 PM

Gee - without the computer I'd be at a loss to find my surfing identity.
That's ok I mainly surf surfline from my desk - one hand on my dick the other holds my spliff!
Get your dick outta the ass of California. You know who you are.

Posted by: Creeps Rule! at March 3, 2006 01:28 PM

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 01:28 PM

Did you get pelted with hail this am G? This is the slowest start I've had in years. 10 sessions since Jan 1, and I can walk to the beach. The blame: all mine--Partly lack of motivation, partly work, partly school, partly outta control conditions. Time for a change. I fell better with at least 3 surfs per week.

Posted by: Dennis at March 3, 2006 01:32 PM

But it feels so good!

Posted by: Caulifornia rules! at March 3, 2006 01:34 PM

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 01:42 PM

right on Dean! that was a sick jam last night!
we're progressing.

Thanks for the venom Bechtel. Thanks for the hatred. You're the best. I suck!

Posted by: e at March 3, 2006 01:55 PM

Dennis, I looked your direction as I drove by...rained most of the drive up but not during the sesh, only during the post-sesh change when I actually wanted to be dry and warm.

West winds to begin with and cloudy, but the winds backed off, the sun came out eventually around 9 and then a little squall blew in around 10 to rain on my change. I'm on 27 seshs this year, been good in SC.

Posted by: g-money at March 3, 2006 01:57 PM

Go back to the Val g-money!

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 01:57 PM

Anyone get lasik eye surgery? How long can I expect to be out of the water? I am thinking I should do it in the spring and watch the winds tear up the surf whilee i am jonesin' to surf.

Posted by: Hb at March 3, 2006 01:59 PM

27 sesh's? What, do you scrawl a little "S" in your calendar and count them up?

Sheeet. I live by the beach, and have no idea how many sesh's its been this year. ASL beotch!!

Posted by: jizzy at March 3, 2006 02:00 PM

Bectel, if you think you have certain rights based on where you were born you should take up golf (the old golf, not the new golf). Snooty country clubs actively encourage discrimintation based on where people are from and have ways to keep them out. Then you wont have to cry on the internet all the time!

Posted by: i usually resist responding to trolls at March 3, 2006 02:04 PM

Got everyone pretty riled up - wow. Good job Bechtel.

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:08 PM

Let's all just chill out, the surf is blown out anyway, let's listen to some slow KMEL jams..

ha!

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:09 PM

hb-i had lasik a few years ago. out of the water 7 days. in & out procedure, painless, easy. just make sure your eyes have stopped changing, otherwise you'll be thinking about doing it again in a few years. but well worth it even so (and some docs will do it again for free if your eyes worsen)

Posted by: jfo at March 3, 2006 02:10 PM

Oh, brother, KMEL jams? Let's hit the blown out surf instead.

Posted by: MSG at March 3, 2006 02:11 PM

Ha!

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:18 PM

I'll just chill in the parking lot, listening to meditative yoga music, and watch the blown out surf as I hot-box kind buddha

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:19 PM

cmon J

Posted by: Mexi at March 3, 2006 02:22 PM

Everyone mellow out, lets listen to some SUFFOCATION!!


Posted by: Perry Cox at March 3, 2006 02:23 PM

geez sactomex, yoga music? core-no-more.

Posted by: ambient dubber at March 3, 2006 02:24 PM


Posted by: at March 3, 2006 02:25 PM

I smoke two joints in the morning.
I smoke two joints at night.
I smoke two joints in the afternoon.
It makes me feel allright.

I smoke two joints in times of peace.
And two in times of war.
I smoke two joints before i smoke two joints.
And then i smoke two more.

Posted by: the toys at March 3, 2006 02:27 PM

Wohhoooh. Someone busted out the Human Waste album. Highly regarded as one of the true Suffo classics. It's one thing to pull out a death metal cover, it's another level to bust out a Suffo cover, it's on the Elite Level to slap on the Human Waste cover.

Welcome to my church, Perry?

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 02:28 PM

YES, SUFFO!!!


Posted by: SUFFO at March 3, 2006 02:28 PM

i like the whole death metal direction...

Posted by: bagel at March 3, 2006 02:33 PM

dude, was I core before?
I'm joking anyway, or perhaps that was lost on y'all

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:33 PM


Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:35 PM

I thought everything here was a joke.

420 yet?

Posted by: ambient dubber at March 3, 2006 02:35 PM

Posted by: sactomex at March 3, 2006 02:38 PM

currently listening to Suffocation, "Breeding the Spawn."

Whoa! heavy.

how does he do that with his voice?
the drummer is pretty fast and tight.
They don't leave a lot of space in the music though they have some cool breakdowns.

I'm breathin' pretty easy with Suffocation.

Posted by: e at March 3, 2006 02:38 PM

the suicidal Tendencies song, "Institutionalized" is rad.

Posted by: e at March 3, 2006 02:42 PM

welcome to 20 years ago

Posted by: Club Lingerie at March 3, 2006 02:49 PM

Posted by: Hacksaw to the Throat! at March 3, 2006 02:56 PM

Hate to break it to you E, but "Breeding the Spawn" is probably the worst Suffo album, at least in terms of Production value. They re-did that song on "Pierced From Within" (which probably has the BEST production of all their albums), and it sounds SO MUCH better. That's an amazing album, too, as is "Effigy of the Forgotten". Was very much looking forward to their comeback album "Souls to Deny", released in 2004, but I was VERY dissapointed, as were most Suffo fans.

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 03:03 PM

sucks.. rhapsody only has Souls to Deny and Breeding the Dawn.. figures.. worst two albums!!

listening to Nels Cline "Destroy All Nels Cline" right now. Pretty sick!

Posted by: e at March 3, 2006 03:06 PM

"Repo Man"

Posted by: emilio estavez at March 3, 2006 03:07 PM

shit, i meant "breeding the spawn"

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 03:07 PM

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 03:18 PM

Anyone like Pantera? I used to get amped on I'm Broken and Mouth for War before we would hit the surf.

Posted by: MSG at March 3, 2006 03:44 PM

Well, you could of course go to www.suffocation.us, and they have some 1-2 minute mp3s from their earlier albums. You can also read up a bit about one of the great death metal bands in american history.

The title track to Effigy of the Forgotten is here: http://www.suffocation.us/MP3/Effigy Of The Forgotten.mp3. Now, how can you beat that fantastic, upbeat, cheery intro?

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 03:46 PM

Today's Friday Afternoon Reading Club is not a surf story per se, but about someone searching for their spot in nature, and nature following her own course. A non-fiction piece, Blood Brothers by Doug Peacock looks at Timothy Treadwell's relationship with (to?) some Alaskan grizzlies.

Posted by: Andrew in Jack London Square at March 3, 2006 03:52 PM

SUFFO has bacne. Thats back-acne.

Posted by: mofo at March 3, 2006 03:59 PM

If you haven't seen Grizzly Man you should. It's like a 2 hour documentary on what its like to be completely insane. Scenery is good too.

Posted by: tucker at March 3, 2006 03:59 PM

Posted by: ASL chick at March 3, 2006 04:06 PM

All I wanted was a Pepsi. But she wouldn't give it to me. Just a Pepsi.

Posted by: Aladdin Sarsippius Sulemenagic Jackson the third at March 3, 2006 04:19 PM

damn suffocation is tight. if you like these guys you might like cannibal corpse. particularly the album "the bleeding". stupid lyrics imho, but the music is unreal.

Posted by: lerm at March 3, 2006 04:26 PM

If you liked Grizzly Man, you'll love Grizzly Bear Man. Funny stuff:

http://www.travisandjonathan.com/media/Grizzly_Man_Web_Stream.mov

Posted by: limevoodoo at March 3, 2006 04:31 PM

I stand and fight with BVB for all that is right about surfing and it's precious limited resource..

Anyone, anywhere, anyplace, anytime.

Posted by: Jiu Jitsu Motto at March 3, 2006 04:33 PM

My styles are better than yours..

Posted by: Drunken Master at March 3, 2006 04:38 PM

I love Cannibal Corpse, but it's a very well known fact that "Tomb of the Mutilated" is their best album. One of the best albums in death metal history, period.

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 04:48 PM

funny stuff, limev!

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 04:50 PM

You're little mantra of "anyone, anywhere, anyplace, anytime" is so gay. Even if you're joking, it's crossed over into becoming very ghey. What are you, some WWF Supervillian or something? "I'm the best that is, the best that was, and the best that every will be!!" "Play time is over, bitch!!" "And that's the bottom line, because Jiu Jitsu Motto said so!!!"

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 04:53 PM

i hate humor too

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 04:54 PM

gimme sum o dat mo-jo jit-su.
it tases so fine

Posted by: mojo jitsu alovau at March 3, 2006 04:55 PM

I stand with Niceness and Naming! Bring it on biatch!

Posted by: Drunken Master at March 3, 2006 04:56 PM

Posted by: I stand and fight for soup mixes at March 3, 2006 05:10 PM

I stand for standing!

yabba dabba doobie

Posted by: fred flintstoned at March 3, 2006 06:14 PM

Just anticipatory silence and occasional hand-blowing.
Heaters blasting.
Pull off the road and park.

Kinda "Brokeback" e, dont'cha think?

lol

Posted by: flap at March 3, 2006 08:02 PM

lol!

i am putting the money on tomorrow morning. winds are dying, swell is becoming less disorganized. see ya nut heads out there early mornin'!!!!

Posted by: at March 3, 2006 08:45 PM

AI was good yesterday

Posted by: at March 4, 2006 08:08 AM

Andy Irons?

Posted by: at March 4, 2006 09:40 AM

make it anytime, anywhere

Posted by: BVB-ass-kissy-moto at March 4, 2006 09:42 AM

Posted by: deep at March 4, 2006 06:23 PM

AI was on fire! The ferry was late so we paddled raccoon strait.
Living the ASL!

Posted by: AI Locals Only! at March 4, 2006 07:07 PM

cant wait to kick the methadone sesh's. Today just needed 20 degrees - aahh. Good current paddle. All the snow is going to set up something righteous soon.

Posted by: banjo at March 4, 2006 07:51 PM

Anyone surf the local point today?

Posted by: at March 5, 2006 03:25 PM

nope

Posted by: not me at March 5, 2006 05:14 PM

Hey Josh,
Rich just got tons of blanks and he's got lots of boards ready.
Give him a call, He'll give you a sweet board for $350.00+
I won't post his phone number, but I'm sure you can google it.
Rickland Surfboards.

Posted by: Robbie at March 5, 2006 08:51 PM

CRASH

Posted by: oscar at March 5, 2006 08:54 PM

Say What!

Posted by: at March 5, 2006 09:09 PM

que onda

Posted by: at March 5, 2006 11:03 PM

Sorry bvb, brokeback did'nt win.

Posted by: gay troll at March 6, 2006 12:28 AM

you stayed up all night to watch and post to BVB?

now really, who's gay?

Posted by: at March 6, 2006 08:56 AM
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