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Starched Velum

Bulbous beach-break bombs.
Heart-racing high-stakes drops.
Cold, grey, smooth, empty.
Silently groove through the session.

A friend comes into some money.
He flies the crew to the Maldives.
Three weeks of point-reef perfection.
The locals look on, amazed and distrustful.

Camping amongst prehistoric Douglas Firs.
Moss, ferns and dripping dankness.
Frogs croak in the night.
Mysto right-hander at the mouth of the stream.

Goa full-moon acid dance.
Israeli girl with sparkly eyes.
She a panther, you a cobra.
Predators soon intertwine.

Frist!

Posted by: SFK at March 22, 2006 09:49 AM

Some people surfed today. I was not among them.
On the beach with my gear, could not summon the gumption to get on with it.

Another Techno-crat job posting:

You too could be working 8 hour days with every other friday off. 13 holidays plus 32 hours of 'floating holiday' a year. And 2 weeks vacation. Good retirement package too.

All it takes is an AA degree in Science and some job experience shuffling paper.

Live the ASL, almost.

http://www.baaqmd.gov/hro/employment_ops/aqpermittech_va_032006.pdf

Posted by: friend #1 at March 22, 2006 09:57 AM

Bright, crisp, dawn patrol
Offshore spray, barrells galore
Cubicle stuck, bore

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 22, 2006 09:58 AM

e, sorry i didn't have your back this morning. the new job was a little crazy the last couple of days but tomorrow i surf.

enjoying the new transworld surf travel edition.

Posted by: lerm at March 22, 2006 10:05 AM

is that really e posting the dailies? It doesn't read like it. so who is the new cat?

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 10:21 AM

no worries Lerminade. I actually can't make it tomorrow morning as i'm sleeping in Marin tonight. sucks.

Lot's of duckdives but some good meaty ones in the mix this morning.

surfing is fun.

Posted by: e at March 22, 2006 10:45 AM

I know this has been a recuring subject but who is the chiropractor/back guy that has been successful for the collective you. I've been in constant low back pain for 3 weeks, minimal surfing, but when I do it leads to more intense pain. Looking to head to the doc and get this checked out.

Cheers

Posted by: z at March 22, 2006 11:15 AM

throw it in the bush and see what growls

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 11:20 AM

core training!

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 11:24 AM

z - Not sure about chiro, some are great, lots are whacked.
Call my accupuncturist, Jeff Harrison (he's in the book). He has hepled me a lot. BTW, he's a solid surfer (Mav's regular) and can advise you on ways to avoid reinjury when surfing.

Posted by: Jimmie at March 22, 2006 11:35 AM

Thanks, that is great. Core strenghting is also good but currently hurts too much to do anything really...sitting, standing is enough.

Posted by: z at March 22, 2006 11:48 AM

Maybe some yoga? Lower back pain is often related to super tight ham-strings, though it sounds like you maybe suffered an injury?

Posted by: speedracer at March 22, 2006 11:52 AM

i'm down with the tight hammy thing
no back pains since i've been on a regualr stretching regimen, don't forget to stretch the glutes as well.

Posted by: otf at March 22, 2006 12:00 PM

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 12:01 PM

sweet pics, e. glad you are up and running, at least every once in a while. first day back at work for me so it's nice to cube back to some of your poetry and ludicrous photos. who's spicoli?
wish i could have surfed this morning, but i think the dp is out for the time being, unless it means dawn pooping.
i think chiros help with low back pain, have for me anyway. mine's in oaktown though. let me know if you want her info. she's done the trick for me in the past.

Posted by: steamwand at March 22, 2006 12:03 PM

z, it sounds like to me you probably have herniated a disc. If you ever get numbness or tingling in your extremities, time to see a REAL doctor. You'll need to get an MRI done.

Posted by: MSG at March 22, 2006 12:08 PM

no kidding, you need to go to a doctor, not a chiropractor. Chiro's are not doctors. they are faith healers.
(to themselves, they pray that you make it out of their office before your spine falls apart)

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 12:16 PM

Yeah I wish there was more perfect surf out here

Posted by: Brian at March 22, 2006 12:40 PM

I went up WAY Nor Cal with my friend yesterday to search for surf but we only found a really rocky right, i guess if we dyanimited the rocks out that it would be better

Posted by: Brian at March 22, 2006 12:41 PM

i never understand seeing perfect empty waves like those. dude, put down the camera and charge that shit.

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 12:47 PM

uhhh, there's not much wind out there...anybody grab a lunch sesh?

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 12:55 PM

z - MSG has the right idea. An MRI is a very good idea. That is, if you can get your HMO to spring for it. Usually they want you to get 4-6 weeks of PT before they'll approve an MRI. But getting a good look at what's really happening with your back is essential. If you do have a herniated disc, there is an array of interventions that can be beneficial. Surgery may be needed, but be careful. Get AT LEAST two spinal specialists to look at your MRI and be sure they basically agree in their opinions, before you submit to the blade.
Having said all that. I've been experiencing constant, moderate to severe low back pain - depending on my activity level - for over two years, with NO herniated disc. I have seen all sorts of doctors: GPs, Ortho Docs, Cervical/Spinal Specialists, and physical therapists with Phds. In my experience, the physical therapists and my accupucturist have had the best advise and given me the most relief. Since, in my case there is nothing surgery can do, the only thing that the other care providers can offer me is pain medication. That's fine when the pain gets REALLY bad, but not much help when what I really wannna do is surf without being laid-up for 3-4 days afterwards. Initial PT, core training, and regular yoga practice, along with occaisional accupuncture treatments keeps me pretty well. When I slack off on any of this stuff, my back gets worse. Good Luck.

Posted by: Jimmie at March 22, 2006 01:05 PM

To Niceness, with love.
A few shots from a lonesome but magical final 2 weeks alone. It's great to be home.

Sorry the shots aren't epic, but hopefully they come close to capturing what I was fortunate to enjoy. Until I can edit them properly and get some high res shots online, I hope these holed you all over!

My karma meter was maxed. Now I'm home, it's empty, and I need to start building it up again. Pay it forward, give a wave. I'm out! Mahalo


Just a reminder.

Posted by: Ian at March 22, 2006 01:28 PM

Webber Twin Fin

Posted by: traut at March 22, 2006 01:37 PM

10 day surf trip late may. best bets?

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 02:05 PM

Pacifica

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 02:08 PM

indo or ba**a

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 02:08 PM

corpus christi

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 02:08 PM

Tampa bay

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 02:09 PM

Back Pain...

I haven't had back pain since I put a hot tub in the back yard:-). Glucosamine helps too.

Posted by: Mexi at March 22, 2006 02:14 PM

Z, before you see a doctor or a chiro, read "Healing Back Pain", by Dr. John A. Sarno. Heard about this guy from Howard Stern around 8 years ago and the book changed my entire life. Buy it today, read it tonight.

Posted by: Eric at March 22, 2006 02:14 PM

Welcome home Ian. Great shots! Agh now I have the travel bug

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait at March 22, 2006 02:32 PM

Ian, name those spots boy!
I will reward you with a plethora of T&A.

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 22, 2006 03:21 PM

this is like the niceness of old.
niceness!
Sickness ian.

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 03:31 PM

"Vapors of a Secret Dream"

Got stuck in a wedge
Three feet down a tide pool
Set came in and washed over me
The reef was made of Earth's very bones.

I could breathe underwater
I, misanthrope
Not dead yet!
The sun, electric inhalant
Throws shafts of light
The darkened void illuminates
Shows you where you've been
Raison D'etre
Scarred deeply now, and going back for more.

Outside the fray, the doppleganger
Reflected on undulating, sparkly meniscus
I see him in the line-up
Watery twin
Unlike Narcissus
We stare back at one another
Invting each other
Into each other's...
Brave New World.

Posted by: Ancient Jetties at March 22, 2006 03:46 PM

Sound the claxon!!! Niceness revival has begun....

Posted by: Ancient Jetties at March 22, 2006 03:51 PM

rad poem!

Posted by: e at March 22, 2006 03:51 PM

Right on Ian, congrats on the epic journey!!!

Posted by: artifact at March 22, 2006 03:55 PM

Where are the Onions?

Posted by: Norcheco at March 22, 2006 03:57 PM

Ian told me where those spots are.
For his reward, I am gonna let him ride me like Tommy rode Pamela.
Bring it, big fellah.
and bring your friends, I will bring mine

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 22, 2006 04:14 PM

Lamest Posts=Jenn Sterger

Posted by: The Truth at March 22, 2006 04:20 PM

i don't know. Jen Sterger brings it imho.

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 04:23 PM

The Truth = gay, maybe?

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 04:33 PM

those low-tide beachbreak Ian pics are EXACTLY what i love. argh!

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 04:35 PM

Those Boobs = fake maybe?

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 04:52 PM

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 04:52 PM

mommy mommy i saw a whale!

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 05:04 PM

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 05:13 PM

20 year Outer-sunset locals with families originally from the midwest claiming "local" status. I was born in Stockton. I wear Ugh boots, drive a big truck, am hooked on electro magnetic chaos via the cell phone and I beat my wife on a regular basis because real estate is slow. I am an angry white-man.

Posted by: SMURFS at March 22, 2006 05:33 PM

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 05:47 PM

Repeat Posts=Jenn Sterger

Posted by: The Truth at March 22, 2006 05:50 PM

Some kinda weird dudes on here that's for sure. The BVB stuff sounds partly fetishistic as in some of you kind of want to be like him or at least get to know him or maybe surf as well as he does? The other side of it is strictly hateful. Why? What in him do you see that is so bad? Surely other "locals" behave worse. Why is he such a dick as the one older sounding over the hill fart claims? 20 years of annoyances? Wtf? All I have ever seen from him is solid surfing with a strong loyalty to the regular old crew? Is that such a bad thing?
And then there's the naming. Who are any of you? Do you have a life in which to reflect or is everything outside of yourself?

Posted by: Lance Carson at March 22, 2006 05:58 PM

Back pain............ stretch, glucosomine,chondroiton,msm and flax seed. Eat this stuff for 6-8weeks and see how you feel. If it works..great. If not try something else. You can also through some ginger in there. Natural anti-inflamitory stuff.

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 05:59 PM

pathetic, Lance. pathetic.

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 06:14 PM

ginger is a natular anti-inflamitory? any others out there?

Posted by: i'd like to know. at March 22, 2006 06:15 PM

I know Lance Carson. YOU are no Lance Carson!

Posted by: The Truth at March 22, 2006 06:17 PM

SUN
E WIND 10 KT. WIND WAVES 2 FT OR LESS. NW SWELL 9 FT

Posted by: centervillian at March 22, 2006 07:01 PM

Name, claim, lame....

I am surfing tomorrow. More then some I am sure. Glad E is back in the spirit, don't go killin' it now!

Why don't we all try this for a bit: Get off everyone else's nuts! Yeah, I said it. Surf, be happy, peace out. Don't start swinging off the nuts of others. You know what they say: "No one likes a nut swinger......"

Expect an EXPLOSION of material tomorrow. Thursday may be a day to celebrate!

Posted by: Kaiser at March 22, 2006 08:47 PM

What to expect....

"Today was a good day...."

Ice Cube, circa '92

Posted by: Kaiser at March 22, 2006 08:52 PM

Ginger and flaxseed. The stuff only works if you take it daily & religiously for 6-8 weeks. Try it, all natural stuff.

Salmon another anti inflamitory food. Eat yourself silly.

Posted by: at March 22, 2006 08:56 PM

first off, damn I'm glad your still up e-man. hate to bring up something slightly serious, but I was talking to a park employee the other day and he said that GGNRA was starting the planning process for the future of our very own Ocean Beach. How many people wouldn't mind a bathroom at the north end somewhere besides the beach chalet? How about the bottles on the sand every morning - bet we all don't look forward to accidentally stepping on a busted one. What about the shit outfalls, or the whales that get buried in the sand? Who has a closer relationship to the beach day in, year out than local surfers? Who knows what goes on and doesn't go on? One person talks and it's "oh yeah, thank you, next." A group talks and people take notice, especially if its members have been visiting the beach several times a week for years or even decades. So I for one will be volunteering my time to get involved with this process. If others want to use this forum (while it lasts) to connect up, let me know. meantime, enjoy the down winds.

Posted by: banjo at March 22, 2006 09:36 PM

I love the steamer lane foto e posted today, I hate surfing there (and I almost never do) but that is a great foto. I love flaps too, Kaiser. Can't wait for tomorrow.

And banjo, I'm totaly agreed with more enforcement on the douchebags who leave bottles and trash on the beach, would love to hear more about the ominous sounding "planning process" of which you speak. Not sure I agree that more bathrooms or showers or whatever at the northend or anywhere is something I support. That's the wrong direction, seems to me. But love to hear more about the issues in general.

Posted by: Fergus at March 22, 2006 09:54 PM

no bathrooms, no showers, no chairlifts to the outside bars, no infra-red heat lamps, no parking meters, no tour bus parking, no exercise stations. Sorry Banjo, your input is neither needed, welcome nor local.

Posted by: no mercy at March 22, 2006 11:30 PM

sorry, I was having a moment.

Posted by: NOT bob at March 22, 2006 11:42 PM

10 day surf trip late may...

that is southern hemi season...

try Panama or Costa Rica or El Sal or Mainland Mex.

I'm real happy at the current beach plan. Moving the fires to the north end moved 99% of the beach trash out of the middle Aves. What they really need to do is ban fires, and the beaches would be a lot lot cleaner. Or, manage them appropriately. But the bottom line is people who attend night-time beach bonfires don't pack their trash out. And if they can't clean up after themselves, why should they have fires in the first place?

The best thing for the middle Aves would be destroying the promenade and going back to the tunnels and the elevated high speed Great Highway.

If you don't think Bob is annoying, you probably weren't surfing here in the 80s.

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 05:14 AM

There really is only one "BoB"!

Posted by: The Church of the Subgenious at March 23, 2006 07:01 AM

can we just shut up about bob. christ.

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 07:15 AM
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