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Rippy McRipper

Mauritanian bedouin goat-herder.
Dusty land-cruiser bouncing over sand-strewn paths.
Sun-baked almond-bread sweetness.
Undisclosed equatorial desert points.

Wealthy prep-school friend plans a boat trip.
6 months around the Caribbean
anchor in Anguilla
live coral, turquoise-water solitude.

Talking with some folks in a cantina.
Late night tequila-infused niceties.
They suggest you meet them in the morning.
Pick up at 9, drive to the cliff-strewn overhang.
Look down below at the manic, gulping reef.

September hurricane bonanza.
Fly to Belize and take a bus hundreds of miles.
Hire a fisherman to take you to that coastal bend.
Score the once-a-decade rifling rights all day long.

Check out twsurf.com for rad photos by Michael Kew and others. They didn't appreciate me posting their stuff on here. Sorry about that dudes.

so nice to be home again

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 09:27 AM

sweet coverup in shot two
ought to be gooood out there today, off shore, fading swell---
any reports?

Posted by: snake at March 23, 2006 09:30 AM

NIce pics. It's 1733 here.

Posted by: UK old guy at March 23, 2006 09:34 AM

Thanks for all the advise yesterday. I took option #3, a jacuzzi session at the Grotto with Heff and friends. Miraculously my back feels much better :)

Posted by: z at March 23, 2006 09:49 AM

nice little story. we gotta plan our next surf trip!

fun waves out there this morning. finally had a good session after a couple of extremely kooky ones. got crowded quick.

Posted by: lerm at March 23, 2006 09:57 AM

cool gold coast photos

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 10:32 AM

Great pics! Lovely morning. OB still needs to clean its act up. One last run please....

Worst season on record: Surf Season 05'-06'

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 10:35 AM

In case you didn't know: Surfer's Ear defined
http://www.surfline.com/community/whoknows/whoknows.cfm?id=1976

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 10:38 AM

Finally a surf after three weeks of waiting.

Perhaps worst Feb-March of the Surf Season, there Kai-kai.

Mid November through Mid December was a decent stretch for my way o thinkin.

Posted by: friend #1 at March 23, 2006 10:41 AM

I gotta agree with Kaiser - although there were some nice days in november and early december, october and the rest of this winter have been extremely sub-par.

Shit happens.

Posted by: Q at March 23, 2006 10:52 AM

I heard even niceness had a few bad days recently. whoa. is there no end to the madness? don't let it get you down. stay fluffy everyone!

Posted by: mister goodvibes at March 23, 2006 10:56 AM

Epoxy is the new Black. Best day ever was October 17, 1996 or maybe the better day was February 7, 1988 early.

Posted by: Cube Dweller Mentality at March 23, 2006 11:01 AM

Mid November run was the best of the year in my opinion. After that, the beaches have had nothing more then 2-3 day stretches of decent waves/winds.

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 11:03 AM

Surf Report for the Smurfs: Thursday 11:08am
Under murky skies niceness lurks scheming and scamming her way into junked out putrid brown water with lips and lefts mosty rights but lefts I think. 3-5-7' on the sets. CROWDED.
Wind has switched to hardness from the S-west. Check WISE. Hahahahaha.

Posted by: SHUT IT NICENESS at March 23, 2006 11:05 AM

Or maybe the "better" day is all in your mind...
Label it. Name it. Claim it. Shame it.
Who's the new Rapestah? Boo hoo vibes make me scared to express my oneness with the transplanted crowd. babababababbadvibes. Gotta laugh.

Posted by: Impacted at March 23, 2006 11:08 AM

surf trip anyone

Posted by: e at March 23, 2006 11:21 AM

Turned to crap just like that... Bummer

Posted by: Predominant wind at March 23, 2006 11:33 AM

I'm pretty happy to have gotten 5 great lefts right off this morning, best waves in 2 months.......mother is beginning to put out again.....nothing but props for her.

Posted by: Mr Positive at March 23, 2006 11:54 AM

Keep curating the niceness e.

Posted by: Maliboo Bobby at March 23, 2006 11:58 AM

Its nice to see that kaiser's laidies are back again!
Anybody out there have any thoughts on what to see in panama, nicaragua and CR? I'm heading there this summer and would like to get in the water some and enjoy the people and places of those countries. I'm trying to avoid the tourists, even though i'm gonna be one. You can post it here or contact me at herbie2723 at hot mail dot com. Thanks

Posted by: herb at March 23, 2006 11:59 AM

Glad you're back e....had 20 minutes each day with nothing to do....plus, you're helping me to find the depths of my soul.

Posted by: day is full again at March 23, 2006 12:01 PM

E, how was your vacation?

also, how was your romantic night at the B&B?

Am I detecting that you got engaged? Congratulations!!

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 12:07 PM

"I Like The Tube"

Take me away
The memetic lexicon of the vapid
The Vacuous
Take me away

Bring me in
Tawny morning, Earth's axis sways
Oceanic vortices, specific gravity of amniotic fluid
Bring me in

Spit me out
Temporal being in an entropy shell
Blast me into the ether after 100 years
Spit me out

Posted by: Ancient Jetties at March 23, 2006 12:25 PM

Hey all, long time lurker, never poster, but I'm hoping you can help me out all the same. Can you keep on the look out for:

1. 6'8" Lost shortboard. White. Stomp pad. Excellent condition. Small stress fractures near the nose. Wax just across middle of board.

2. 6'0" SF Surf fish. White. Stomp pad. Even more excellent condition. Practically brand new. Custom shaped by John Shultze. "For Chris" written on stringer.

They, as well as my navy blue 4Runner, were stolen from my garage last night (Wed, 3/22). Made me miss dawn patrol this morn. I hear conditions were niiice.

Any info would be *very* much appreciated. I can be reached at chriss at estech dot com or 415-336-2068.

Now back to your regularly scheduled squabbling.

Chris

Posted by: Chris at March 23, 2006 12:31 PM

ancient jetty rules!

rad poem.

nope.. no engagement or vacation for me.

to be quite honest i basically got blasted at work for not doing enough work (hint - surf report). sucks.

Posted by: e at March 23, 2006 12:31 PM

Chris,

I am so sorry to hear about that. It really f'n sucks! On a few occasions, I forgot to close my garage door and came back from work with all my boards still in my garage. Infact people usually ring my door bell to tell me that my garage is open.

Whereabouts do you live? Did they also rob your house? Will definitely keep a lookout. Get back in the water to make yourself feel btter!

Posted by: mofo at March 23, 2006 12:37 PM

Thanks e, for the free tablet and pixelated pen.

Posted by: Ancient Jetties at March 23, 2006 12:37 PM

Mofo, gracias. I'm @ Pacific & Gough. Garage door was closed. House wasn't robbed. Argh. I'm tryin' to find a ride to the water as we speak. Oh yeah, and a ride to Wise's to get another board...at least I had renter's insurance which'll cover the boards after the deductible.

Posted by: Chris at March 23, 2006 12:39 PM

Welcome back to your blog E.

I managed to squeeze in a session this am before work. I thinks it's my 13th outting of the year. That's only once a week on average! Got some catching up to do.

It felt funny getting out of the water and taking a deep breath. My lungs where stressed, like when you finish a long swimming session and breath hard.

Tricky exit from the water too. Right in front of a big wall of rocks. Made it out unscathed though. Twas fun.

Posted by: Dennis at March 23, 2006 12:43 PM

Chris,

If I was home, I would gladly give you a ride. Its at least nice to know it did not happen in the outer sunset.

Surf wuzzzzz good this mornin. I saw alot of people at the chalet. I went elsewhere, people can be like sheep.

Posted by: mofo at March 23, 2006 12:51 PM

Hey e. I got a similar thing for slacking off at work. It sucks that people at work know I surf too after someone spilled the beans that they saw me running across the GH.

Now, I try to keep ontop of work so that I do not feel guilty for paddling outin the morning and showing up at 10.

Posted by: mofo at March 23, 2006 12:54 PM

I went to a Doc last week to check out corrective eye surgery because I am sick of surfing with contacts - the occasional blind or half blind sessions upon contact loss among other issues. The Doc terrorized me with a story about how amoebas often get lodged between the eye and contact and if an infection occurs the eye will likely be lost!

I had never heard of this before? what is the deal?

Posted by: TJ at March 23, 2006 01:06 PM

There really is only one "BoB"!

Posted by: The church of the Subgenius at March 23, 2006 01:08 PM

you guys working for the man, feeling guilty for
surfing rather than putting in more hours, hiding your passions in order to
play the game. it's sad really. make your own
future and not someone else's.
when i still lived in CA and surfed before and after work
i always had to keep it quiet. after all, a young man trying to build a career needs to sacrifice
big during these years, boys!
WHAT A FUCKING JOKE. i'm running my own business now
and now finally running my own life. it's a good feeling. keep burnin' in 06.
egp

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Posted by: EG Pimp at March 23, 2006 01:16 PM

but i do miss the waves for sure.

Posted by: EG Pimp at March 23, 2006 01:17 PM

shred is a state of mind egpimp.

keep pimpin in 06.

Posted by: e at March 23, 2006 01:18 PM

egpimp, do you ever get the feeling that your employees hate you?

also, how is the surf over in AZ, anyway?

is it really 'hard out there for a pimp" as the song says?

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 23, 2006 01:24 PM

Herb,

Best way to avoid tourists in CR is to hang in San Jose for a few days. It's not a very nice city, kinda boring, but real Ticos live and party there. Ticos don't usually go to the beach areas, or even the rainforests much. But they do salsa dance, shop, play pick up soccer, etc in the various hoods of San Jose. Most gringo tourists are a little let down by the city, but try speaking a little spanish to some middle class locals and you will have a great time. Even better try making some contacts before you leave.

Surfwise you might want to try Puerto Viejo on the Carribean side. They have a mini-season in July, depending on if you luck into a hurricane swell or not. Lots of drugged out ex-pats there, but it's undeniably beautiful, with a top class wave right there in town and a few beach breaks near by. You can take a bus there, about 4 hours, that leaves from near downtown San Jose. Plus, Panama is just down the road. Good luck!

Posted by: Surfseeker7 at March 23, 2006 01:29 PM

its not putting in more hours or working for the man. its showing up at work when you are supposed to and doing the work you are supposed to do. its called responsibilities. i do, unfortunately feel guilty if i am irresponsible and show up late due to surfing.

Posted by: mofo at March 23, 2006 01:33 PM

egpimp, you're only young once, and old for the rest of your life. You probably missed out on the best years of your youth. That's priceless.

Man, it was pretty fun out there this morning. The current going north was shitty though. Got pulled quarter mile up the beach in 2 hours of being out. All in all, some good sized meaty ones occassionally coming through. But it turned to crap pretty fast. Best O.B. in 2 months, that's for sure.

Posted by: MSG at March 23, 2006 01:35 PM

jenn, you little whore! watch your mouth young lady. hey, the good thing is that I don't have employees except myself.

e - yes, shred is a state of mind. i just get blown up over corporate control of our lives and happiness. peace to all in 06.
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Posted by: EG Pimp at March 23, 2006 01:35 PM

egpimp, what kind of work do you do?

ps- yes, i am a whore. a hot one.

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 23, 2006 01:41 PM

waited and went to a low-tide spot sharkbait and i scored lotsa sweet lefts at yesterday. but today it was pretty blown, as were nearby spots; didn't see any good rides. skated instead. must remember, springtime, get out early. yesterday was really fun though; steep, pockety but pretty easy to make the drops.

Posted by: kloo at March 23, 2006 01:43 PM

nice on the skate session kloo. just had a little session at lunch myself. picked up "Dora Lives" too. productive power hour. now i just want to read all afternoon. and that's not going to happen.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 23, 2006 01:52 PM

jenn -i actually do want you.

I run online marketing/lead generation/customer acquisition programs (high quality shit, not spam or pop-ups)for financial services clients by day, jazz-funk musician by night. In a way I'm still the chameleon. time for a burn. egp

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 01:53 PM

are your financial services clients not actually corporations?
it seems like you are a hypocrite.

what kind of financial service client isnt a corporation?

you work for the man.
i'll still blow you though, even though you are a liar. do you like silicon?

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 23, 2006 01:57 PM

jenn - things are getting a little over your head at this point. it's quarter beer night off campus tonight. go have some fun.

Posted by: EG Pimp at March 23, 2006 02:08 PM

get a room you two

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 02:09 PM

What is Lead Generation all about?

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 02:15 PM

Jenn Sterger=YAWN...

Posted by: The Truth at March 23, 2006 02:15 PM

Lead Generation = phone solicitors interrupting your dinner

Posted by: police association benefit fundraising scams at March 23, 2006 02:21 PM

egpimper, thats what i thought, the corporations pay you, so you are still their bitch. get real.

anon guy, "lead generation' = phishing for people to send spam to or cold call, then you sell this information to corporations.

as for the anon "The Truth", why do you hate me so much? you've got nothing better to do than bash me? i hate The Truth. Lie to me.

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 23, 2006 02:23 PM

"Leads? Leads"

Posted by: big lebowski cop at March 23, 2006 02:24 PM

Old Gill is gonna get those leads! Don't mess this one up, Gill!
Aww, Jeez, I didn't get any new leads today!
I guess it's no food for dinner tonight...


Posted by: Old Gil at March 23, 2006 02:43 PM

Pretty fun today! Stoked! Here's a couple more photos.

Take the road less traveled and ye shall be rewarded.


McGee? Naaaaaw..

Thanks for all the warm welcome home wishes yesterday. It feels good to be home, and surf waves with a little juice to 'em. I'll try to keep the photos coming, but until I get my own site, I have to use some crap free site which destroys the quality of the pictures in the upload process.

Posted by: Ian at March 23, 2006 02:45 PM

EGp,

I agree with you, working for the man sucks and it isn't, generally following your dreams. It often sucks the life out of you and leaves you empty. i spent a good part of my twenties working 7-8 months saving money then quiting and leaving until i was broke again, then starting over. That left me with 4-5 months of living.
Now I feel that half of me is working for the man and half of me is serving the community, and I still get my 4 months of life. But sometimes you people need to work in order to keep the dream (family) alive.
But pimp, you ain't livin the dream if you are living away from the ocean. You are selling your soul for the dollar, and now you are the man..

Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2006 02:48 PM

I meant people, not YOU people

Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2006 02:50 PM

janes addiction "My Cat's name is Maceo" is a pretty cool tune.

Posted by: janes fan at March 23, 2006 02:56 PM

Ian, you're the man. Feel free to send some of your fave pics to me at e@niceness.org and i'll post them up at the top of the report.

Posted by: e at March 23, 2006 02:57 PM

damn, mexi! you were so close but just missed it at the end.

True, I'm not livin' the EG dream that I used to but I did not leave CA for the $$$$$. I left because I had twins who were approaching two years of age. My wife and I wanted to raise our kids around things that were most important to us. That was family. We didn't have anyone except the two of us in CA. Extremely tough decision BUT IT WASN'T FOR THE MONEY.

are we sharing and caring yet?
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Posted by: EG Pimp at March 23, 2006 02:58 PM

You're a good man EG...

Posted by: Mexi at March 23, 2006 03:02 PM

why is that one baby hitting the ground wiht her chin before kissing the other baby?

welcome back to america ian! is that japan?

Posted by: baj at March 23, 2006 03:02 PM

damn. twin pimps on the prowl. bummer they won't be regulating El Grenanda lineups in the next few years.

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 03:02 PM

Respect. It takes a village..............twins.....all the village you can get

Posted by: Hillary Knows at March 23, 2006 03:03 PM

anyone know what Manzunte or San Agustinillo beaches are like in Mexico. My non-surfing friend is possibly headed there and wants to know if it's touristy/lame/cool/whatever.

shred on.

Posted by: e at March 23, 2006 03:17 PM

yea baj - mount fuji ay...

Posted by: coast45 at March 23, 2006 03:23 PM

Ian that's Taranaki isn't it?

Posted by: NZ Swell at March 23, 2006 03:46 PM

Stop the pay meters!!!!
They want to install parking meters at VFW and along the beach,from Kellys to Lincoln way.
Phone 415-267-6999 and leave a message on the parking department message line.Or write the mayor.
WE can't turn this place into L. A.!!!

Posted by: Kelly at March 23, 2006 03:57 PM

Hey what happened to the lindy parking fare thing? Are they going to put that in place? Pay for parking to surf in poo-poo water....

Posted by: mofo at March 23, 2006 04:04 PM

I'm getting a jump start on 4:20, since we had our 1, and seemingly only, day of morning glass for March. Good to see the wind starting to get some south in it again so we can get back to our regular programing -- VAS.

EG, you da man. e, nice pics per usual.

-d

p.s. Yup, gonna rain and blow again next week. Yippie!

"ATTENTION THEN FOCUSES ON ANOTHER POTENTIAL STRONG STORM ARRIVING BY MONDAY AFTERNOON OR NIGHT. ENSEMBLES ARE QUITE BULLISH WITH THIS MOIST AND DEEP STORM TO ARRIVE FROM THE WEST. HAVE THEREFORE GONE WITH HIGHER POPS THAN NORMAL FOR THIS FAR OUT. WILL HAVE TO WATCH FOR HIGH QPF AND STRONG WIND POTENTIAL."

Posted by: dano at March 23, 2006 04:09 PM

Vaporizer. What is everyones experience with this speaking of 420. I just bought one, and I am wondering where does the smoke go? Is there some strange side effect I will see in 10 years?

Posted by: vaporizer - mofo at March 23, 2006 04:23 PM

Sorry for all the questions. this is niceness q&a

Posted by: mofo at March 23, 2006 04:23 PM

if you like funk and you like Jerry Garcia guitar playing, check out this album.

Posted by: jerry fan at March 23, 2006 04:27 PM

Hey Jenn,

I've heard that line from gals sooooo many times!

Lie to me, Pinochio... tell me a WHOPPER!

Posted by: Pinochio at March 23, 2006 04:30 PM

E I thought you got fired or laid off.
You might consider self censoring the "played hooky from work" and "pre-sesh puff" diary entries.
I suspect my employees have blogs talking about me coming in late and closing my office door to check surf reports/blogs all day.

Posted by: C is for Closeout at March 23, 2006 04:59 PM

Careful with that vaporizor. You'll might think your're getting nothing and over draw. The highest I get comes from vaporware. Good for the lungs - K.O. punch to the brain.

Posted by: Q at March 23, 2006 05:26 PM

does this g-string make me look fat?

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 05:28 PM

O.B. comes to Hawaii. This is what O.B. reminded me of this morning... before the winds totally made a mess of it.

Posted by: MSG at March 23, 2006 05:31 PM

wow

Posted by: baj at March 23, 2006 05:48 PM

msg
you were charging o.b. in your boardshorts?
you animal!

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 06:19 PM

Damn MSG thats tight

Posted by: Brian at March 23, 2006 06:30 PM

Angel Island looked like that this morning before the winds came up.

Posted by: namer at March 23, 2006 06:30 PM

E - re Mauritania - I'd recommend that'd be one of the last places you'd want to go for a surf trip - as per your map, that's the disputed Western Sahara you've put on there.

Nothing but horrific scrubby dessert to crappy close out wind chop (most of the year.) Very few towns, and those are military bases and very unfriendly.

Perhaps if you wanted to re enact some Mad Max fantasy might be worthwhile! Lots of live minefields (place was a long time war zone), so lots of skeletons of blown up vehicles. Not to mention the coast is littered with ships that ran aground and then got looted.

See pic taken out of my window for an example! (there's 4 shipwrecks in frame there, athough they are hard to see)

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Further south is a different story tho Senegal and Gambia much more fun (although not sure how good the surf is).

Posted by: ankors at March 23, 2006 07:34 PM

Taranaki rules!
180 degree swell angle, lava reefs... mmmmmm the 'Naki.

Posted by: NZ Swell at March 23, 2006 07:51 PM

Posted by: plan your next surf trip in SOMALIA at March 23, 2006 07:57 PM

ankors - deep undercover - on his way to the heart of darkness - yeah

the only vaporizer worth owning:

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Posted by: needles at March 23, 2006 07:59 PM


plenty of fetch & swell potential

unknown, unridden setups galore

Posted by: SOMALIA is the place! at March 23, 2006 08:15 PM

Is the green accessible in somalia or western sahara? I have been to some scary places and might be up for another adventure.

Posted by: 420? at March 23, 2006 08:41 PM

My roomate just got a volcano a week ago.
Things have n't been the same since.

Posted by: at March 23, 2006 08:45 PM

Cans

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 09:17 PM

Posse

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 09:18 PM

Sunscreen

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 09:19 PM

Barbell

Posted by: Kaiser at March 23, 2006 09:21 PM

aaah nice kaiser

Posted by: Brian at March 23, 2006 09:29 PM

That first pic today e, is siick!

FYI: Marituania has the worst record in the world for child slavery and labor abuse.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 23, 2006 10:13 PM

yeah they still love their slavery over there. I guess they banned it on the 80's but it's still very common - just a way of life for them.

One of the most amusing border crossings I've ever done. border is a tiny shack in the middle of the desert on the border of a minefield. No roads or anything in or out - so not exactly difficult to miss. Although we acutally found it.

Best bribe I'd ever given a border guard - got into the country free for a half eaten bag of pistachios. Handed them over like they were vintage beluga caviar. He seemed happy.

Posted by: ankors at March 23, 2006 10:32 PM

"October 31st, 1839, Thursday. This morning we witnessed a shocking spectacle. Twenty (20) dead bodies of men, women and children were brought to Rewa as a present from Tanoa. They were distributed among the people to be cooked and eaten. They were dragged about in the water and on the beach. The children amused themselves by sporting with and mutilating the body of a little girl. A crowd of men and women maltreated the body of a grey-haired old man and that of a young woman. Human entrails were floating down the river in front of the mission premises. Mutilated limbs, heads, and trunks of the bodies of human beings have been floating about, and scenes of disgust and horror have been presented to our view in every direction. How true it is that the dark places of the earth are full of the habitations of cruelty."

"November 1st, Friday. This morning a little after break of day I was surprised to hear voices of several persons who were talking very loudly near the front fence of the mission premises. On going out to ascertain the cause of the noise, I found a human head in our garden. This was the head of the old man whose body had been abused on the beach. The arm of the body had been broken by a bullet which passed through the bone near to the shoulder, and upper part of the skull had been knocked off with a club. The head had been thrown into our garden during the night, with the intention no doubt, of annoying us and shocking our feelings."

"These poor victims of war were brought from Verata, and were killed and brought away by victors to be roasted and eaten. Many women and children were taken alive to be kept for slaves. About 30 living children were hoisted up to the mastheads as flags of triumph. The motion of the canoes while sailing soon killed the helpless creatures and silenced their piercing cries. Other children were taken, alive, to Bau that the boys there might learn the art of Feegeean warfare by firing arrows at them and beating them with clubs. For days they have been tearing and devouring like wolves and hyenas."
- Rev. David Cargill, Methodist Missionary, Rewa, Fiji, 1839

"One of the servants of the king a few months ago ran away. She was soon, however, brought back to the king's house. There, at the request of the queen, her arm was cut off below the elbow and cooked for the king, who ate it in her presence, and then ordered that her body be burnt in different parts. The girl, now a woman, is still living.

"Two men that were taken alive in the war at Viwa were removed from thence to Kamba, to be killed. The Bau chief told his brother - who had been converted to our mission - the manner in which he intended them to be killed. His brother said to him: "That will be very cruel. If you will allow the men to live, I will give you a canoe." The Bau chief answered: "Keep your canoe. I want to eat men." His brother then left the village that he might not witness the horrible sight.

"The cruel deed was then perpetrated. The men doomed to death were made to dig a hole in the earth for the purpose of making a native oven, and were then required to cut firewood to roast their own bodies. They were then directed to go and wash, and afterwards to make a cup of a banana-leaf. This, from opening a vein in each man, was soon filled with blood. This blood was then drunk, in the presence of the sufferers, by the Kamba people.

"Sern, the Bau chief, then had their arms and legs cut off, cooked and eaten, some of the flesh being presented to them. He then ordered a fish-hook to be put into their tongues, which were then drawn out as far as possible before being cut off. These were roasted and eaten, to the taunts of "We are eating your tongues!" As life in the victims was still not extinct, an incision was made in the side of each man, and his bowels taken out. This soon terminated their sufferings in this world."
- Jaggar, Methodist Missionary, Fiji, 1844

"We cannot tell you how many have been slain. Hundreds of wretched human beings have been sent to their account, with all their sins upon their heads. Dead bodies were thrown upon the beach at Vewa, having drifted from Bau, where they were thrown into the sea, there being too many at Bau to be eaten. Bau literally stank for many days, human flesh having been cooked in every hut and the entrails having been thrown outside as food for pigs, or left to putrefy in the sun.

"The Somosomo people were fed with human flesh during their stay at Bau, they being on a visit at the time. Some of the chiefs of other tribes, when bringing their food, carried a cooked human being on one shoulder and a pig on the other; but they always preferred the "long pig," as they call a man, when baked. One woman who had been clubbed was left upon the beach in front of our house at Vewa. The poor creature's head was smashed to pieces and the body quite naked. Whether it was done by the heathen to insult us, or not, we do not know.

"One Christian man was clubbed at Rewa, and part of his body was eaten by the Vewa heathen and his bones then thrown near our door. My lad gathered them up and buried them, and afterwards learned that they were the bones of one of his friends. After Rewa was destroyed, heaps of dead bodies lay in all directions; their bones still lie bleaching in the sun.

"We do not, and we cannot tell you all that we know of Feegeean cruelty and crime. Every fresh act seems to rise above the last. A chief at Rakeraki had a box in which he kept human flesh. Legs and arms were salted for him and thus preserved in this box. If he saw anyone, even if of his friends, who was fatter that the rest, he had him - or her - killed at once, and part roasted and part preserved. His people declared that he eats human flesh every day.

"At Bau, the people preserve human flesh and chew it as some chew tobacco. They carry it about with them, and use it in the same way as tobacco. I heard of an instance of cruelty the other day that surpasses everything I have before heard of the kind. A canoe was wrecked near Natawar, and many of the occupants succeeded in swimming ashore. They were taken by the Natawar people and ovens were at once prepared in which to roast them. The poor wretches were bound ready for the ovens and their enemies were waiting anxiously to devour them. They did not club them, lest any of their blood should be lost. Some, however could not wait until the ovens were sufficiently heated, but pulled the ears off the wretched creatures and ate them raw.

"

Posted by: all praises due to BVB at March 24, 2006 06:18 AM

what a loser.

Posted by: what would he do without this blog? at March 24, 2006 08:13 AM

thank you e, for giving butt-raisin-face a reason to live

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 09:02 AM

THIS is why surfing is going to hell.....

http://forum.surfermag.com/forum/showflat.php?Number=952120

- "Bro, I just hooked up a new Merrick for only $350! Its TIGHT, you should hook one up."

Little do ya know, some plant in China kicked it off an assembly line just less then a week ago.

Posted by: Kaiser at March 24, 2006 10:01 AM

If you had three months to travel and surf, where would you go?
I'm contemplating:
Costa Rica: 1 Month
Peru: 1 Month
Chile: 1 Month

Posted by: bz880 at March 24, 2006 10:19 AM

Lindy: 1 Month
EGJetty: 1 Month
Steamers Lane: 1 Month

Posted by: screw the blog and go at March 24, 2006 10:24 AM

- "Bro, I just hooked up a new Merrick for only $350! Its TIGHT, you should hook one up."

That is exactly what I hate about surfing. I hate the phony stupid kids with their talk. Rip, brah! I hate the surf shop talk. I just love to surf!

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 10:34 AM

I would stick with Peru and Chile, but blow off CR and go to Ecudor or Argintina.

Posted by: speedracer at March 24, 2006 10:44 AM

http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2006/03/24/MNG22HTITV1.DTL&type=science

Posted by: goonamissthefavoritereefsandpoints at March 24, 2006 10:50 AM

bad news our government is trying to hide

Posted by: gonnamissthefavoritereefsandpoints at March 24, 2006 10:52 AM

I'm looking for a new board, 6'8ish probably epoxy, couldn't find anything I liked up here and am thinking of going down to Santa Cruz to look. Can anyone recommend good surf shops down there? I know there is a ton I'd like to know who has good shortboard selections that I shouldn't miss.

thanks!

Posted by: first new board in 3 years at March 24, 2006 10:54 AM

Outside Angel Island set wave!


Posted by: Surfseeker7 at March 24, 2006 11:00 AM

Bro. Larry Merrick. Epoxy scab. Niceness lacky hacky sacky. I sit at my desk and all day long I hate BV hate BV. Why do I hate him so much when everyone else loves the guy. The object of the gane is to get rid of the rabble leaving the waves for those who deserve them. We know who you are. We know what you are. Now why don't you kill yourself.

Posted by: Frederick N. at March 24, 2006 11:06 AM

surfed with the masses in pacifica. It wuz actually pretty good until a long board hit me in the head. The guy did not even try to hold on.

It was really fun sat away from the crowds and the sets were still coming in. lindy on a good day seems to still be semi-closed out.

Posted by: mofo at March 24, 2006 11:13 AM

oh GOODIE they're talking about me again on the blog!

Posted by: there IS a god at March 24, 2006 11:17 AM

you should curate an art show entitles "watch me stick cucumbers up my butt". i'd pay a few dollars to see that.

Posted by: brokeback point at March 24, 2006 11:41 AM


for years, this exotic surf explorers dream break has been my screensaver, the friendly natives are so easy to talk with in the parking lot

the main losmen in the village located right in front of the break

a bit rustic and still non-Blackberry enabled, rooms are comfortable, once you get used to them

Posted by: go to the MAR at March 24, 2006 11:48 AM

anyone who has a problem with BVB knows where to find him, so do so instead of clogging the blog with anonymous trolling comments. we all know that ends badly.

Posted by: hall monitor at March 24, 2006 11:50 AM

3 months
hmmm--
1 month wicked weasel model #1
1 month wicked weasel model #2
1 month wicked weasel model #3

Posted by: snake at March 24, 2006 12:00 PM

this is where he lives 24/7, which is why people write the stuff they do about him, here.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 12:01 PM

sorry, i know it only encourages the little guy. can't resist trying to give him a taste of his own meds sometimes. ill refrain next time. and you know where to find me also. oh wait! i dont have a huge yap and im not an attention whore!

Posted by: last time i swear. at March 24, 2006 12:30 PM

I personally think many of BVB's original rants and comments to surf mags etc... were pretty well observed and understandable (although I am sure some thought ott).

However I can't have alot of sympathy for the fact that people trolling here for him - since he devoted alot of time to heavy duty trolling himself about all the ridiculous 'naming and claiming' crap about fp and ob.

And as for the whole local issue, (not just BVB at all) well that's just insanely small minded and symptomatic of people unable to deal with the reality of here and now.

Cause and effect I'm afraid. Give shit, get shit back.

Anyhow look on the bright side - gives both parties something inane and moronic to whine on about to whittle away the hours.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 01:00 PM

so true

Posted by: whittler at March 24, 2006 01:30 PM

Hey SLAYER, it's RENO TIME !!!!!!!

Posted by: Blitzer at March 24, 2006 01:36 PM

WOO HOO!!!

Posted by: Moose at March 24, 2006 01:59 PM



Posted by: I dream of the MAR at March 24, 2006 02:08 PM

when is 420?

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 02:17 PM

2 hours on my clock

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 24, 2006 02:21 PM

3 months
hmmm--
1 night Jenn Sterger
1 month Jennifer Connelley
2 months Naomi Watts

Posted by: Bob Kelso at March 24, 2006 02:35 PM

Look at this... this is excellent technique, wake-surfing on what looks like an epoxy shortboard.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-4162877388494292304

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 02:41 PM

How is the surf in Trancoso, Bahia in Brazil? Anyone know?

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 02:51 PM

holy shit! Alcatel just bought Lucent.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 03:06 PM

yaker zoo

Posted by: yakers dont belong here at March 24, 2006 03:39 PM

it is time

Posted by: 420 at March 24, 2006 04:20 PM

I think that GG Bridge pic might be a FAKE.

So, maybe we sometime could have an extended debate about BVB, pro or con? It would be cool if we could do it all in anonymous posts.

Been filling in this surfing-sucky winter with rock climbing and skateboarding. Rock climbing gave me a messed up finger and skateboarding a bunch of huge bruises and a kind of twisted ankle. Surfing for two years, nothing but fitness and nose-water. Apart from the drowning and shark things, it's a pretty good deal for the reluctant geezer.

Posted by: kloo at March 24, 2006 04:32 PM

love that foamy linda mar pic, btw.

Posted by: kloo at March 24, 2006 04:37 PM

It is 26 days, 10 hours, 39 minutes and 43 seconds until 4:20 on 4/20!
REPENT

Posted by: The big day is coming! at March 24, 2006 04:40 PM

how do you purchase illegal drugs around here? will anyone help me secure some illegal intoxicants? thanks! please construe this as an offer of money or other negotiable goods for illegal drugs. thanks!

Posted by: kloo at March 24, 2006 04:46 PM

Jenn Sterger Rules!

Image hosting by Photobucket

Posted by: The Fan Club at March 24, 2006 04:58 PM

Jenn Sterger Rules!

Image hosting by Photobucket

Posted by: The Fan Club at March 24, 2006 04:58 PM

i luv sf, this place is flooded with green stuff. That vaporizer thing kicked my ass last night, i was stumbling around the GH last night.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 05:13 PM

god wake surfing truly is the bottom of the rung. A sad sad redneck sport. And they totally fuck up the lake for skiers.

Plus that guy was crap.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 05:25 PM

have a great weekend everybody! btw,who wants to plow my field?

Posted by: Jenn Sterger at March 24, 2006 05:32 PM

Posted by: Jenn Sterger having a "moment" at March 24, 2006 05:56 PM

get real,she's a skinny, unathletic, sorta unfortunate looking girl with fake tits glued on.

i'd do her, though.

says the fat internet nerd.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 06:19 PM

HA

Posted by: nice one at March 24, 2006 06:42 PM

Posted by: heathens at March 24, 2006 06:47 PM

Anonymous post about something

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 06:48 PM

Neutral comment regarding post.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 06:49 PM

Bored pseudo-angry response

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 06:49 PM

what a gammut

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 06:52 PM

24 comments- 12 are from BVB, the other 12 are from people who need a good rant-and-rave

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 06:53 PM

If BVB was as soulful as he likes to portay himself, he'd not post. Not even once.

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 07:02 PM

IRIE

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 07:38 PM

beblubbered, bvb bashing barbarocrats bro-out on niceness

Posted by: not bob at March 24, 2006 07:57 PM

I love my Culture roots station inna my pandora.com irieness.

Posted by: Hb at March 24, 2006 08:35 PM

Jenn Sterger = tt

Posted by: at March 24, 2006 09:26 PM

Posted by: once upon a time, there was the MAR at March 25, 2006 09:48 AM

pedro still looks kind of brown though

Posted by: at March 25, 2006 12:32 PM

looks like it was closed-out back then too.

I can't believe the taco bell was there that early either.

they oughta put a couple of big fat fake reefs on that beach. the refraction properties of that cove will always make it a mushy close-out.

Posted by: at March 25, 2006 12:56 PM

Saturday night already and I'm bored, despite the red wine and niceness. Say something to cheer me up guys.......

Posted by: UK old guy at March 25, 2006 01:54 PM

Mmmmm.........all gone surfing, eh? Alright for some.....

Posted by: UK old guy at March 25, 2006 02:12 PM

That's a good point. The north side of lindy would be an excellent spot for a decent reef project. Not hard to justify. Somebody draw up a proposal, and I'll submit.

Posted by: at March 25, 2006 03:08 PM

UK, more wine and the Ricky Gervais podcast are what the doc' recommends.

Posted by: at March 25, 2006 05:23 PM

Dooooooood. San Francisco magazine. Check out the April issue everybody - I'm sure there will be good times had here with whats printed in those pages.

If those guys can make a living doing what they're doing - more power to them. But why the need to write about yourselves and the beach and publish it? I'll never understand. Why ruin it for everyone else?

I think a beach culture is a good thing but no need to turn it into a J Crew ad and hope the rights to your life story gets bought by Hollywood and Mathey McConaughey plays you on the silver screen. It is such a LA mentality - I can see how people get so livid.

Best of luck.

Posted by: Rob Machado at March 25, 2006 06:46 PM

beaulieu vinyards burgundy!

Posted by: tomato face at March 25, 2006 09:35 PM

I read that SF Magazine article. One good thing about it, though, is that I learned a lot about Bill Hickey. Props to him for coming back from that nasty wipeout.

Posted by: steve at March 25, 2006 10:59 PM

Hey Rob, good job. I am sooo glad we had that MTV show last night on my celebrity surf contest. I heart Ashlee. Soooooo glad she won. U r a great guy Rob. Thanks for selling out with me. KIT. Kelly

Posted by: Kelly Slater at March 26, 2006 08:51 AM

that was like a contest for people with down syndrome or something, except billionaires

Posted by: at March 26, 2006 09:19 AM

Kelly, Machado Dorian and Benji have always been the full celeb stooges but it was strange seeing Ross Clarke-Jones and Keith Malloy standing around speechless, dolts with phony grins-- MTV comes to town and out the window goes the dignity. gotta admit tho the more I see Kelly the more I like the guy, he's no Gerr but does have a pretty good sense of humor.

Posted by: at March 26, 2006 09:36 AM

Rob Machado you are piece of shit. On the one hand you play the 'BVB writes all the nasty comments' hand like its your lame surfer mentality mantra and then you turn around and trash my boys from Mollusk. Out which side of your HOLE do you speak?
See how it is. Culture whores envious of those with noteriety and mention.
This flub of a flake writing about 'the little guy'

[BVB] is nothing more than an angry tall troll himself. I can almost see the clod in my third eye and he aint a pretty picture...
A lot is two words not one.
My next exhibit: SURF FACES OF THE PAST PRESENT AND FUTURE. Portraits in a series of Niceness anonomous trolls depicted in their natural habitat; the cubicle, the squalid Sunset bottom rung apartment etc., etc..

Posted by: All About It Farse Ass at March 26, 2006 10:02 AM

Hey Kloo. How about you post a pic of your sorry ass; either surfing or dual fucking the cucumber with Clodanon?

Posted by: Weaksister at March 26, 2006 10:08 AM

Posted by: art show time at March 26, 2006 10:14 AM

Posted by: at March 26, 2006 10:16 AM

http://the.honoluluadvertiser.com/article/2003/Feb/07/il/il01a.html

Posted by: Very very good... at March 26, 2006 10:18 AM

http://www.newyorksurf.com/modules/news/article.php?storyid=103

Posted by: GO HOME TROLL at March 26, 2006 10:22 AM

Posted by: come to my art show at March 26, 2006 10:29 AM

Posted by: Who's that trip trapping??! at March 26, 2006 10:29 AM


Is that the troll of fort point?

Posted by: lickey flora at March 26, 2006 11:13 AM

Dear: Clodanon/anon.anon.aristocratnoid.com. You're kinda on the right track this morning. If you want to be in the show send CD or slides to me c/o MOMA SFbefore June 2006. If you can stop hating yourself for one minute here is the flavor I'm looking for: http://www.cranbrookart.edu/museum/shoot.html
Otherwise, get a life.

Posted by: Dickey Mora at March 26, 2006 11:27 AM

Fort Point regular "trolls" "locals" dicks and assholes number about 40 odd very nice very intelligent dedicated souls. You can name BVB and shame his status but him being a 25 year" tranny" is the tip of the iceburg. Trust me, you have [a lot] of people to get through on the sordid path you're on. I suggest less coffee, try decaf tea preferably herbal; then take YOUR cucumber and shove it up your ass for a rousing colonic. You'll feel and surf and look (I hope) better! Alright. GO FOR IT DUDE.
See you in the water!!! (: lol

Posted by: Cadaver at March 26, 2006 11:36 AM

cucumbers aside, your prolly a decent person Dickey, but yer big mouth keeps getting you in trouble

Posted by: great hwy at March 26, 2006 12:41 PM

Damn, just when you thought the morons would go away, they start coming back. BVB posts, posts about a crappy wave called Fort Point and its locals, posts using pro's names are all tired. How many times can someone beat a dead horse into the ground? It's like a day time talk show.

Posted by: tired of this shit at March 26, 2006 03:22 PM

Posted by: at March 26, 2006 03:43 PM

That is a wonderful photo.
Full size please Mr... ummm Mrs... ummm whoever.
POST FULL SIZE!

Posted by: at March 26, 2006 07:52 PM
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