Scrundle
Hey Hey.
A little window of summertime yesterday.
I was camping down in Henry Cowell on Saturday night after surfing horrid, completely disorganized mayhem in the morning. I figured I could leave the coast for a day and not worry about missing quality waves. Ha!!
Got down to beautiful Felton, CA around 7pm and promply realized that i forgot my sleeping bag. Hell yeah! A night of frigid tossing and turning ensued. Tried to make the most of my stubby blanket. Did pushups to stay warm. Ended up reading the Johnny Cash autobiography most of the night until it began warming up around 7. The guy grew up picking cotton in Arkansas. He was friends with Elvis. Friends with Roy Orbison, who lost his wife and then two of his kids in a house fire. Johnny Cash also did a ton of speed. About 10 years worth of nearly daily amphetamines. He got into many car crashes while under the influence. One of which started a forest fire near Ojai. The fire displaced most of the California Condors that had been making a mini comeback in the area. Johnny went to court for starting the fire and was unrepetent when told about the Condors. He had to pay a huge fine.
Anyway.. then we took an amazing hike through the forest. Ended up swimming in the San Lorenzo river in the 90 degree sunshine. So fun..
but.. then soon after.. i received a few calls that the beach was going off. Glassy, peeling, fun, warm, bikinis, waves, dude where are you? arggh! Of course i was driving around San Jose on my way back to Oakland.
Jammed for a spell and then voyaged across the bridge to meet Elias for an end-of-the-day surf. Dude had his self-shaped, egg-like single fin and was pumped to catch a few. We found a lonely peak out there and enjoyed. Elias backdoored a purdy wave and found his way into a small tube. Pretty stylish. I mostly kooked on the few solid waves i tracked down. Blew most of the mouth-watering opportunities that rolled my way. Fumbled take-offs, lost my balance on perfect walls, chose the shitty first wave when the next four waves were succulent. but.. surfing still kicks ass. Thanks Huey for a day of surfables.
Looks white-capped and windy this morning.
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I apologize to anyone who has tried to comment on the site. I still don't have the template quite right for registration so even if you register through typekey it won't work on niceness. I need to stay after work one of these days (no internet at home) and just crank through it. Hacker guy you rule!
If anyone has better ideas on how to deal with the discussion board (comments) please email me at e@niceness.org. Making people have to register will definitely change the character and vibe of the site. Most people agree that it will probably make it suck. sucks.
peace.
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Mark Hagen sent some killer photos
Amazing photos from Michael Kew!
Bobby Martinez wins T-poo
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