E's Surf Report

Slightly boggle the drop but hold on.
The wave forms up nicely.
A vertical wall looms large.
Just begging to be smacked.
Lots of speed.
Pivot off the bottom.
Whip up into the upper reaches of the lip.
Sluuddddge!
Air-droppy re-entry.
Surfing.

-----------------------

Alain in Holland wrote this email:

hey e,
so today i committed to spending my summer indoors,
working in a design office here in Holland. I guess
there could be worse ways to spend the summer, but
it's still not cali. But I figured that since I had
already replaced the ocean with the pool and real
waves with the wind chop on the canals, I might as
well go all the way with this euro experience.
I have to say it has been a real humbling process
trying to re-define my identity outside of surfing and
the beach. But to be honest, I wish every wave rider
would make the sacrifice to put some time in away from
the coast. Not just because I am jealous of all the
fucks getting to surf everyday, but because enduring
the whole "fish out water" thing would have an
incredibly positive affect in lineups across the
globe. Or I guess it could work the other way around
and cause a lot of drunken fights in inland bars. as
for myself, i know when i return it won't take much
more than a 6in to make me stoked.
Anyways, during one of my class periods last week
we had to develop our own freestate. I took this ASL
debate I always read about on your blog and developed
my own version of living the ASL in SF. It is based
around the concept of living in a migrating costal
state-no fixed location. Tribal- living off the land,
squatting in abandoned monuments and following the
mico-weather/season patterns in SF. So that one may
can devote all their freetime to leisure. The poster
isn’t totally accurate but I attached the PDF anyways.
I thought you might get a kick out of it. I also
attached some waves if you are still looking for surf
pics to post. not the best quality, but they take me
close to the barrel and even closer to some summers of
fun during a much different life.
I have rid updating myself on most happenings back
home as I try to fully emerge here. But for some
reason, I still check your site everyday. It’s always
a treat. Your writing and perspective is addicting. I
find myself living through your written images,
getting amped along the way. Keep rocking it solid.
Steady and out.

And dude, get that blog back up.

Alain

Alain's creation

Alain photos

------------------

The comments should be working in the next few days. Still ironing out kinks. Thanks for your patience.

------------------