E's Surf Report: olas grande por favor

Mexico! damn.
Big thick, makeable barrels.
Reeling walls.
Hot.
Cerveza.
Taco Pescado.

Racing the extended June daylight to a North-County point.
Leave work and race home on the bike.
Speed into the car.
92 backed-up gridlock.
Veer back to the 280.
Power down to the 84.
Wind and curve up through Kesey's woods.
Psychedelic memories hang and twist.
7:15.. sun is low.
Connect with the coast at San Gregorio.
Swell is evident.
Momentary cell-phone signal.
The J.O.C. lets me know where to meet him.
Fire down the coast.
New Tool album psyching.
Corduroy looking out from the cliffs of Pomponio.
Bean Hollow chucking up a mean left.
The wind looks to be lessening.
Around 8pm get to the spot and pull the car off the road.
The sun is still barely out.
J.O.C.'s the only other car there.
Sprint-change into the wetter.. then race across the fields toward the ocean.
Look at the lineup and it's mellow, glassy-ish.. only two guys.
Paddle out as fast as possible.
Sun dipping behind cliffs.
An insider lopes in toward me.
Spin and paddle into its clefting innards.
Long, point-break ride.
Mellow, slow-turns.
surf.
Paddle out and slap-fives.
Hell yeah no crowd, waves. mellow. thank you Huey.
Backdoorish takeoffs.
Find a narrel.
J.O.C. smacks a lip or three with style.
Leave at dark.
Last one out, can't find a wave to come in. shark fear.
Pizza.
Late night chillage.
Fall asleep at 3:30.
Up at 5:45 for a repeat.
Surf.

french toast

you are hardcore e!

mexico here i come

i love cramskim.com

Posted by: bajel

at June 21, 2006 10:11 AM

Those waves are thiiiick!

Posted by: ian

at June 21, 2006 10:31 AM

Bean Hollow breaking good? I don't believe it! I have had dreams of finding that place perfect with an easy paddle when everywhere was closed out. Now you have me intrigued. I need to get south of devils slide one of these days....

Posted by: toooshy

at June 21, 2006 11:09 AM

anywhere worth a drive right now?

http://www.aspworldtour.com/ripcurlpro/

Posted by: kloo

Surfed Bean Hollow twice.

Amazingly there is a shallow shelf in the center of the 'bay' near the shore there that you can hit if you tumble at the wrong moment.

I prefer the rights to the lefts though.

Posted by: duncan

at June 21, 2006 11:17 AM

Ohhhhh yeah!

Up at 3:30, pack the car, drive past other spots an hour later getting packed already (at 4:30!?!) along PCH, get to my spot, first car, suit up run down, burn one with my buddy waiting on the beach for the tiniest sprinkle of light, consistent, OH long walls. Baked outta my head, stoked outta my head, chillin', trying to be rippin', kookin' and everything else. More heads paddle out around 6 but we had our fill and are in tune with the ocean's mood by now so it doesn't matter. Stay out til 9 and then work one all the way in. Jello arms, jello head, jello smile.

Oh man what a last couple of days dawn patrol. Not huge, not worth the hype it got, but goooooood.

Can't get the asp vid to work. Anyone else?

Posted by: Hb

at June 21, 2006 11:20 AM

Paddled out last night after work and got skunked. Always out of position no matter where I paddled to. Man, was that frustrating.

Nice going HB!

Bean Hollow - Crowded lineup but, I got one of the longest rides of my life inside the "bay" ;-)

Posted by: Dennis

at June 21, 2006 12:12 PM

Posted by: Bernie Spear

at June 21, 2006 12:35 PM

Pimpin' Bean Hollow?! Posting photos of skimmers at The Roach?! Is NOTHING sacred to you niceness pukes!!!??? ;););)
Looks like I'll be going in for a follow-up epidural. I've said it before: if I knew I was gonna live this long, I'd've taken better care of myself!

Posted by: Jimmie

at June 21, 2006 01:07 PM

Timmy Reyes... holy smokes!

Three loooong barrels to get a 10. Combined score of 18.67.

Anyone else just see that?

Posted by: SFK

at June 21, 2006 01:12 PM

oh man, why can't I see it? What video function do you need? Go Timmy! Damn.

at June 21, 2006 01:22 PM

Kloo posted the link above...

His heat is still going, but almost over.

I bet that wave will be in the video highlights in a few hours.

at June 21, 2006 01:24 PM

I've had the link. I need the video plug-in.

at June 21, 2006 01:31 PM

yeah, sfk- that was a sick, sick tube

Posted by: joe fo

at June 21, 2006 01:48 PM

holy shit travis logie..

at June 21, 2006 01:50 PM

e with the monster stamina, go man go you've still got the grom in ya....

Posted by: Ancient Jetties

at June 21, 2006 01:56 PM

Low tide there were a few fun ones mixed in out there.

at June 21, 2006 03:52 PM

still glassy kloo?

at June 21, 2006 04:05 PM

kind of locally glassy but bumpy like it's windy out there somewhere, if you know what I mean? there was a 5mph-ish south wind.

at June 21, 2006 04:28 PM

Posted by: e

at June 21, 2006 04:48 PM

shit.. umm.. sorry.

at June 21, 2006 04:49 PM

thanks kloo. looks like zietgiest it is than. or however the f you spell it..

at June 21, 2006 05:00 PM

shut up and go surf!

IT IS SO FUN OUT THERE. RIGHT NOW.
OFFSHORE-ISH AND GLASSY.
way way way better than the a.m.

happy goddamn summer YAHOOOOOOO!

Posted by: korewin

at June 21, 2006 05:12 PM

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