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shredulous

It felt like a surf morning.
Warm, no wind, a bit of swell.
But.. grumpiness ruled the scene.
Disheveled, unruly, ugly, cold.
A few rogue A-frame crazies.
Lerm sniffed one out.
I basically got skunked.
A couple drops.
Nice to take a chilly dip before a hot day computer slavin'.

Kelly Slater just scored a triple barrel.
guh.

couple fun ones out there yesterday evening but overall quite nasty - waves coming from every driection, dumping, quick walls then mushing or closing out.

repair question - i hit a reef on a recent trip and did a hack repair job with the kit i brought. got home and sanded it all down and its definitely water-tight and smooth now, but a couple bumps. all near the nose so the area is out of the water when the board is flat but in on drops. i'm looking for opinions - should i redo the whole repair so it's 100% even, or not worry about it only a pro would notice a couple smooth bumps near the nose? i haven't noticed a difference but have a lingering worry that this will affect performance and cost me a critical drop sometime. all opinions wanted/welcome - thanks!

Posted by: vons [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 10:46 AM

Vons - If you worked for 20 hours to make it perfect, you wouldn't notice a difference. You shouldn't need to completely redo it though. Use masking tape to isolate the areaand sand it as flat as you can get it. If there is a depression, rough it up a bit and lay some resin on top - then sand again. Prolly not worth the effort.

I had some fun last night. Surfed solo for nealy two hours. Nobody south of me and two guys about 100 yards to my north. My longboard was a better answer the the frumpy waves than the shortboard I was using to make a fool of myself the night before.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 11:01 AM

Cool BB shot from one of my mentors.

Posted by: Dennis [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 11:23 AM

Disorganized windswell, high tide, light winds . . . Lindy! Expected crowds, but not an issue. Some good rides, some Lindafied close-outs and backers-off. Brown water.

Posted by: kloo [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 11:58 AM

DP my only option today and yesterday, we had the exact same session e. Skunked!

I saw a PT this week who diagnosed a stretched acl on the left knee. She's magic w/figuring body stuff out, but knows nothing about surfing. Suggested changing my leash to my right foot. I start giggling and then she says, " Wait, well, that won't really solve the problem either. Can't you tie the leash around your waist or some other body part?" Then she starts mimicking tying a rope around her waist. hahaha

Posted by: s.s. sharkbait [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 12:17 PM

omgl...gomgl..omgosh...soooo fun out there on the non-north end! E, you are the surf madman...my hat is perrenially tipped to your surf-stoked drive. Drove S yesterday and the swell direction was closing out the reefs, seriously, one big close out left all the way down to platforms with a handful of guys trying to surf it and getting denied/slammed. Vons, I wouldn't worry about the nose thingy unless your surfing kirra or malaea or something where it's all about super late falling drops into the barrel...even then I don't think it would matter but this is certainly a question for blakestah...SURF!!!!STOKE!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by: andrew m [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 12:48 PM

c'mon Mick!

-fanboy

Posted by: bajel [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 01:48 PM

sheesh. perhaps you'd like to give him a backrub between heats?

I am torn between the perfect waves and what looks like great bouldering potential. in other words, that looks alot like paradise to me.

Posted by: fanboy critic [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 02:11 PM

Posted by: e [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 02:58 PM

damn those guys are surfing good. FBC, the bouldering sucks at that spot. but down another dusty road.......it's epic.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 02:58 PM

Posted by: traut [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 03:23 PM

thanks dennis and andrew m i'm just gonna sand the crap out of it and forget it. next time i am just going to use stickers or ding dough and wait until i get home to do the repair job properly.

Posted by: vons [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 03:31 PM

so.....357, you got those GPS coordinates?

would that be voguely vague enuff?
actually, I would not complain at all if someone said WHERE THAT PLACE IS!!!!?????!!!


Posted by: fanboy critic [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 04:14 PM

i think somone did yesterday, in a vaugly vouge way..

Posted by: bajel [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 04:46 PM

it's no secret, and the contest is going to make it worse, but it's still a pretty insane place that won't benefit from any more internet whoring...so keep it quiet

Posted by: joe fo [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 05:09 PM

have you guys seen the video of Taj's barrell?
http://64.78.18.131/live/mexico06/videos.asp
Click on the 3rd clip on the 1st row.

sorry fan boy critic, i'm still analog when it comes to navigation.

Posted by: 3to5setsof7 [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 09:49 PM

Anyone have MSGs email? Shit. These conditions really cannot get much better. Solid sesh, great vibes, great waves. Finished with a sandwich from Fredy's. Bumping the Sprout sound-track while enjoying an ice cold beer. Solid.

Posted by: ian [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 22, 2006 10:21 PM

Hey Ian,

Yeah, the conditions were awesome yesterday. I skipped out of work and headed south for a fun longboard session. We did the same thing: lunch, beer, and cruising on the beach. Super solid.

Posted by: MSG [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 23, 2006 09:42 AM

really quick question, if some can oblige...what's the rule on dogs at linda mar?

Posted by: steamwand [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 23, 2006 10:10 AM

anyone else having trouble with the webcast?

Posted by: joe fo [TypeKey Profile Page] at June 23, 2006 11:40 AM
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