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Christian is the man. Many of you probably know the jovial, smiling Brazilian hellman, as he's one of the most friendly, sociable guys around. He can often be seen charging double-overhead wintertime bombs in the middle of the beach. He's the guy out there when you drive by thinking, "who the hell is out there on this gigantic, disorganized morning?" Christian charges at whatever he's doing, whether it's surfing serious days at Mavs, or negotiating huge international business deals all over the globe. The guy speaks about 10 languages and has gotten deep barrels in places that you've never even heard of. Even though he's been surfing for over 20 years and is a dad and maintains an insane work schedule, the guy has the surf-stoke of a little grom who just caught his first ride down the line. Christian feels a deep, personal love for the art of surfing and it oozes out of him whenever you start talking about the sport of kings. His love for surfing is infectious and inspiring. Next time you see a light-footed Brazzo ripping it up at the beach, then smiling on his way back to the lineup, give him a wave and say hi. The dude rips.
E: You grew up and learned to surf on the famous
Ipanema beach in Rio De Janeiro, Brazil.
Can you tell us a bit about what it's like there and
what the surf scene is like in Rio?
Christian: Ipanema is a magical place and culturally very dynamic.
This is the crib of Bossa Nova music, where seduction and
romance live together surrounded by dramatic rocky mountains,
an intense urban jungle and the beautiful Atlantic (with occasional
perfect
barrels). After surfing you just hang out with your friends at the
beach in
the "quiosques"(little tents that serve snacks, juices and beers)
exchanging the surfing highlights of the day, discussing soccer
and politics or just chilling while doing some people watching. For
sure,
several "the girl from Ipanema" contenders might jog by you.
E: How about the ladies down there? Men the world over
rave about the Brazilian arse... fantasy or reality?
Christian: Reality - what else can I say? Let me see. Sorry, I got no sisters.
E: You've traveled and surfed all over the world.
You've been to Indo 9 times, Sri Lanka,
Peru, Japan, etc. Do you have one or two surf-related
highlights that come to mind from your travels?
Christian: In Sri Lanka, on my way to a J'Bay style right (not Arungan), in the
middle
of Tamil Tiger territory, suddenly my bus stopped. The driver started
to
scream and freak out. I thought we were about to be massacred in a
guerrilla
ambush, but instead we had a giant elephant refusing to leave the road.
If
you have an isolated elephant like that, it can be super dangerous. The
animal will attack you if you give a chance and our micro bus had no
reverse
gear. We all had to be quiet and wait for passage. 5 hours later when
the
sun arrived, we finally proceeded. Hours later I was facing a perfect
right
walling for 300 yards with no one on it. I surfed this place just with
another person (ozzie mate) for 2 days until the swell died.
Also, I will never forget all the places that I surfed alone and had a
bunch
of kids going crazy on the shore and mobbing me after my sessions.
Imagine
the children of a dense populated country such as Bangladesh seeing a
creature in the ocean gliding on waves. In South Korea, I also
experienced
some stuff like that when I surfed this resorty stretch of coast in the
middle of a snowy winter day. It was a national holiday and the thing
was
packed. When I left the water, kids were throwing sand to the air
(mixed
with snow). The waves were very good and I was fine for more than one
hour
on my 3mm wetty with hood and booties. I will never forget this
evening.
Surfing Lake Superior and Seagaia (ocean dome in Myazaki - Japan) was
pretty
interesting too. I never expected to surf any body of water other than
the
ocean. Now I need to pay a visit to my homeland and score some Amazon's
tributaries during Pororoca.
E: Any places that you still want to go?
Christian: Too many! I would love to spend 2 years driving a Land Rover around
Africa.
In order to get ready for that, I wouldn't mind practicing my off road
skills going all the way home by car. Who knows? One day I will do that
for
sure, but need to take care of other responsibilities for now. I also
would
love to explore places on the northern hemisphere located on high
latitudes
(New Scotia, Norway, Kurile Islands and others) and on the other end of
the
spectrum, countries on the bottom of the Arabic Peninsula (Yemen and
Oman).
I wonder too a lot about waves that break on smaller seas that I
haven't
surfed yet, such as the Black and Caspian Sea. Gezz, now I started to
go off
scale with my dreams here. Gimme a teleport or let me go to the next
question.
E: You're trained in Jiu-Jitsu (Brazilian martial
art). Has that knowledge and training
influenced your surfing and/or your mental approach
to surfing?
Christian: Mentally, it helps a bit when you are exposed to a competitive arena.
For
example, when you end up surfing a crowded place (I try not to) you can
stay
pretty relaxed. When you are relaxed, you smile, emit good energy and
consequently avoid bad vibes. If the negative vibes still persist and
continue coming to me from the same individual, I try to stay away from
it
and find my peaceful space in the line up. As for fitness, back in the
day
when I used to practice, it helped me a bit as a cross training
activity,
but I don't know how much though. I think surfing OB and dealing with
its
different faces helped me more with my surfing stamina. Few years ago,
I
read that Rickson Gracie went to Tavarua and bailed on a 10'ft perfect
day
because it was too much for him. He was super humble about it and just
said
he was scared.
E: You've had some success coaching surfing.
Jacqueline Silva attributes much or her success at the Cold Water
Classic and Maui invitational 2 years ago to your
tutelage. Do you have any universally-helpful coaching tips for
the niceness crew?
Christian: Focus on one thing at a time. Understand your limits and envision how
you
could push it to the next level. I see a lot of people (not only kids)
that
can barely go down the line trying to do aerials. Evolution can mean a
simple improvement on your paddling. I am still trying to work on that
after
27 years in the water. Regardless of the kind of boards you ride, try
to
envision what kind of line you want to draw on the wave and think how
you
can do that building and maintaining speed. Pretend that you are a car
racer
learning how to make the best use of a race track. Same idea! Before
getting
in the water, observe the waves and think about where you want to go
down
the line on each wall or cylinder.
On contest stuff, it's a whole different story. It is all about scoring
points and simple strategies. So many great surfers can't advance on
easy
heats.
E: Describe the best maneuver(s) you've ever pulled.
don't be shy.
Christian: Some very long Indo barrels.
E: Do you have a favorite wave or an all-time session?
Christian: When I first moved to Japan, I had no idea that the area that I resided
had
waves. It was not located on the Pacific side. So, after a little
research,
I heard that there was a surfing community in a city called Karatsu, 1
hour
(by car) from my new home. By looking the map I thought it was a bit
weird
but I kept my hopes alive. I was actually planning on getting a car and
drive across Kyushu to surf in Myazaki, where I knew there were
incredible
waves. Anyway, 2 weeks after my arrival, this huge typhoon hit my mini
town
and almost destroyed my little home. Next morning it was sunny and
beautiful
and I decided to explore. I got in the train and after 4 connections
and 2.5
half hours I arrived in Karatsu. Nobody new shit about surfing but one
old
man. He told me to get in a bus across the station and go to this beach
which I can't remember the name (ya right!). With a map on my hands I
started to track all the little bays in route to my destination. I saw
perfect head high waves on this gorgeous sandy beach and started to
cry. I
knew that spot was super protected by looking to its position on the
map and
the fact that it already had that size....oh my Buddha!
Few minutes later I was at the final stop. As soon as I left the bus, I
heard thunders. My heart started to TUM TUM TUM TUM TUM and I rushed to
the
top of this little hill. I could not believe what I had in front of my
eyes.
HUGE CONDITIONS! I just couldn't understand how a little body of water
such
as the Sea of Japan could produce waves that big. It was messy though.
Not
good, but definitely surfable if you had a bigger board (I did not). I
decided to give it a go when this super friendly Japanese surfer
approached
me and asked where I was from. When I said Brazil he was like
....gaijin
san...burajiru jin...sugoi. "I will taku you to secretu supotu". He
meant...foreigner! brazilian! Cool. I will take you to a secret spot.
We
then went by this little road of course through rice pads terraces
until we
hit this cliff. Down the cliff I had a similar view of the Uluwatu
monkey
temple. Perfect lefts were thundering and going down and around the
corner.
I started to cry again (I was living in Washington DC before moving to
Japan)and scream. We all screamed! Wooohoooo!!! SAIKO!!! Once we got
down
the bottom through a "big sir style" path, I had in front of me one of
the
best waves I had ever encountered in my whole life. We had 4 other
guys
with us and they started shitting on their pants right away. Most of
the
Japanese dislike conditions bigger than head high. The sets were DOH
but
beyond perfection. There were 3 full on barrels to be had in 3
different
sections of the wave. It was a mellower and shorter version of Ulus,
but
just as perfect. I ended up surfing for 2 hours only with the guy that
I met
first, since the others bailed. Later, new faces showed up but only my
new
friend was going for the sets. I surfed for 7 hours until I had no more
arms. I had the best session of my life right there. Next morning it
was
perfect again but only head high. My new friend turned out to be a
local
legend who owned a little reggae café bar in the near by town. Together
we
surfed many magic days like that, but nothing like this first one. We
also
pioneered few tiny islands spots that broke perfect with the right
typhoon
direction.
E: What do you think of the surf scene here in the bay
area compared to other surf communities?
Christian: Pretty mellow! We probably have the most educated surf community in the
whole world. We have some brats here and there but so does every other
urban
area with waves. Most of them are inoffensive and have an attitude due
to
their own insecurities or peer influence. It is amazing though how
crowded
OB has gotten in the last few years, principally on small sunny days.
But
what can we do? The beach is for everyone and you just have to deal
with it
the best way you can. I just don't like when I have people on my way
all the
time. I feel like practicing surfing slalom some times. No biggie
though. On
days like that I just try to lower my expectation and enjoy. Like I
said,
the beach is for everyone and there are plenty of days throughout the
year
with no one out or.
E: Your girlfriend, Anastasia, is herself an
accomplished surfer. Does the love that each of you
feel for surfing result in mutual inspiration and a
heightened feeling of togetherness? How has
surfing affected your relationship?
Christian: I get inspired by seeing her stoke and achievements as an ocean lover
that
learned how to surf at the age of 30. Today she charges conditions that
most
of the people rather be in the lot. She goes through hell at OB to make
it
out sometimes but she always makes it. Her late drops blow my mind.
Surfing
together can be tricky though. It drives me nuts when people drop in on
her
just because she is a girl taking off deep. She always makes it. Due to
problems like that we prefer to surf different spots at the beach, if
it's
crowded. In general we have different taste but we always want to surf
together. So, someone has to compromise, which is never easy. We are
working
on it though and trying not to argue over this anymore. After all, you
just
have to do the work, like on any other challenge of a relationship, to
keep
it healthy and alive. We try to be good listeners and understand each
other
needs.
E: In the best-case-scenerio, where do you see your
surfing in 5 years?
Christian: More comfortable on bigger waves and more flexible on tiny conditions
(getta
start yoga). I love surfing super small conditions and would like to
get
lighter to continue having fun on them. Towing in might be a
possibility. We
will see.
E: Favorite surfer?
Christian: Occy. We even share the same bday, along with Jay Moriarty (one of my
favorites too for his big wave skills, smile and humble attitude).
Locally,
I have to go for my compatriot, bro and roommate Alex Martins. The guy
can
surf anything from half inch to giant Mavs. His charging capabilities
are as
big as his humility.
E: You have a beautiful, rambunctious 5 year-old son
named Nicolai (Nico). Any fantasies of grooming him to be
the next Neco Padaratz?
Christian: Nah! But I do dream about going on surfing trips with him or just
sharing
the stoke with the little guy on the backyard of some eventual property
that
I would like to own somewhere here or in Brazil. But who knows? If he
turns
out to be a ballet dancer, I will be in the first row of any
presentation
that he takes part proudly applauding his acrobatic moves. As long as
he is
happy, I am super duper stoked. Love the kid.
E: Any final words for the niceness crew?
Christian: Enjoy every minute of your life and have a niceness day.
Back to E's surf report
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