beautiful day.. but.. waves bigger and haggard
Drove around then came back home and slept for another 1.5 hours. OB looked a little too daunting for my sickened, phlegm-gurgling, cloudy-headed reality. Anybody else sick out there? Kaiser, Bagel and I are all feelin' the pangs.. and no.. we haven't been making out with each other! at least not that much. umm.. but.. OB is doable if you're jonesing hard or just like it a little crazier. It looked wild and disorganized on the inside, with quite a few rows of white-water.. but then it didn't look to be really working on the outside. I did, however, notice quite a few tantalizing sections and corners scattered throughout. With some patience, perseverence and luck you could be grooving down the line on some mini-mackers no doubt. I guess there is a good chance that conditions might improve as the day progresses? The winds are still offshore out of the NNE.. the swell is slowly lessening and will probably be mellow(er) again for tomorrow's dawnie.
i saw a bunch of people paddling out so maybe it was better than i thought? any first-hand reports?
I accidentally crushed a snail in front of my house yesterday.. hope there are no fatherless baby snails now. d'oh!
A big "FUCK YOU" to the little bird that decided to sing and chirp and carry on from 2am to 4am last night RIGHT outside my window. What the hell little birdie!?.. you're usually my morning alarm. But maybe something traumatic is going on in the little bird's life right now? Defending his/her territory, attempting to seduce potential lovers? teaching his/her young ones? Annoying the shit out of humanoid neighbors? I was preying for a BB gun last night... even though i know that's not very "niceness"..
Also a semi-strange thing happened to Kaiser and i while surfing in front of some dunes at OB on Saturday morning. We were happily surfing and generally minding our own business when this dark-skinned ripper paddles out. This guy lives on the same street as me so i often see him out. I even talked with him briefly a few hours before while checking the surf from the dunes. He is an extremely talented surfer (360's, airs, barrels, etc) but always wears a scowl. Once i even saw him punch a guy at the Fort.. but i always kind-of shrugged that incident off because the guy he punched sorely deserved the reprimand (blatently dropping in on everybody on purpose.. smiling about it, etc.)... anyway Kaiser and i are out there.. the crowd is pretty spread out.. plenty of waves.. then we hear this "GO AWAY!"... "GET OUT OF HERE" being screamed from the general direction of the dark-skinned ripper. Turns out this guy was yelling to nobody in particular, "GO AWAY!" "GET THE FUCK OUT OF HERE!" I mean just yelling really loud. It was bizarre. Nobody was really even close to him but he was just snarling and yelling. Crazy! Kaiser started to paddle toward him just to prove a point but then thought the better of it and we simply paddled right past the dude while he grumbled and frothed. talk about spreading the love.
One thought-provoking aspect of the above scenerio is that many of us have privately felt, "go away" when we see a few other surfers in our vicinity at the beach. I mean who doesn't feel a little churn in their stomachs when a batch of surfers paddles out near them. What's the difference between thinking these thoughts and acting on them? morality? decency? civil society? the golden rule? This guy was not afraid to spread the hate. Will it come back to him? Is the quality of his life lessoned because of his mean-spirited actions toward others?
fairly gnarly Brazzo wave
Ladies continuing to push the limits (for friendly, SS, Welle, and everyone)
first post! you gotta love the guys who try to vibe people in the lineup by talking to themselves...
Posted by: jdz at March 9, 2004 10:45 AMsomeone stole my wifes 1989 Toyota Landcruiser, bright blue, if any one sees it please call me 415.378.0249 thanks - angrier matt
Posted by: yellow board matt at March 9, 2004 10:54 AMthat sucks matt!! who the fuck does that shit?
Posted by: e at March 9, 2004 10:55 AMAh e, when in doubt......
Sloat was really working from about 7-8:30. Easy paddle, real smooth surface, a little bigger than might have appeared from the beach. It was very clean on the outside. I'd say the bigger sets were in the 8' range with one bomb that was well over 10'. Sparse crowd at first. Lots of long makeable walls with jacking peaks. Caught a bunch of set waves. One in particular had a section I didn't think I would make but it just pitched out over me as I turned mid-face and streamlined to the shoulder. The hoot from the guy paddling out left me smilin'. The main pulse seemed to be between 7:30 and 8 with sets being smaller and less frequent later. The buoys still look good so I'd say GO GET IT!
Guy leaving his house sees a snail on his doorstep. picks it up and throws it. Few months later there a knock on the door. Opens the door and it's a snail. Snail says,"What was up with that!"
I empathize with the bird thing. My neighbor has a feeder and the buggers have set up house in my gutters for several seasons. Lazy next door cat should get to work.
That yelling things is a familiar psycho tactic. At second parking lot Steve Johnson will curse at the top of his lungs for no apparent reason. Been doing it for years.
Posted by: kdalle at March 9, 2004 10:56 AMi was howling when i read the bird paragraph! i think you were looking for suggestions on all time favorite postings? well that one is mine.
Posted by: tom at March 9, 2004 11:06 AMya, fuck that bird!
"kinda" scored this morning in the cove. surfed solo i was a little late on it. very meditative and beutiful and very inconsistant, pushing high tide and shutting down fast, but caught about 4 long zippy shoulder high lefts. weee
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 11:26 AMhmmm...kdalle...."easy paddle out"? sheez...i wish i was you! this morning, either my paddle skills were non-existent or i got really unlucky (or...more likely a bit of both!).
anyway...i paddled out with my buddy, Alex, and Loon whom we met in the parking lot (great to meet ya, btw!)...and they both quickly left me behind. i then proceeded to get caught in a giant's bath tub (not abusive...just tumultuous) who mercilessly had his finger on my back moving me around at will inside...FOREVER. finally, once he'd had his fun he let me outside (around 8)...and then, of course, i proceeded to have a major case of wave-repellent!
beautiful just to be out there though and i was legitimately stoked to see the drops and rides some peeps were scoring. just as i was about to give up hope i finally scored a fun left that made it all worthwhile (and no broken board today!).
unfortunately...and here comes the confession...i later found out that i dropped-in on resident uber-ripper, Christian as he came around the peak i snagged. he was supper chilly-chill about it and very gracious. once again, amigo, i'm very sorry and thanks for being so cool. i know that it's not an excuse, but i never even knew you were there.
Posted by: ck at March 9, 2004 11:29 AMbtw...Matt...so sorry to hear about the theft of your wife's Cruiser. some people suck. i hope that it turns up okay.
Posted by: ck at March 9, 2004 11:37 AMVery strange session in the middle for me. Almost didn't make it. Walked the dog at dawn and it was foggy so hard to judge the waves, but I could tell that outside was breaking. Back home I debated Longboard or short (of course my "short" board is 7'6"). Ended up taking out my 8'0" all-around board as a compromise.
Fog had cleared as I headed down to the water and I saw a few meaty sets roll through. "Shit, maybe I could use a pointier nose? Walk back and switch, nah, I can make it out, and the 8'0" can handle double-o waves."
Famous last words. My paddle out took over 30 minutes. There was one guy out when I started so I knew it was possible, but after the shorebreak I was stuck in mud. 10 minutes in, I was almost out then a set came and I got worked. First wave drove me deep, I tried to relax, wait for the turbulence to die, then swam to the surface. Shit, there is another one, catch a few quick breaths and down I go again. Swim up and NO, not another one. By then, I was hyperventilating so I just grabbed my board and held on. I didn't turn toward shore, but I don't think I duckdived either. I just wanted out of the pit.
After a brief recovery, I started up the trudge again. By now, I could see a few other folks out taunting me. It seemed like there was a channel north and south of me by about 50 yards. 20 minutes in and I am again almost out, a set comes and whoosh, I am 100 yards back inside.
At this point I contemplate heading in, and driving to Sloat in my wetsuit. I decide that I will be happy with just getting outside, whether I catch anything or not. I have invested so much time that just getting outside will be my reward.
I see a couple other dudes trudging and I paddle with them thinking maybe they saw a channel from the beach. We all take a few on the head and I make it around and south of them. This sees me get around the set that drives them back 100 yards.
Finally after 30-40 minutes I make it outside. I proceed to paddle way outside just to be sure that I don't get caught by a set. I am so beat that I think, "Shit, I should have brought my gun. It's huge out here. Good thinking about getting outside being your goal, getting in is going to be even tougher."
After catching my wind, getting my mojo back, and dodging a few, a set of big lefts comes my way. I paddle over the first and try for the second. I start to see that I will not make it in at the same time I see another surfer in the channel pointing outside. So I stop and regroup. Thankfully, I am now in position to get the third wave. I paddle hard and finally I am dropping down a Double overhead left that jacks up for a fast drop but quickly subsides so I make it over and don't get stuck inside for the fourth and fifth waves of the set. I then see that it was Doof that was pointing out the "one more behind it."
We start trading waves and I realize it is not hairy at all out there. Weird, yes. Seemed like
there was a short period swell with a long period one on top. Biggest waves were double overhead, and those were the ones you wanted. The smaller ones were a little over head and these would wall up and most often close out.
So, 30- 40 minutes of work for about 5 rides. Two really fun ones. But a lot of work to find that needle in the haystack.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 9, 2004 11:40 AMchristian...just read your post. you are a prince of a man. nothing like seeing someone's ride from behind, eh?! ; ) thanks, again, for being so gracious.
Posted by: ck at March 9, 2004 11:41 AMMaybe the fellow who was yelling in the lineup was being pestered by a really bothersome fly? Or perhaps an incesantly chirping bird? Snail?
Thank niceness for the chill paddle out and beaut sunset last night. So nice and I needed it. Cold water therapy :)
Posted by: ben at March 9, 2004 11:49 AMThe Duke of Shazzard-
Rolled up to look at VF's, around 6:30am or so, stairway #19. Lo and behold, there is a guy, exactly halfway between the seawall and the water, with his blue/black wetsuit around his knees, squatting down and dropping a dugan right there in the sand!
My buddy and I howled derisively at him, and he looked around but did not seem abashed. He completed his outrageous shizzle and then - here's the most incredible part - reached over and, grabbing off of his board *a couple of wads of toilet paper he had brought down to the sand with him*, wiped his butt, of course leaving the entire steaming heap. He then pulled up his wetsuit and paddled out.
I thought I had seen some unique behavior at the beach, but this took the cake. The guy was off the charts in all categories - environmental, hygenic/public health, respect for da beach, general humanity, you name it, the guy was shitting squarely on the magna carta of guidelines for human conduct, written and unwritten. It was almost like some kind of performance art, an act of protest against...what - perhaps the misfortune of being born a human instead of a free-shitting beast of the wild?
Or am I overreacting?
Posted by: redworm at March 9, 2004 11:57 AMI was drooling on my way to work this mornin...
Posted by: mexisurf at March 9, 2004 12:07 PMChristian, Is that floral wave near the metropolis of San Paolo?? And I forgot you Pics, they are at home if you want to stop by....
nice to meet you too, ck (and friend alex). paddling was definitely wierd at times today - soupy with lots of currents, seemed particularly strange considering that it was also pretty glassy.
i got out pretty quick but only got a few waves during my 50 mins out. size is there but not many waves are breaking top-to-bottom, so the masochism rating is relatively low. my last wave was a long left that started with a spray-blinded drop - paddle squint paddle squint drop blink dig into turn - thank you jebus!
Posted by: loon at March 9, 2004 12:08 PMAh yes redworm, nothing like a good morning crap, midbeach! Favorite posts? lotsa classics lately.
Posted by: ben at March 9, 2004 12:15 PMi've had some sessions where my shit just snuck up on me and i had no choice but to paddle in and beach-shit. i also think beach-shitting is justifiable if there's no bathrooms around (I can't tell you how many times i've shat in the "crack" at jalama). but a pre-meditated beach shit complete with toilet paper is just plain wrong, especially when there's a perfectly nasty 76 station bathroom a couple hundred yards away for you to soil.
Posted by: bbr at March 9, 2004 12:26 PMi shat in the water in indo.. a few times.. the available outhouse at this location was so nasty.. literally a hole in the ground.. with a resident wasp nest IN the fucking outhouse. Before surfing i'd casually stroll down the beach and around a little corner.. then wade out into knee high water.. then.. let fly..
but.. shitting on the beach at VFers is just wrong.. especially where people might/will walk. that sucks!!
Posted by: e at March 9, 2004 12:48 PMattn redworm.....
shitting on the beach? i cannot even fathom someone who surfs
having a squat before a session right on the sand? the saddest thing is that now we ALL have shit on the beach. whoever else
saw this now thinks of surfersthose guys in the black suits with white boards as beinig as much of a problem as the folks
who come and dump other detritus on the beach.
get a license plate/ car make and post that here....i have
Posted by: korewin at March 9, 2004 12:49 PMsomething i'd like to leave on his windshield.
e,
try "cold snap" for the bug. you'll enjoy the groovy words of energy on the box. find it at health food stores. it's helping me shake that pheghlm thing going around. peace.
Posted by: 3to5setsof7 at March 9, 2004 01:03 PME - I had the same experience a few weeks ago at PP in SC. Guy was screaming at anybody and nobody. Really weird.
Did anyone hear about a surfer or swimmer on Sunday being swept out or drowning? I heard a word about it but no detail. Someone said it was a recovery mission... meaning a body recovery. Coast gaurd was flying back and forth for a long time. Fire Engines all over the place. I was sharing a peak with Sean the lifegaurd. He thought something was up.
Posted by: Dennis at March 9, 2004 01:07 PMre: Sunday: when I got in around 11 they had closed Gt Highway from Linc to Sloat, then saw cranes (?), ambulances, fire trucks and a Coast Guard rescue copter going back and forth up & down the beach. Heard today it might have been a lady surfer, rescued. Any related info?
re: Duke Kahaftapupu: I agree, no shame in the open-field crappe when in a remote area or even in an emergency mid-surf, maybe, but to shun the seawall and premeditate (or predefecate) the act as shown by bringing TP - mind-bending. Kore, I had a similar thought for leaving a token, but couldn't figure out which car was his and didn't have enough to go around.
Posted by: redworm at March 9, 2004 01:44 PMentertaining read from alt.surf
Dig it...Sunday I stack and rack the dune buggy with the long stick and head
over to meet the fellas - who have since relocated from the yupped out North
Cow to the tits and ass capital of the south, Pacific Beach. I run wild in
the streets, gassing the buggy machine hard through the turns, slip sliding
away to my own manic groove. It's better than any summer day, the girlies
are out in force on the boardwalk under the blazing sun, a fresh crop of
teen dreams struttin' and stylin' in various states of undress allowing me
to create and store a year's worth of jacking reels in my creepy 40 sumthin'
head. The surf, on the other hand, so to speak, was as limp as a faggot's
dick at a stripper's convention. Knee to waist, super glassy, I got my sweat
on baking in the 4/3 pressure cooker style under the hell hot sun as I
spent most of the time paddling for whispering shadows and only occasionally
catching an anemic slide that would quickly fade away over inside sand bar.
When I finally did get a good one, a chest high growler that popped up outta
nowhere, I nearly got douched on a late take-off, finally getting up with
about as much coordination as one of Jerry's kid, I gagged my next turn and
did the low down splash down on what was probably the wave-o-da-day. It was
some sort of depressing scene, I saw some other cats sliding pretty good and
I felt like a kook for riding so poorly.
Ah, but we always live to surf another day and surf to live another day and
that day of days was yesterday afternoon down at XXX. When I put
this one down in the mental log book, I have to say it ranks as one of the
best days EVER at the XXX. All the elements lined up together to
produce a perfectly lined up razor edged left that busted off the near minus
tide reef in chest to shoulder high fashion with a tropical type of vibe.
Once again, the sun blazed like a ball of hellfire, sending every albino
from here to Tucson scrambling for cover and with the nice warm spots in the
sea, I am once again over-suited and overheating as I paddle the longstick
out into the line
up. Three guys out - scratch that - one guy gets a shoulder high slapper all
the way in and then bags it and heads up the cliff. Down to two guys with
3-4 wave sets coming in every 5 minutes or so! Now this spot can be kind of
tricky as the sets swing in from the south and the wave sort of splits. It
is all too tempting to sit farther back and try to shoot the bowl, but most
of the time you can't make the section or are forced to slide the right,
which is low quality bumpfest churner under most conditions. I know this
well and know that the ultimate line up spot is just a click south of the
xxx xxxx, so that is where I set up. Not more than a few minutes later, a
solid shoulder high set rolls in off the kelp beds and the two other heads
are too far back. I am up and I really want to hang a star on this first
ride, given the dismal performance of my last session. What makes this the
ultimate big slab wave is the roll on the take off which gives me plenty of
time to get my glide on before it hits the shallow ledge. The takeoff is
smooth and I slide her right into the pocket as a perfect wall forms down
the line in front of me. One good bottom turn, a quick soul-bleeding carve
off the top edge and I rocket out onto the shoulder and stick the tail hard
as I roll it into a massive roundhouse cutback, throwing a significant chunk
of water. All the way back and bounce off the corner - perfectly positioned
for a repeat performance as the wave walls up once again, this time with a
longer race track section perfect for throwing down my patented matador move
as I carve off the tops, stalls, and cutbacks all the way into the inside.
This continues on for quite awhile, and every time I paddle back out, I pick
up another one from the wave machine in a matter of minutes. Soon, it is
down to one other guy and we wave trade in a gentlemanly way, each getting
full rides all the way into the shallows near the base of the xxxx.
Then the bell rings and school is out and the gremmies poor down the hill
like a stirred up nest of army ants that morph into piranhas as soon as they
hit the water. It is soon thick with teenaged piranha boys doing the feeding
frenzy on any kind of wave form that dares to invade the surf zone. I am
outnumbered, surrounded and getting shut down, so I throw up the white flag
and paddle in. Well, not actually, I paddle over to Xxxxx and grab a
shoulder high bowl back in near the arch, and finally climb back up the
slime covered rock to do the barnacle dance up the cliff base. Later that
night, I get
an email from my soul brother up in central cal reporting epic conditions of
cavernous bowls
groomed to perfection under 80 degree offshores.
the end
TikiMan
Posted by: e at March 9, 2004 01:46 PMI knew there was a reason I don't like to surf VFWs.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 9, 2004 01:49 PMAnybody want to see what it looks like when you go over the falls on Sunday and somehow bash your lip into your board? 11 stitches. D'oh!
Posted by: wrybread at March 9, 2004 01:50 PMthe tiki ain't in the 'entertaining post' category for me, don't think I'd like him if I met him.
Posted by: ben at March 9, 2004 01:54 PM11??? aiee! stoked your ok, sounds nasty
Posted by: ben at March 9, 2004 01:55 PMNice Brazzo wave video - I also like the accompanying track and have the original album - kudos to the first person to name the song and band.
Posted by: dmc at March 9, 2004 01:55 PMsometimes when nature calls you gotta pick up that phone!
but it is best to hide at least, and premeditated tp is bad
chears and jears
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 01:55 PMdmc, SABBATH dude! is it sweet leaf? im not good with names
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 01:58 PMi like chocolate chip kudos
one more thing
DAAAAMN wrybread! speedy recovery to you
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 02:02 PMWrybread, I bet you are glad that happened in San Francisco and not Punta San Jose.
I agree with Ben on the Tikiman post. His similes are a bit strained.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 9, 2004 02:03 PMreading about the guy shatting at vfw's reminded me of when I was down in baja at the wall...you would walk back into the scrub with your shovel and tp and cop a squat...meanwhile all around you could see bits pieces of tp that didn't quite get buried deep enough blowing in the wind. It was in a word...gnarly. But that was Mexico...in the middle of nowhere...no services. WTF was this guy doing in the middle of VFW's??? My grandpappy used to say: YOU DON'T SHIT WHERE YOU EAT!
...wrybread did you have the same experience down there?
Posted by: jdz at March 9, 2004 02:12 PMWent surfing at OB today and thought it looked like fun.
Caught some great fast fun rides. I liked it better than yesterday, I went at the wrong time yesterday - HIGH TIDE.
But today I foolishly tried to punch through a fat set wave and got a life threatening scare. I got sucked up and over and down to the bubbling bottom I went. Problem was I was paddleing hard and huffing and puffing to get through the wave I forgot to take a deep breath. I got flushed down in what felt like a toilet bowl. I should have mellowed out but just kept struggling to make it back up which happened much much later than typical. Hate it when that happens, 3rd time in two years were I felt like I could be snuffed out. I stayed in the water for a 1/2 hour after that surfing....but it was scarry.
enough said...
Posted by: phil young at March 9, 2004 02:13 PMsounds scary phil. nice work on staying out.
and re: the vfw dumping ground - simply shameful, especially considering that the beach chalet bathrooms are usually open by 6:45am, and clean.
Posted by: loon at March 9, 2004 02:23 PMjdz-
About The Wall, no, it was pretty clean. Was that awhile ago that you were there? There's now rocks with "use a shovel!" painted on them everywhere, I thought it was annoying since they were so everywhere, but now I see why. The campaign seems to have worked, I didn't see a single piece of tp....
Posted by: wrybread at March 9, 2004 02:37 PMfairies wear boots.
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 02:48 PMredworm - nice on the "Duke Kahaftapupu"
Posted by: e at March 9, 2004 02:57 PMkudos to bagel - "fairies wear boots" by Black Sabbath it is.
Posted by: dmc at March 9, 2004 03:29 PMHey wrybread - I have a carbon copy scar like your upper lip - 10 stitches and 3 chipped teeth - a few years ago while paddling out at OB, for no apparent reason, a kook on a longboard jumped off the back of his board and sling shotted the board into my lip - bad day but hardly noticeable now.
Posted by: dmc at March 9, 2004 03:34 PMYeah wrybread, looks like the stitches were done by a pro. By that I mean a plastic surgeon. I took 14 in my eyelid after my rounded (thank god) 7'6" impacted my face. Hardly noticable now. But I still have a scar on my lip from a dog bite at age 4. Our pediatrician did that work.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 9, 2004 03:48 PMthe last five days: yes! yes! yes!!!!!
shitting at VFWs: no, no, no. that's gross and lame.
leaving the TP: lamer still!
surfboard to the face: eeouch.
friday DP through monday sunset felt like a little mini surf vacation to me...and it sounds like everyone and their sister's uncle's brother scored! niceness for all! i totally dug reading yesterday's posts...mostly because i'd just come back from my first afterwork surf of 2004. superfun...with sunset...yeah!
but ck, that's a bummer about your broken board! bust!! is this some sort of tradition with you and new boards? a ritual of sorts?? man...i was sorry to read that. glad to read about your session this AM though.
see some of you out there tomorrow. and thanks for the pics, e. rock on...
Posted by: friendly at March 9, 2004 03:57 PMoh contrair monfrair..kudos to dmc for inspiring this sabbath marathon i am in the middle of at the moment..
Have you ever thought about your soul? Can it be saved?
Or perhaps you think that when you are dead you just stay in your grave.
Is God just a thought within your head or is he a part of you?
Is Christ just a name that you read in a book when you were in school?
You're searching for your mind don't know where to start,
Can't find the key to fit the lock on your heart
You think you know but you are never quite sure,
Your soul is ill but you will not find a cure. Yeah
OZZY!
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 04:05 PMlots of mayhem out there lately, borken boards and faces
get well soon wrybread
Posted by: phil young at March 9, 2004 04:16 PMDMC- funny you mention kook longboarders slinging their boards... like 3 weeks ago paddling out at Freighters in Baja, this guy is coming down the line, PLENTY of room, I'm watching him, enjoying the stoke, he's a bit shaky but is holding it together, and suddenly the guy is losing it and he slings his board right at me. I went turtle and his board rammed into my board. We surfaced, he was saying sorry like crazy, I said I understand accidents happen but he really has to be careful of that. Then I see our boards are sticking together, I thought the leashes were tangled but no and holy shit: his longboard skeg was all the way through my board. Cripes! And it wasn't even my board. Fun to tell a friend that his board just got impaled.
Friend #1 - actually the stitches were done by a regular ER guy. He explained to me the issue, that's it's hard to line up the "vermillion line", which is the pink part of the lip, and if you get it wrong you have an asymetrical lip for the rest of your life. He said I could request a plastic surgeon, but that he's had lots of experience doing it and feels totally comfortable. Everyone I've shown has said he did a great job, so phew, and big plug for Seton Medical Center in Daly City.
Posted by: wrybread at March 9, 2004 04:25 PMHow times have changed. That is the first ever good thing I have heard about Seton Med in Daly City.
I dorked out in the OC at Santa Ana River Jetties. Drove to the ER in my wetsuit, the doctor took one look and called for the Plastic Surgeon. I guess because it involved the eye. 14 stitches in the lid, and another 10 in my cheek and upper lip. Follow up was a trip as I went to the PS' office near Fashion Island. Every other patient in the waiting room was bleeding money, and over 50.
Posted by: Friend #1 at March 9, 2004 04:33 PME
as for the ripper who talks angrilly aloud to himself,
sounds like he has terrets syndrome. sucks for him
Posted by: phil young at March 9, 2004 04:37 PMgnarly stories of slices and dices.. geez.. be careful out there for peets sake!
kdalle and friend #1 - good on ya for getting waves.
cool blakestah blurb about fishes (taken from surfermag bb) - blakestah.. let me know if it's problematic that i repost.
There are lots of things called fish. I call them a short (6 feet or shorter) swallowtail with a WIDE tail, flat or nearly flat bottom, little rocker. this board doesn't work if it is much longer, you cannot switch rails easily enough.
These boards take advantage of the flat bottom and wide tail. This planes super early, so you can catch waves VERY easily. For turning, though, they are only slightly better than a single. You trim off one of the two rails at a time. If you want to turn the other way, you spin it over to the other rail.
Fish don't have drive unless the fins are toed in. Even then, drive depends on how far forward the angled fin is, so fish have less drive than thrusters.
Also, the other big advantage of the thruster is hold through hard turns. The rear fin really keeps you from spinning out. And, it lets you put rail fins much further forward (so you CAN generate drive). The fish has to be babied through a bottom turn.
OTOH, fish can take a high line on a wave face more easily than any other design. So, instead of a wicked bottom turn, you trim high across the face. Instead of generating speed by pumping, you can take a higher line. The higher the line, the more speed you get from the wave. Fish can be very fast under the right wave conditions.
Fish occupy their own little niche in surfing. I ride em occasionally, and often have a blast up to just overhead conditions. Spin that turn,aim for a high line, and GO!
Posted by: e at March 9, 2004 04:50 PMLook what I found on Craiglist today. Guess someone was late for work.
-------------------------------------------------
Reply to: anon-26066587@craigslist.org
Date: 2004-03-09, 12:34PM PST
Kook, you forgot your surfboard...
Posted by: steve at March 9, 2004 04:58 PMYou drove off without it. eastside of VFW lot just north of chalet. describe it, buy me a six pack, pick it up, go rip.
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Posted by: e at March 9, 2004 05:09 PMMy work is done here...
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Linda Mar DID NOT look like this at lunch! In fact, I was disappointed. But, this weather brings "niceness" to the beach in many forms!
Posted by: Kaiser at March 9, 2004 05:15 PMthank you kaiser
that craigs list post is rad
Posted by: bagel at March 9, 2004 05:37 PMsweet craigslist, very funny.
not to be too kookish, but someone just turned me on to a stanton moore cd. i like it. anyone else?
actually e, i think a niceness music recs page might be cool. everyone seems completely into their music, and hardly any of it is main stream. more work for you of course... but surfingthemag has it and you're cooler.
Posted by: robme at March 9, 2004 06:49 PMKaiser... nice work... again! Somewhere in my Mom's house are all my old Sabbath albums (yes, round vinyl things with music on both sides). Fairies Wear Boots farkin' rips.
Posted by: dano at March 9, 2004 07:13 PMsome guy was shot and killed in the vfw lot this afternoon around 2 pm. yellow tape, tons of cops and the M.E. as well as many onlookers in the warm weather. i saw the guy under the white sheet and once i got the low down figured......i'd head to sloat and hope to surf it out of my head.
humble brazo alex was out on session 4 of his recovery in the glassy but lumpy waves that mainly closed out. his ribs he said were still sore and he said he was tentative but then someone told me he saw (and heard) his fins hit and come out the back of a mid beach wave yesterday.
after dark there was about every golden gate recreation area car, park ranger car and the entire fire brigade along with sf pd searching and dragging their net up near lincoln with lights flashing. dunno what was up but it looked to me like they were trying to find a person and not on a drill.
a crazy day in the sun....
Posted by: tom at March 9, 2004 10:31 PMhttp://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/gate/archive/2004/03/09/shooting09.DTL
Posted by: tom at March 9, 2004 10:34 PMWhat about all the "psychos" who like to yell "faggot" or "maggots" when surfing in crowds. Pretty original if you've never been to Santa Cruz, the ironic part is they only seem to go out if ten of their buddies are already in the water, I guess they really can't stand to see anyone else get waves, especially lefts. Anyone touch the whale? It's really sick and gassy/fatty feeling, I got super nervous about stinky oil onmy bootie afterwards but there were at least a hundred other dudes in the water to limit my chances (just kidding). I couldn't believe how many pedestrians were letting their dogs check it out, maybe they forgot it's been dead six months.
Posted by: at March 9, 2004 10:35 PMUm:
You refer to Jeseye; he has dark skin and I do not want to be mistaken for his actions. Jeseye is, I think, Hungarian in origin. He is an L.A. tranny but "in" with the boys - best paddle away and forget it.
Some of us are inherenlty more territorial than others.
I had a case of terrets in the water on monday. p.s. I want my peak back. Anyway Moraga is firing. I paddle out with one friend - cpl. other folks out. Then I see the guys from SC paddling straight out - right to me - bee lining it right directly for me. So, I point
down the beach - (south) and I say, "... paddle up the beach - invaders." Thing is I know these three guys; they are from Santa Cruz. You should be able to tell by the style: aggresive, flashy, hair and arms flying - lots of hooting. I could not help myself. I got about 5 super hollow lefts and a tube on my longboard, but the whole time I'm fighting and yelling and the three of them are trying to deal with a very bad scene, very bad . I felt stupid about how I was acting, but I also felt like these guys deserve what they dish out when we surf down at The Lane or Pleasures.
Dave Balke say's to me the other day, " Bad Vibe, you're too dark for S.F." I wanted to immediatley say," Dave, you're TOO WHITE for California."
I am a member and activist with the Native American/Hispanic caucus for this election and I will not tolerate
any form of shit hurled at DARK SKINNED people. The goal is to reverse the WHITE agenda in America.
Revisionist dramas will not be tolerated.
Advise hide the keys on the beach. Advise lock your valuables in the trunk or leave them at home. In Hawaii we would leave the car wide open - nothing of value - and 'shit, if you want to steal my car GREAT!!!! Please, I need the money'!
Posted by: BVB at March 10, 2004 10:48 AMMy car, a '91 Blue Jetta was broken into two weeks ago. Apperantly mine was the third car being violated - someone saw the guy punching a metal pierceing device up and under both driver and passenegr side handles. The police were on their way. The police ended up in a high speed chase - up La Playa, N on Grt Hwy, then the perpetrators hang a U turn over the median and head south at very high speeds on Grt Hwy. They had to call off the chase becasue it was too dangerous. Officer Herbert Chin, an Asian- American SFPD officer and I talked at length on La Playa - he told me the above story. A week earlier I was in my wife's new car - brand new Jetta - sorry -.
I parked at the stop sign at Lawton under the trees on the Northwest corner. I was gone maybe 15 minutes. When I came back there was guy - a really mean looking WHITE guy with Portugese blood or something is lounging under the tree - I say lounging but he was obviusly ready to make a move on the car. It was too obviuos. He scowled at me and I scowled back. He was super pissed to see me back. Another 5 and our new car would have been history. These guys work in teams and hide in the bushes watching surfers make all the right mistakes.
Be careful and watch out for the others.
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